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Got two Russ Beard patterns done, both were a lot of fun but each was over 400 cuts. The wolf one is done on a 3/4 inch oak TV tray. the 2 tigers are done on oak also but it is several strips I edge glued up for a cutting piece, it is about a 1/2 inch thick. Blades used were on the 3/4 piece #5 UR dutchman and for the 1/2 oak # 3 UR dutchman blades. All worked good for me. Had a small issue on the large 3/4 inch oak but Charlie Hand helped out and gave me a couple of tips that worked great. My thanks to Russ for both patterns I really am happy how they came out.

When I saw this pattern by Kenny Hopkins I knew it was a must cut. I am just starting to try to learn to make frames so I hope to have some good improvements with them as I go a long. I will try to make a frame for all my future cuts so some day they will hopefully be much better. I cut this one with Pegas #2 MG blades on 1/4 inch BB PLY. I am pretty satisfied with the end results. Dick heppnerguy

Sheila Landry Pattern Measures 12x16

A few cutting in the new shop. The Ice skate, Dream Catcher and Cupid are cut from 1/4 inch Furniture Grade Pine ( my new favorite) . I bought the pine at Johnson workshop and I really like it. It cuts easy and there is very little sanding. Has anyone else used this wood? Thoughts?

Another goblin. I saw a photo on google and decided to print it to make my pattern, here is the result. I painted it with watercolors so as not to lose the grain of the wood Thank you in advance for your comments, greetings to all!

I often hear folks talking about how many cuts they can get out of each blade. Of course we all have opinions concerning that. I bit too and tried to figure out approximately how many holes I could cut out of each blade. And then it hit my wee brain. To illustrate this better, let me ask, "How many pilot holes are in this project?"

I remember having this discussion on another site and forum. Everyone involved had a different answer or point of view. To sort of throw some extra things into the variables. Maple cuts different then pine or birch. Walnut and oak are also different just like working with cherry. Add to that the blade size and speed of blade and feed rate and most theories go out the door. I have found that with many variables we work with that I go by feel. When the bade don't feel like it is cutting easily or cleanly time to change it. When you try to keep track of everything like time on the blade and the variables sort of takes the fun out of scrolling. Just some thoughts for more consideration. For most it is a hobby.

I’m with Wayne, I don’t count holes or time cutting or any other variable. When the blade no longer cuts the way I want it, it’s time to change it.

I always thought about number of inches I am cutting. But the other factors are thickness. The biggest factor is how many really tight turns. If I go thru a tight turn I notice a significant dulling. So technique is important on tight turns. Like go slow. Motor speed and feed rate.

None - you can go in from the side!

Needed a break from cutting puzzles and with icing conditions outside decided to cut another Americana Series from Jim Blume. I cut #1 yesturday. I had cut #2 last week. First time using sprial blades. Thanks Jim Blume for great patterns. Going to do more of the series. I have #12 ready to start on. Now to make frames.

Hi Ray: You must like weird things, you posted 3 times on this one.............LOL Fab4

Save them and when you get famous for one of your scroll sawn art pieces the value of that wire might be outstandingly crazy.. don't forget to save the blades from that famous piece you made too.. they'll also be worth a lot.

Its been awhile since I have posted any of my works but just wanted to put this one on! This is a Jim Blume pattern and it has been a few years since I have cut any portrait style with just using spiral blades, fd 2/0, 3/0! The cutting is 11"x 14" using 1/8" bb mounted on 1/2" mdf. I cut 2 and they will be given to 2 different animal rescues. Erv

When I show something I've cut to others, the first question I usually get is "How long did it take you to make that?" People are often disappointed when I them I have no idea. I also have no idea how many blades I go through on a given project...unless & until I run out. I will admit that I sometimes wonder about blade life, but usually only with respect to comparing different blades or different brands. If I get 2 minutes or 20 minutes out of a blade, it's really irrelevant to me in the context of the project I'm working in. When the blade is dull, I change it. Doesn't matter what previous history may have indicated or what my expectations were. However, if I happen to switch to a different brand and notice an increase or decrease in relative cutting time, then that is something worth noting for future reference. But even then, blade life isn't necessarily the only factor I consider when deciding what blade to use. Some blades just work better for me in a given application. Blade life is one part of the equation, not the singular answer.

I'm not even sure how to touch this topic because of so many variables so I may have to reply several times when more thoughts come to mind, LOL First and for most, I probably could give my most accurate reply of most others because I install hour meters on my saws.. Not to keep track of time for a per project like many think I would for pricing my work as the saw "run time" is completely different than actual time to do a project. This is why I always laugh to myself when someone post they run their saw 40 hours a week by themselves. I spend about 40 a week in the shop but only put about 8 - 15 hours a week on the saw in a good week.. many weeks probably not even that much time. Anyway, back to the topic, one variable is saw set up.. I can cut nearly 30+ or - minutes ( saw run time ) on my Excalibur running saw full speed on one blade cutting most hardwoods I think.. you can cut that time nearly in half for stack cut plywood, the glues in ply really shorten blade life a lot. But go over to my Hawk BM-26 or 226 Ultra and you can also cut blade life quite a lot.. I think those long arms swinging that blade puts a lot more stress on the blade than those short rocker arm saws.. as my DeWalt blade life is basically same as the Excalibur. To be quite honest I've never really timed how long I can cut on a blade from either saws.. I have the timer more for saw maintenance than anything but I have learned an awful lot by having that hour meter on my saws.. Anyway, I gotta get back out to work.. but I think the most accurate way to record blade life is going to be from a set up like I have.. hour meter that comes on with the saw switch and off with the saw switch.. I'd be happy to record some findings if it would interest others.. I mostly use Pegas MFG #3 and 5 and cut mostly Poplar, Cherry, and BBply.. Mostly always cutting 1/2 - 3/4 material by stacking or ?

Are you weird or "wired" that way.

Your question demonstrates that the number of cuts (or entrance holes) is not a very good measure of the life expectancy of a blade. One entrance hole, as in your example, can entail several minutes of actual cutting time, while others may only be a few seconds. Most of us don't make the effort to record the actual cutting time between blade changes, so maybe the number of entry holes serves as a substitute point of reference. Frankly, there are so many variables that affect blade life, without some controlled testing, it's hard to make accurate and objective comparisons. Not sure where this discussion will go, but will be interested in the replies.

One

Very, very cute, Frank! Most people would probably identify this is a GNOME rather than a goblin. I like the grain showing through also! Thank for showing it to us and God Bless! Spirithorse

I have saved the wire. I don't save all of it, but I usually have a few pieces laying about. It occasionally has some craft applications. For example, one year I made some snowman decorations to give as Christmas gifts. One a couple of them, I fashioned a corn broom for the snow man to hold (the others held a snow shovel). I made the broom out of some short strands, cut from a full size corn broom, then attached to a dowel. I wrapped the strands with the fine wire to hold it in place and give it an authentic look. Ever since then, I have tried to save some of the wire, in case I find another use for it. Doesn't happen often, but occasionally it comes in very handy.

Nicely done. I did one of those a year or so ago. I think there are over 10 different fonts in that pattern. It was quite a challenge. Letters are one of the most difficult things to scroll well. Any variation from the pattern will show up like a sore thumb with most fonts. That pattern is no exception. Good Job!

Like the pattern and the amendment!!!

K.I.S.S.

Both pretty good durable saws too.

Looks like a Sakura or P.S. Wood machines saw.. I think in either case they run the same parts and can be purchased from P.S. Wood...

Except that the black ring was a part of the whole piece. One pilot hole where the black, red and white come together.

very nice work, excellent cutting

Bit of weirdness in all of us don't you think? I toss my blade wire

very nice job, love the colors

Very cute. You chose excellent colors. Great work Frank. Marg

I thought about painting the blue but sometimes paint seems to follow the grain, especially in BB so I opted out of that idea. I probably will cut another one before too much longer and perhaps I will give that a try. Dick heppnerguy

Both great. My favorite of the 2 though is the wolf!

The color really makes it pop. I would have probably gone overboard and tried to paint the blue for the flag and a gray for the pole. As far as the frame, I see nothing wrong with that one. Looks like you pretty well have it mastered already.

I don't know if you glued it but I would guess it could also be considered a puzzle. Turned out very cute, though. I'm with the others that the grain showing through is a plus!

I love Gnomes, Thanks for sharing Frank.

Great work Jim!

Cute!

Yeah, I'm weird. I thought by now you knew. Lol.

I use Olsen Precision Ground blades to cut out 3/4" toys because they outlast any other blade I have tried. I use Pegas and FD blades when doing my inlay though.

I know this is an old post, but was wondering if anyone as done marquetry and can post their projects, thx RJ

I have to totally agree. That is the one thing I have learned over the years I have been scrolling. Everyone has a some knowledge that we ourselves have not. If one is closed to others ideas, he will find themselves in a stuck position. I have learned most of the knowledge about scrolling I have today is because of posts others have made. Some I find do not work well for me or I just like what I am already doing so I do not change. However, that said, I try to keep my ears and mind open so I do not miss an opportunity to learn. Dick heppnerguy

I also love Jim Blume patterns and plan to cut some soon. You did a great job on both of these and congratulations on giving the spiral blades a go. So many either refuse to give them a shot or did not like what happened when they did and refuse to give them another try. Practice makes perfect. a little time and soon one will get the feel of of them. Dick heppnerguy

I watched a rifle maker (is there a term for that?) do some inlay on the stock. He used various types of fine wire to embellish the wood. I guess one could incorporate it in some work. Oh, I toss mine too. No hording in our house, except for wood and sawdust.

I'm jealous . . . but in a good way. Very nice and congrats.

They look great. Congratulations you got the hang of the spirals straight away, I still hate them. Marg

Yep. Need me a she shed! I wonder if it would stay cleaner than a he shed? Love it though. I'm sure you will enjoy your time there.

This paper-cut pattern I found on-line caught my eye. The pattern itself did not need much work to make it scrollable although I made a lot of edits as I was cutting due the line work being very close together and I needed stronger bridges in many places. I have no plans to incorporate the edits into my reworked pattern. I sized it to fit a 5/32” x 15” x 10” Solid Core Maple Panel which was affixed to a Hand Painted ¼” x 17” x 12” BB Ply Backer. The actual pattern contained a lot of Vein like cuts that formed the images, but they did not open well to the backer, even though I used a very large Pegas #1 Spiral blade. As a result, I found it necessary to embellish the images by also coloring the cut panel abstractly. Other areas were cut using Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. As always, the assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a 1 3/4” wide Poplar Frame finished with Black Lacquer. I’m liking the very clean uniform black high gloss finish I obtain with the Rust-Oleum spray can Black Lacquer. I’m in a learning curve as the application is more difficult than paint or a Stain/Poly to get a nice uniform finish without runs or blemishes. There is one annoying problem with the Black Lacquer finish. It is hard to photograph because of glare reflections. This was the third project that I was doing simutaneously with Splat Cat and Trees of Green. The painting process was time consuming. Comments and Critique welcome.

You hit another one out of the park! Amazing!