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Pattern by Worthington House 12x16

Following Kevins idea here are a few clocks completed today. Trying some other woods in the process. All the items shown are Poplar except tried one with Cypress.

I finally got this downloaded so I could post it. This pattern came from the pattern library here and the maker of the pattern in "Shady Lady". I showed it to my wife and she wanted me to cut it for one of our grandkids, so here it is. This is the second one of this frame I have made and I think by the next one, I should get it right, I hope. I cut this on 1/4 in BB Birch ply and made the frame from aspen and purple heart. I enjoyed cutting it and this one I am happy enough at the finished results. Dick heppnerguy

Just finished the cuts of this cardinal, pretty easy to cut and I liked the end result

Here is a mod to the JGR Angel Bear - The Angel with a Heart of Love

After reading this thread I have determined that math is necessary/unnecessary when doing scrollsaw work? So, I'll just start counting when I begin a project and when I get to forty eleven, I'll quit counting and simply enjoy the rest of the day. Just kidding of course. I know folks who keep journals for the purposes of knowing how many holes they cut, and how much time they spent on a project, and all of that is fine if that is what winds your clock. People do ask and it's nice not to have to guess or speculate I suppose. I do hear of folks who have hour meters on their saws, and that is a good idea so as to know when to do maintenance and such. I usually wait until things act up or break and then fix them. I got over 20 years out of a DW788 Type 1 using this method, so I guess it works. Twice a year disassembly, cleaning and oiling seemed to work out well. My wife and I have a little different take on it. When we have both our saws running, the challenge is who gets the biggest pile of dust at our feet at the end of a given day. (Seriously though, we have some good dust collection systems, so we do collect about 90% of the fine dust.) NO!, I didn't do the math there. I just used the guesstimate method. Like I said, whatever winds your clock. And as long as you enjoy the time you spend, counting or sawing, it's all good.

It doesn’t sound powerful. I have used it in 1/2” plywood without problems. Just drilled through 3/4 pine. I use it for all my fretwork drilling. Angled drilling, drilling into the top of compound cut ornaments, etc, I use different dremels.

For your drill press spring, when they break, it's usually at the right angle bend at the end. I fixed an old drill press spring by heating just the tip of the remaining spring to red and then let it cool slowly. This removes the spring tension and makes this area soft and bendable, so it can be shaped and bent. I then just made the end back into the needed shape and put it back into the drill press. It was working fine many years later when I gave the drill press away. Charley

I haven’t posted any work in a bit and thought I would share this. Was asked to make this and used Wenge. Hope you enjoy seeing it.

I have 4 dremel one is ;on the plunge router 2 are variable speed and 2 are single speed I have never used it on anything thicker than 3 1/4 baltic ply and it works real well I oly use it when my 10 in. drill press wont reach eht holes especially on fret work. I have it set right by the saw ddthis works for me. IKE

I seen where someone mounted this upside down overhead of a workbench.. then it wasn't awkward to try to hold it etc.. and infinite throat capacity..

The thing I don't like about the Seyco is if the motor goes bad it appears to me you through it out and buy another one.. I'm just worried at my level of scrolling and primarily drilling through thicker hardwood I might be over working that little thing... The dremel I have is not a actual dremel it's a WEN knock off that was really cheap.. Maybe why it's so under powered? I mean it does do the job but like I said.. You got to run the speed up pretty high to get the torque to drill through 3/4" hardwood.. then it smoking / burning through rather than drilling. LOL The dremel / WEN motor has held up good for me but the plastic plunge part has gotten really sloppy and it got to a point where it's quite difficult to drill straight holes.. so i no longer use it other than on super large projects that my drill press can't get to the center. I may try a higher end dremel.. If it works with more torque then I'll spurge and buy a "quality metal" plunge base.. Not cheap but these things you could run over with the car and have it still be more accurate than the plastic garbage.. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base/

I've got the 4300 Dremel with plunge router attachment and it seems to work for me. It has plenty of power although I'm usually only drilling through one or two layers of 1/4 material. The chuck on my drill press wouldn't clamp down small enough to hold the smaller bits I needed. For a while I would wrap a small wire around the smaller bits so the chuck would clamp and hold. If you do this, you almost always have to re-wrap the bit with wire each time otherwise it will not clamp straight and tighten off-center. Anyway, I got the Dremel plunge router attachment and it has worked well for me. You do have to press down on the handles evenly as Kevin said. I haven't tried more than 2 layers of 1/4 inch material. Some of the holes I've drilled didn't require more than starting the saw with the blade inserted through the pilot hole just to knock off some of the edges to make the cut (super small holes). I've been working on some of Jim Blume's patterns if that gives you any idea of the number of holes and their size. The Dremel plunge router was an alternative to the Seyco Scroller's Drill which I hope to own one day in the future. I'm thinking it will be more accurate when depressing the head to drill the hole. Maybe someone that has the Seyco drill can comment on its operation.

I have only used small areas to epoxy. I use packing tape to seal the bottom. Really rubbing the tape against the wood.

I used the dremel plunge set up to drill for a very long time. It can wiggle. Resulting in problems when drilling for stack cutting. It also is figgity when changing the bit. Collet size, holding the tiny red button while turning the wrench and also holding the drill bit. I bought the Seyco Scrollers drill. It ain’t cheap. I am very happy with it. No regrets.

Gotta be careful if you use that Dremel set up with thick wood.. I have basically the same set up but since I'm almost always stack cutting or cutting 1/2 - 3/4 inch material the router has to be at a pretty good speed to have enough power.. then with the speed the drill bits burn up fast.. Not to mention that with some time the router base uprights will get worn and sloppy and if you're not careful going even pressure on each of the router handles you'll be drilling holes on an angle.. Good set up for the larger projects in thin stock.. like portrait cutting where the actual drill press won't reach the center though..

They just work better and are lighter weight. I have 2 Ex's and changed both to Pegas. Believe me, they make a difference. Are they worth $100 a set, no. But that's just the way of the world now. In Switzerland they're probably $10 a set.

We don't do too much concerning Valentine's Day, but my bride and I do work together in the shop and come up with some interesting ideas. Working together daily is better than simply noticing one another on holidays in my opinion. Here is an idea my wife had, and she wanted to use some exotics for it. I decided to use nothing but domestic scraps. By the way, scraps are nothing more than materials we haven't found a use for yet. These were glued up after we took them out of the kindling bin. Not the exotic hardwoods she wanted but since she is happy with the results, win win,

Did this some years ago.. along with several others but can't seem to remember where the pictures are.. maybe on my old laptop..

Found some Steve Good patterns I enjoyed making. I used a Hawk 226. And an EX30 for the candle holder

I made this for my wife. Pattern is by Sue Mey.

Frank, thanks. My biggest project so far was 240 (I think) I only counted this one because a local sawing friend of mine asked. I think I will leave those super huge projects to you guys for now. I'm lazy!!!

Its been a rough month and a half for our family, but I've managed to chisel out some sawdust time. Finally finished another mandala. 1" whiteboard, stained Minwax "Honey", used a couple of Pegas MG #3 blades. Good project to put on an audiobook or stream music and set the rest of yourself on autopilot. I started with the inner circle of smaller triangles, then worked my way outward, saving the inner spiral for last. I have some epoxy that I picked up over the holidays (Amazon), and am planning on giving it a try with this one. I'll post pics if it turns out.

I am having a really difficult time getting my photos from my phone to my computer. I had my son try today and he only got one of them to me. I think he got a little confused and I am not sure if I posted this one before or not but I am going to try and get him to try an send me the other piece of work I was trying to post for the past week. This one is on I got on this pattern library, I believe, but not completely sure of that. Anyway, this was the first attempt at trying to make this particular frame. It is along way from prefect but I will get onto making them if I keep trying, you know....practice...practice....practice. OOPS..Am I getting too old for my own good. I forgot to post the picture.. Got it now though Dick heppnerguy

Yes, that's the one. He did buy the plunge base but I remember that he changed out the springs. I don't recall him spending that much though. I don't think his had the light or blower port either. Looks like they've added a couple of things and bumped the price. Very well made though.

Yeah that's the dremel attachment thing I linked above that Les used.. though I think he bought the cheaper fixed base router base instead of the plunge router one that I linked to above.. I bookmarked that topic because I like that metal plunge base.. Maybe should buy it incase they quite making them.. Though I'm sure I could make one fairly easy as well.. Time isn't on my side for puttering around like that though at least at the moment..

That was an idea that Frank came up with. It seems to make sense. Also, regarding the plunge base, some time back this same discussion was going on and Rockytime talked about a high-end router base meant for guitar makers. Price at around $100 it was out of the realm of most of us but he bought one, made a couple of modifications to it and loved it. Very accurate and no slop. Made to last forever. I sure miss him.

… this puzzle ended up being the most difficult one I’ve cut to date. Between the picture (with a lot of solid color background) and the diagonal figure-8 cut it proved to be challenging. The first "test assembler" that tried it gave up on it, and the second one took 30 hours to finish it . Guess I’d better scale it back for the rest of the calendar.

I tried bending it, but it looked like it snapped off a little ways away from where it attached to the center post. I may give that another go, I probably didn't heat it up enough at the time.

some one mentioned the 3 jaw chuck for the Dremel. I have one and I decided to try it in the plung router. I had to take it off the dremel so it would work I did this and mounted it in the router and It wouldn't close ddd on a drillof any size. This is an older plung router and all blut I don't thik they changed it they stilllook the same. Buyer be ware.\IKE

Looks good, Dick, especially the nice frame.

Cool pattern. I have seen this one somewhere and always liked it but keep forgetting to give it a try. Nice one to hang on the front room wall. Dick heppnerguy

I forgot to post the photo. I think your connection with phone and computer and mine is the same thing. Thanks I will try to see if I can figure out how to unpair and remove my phone from the computer and get my phone to re-connect to my computer.. Not sure how to do that but I think you nailed my problem. Sure wish I had a 10 year old living by me to show me how to do that. Dick heppnerguy

I have a Dremel mounted in the drill press stand. I use it for most entry hole drilling where a very small numbered bit is required. Lucky for me, my full size drill press chuck will handle those small bits, but it's convenient to have the Dremel right next to me, when I'm sawing. Now the Dremel stand is limited in its depth between the bit and the post, but there is a way to work around that. It's a little awkward, but it does work. Rotate the Dremel 180 degrees, so that the base is directly behind the drill, instead of underneath it. This allows you to drill anyplace on the blank, without being limited by the distance between the bit and the post. The awkward part is that you need to hold onto the thing to keep it from tipping over. One could put some weight on the base to help balance it, but just be aware that it may be a little clumsy to operate, at least until you get the hang of it. I've done it a few times and it really isn't hard, just takes a little coordination. I'm not saying this is better than the Seyco or even the Dremel plunge router base, but if you already have a drill press stand, it is an alternative to buying something else.

Just thinkin' out loud, but smoke...heat....friction.....plastic doesn't, traditionally, play well with these things. Wonder if the heat from the drilling has softened or loosened the plastic up a bit? I knwo when drilling metal or plexiglass, you need to keep the site lubricated to help with heat buildup. Would a drop of BLO or something work in your case, or would that muck up the pattern too much?

That is lovely. Excellent work. Marg

I bought them for my EX-21 too and I love them

Beautiful work!

Just curious how does it do for power in thicker stock? I've been eyeing that seyco drill for a few years and have a couple pennies saved up for a new toy, LOL..

I believe this is a Steve Good pattern I made in 2020. The first one, I glued the words on backwards. If you look at in the mirror, you can read the words.

A beautiful box and wonderful idea.

Been working some sighs for Craft show coming up in March

My wife needed a book rack for her large cookbooks. I made this one using two scrolled wooden charger plates on the ends of a large oak bookcase. Worked fine! She loves it!

Very special box and is that wooden hinges as well,neat. Roly

This the season for gnomes. The Love You gnome is Steve Good design at 75% and changed to Love you. Mushroom compound cut pattern by Sue Mey. The other gnomes are modifications of Gnomes by Gayle at Scroller village

I made this for my wife a few years ago. She is a sci fi nut. Especially likes Star trek and Stargate., Radiata Pine, Tasmanian Oak bands and globe, Jarrah symbols

A couple of recent cuts. The first is from the last issue of SSWW magazine, we're dog people (Great Danes, so we don't have to bend over nearly as much, but its the sentiment that counts). Cut it out of a small bamboo cutting board that was being thrown out at work. Second is the "mechanical heart" pattern from Steve Good. Gears spin. I've cut the small (pendant-sized) pattern and the larger pattern, then blew up that pattern to 150% and cut it as well. Third is a little jewelry box I did back in 2020. Another Steve Good pattern, I think. The rose was one of the toppers he had in the pattern, cut that for my wife. The dragon is for my daughter.

Something quick I made for my Grandson to give to his "girlfriend" 1/2" pine with 1/4" top and bottom Fab4

Great job, Tim. Looks like some of those bridges were mighty think creating a lot of tricky cuts.

Very nice, well cut. Ah, come on. only 185 Holes? Talk to us when you you do a piece with 600 holes and the cut outs are not much bigger than the drill holes.