Leaderboard

Brady is for a friend....not for me!!!!

My daughter is in a wedding next month, a girl she grew up with is getting married. My wife asked me to make one of these for her (him). I have made 7 or 8 of these in the last few years but I'm really digging the live edge's on this one. All of the others that I have made were clean cuts with no live edge. I just couldn't let myself cut this natural edge off. The bottom is Walnut and the top piece is made from Cherry. My wife cut the name's and design out on her Cricut. A couple coats of General's Arm-r-seal.

Here's what I found is the best fit. This is cut from paper so I'm not sure if it will work when cut from wood, but I may try it and share results. The white piece was flipped to fit. The center piece may also fit better if flipped.

Do you use a backer board, an extra “throw away” board under your workpiece, for the drill to land when you drill? That eliminates the splintering.

I do Enjoy looking at All your Crafts, but Especially ones like this one. Reason is I KIND OF DO REMEMBER WHAT YOU SAID ABOUT YOUR WAYS to color such projects. Always has Amazed me. Do you have a Tutorial kind of on your Steps? You have been mostly the reason that I have started using color in some of my crafts. Anyway this is just Another of your Amazing Crafts. Danny :+}

Must confess, this summer I stopped using blue tape as I found it a pain to remove from detailed fretwork. So now I just glue my pattern straight onto my wood and use White Spirit to remove. So much easier for me this way.

I frequently peruse clip art on the internet when creating scroll saw patterns. Recently, I was looking for four similar but different Christmas trees to attach to the doors of boxes that I made to hold ceramic trees. (see: Box for Ceramic Christmas Tree - Other Woodworks - Scroll Saw Village) I quickly found just what I was looking for, cut the trees out of 3mm thick Baltic Birch plywood, painted them with acrylic paint, and glued them to the doors. Here is a photo of the four trees:

It took all year so far to choose and make a project. Any shape can be a bowl. So I decided to make a boot bowl. More specifically a desert boot bowl. Bowl: Wood is from a free source of discarded wine aged oak slots. I had to glue up 3 slots to make a boot. The cactus is Baltic birch plywood with a really thinned down green acrylic paint. The white oak slots were 0.3 inches thick so I needed a few rings around to make a decent height of a bowl. White oak is a bit different than red oak in ways of grain structure. The glue up of oak slots was bad because not all slats are the same thickness. I don't have a planer so I attempted with palm sander. Lot of work. Hard to get a straight edge without a table saw. Anyway not having a perfectly flat wood to start with causes issues when gluing the rings together. This bowl will NOT hold liquid. I had to use baking soda mixed with saw dust any instant glue to fill in big gaps. The cactus had some really sharp turns. I had to go very slow around the tight turns since I was using stack cut inlay technique the thickness was 0.55 inches. With really tight turns I decided to use Pegas #1 mgt. Some of my learnings from this site was to make super high tension on blades and go slow. General Finishes finish "Armor R Seal" was used. I still have 2 more coats to make it shinier. Bottle stoppers: Niles Bottle stoppers web site has a gallery of customer art work. So I noticed that some of the turned pieces look like bombs and missiles. Of course you get other ideas in the middle of a project. So I came up with a play on words "Lets Get Bombed" and used that idea on 2 bottle stoppers. There was no "bombers" on her gallery. Since these stoppers are used for alcohol consumption. I had to play with words "How can you get bombed without a bomber" ? So I had to make a B2 bottle stopper. Oh your doing shots !!!! Then the A10 is the best. Ok someone else can make the AC130 gunship. Actually this would be a great theme for military bars. B2- wood black walnut. Armor R Seal for final finish. Since this was a quick 1 day project. I only did a silhoette. I needed thickness to mount the bottle stopper. Since you getting higher I wanted to point up. So thickness on bottom does not match the actual thin wind trailing edge. A10- Red Oak shows some good grain that indicates wind around the wings. I should have made dowels for the engines. But this was a quick get it done project. Again thickness of the wood is needed for bottle stopper usage. I don't drink but I can always find someone that likes the stoppers. For once I already know what my next project is. It will take a long while to make. I only have weekends to play. And it will be something I have not done. I know there will be re-starts. My order of wood from "Cherokee woods" gets here tomorrow. I am getting excited. Me. Mark Eason

Been playing around with modifying existing patterns to make them into things that others are not doing.. seems everyone selling the puzzles so I make clocks, LOL Also shrink them down to make ornaments.. Did a larger wall clock design but I broke it trying to cut the hole for the insert, so might try redesigning it from thin stock and adding a backer for strength.

And then lightly sand the bottom of the project piece to remove any remaining splinters. Check the holes to make sure they are open enough to get the blade through. And wax your table so the work piece will slide freely. Some types of wood are more prone to splintering. As others have said, drill slower and let the drill bit cut the hole. Drill bits wear and get dull and you might need a new bit.

This paper-cut pattern I found on-line caught my eye. The pattern itself did not need much work to make it scrollable although I made a lot of edits as I was cutting due the line work being very close together and I needed stronger bridges in many places. I have no plans to incorporate the edits into my reworked pattern. I sized it to fit a 5/32” x 15” x 10” Solid Core Maple Panel which was affixed to a Hand Painted ¼” x 17” x 12” BB Ply Backer. The actual pattern contained a lot of Vein like cuts that formed the images, but they did not open well to the backer, even though I used a very large Pegas #1 Spiral blade. As a result, I found it necessary to embellish the images by also coloring the cut panel abstractly. Other areas were cut using Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. As always, the assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a 1 3/4” wide Poplar Frame finished with Black Lacquer. I’m liking the very clean uniform black high gloss finish I obtain with the Rust-Oleum spray can Black Lacquer. I’m in a learning curve as the application is more difficult than paint or a Stain/Poly to get a nice uniform finish without runs or blemishes. There is one annoying problem with the Black Lacquer finish. It is hard to photograph because of glare reflections. This was the third project that I was doing simutaneously with Splat Cat and Trees of Green. The painting process was time consuming. Comments and Critique welcome.

Roberta nailed it. Also slow your drilling speed down. No, not the speed the drill turns but how fast you drill. Many people tend to push the bit through instead of allowing the drill to drill.

same here

Seldom us tape either, try Pegas Modified blade , less burning

Great work. Marg

Odd question but would there be any benefit putting clear packing tape UNDER the pattern? (well, under your wood, the part that contacts and "slides" on your scroll table)? Simply asking because I'm trying to figure out how to avoid the "splintering" effect mostly of the starter holes I drill. I am using a brad drill bit. Any advice is appreciated

Thank you sir,, Another similarity between this live edge and marriage.... they are both rough! LOL

Thanks, my best one yet and I don't even get paid for this one! LOL

I'm with Brenda on this one - to me this is much simple - I do not use spirals But I will say, that when the bevel cuts are done right, it does look awesome as seen above Fab4

I think this might be what you are talking about.

Way past my skill level !! I'll just use the shadow effect text, for someone as hamfisted as me it's an easier alternative.

Well, I think I figured it out. Yes, you can take the pieces from the pentagon and arrange them in the star. One piece from the star will need to be flipped over to finish the octagon. I printed the star and octagon and cut them out. Now I think I will make one. Thanks for all of your thoughts and inputs. And thanks Jim for the pattern. It's pretty cool. I'll post a photo of the paper cutout, but first I'll let you guys try it.

If you're talking about the blade being off center from the hole in the table, you can loosen the screws on the table ( under side of table ) to the saw and center the blade in the hole and re-tighten the screws.. I had to do this with a couple saws I bought over the years..

First thing is to check and make sure the blade and table are square. Just because the indicator is at zero doesn't mean everything is right. My DW788 was about 1.5 degrees off out of the box.

Neat cut . Roly

Great work Dick. I actually still have my first scrollsaw. It gets very little use now. I bought it new from Sears when electricity came to the farm in 1953!

It will in most cases, if you don't get in a big hurry, let the MS soak through the paper. One down side to this method, well some have mentioned it as a down side, after removing the pattern and the residue from the wood, you then have to wait for the MS to dry before you can do anymore with the piece. That may take an hour or so depending on how soaked you got it.

@flarud I just wipe Mineral Spirits on the pattern. wait a few seconds and lift the pattern off. Then I wipe the wood off with more MS to get any remaining residue. Try Mineral Spirits once instead of heat and goof off. See if it works better for you.

A selection from my toy making days. I used to see yellow, my hair would be yellow, my clothes everything was yellow when I made the ducks. Besides the ull alongs like in the photo I used to make flappers that had a handle that you'd push and their feet, made out of vinyl would flap on the ground. I'd do dozens at a time as I just couldn't keep up with them. From memory they sold for about $20 each. All the googly eyes are recessed and superglued in place

I'll jump in. This project is a grasshopper pull toy I made several years ago. It was a big hit with the kids that got it. Primarily, it was a bandsaw - drill press project. The wheels cut with a hole saw. The axles, 1/4" dowel stock. The joints for the legs, eyes and ends of the antennas were all from a craft store. The antennas themselves were electrical wire left at the garage when we purchased the house 32 years ago. The concept was from a woodworker on another site. I'm sure there will be some great items from the intarsia, segmentation folks.