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My daughter saw this pattern and really wanted it so I cut it out for her and she took it home with a smile on her face. A very quick and easy cut too. Dick heppnerguy

Made this to hang in the office at my job. I work in a milk processing plant. LOL Peeking Cow

I had been wanting to try an airplane so I found this pattern. Came out pretty good for the first one. Does anyone have a source for military roundel decals? I found some on E-bay but all are shipped from China. It'd be nice to find something a little closer to home.

Brady is for a friend....not for me!!!!

Samwise Gamgee and Frodo Baggins. One of my favorite pieces so far. I love the Lord Of The Rings movies and I think this quote pretty well sums up the moral of the movies. Not a bad quote to live by. The symbol under the quote is a symbol J R R Tolkien made up. It is made up of his 4 initials. The cutting is 9" X 11"-1/2" red oak with some mystery pallet wood I glued together and planed for the backer. I nearly wrecked it a few times including a piece that broke off, that I was able to glue back. And worst of all, I put it in my chair while I was working on the backer, and sat on it. Can't believe it survived. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6C8SX0mWP0

Yes, Flying Dutchman is Niqua. I used them for years, but now I am a Pegas dealer, so I use Pegas blades.

I frequently peruse clip art on the internet when creating scroll saw patterns. Recently, I was looking for four similar but different Christmas trees to attach to the doors of boxes that I made to hold ceramic trees. (see: Box for Ceramic Christmas Tree - Other Woodworks - Scroll Saw Village) I quickly found just what I was looking for, cut the trees out of 3mm thick Baltic Birch plywood, painted them with acrylic paint, and glued them to the doors. Here is a photo of the four trees:

I always have used Niqua blades since I started scrolling in 1995. Niqua also make the Flying Dutchman blades, Mike used that as his trademark when he imported them for the American Market.

get printable clear sticky sheets and make your own sticker with your printer.

My daughter is in a wedding next month, a girl she grew up with is getting married. My wife asked me to make one of these for her (him). I have made 7 or 8 of these in the last few years but I'm really digging the live edge's on this one. All of the others that I have made were clean cuts with no live edge. I just couldn't let myself cut this natural edge off. The bottom is Walnut and the top piece is made from Cherry. My wife cut the name's and design out on her Cricut. A couple coats of General's Arm-r-seal.

It took all year so far to choose and make a project. Any shape can be a bowl. So I decided to make a boot bowl. More specifically a desert boot bowl. Bowl: Wood is from a free source of discarded wine aged oak slots. I had to glue up 3 slots to make a boot. The cactus is Baltic birch plywood with a really thinned down green acrylic paint. The white oak slots were 0.3 inches thick so I needed a few rings around to make a decent height of a bowl. White oak is a bit different than red oak in ways of grain structure. The glue up of oak slots was bad because not all slats are the same thickness. I don't have a planer so I attempted with palm sander. Lot of work. Hard to get a straight edge without a table saw. Anyway not having a perfectly flat wood to start with causes issues when gluing the rings together. This bowl will NOT hold liquid. I had to use baking soda mixed with saw dust any instant glue to fill in big gaps. The cactus had some really sharp turns. I had to go very slow around the tight turns since I was using stack cut inlay technique the thickness was 0.55 inches. With really tight turns I decided to use Pegas #1 mgt. Some of my learnings from this site was to make super high tension on blades and go slow. General Finishes finish "Armor R Seal" was used. I still have 2 more coats to make it shinier. Bottle stoppers: Niles Bottle stoppers web site has a gallery of customer art work. So I noticed that some of the turned pieces look like bombs and missiles. Of course you get other ideas in the middle of a project. So I came up with a play on words "Lets Get Bombed" and used that idea on 2 bottle stoppers. There was no "bombers" on her gallery. Since these stoppers are used for alcohol consumption. I had to play with words "How can you get bombed without a bomber" ? So I had to make a B2 bottle stopper. Oh your doing shots !!!! Then the A10 is the best. Ok someone else can make the AC130 gunship. Actually this would be a great theme for military bars. B2- wood black walnut. Armor R Seal for final finish. Since this was a quick 1 day project. I only did a silhoette. I needed thickness to mount the bottle stopper. Since you getting higher I wanted to point up. So thickness on bottom does not match the actual thin wind trailing edge. A10- Red Oak shows some good grain that indicates wind around the wings. I should have made dowels for the engines. But this was a quick get it done project. Again thickness of the wood is needed for bottle stopper usage. I don't drink but I can always find someone that likes the stoppers. For once I already know what my next project is. It will take a long while to make. I only have weekends to play. And it will be something I have not done. I know there will be re-starts. My order of wood from "Cherokee woods" gets here tomorrow. I am getting excited. Me. Mark Eason

I've had this made but unpainted sitting in my shop for months. There are several more in the series currently suffering the same fate.

I was wondering if any one has used or is using the Niqua scroll saw blades. I realize this is an objective topic, so any opinion you may have will be appreciated. Compare to any other blades? Thanks!

Stunning !!

Color does wonders - nice job.

I really love the epoxy! Great job!

The one with the Lavender backer is Spray Painted. The other is My attempt at Painting with a lil brush. So what u think? Danny :+}

I used to swear by the blue painters tape on my wood and under the pattern. Later I saw a person who glued the pattern directly on the wood. I tried it and liked it except for the glue residue left after using mineral spirits. I did find that a cloth dipped into the MS would quickly take off the residue. Then I discovered something more.... (one thing I was skeptical about}, only using a very light coat of spray glue on the pattern and not on the wood itself, and waiting for 3 minutes before applying the pattern directly on the wood. My thought was...the glue wood be too dry and the pattern would raise off the wood while I was cutting it, especially if it was a small holed fret piece. To my surprised it worked better than any method I had previously used. I also found on most of the patterns I was cutting, I was able to peel off the pattern quite easily without using any MS at all. This was a blessing because I also did not have any glue residue left behind like I did with the MS. Another good thing using this method was sometimes when I did use blue painters tape on BB ply it would sometimes lift some of the wood grain and the new method has never done that on me. It is extremely important that I always sand the wood smooth and make sure there is no sanding residue on the wood before I place the pattern on it. I even run the palm of my hand over the wood surface to make sure I see no sawdust on my hand and only then am I assured it is clean enough to place my pattern on it. heppnerguy

Hey Bob,, thank you very much!

Thanks for the compliment.

I have relief carved patterns that size, but never cut them on my scroll saw. I don't care for cutting with spiral blades, except when clearing out areas difficult to cut with a blade. I have made a few things where I combined both carving and scroll sawing, but these were small and less than 50 hours to complete. The cross below was cut from one piece of mahogany using my scroll saw and then the face of the leaves and vines carved and shaped with an air powered carver/repurposed dentist drill and 1/6" diameter bits. The finish is poly and Rub-N-Buff antique gold on the leaves. About 12 hours total to make. Family demand has required the building of many copies of this. Sixteen have been made since this first one. Charley

I'm with Brenda on this one - to me this is much simple - I do not use spirals But I will say, that when the bevel cuts are done right, it does look awesome as seen above Fab4

I think this might be what you are talking about.

Way past my skill level !! I'll just use the shadow effect text, for someone as hamfisted as me it's an easier alternative.

Wow is all I can say

I agree, just make your own. May look cool with different wood for the pieces.

That one would be very easy to photograph and trace over. Nothing but straight lines.

When cutting our native timbers such as Jarrah, Marri etc I always use clear tape on top of the pattern. I use practically the same method as @dgman Dan. When I first heard about doing this to reduce or even eliminate burning, I had my doubts, however I find I it does as advertised. I also have a magnifying lamp and and another on one side of the saw.

I agree on this Paul. I only use the clear tape on 3-D cuts to hold the cut pieces together and I also get dust under the tape and it can obscure the pattern lines. The thing I hate about using it is it gums up my saw table. I keep it well waxed but I still get adhesive build up around the hole in the table. I've learned to live with it and just use a plastic scraper to scrape it off every once in a while. I bought a red plastic scraper at Home Depot years ago for some reason and I found it really works well on the table of my saw.

Must confess, this summer I stopped using blue tape as I found it a pain to remove from detailed fretwork. So now I just glue my pattern straight onto my wood and use White Spirit to remove. So much easier for me this way.

I don't use patterns anymore.. I've cut these ornaments so many times now I just tape the stack together drill holes and cut it out, When i did use patterns.. I put the tape down first then the pattern.. On a few certain instances I've put tape on top.. but I hate cutting that way.. it seems like the sawdust builds in front of the line and covers it up.. the bellows isn't enough air to blow the sawdust off the line hen it gets trapped under the tape ahead of where I'm cutting..

What Ray said is the correct way. Cover your wood with packing tape or blue painters tape the apply your pattern with glue or whatever you use. I use clear shelf liner from Walmart with great results. .