Jump to content
🎄 🎄 🎄 2024 Custom Ornament Business Kit - Now Available - SALE 50% Off Through Dec. 2nd ×
Ornaments For Charity eBook - Designers Wanted! ​​​​​​​🙏 ×

Leaderboard

  1. scrollerpete

    scrollerpete

    SSV Silver Patron


    • Points

      18

    • Posts

      2,134


  2. heppnerguy

    heppnerguy

    SSV Patron


    • Points

      13

    • Posts

      9,831


  3. Charlie E

    Charlie E

    SSV Patron


    • Points

      11

    • Posts

      3,367


  4. ChelCass

    ChelCass

    SSV Silver Patron


    • Points

      9

    • Posts

      2,865


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/23/2022 in all areas

  1. heppnerguy

    Super Bowl Plaque

    My 56 year old son has been a Rams football fan since he was in grade school. I, personally am not interested much in sports, it takes away my shop time. Since this was the year that the Rams were playing for another Super Bowl championship, I thought I would make him a winner plaque for his sports room. He told me about the new rams logo and he, personally, liked it, I thought I would make and effort to incorporate it in his plaque. This is the results of my effort at designing and making this plaque for him. I did not make this frame, as I just did not have the time to make one, so I used one that I purchased at a garage sale a while back Dick heppnerguy
    9 points
  2. Made these for my neighbours here in Florida
    9 points
  3. scrollerpete

    Miniature deer

    I think this is the smallest that I can cut
    8 points
  4. Jaguarguy

    Freaky Fords

    I started working on these in the last couple of weeks. I used a combination of scroll saw and Band saw. My Delta wasn't up to cutting these chunks of wood for the body - Had to use the band saw there. I used the scroll saw on the fenders. The truck was the first one I did. It has an ash body and purple heart fenders finished with 4 coats of Formby's tung oil. The convertible is black walnut with cumaru fenders and finished the same as the truck. I have the next 3 cut out just waiting on sanding and assembly. Two black walnut and I believe a red cedar. Here's the pics - Thanks for looking!
    6 points
  5. MTCowpoke22

    Bandida!

    It's been a long time since I've posted. Hard to get much time in the shop with a full time job and two little ones in the house. But I was able to get this pattern by Javenski completed here recently. Definitely enjoyed getting back to the saw!!!
    6 points
  6. Nickel Falls

    Couple Indians

    Both are H. Botas patterns
    6 points
  7. Charlie E

    Simple bird

    Very simple, one hole, cut. With the right wood, sometimes that's enough. I'd describe it by saying, "Nature made a piece of art, and I put a bird on a stick on it."
    5 points
  8. Jim Blume

    Easter 2022

    Just a reminder. Easter this year is on April 17, so if you are wanting to make some special gifts for the season, it might be time to begin thinking about getting something on the saw. While there are many patterns available here in the Village, here are a few patterns you might like. I will be doing these again this season in stacks to give to friends and family. But as I look at them, I had better get busy. Be well all and God Bless.
    5 points
  9. My new pattern and project. "Cutest key hanger" - I hear when someone see it for the first time, it has kinetic mechanism, when you hang keys - cat (dog) appears from the box. Project size 2 x 2 x 4 inches. Watch the video, it shows how it works and full assembling. Video of assembling Key Hanger Key Hanger pattern
    3 points
  10. rdatelle

    New pegas 21

    Hi everyone. Received my new Pegas 21 from Denny. Very fast service. Got in a few days. Finished putting every together. I can’t believe how quite this saw is.
    3 points
  11. I made a video on using that a few years back. I don't use it all of the time, but it sure works great!
    3 points
  12. Travis

    SSV Is Back Online!

    I woke up this AM with a pleasant surprise. SSV was back online! SSV server crashed on Friday, I think. I put in a support ticket Saturday morning. Unfortunately, it was slow to resolve. I kept checking back and they assured me that I was in queue. The longer it went, the more stressed I was. My fear was that it was going to be more to it than a simple fix. But in the end, the support team came through. I'm glad, too, since it was something that I would have never figured out on my own. I guess the moral of the story here is, "Don't have your website break on a 3 day weekend." Anyway, welcome back! We missed you.
    2 points
  13. I bought a brand new one back in 2007.. had it just long enough to plug it in and turn it on. Vibrated so bad and was noisy.. variable speed wouldn't work so I returned it, came home and ordered a refurbished Dremel 1800 with the sander on the side.. The Dremel was a pile of junk.. I probably should have exchanged the Craftsman for a different one and gave it another chance..
    2 points
  14. I got a roll of it once to try and had a heck of s time getting it off the roll. Ended up throwing it away. Maybe I should try it again.
    2 points
  15. Charlie E

    Bandida!

    Great job! If I had to be robbed, I'd pick her to do it.
    2 points
  16. wombatie

    SSV Is Back Online!

    Oh I missed my family. So glad all is well again and we are back together. Marg
    2 points
  17. dgman

    Miniature deer

    Why not?
    2 points
  18. preprius

    Bandida!

    Just sayin, a lever action and a black hat. I see trouble.
    2 points
  19. Hi Paul. Love that box. I have a two and three year old granddaughters and they love boxes. Is there anyway I can get that pattern. Thanks, Ralph!
    2 points
  20. Sycamore67

    Miniature deer

    Why??? It is a challenge.
    1 point
  21. Where are you located? There are tons of used saws in my area and I'd be happy to search out one for you. Send me the info on your saw so I can be sure it's the exact same saw.
    1 point
  22. don watson

    SSV Is Back Online!

    Thanks for having us back Travis. I was starting to have withdrawal symptoms.
    1 point
  23. scrollerpete

    Miniature deer

    I used mahogany
    1 point
  24. Charlie E

    Super Bowl Plaque

    Looks great! Fun to make stuff for family!
    1 point
  25. I just watched Travis's video and the one thing that caught my eye is his ScrollSaw. it's the exact same one I have. I use it all the time and have never had a problem with it. Would love to find another one just like it.
    1 point
  26. The people on the live YouTube channel said you must sand to a nice smooth surface and remove all the dust with air hose etc. for best results.. I do that anyway so I have less sanding of fragile projects when cutting is done so that's not an issue for me..
    1 point
  27. I tried it last year and was not happy with it, it pulled up in places while I gave up on it after the one attempt. But it sounds like others have had success with it. I might have to try it again.
    1 point
  28. This is how I justified, first o myself, then second (and more importantly) to my wife Margaret, the purchase of another scroll saw. Almost all my woodwork now involves scroll sawing and, often, I want to have two projects on the go at the same time. Having two saws will make this easier. For instance, I could have one set up with a spiral blade and the other with a conventional blade. The saw that I have decided upon is a Pegas 21 inch: That’s a bit smaller than my old Excalibur EX-30 saw. My current saw was made in nearby Pickering whereas the Pegas is made in far away Taiwan. At least, it’s not China. At its core, the Pegas uses the same engineering as the Excalibur. That engineering was invented by Thomas Summerville, a fellow Scarborough resident, in the early 1980s. My saw was made by his company Summerville Industries but, unfortunately the General company of Drummondville Quebec purchased Summerville in the early 2000s then General went out of business around 2015. Fortunately the design has been adopted by many companies and the Excalibur brand lives on in, at least, one of those companies. Now, after the brief history lesson, lets get back to Pegas. The company is located in Switzerland and they have contracted with the same company in Taiwan that makes the Excalibur and some of its clones. Without altering the basic sawing mechanism designed by Thomas Summerville, the designers of the Pegas have made several improvements. First of all, the arm will stay in the UP position when lifted: With the Excalibur, I need to jam a paint can onto the table towards the back of the arm to keep it in the raised position. I must do this every time that I feed the blade through a hole on the piece I am cutting. Most things that I cut have at least 100 holes and some have had about 1,000. That’s a lot of paint can insertion and removal. Another feature I like is the arms tilts when doing angle cuts: On my Excalibur, the table tilts. Once tilted, it is not easy to manage the piece of wood that one is pushing through the saw. Also the mechanism for tilting my table is primitive and not as accurate as I would like. The mechanism for tilting the arm on the Pegas looks to be quite elaborate and accurate. There are two other features of the Pegas that I have already managed to separately purchase and “cobble” onto my Excalibur. Those are the clamps which hold the blade in place and the hose that blows the sawdust away from the blade. I put those on my saw about two years ago and I have been impressed by both their quality and usefulness. The new blower that I installed on my saw does a good job of keeping sawdust away from the blade but there is nothing to keep the sawdust away from the floor and my lap. In the review photos I have seen, the Pegas can be hooked up to a shop vac and that combination does a very good job of collecting the dust. I contacted Rod Sheridan (who works part time for Felder/Hammer) and told him that I have never used my Hammer Shaper as a one should really use a shaper, only as a high priced router table and that I saw no likelihood that I would ever do so. He said that he would see if he can find a buyer for it. If I sell the shaper, it will cover away more than the cost of the new scroll-saw.
    1 point
  29. Don, I bought the saw from Bear Woods. I'll let you know when the saw arrives and I have it set up if you would like to drop in and "kick the tires".
    1 point
  30. dgman

    SSV Is Back Online!

    Now I can sleep tonight!
    1 point
  31. wombatie

    Miniature deer

    We all like challenges, that's why. Very cute. Marg
    1 point
  32. wombatie

    A few pieces done.

    Lovely work. You certainly nailed Fred. Marg
    1 point
  33. wombatie

    Simple bird

    That is really beautiful. Marg
    1 point
  34. rdatelle

    New pegas 21

    Believe it or not Ray, I have no vibration with the light mounted on the saw. I don’t use the magnifier yet. Maybe down the road.
    1 point
  35. meflick

    A few pieces done.

    Yabba-Dabba-Doo! Nice work.
    1 point
  36. If I want change the size of a pattern I Bought a Proportional Scale. It works out just fine. I have no connection with them The C-Thru Ruler Co. in Ct.
    1 point
  37. Denny Knappen

    Bandida!

    Very well done.
    1 point
  38. I have used it. After watching Travis! It works for quick, easy pieces. Sometimes quick and easy is the best solution.
    1 point
  39. ChelCass

    SSV Is Back Online!

    I belong to several of the FB scrollsaw groups and I am always referring people to this group. in fact I just Referred a guy in one of the groups today.
    1 point
  40. Jaguarguy

    Freaky Fords

    Barry - the plans are from ToymakingPlans.com. The cost was about $15 for the set of 5 plans. Dick - I haven't put them in the hands of little ones yet but they appear to be pretty sturdy! BTW - here's another vehicle I completed today. I call it the "Carrotmobile"! Put together and finished in less than 2 days. I used 1/2" plywood for the body and 1/4" for the rabbit. I plan on using them as Easter presents.
    1 point
  41. FrankEV

    Cat Statue

    Probably, just not sure how soon.
    1 point
  42. heppnerguy

    Simple bird

    good point you made about sometimes simple and left simple, turns out to be perfect. It must be the artist in you that understood this concept. I would have overlooked the entire idea and missed an opportunity to do something artistic. Nice piece. Dick heppnerguy
    1 point
  43. ChelCass

    Bandida!

    Very nice.
    1 point
  44. Charlie E

    Baby Dragon

    Great job! Very cute!
    1 point
  45. Frank, that is absolutely beautiful. The colors are stunning.
    1 point
  46. Another great job by you Frank and of course Dave.
    1 point
  47. Applying Patterns Transfer Method Drawing - One of the most direct ways of putting a pattern to your workpiece is simply draw your pattern onto the wood. This is a good method for simple patterns or to rough out a shape. However, it gets difficult for complex patterns and is limited by your drawing ability. Carbon Paper - Carbon paper is an easy method to transfer your pattern directly to the wood. Place your carbon paper between the pattern and the workpiece, and trace your pattern. The pressure from your pencil will transfer the carbon from the carbon paper to your workpiece. Graphite - If you don't have carbon paper, you can make your own. Flip over your pattern. With a soft pencil, lay down a thick layer of pencil. Once you have a nice thick layer, flip your pattern over and retrace your pattern onto the wood. The graphite from your pencil will transfer to your workpiece. Heat- This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Using a household iron will melt the toner on the paper and transfer it to the wood. Turn your iron up to the highest setting. Tape your pattern face down on the wood and iron the back of the pattern. Add firm pressure and go slowly. It will take time to transfer the wood, so check your work periodically. They also make special tools for using this transfer method. Acetone - This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. The acetone will soften the toner and transfer it to the wood. Soak a paper town and apply the acetone to the back of your pattern. When the paper turns translucent, use the back of a spoon to rub the pattern into the wood. Warning: Acetone is highly flammable and has noxious fumes. Use safely in a well-ventilated area and away from flame. Inkjet - This method requires an inkjet printer. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Take a sheet of labels and peel off all of the labels. What's left behind is a waxy surface. When you print our pattern, the ink from your inkjet printer will stay on the surface and will remain wet for quite a while. Carefully place your label sheet face down onto your wood and wipe the back of the pattern with a paper towel to transfer the wet ink to the wood. This method can also be used with butcher paper. Cut the butcher paper to fit your printer and print it onto the waxy surface. Using Substrates The most common way scrollers attach patterns to their workpiece is by using a substrate. A substrate is a material put directly onto the wood, then the pattern is glued to the substrate. This method protects the wood from the glue and often makes pattern removal easier. Depending on the substrate, it may also offer lubrication for the blade to minimize burn marks. Blue Painter's Tape (Substrate) - The most common substrate scrollers use is blue painter's tape. Painter's tape has low tack which makes pattern removal easy. The wax on the tape also acts as a lubricant for the blade. A good quality painter's tape is recommended as their cheap counterparts rip too easily and may leave behind a sticky residue. Contact Paper (Substrate) - Contact paper are used as shelf liners and can be found in the kitchen area of your favorite store. Contact paper comes in large rolls, which is wide enough to accommodate most projects. Simply roll out what you need and apply the contact paper to your workpiece. Glad Press'n Seal (Substrate) -Glad Press'n Seal has a surprisingly strong bond when attached to a workpiece. Tear off enough to fit your workpiece. With the back of a credit card, press the Press'n Seal into the wood and trim off the excess. Since Glad Press'n Seal does not use any glues, there is no chance of leaving behind a sticky residue. PVA Glue (Attach) - You can use a basic white glue to attach your pattern to the substrate. Simply spread the glue onto the back of the pattern, and place it onto the substrate. Smooth out any air bubbles and wait at least an hour for the glue to dry. Glue Stick (Attach) - If PVA glue is too messy, you can use a glue stick. Some glue sticks have a colorant added. When the glue is wet, the glue shows purple but will dry clear. This type of glue stick makes it easy to know where you've applied glue. The drying time is much quicker; 15-20 minutes or less. Rubber Cement (Attach) - Rubber cement will add a really strong bond. To use, apply a thin coat of rubber cement to the back of your pattern and a thin layer to the back of your substrate. Allow each to dry until it becomes tacky like a Post It Note. Then carefully apply the pattern to the substrate. When the two layers of rubber cement meet, it will create a permanent bond. Full Sheet Label (Attach) - Here is a super-easy way to add your pattern to your substrate. Simply print your pattern on a full sheet label. Peel off the back of the label and attach to your substrate. Full sheet labels can get costly, but what you lose in expense, you make up for in convenience. Spray Adhesive (Attach) - The most common way for scrollers to glue a pattern is by using a spray adhesive. There are 2 ways to do this. The main way is to spray the back of the pattern and wait for it to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note. Once dry, you attach it to the substrate. For a more permanent bond, spray both the back of the pattern and the substrate. Wait for each to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note, then carefully attach the pattern to the substrate. Once the two glue surfaces meet, it will create a permanent bond. Directly To The Wood The method that is growing in popularity is gluing the pattern directly to the wood. Using a spray adhesive, spray the back of the pattern (don't spray the wood). When the glue has dried so it's tacky like a Post It Note, apply the pattern to the workpiece. This method is growing in popularity because it requires no additional materials. Pattern removal is easy and will practically fall off with a little mineral spirits. (See Pattern Removal below.) Removing Patterns Peeling - This is the most obvious way of removing your pattern. This works especially well when using a substrate as the pattern and the substrate peel off together. If getting the edge of your fingernail under the pattern is difficult, use a Xacto blade to help it along. Be especially careful when removing patterns from your workpiece. Peeling may add additional stress to the already delicate fretwork and we don't want to break off any fragile pieces. Sanding - You can also sand the pattern off. This method works great when using an image transfer where the pattern is transferred directly to the wood. You can also sand away paper patterns. But be careful. The friction of the sandpaper may soften some of the glue and work the glue into the wood fibers. Just take it slow and don't spend too much time in any one place. Take extra care when sanding delicate fretwork. The action of the sander may add extra stress to the delicate fretwork. You may choose to use a less aggressive sander like a vibrating mouse sander or simply sand it by hand. You can use a sanding pad for additional support and keep it from sliding around while you work. Heat Gun - A heat gun will soften up the glue and make pattern removal much easier. A high-intensity heat gun used for stripping paint and wallpaper works best. You might be able to use a hairdryer. Just put it on its highest setting and work one section at a time. Mineral Spirits - A popular way of removing patterns is using Mineral Spirits. Mineral Spirits is a solvent, so it will soften and dissolve the glue. You can buy odorless mineral spirits, so it's great for indoor use. Just make sure you protect your work surface. Mineral spirits work especially well when you attach your pattern directly to the wood. Just wet the pattern. Once it turns translucent, the pattern practically falls off on its own. Just peel it away and you're good as new. Mineral spirits is also good for removing any sticky residue left behind from tape or glue. Just apply and wipe away. For easy application, add it to a spray bottle. That way it's ready to go whenever you are. Simply spray the back of the pattern and remove. ---------- So, what did I forget? Do you use a different technique I didn't cover here? Let us know below.
    1 point
  • Sign Up Today!

    Sign in to experience everything SSV has to offer:

    • Forums
    • User Galleries
    • Member Blogs
    • Pattern Library with 4,300+ Free Scroll Saw Patterns!
    • Scroll Saw resources and reviews.
    • Pattern & Supplier Directories
    • and More!

×
×
  • Create New...