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Something new Fun project to do.

Had to make my first minor repair on my Hegner and thought I'd share the problem in case any Hegner users haven't run into it yet. The tension lever started slipping out of the locked/back position occasionally and got worse over time. The issue was the nylon tension lever rollers had worn a flat spot in them. They are very cheap at Advanced Machinery, less than $2 a pair I think, so I ordered 4 sets along with the clips that hold them on. Back to normal now.

Hello everybody, Spring is almost here for a few days, it gave me an idea (I found it on web) I added something I like. see you soon Eric

This is from a painting by Terry Redlin, my favorite artist.

Thanks to “Beaver” who give me the plans for the case. Now I have to make two more for my other models.

Trivet #1 and Trivet #2 of a set of 8 designed by Sue Mey and finally finished. The Trivet #1 wood is 1/2" Walnut 8" square. The Trivet #2 wood is 1/2" Cherry 8" square. Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #3R MGT blades. After sanding, dipped in BLO, dried for a day, sanded again, dipped in BLO again, final sanding and then a light rubbing with paste wax. Comments welcome.

Spring is coming soon.

What I have done from the time I bought my Hegner is to blow the accumulated sawdust off the rollers and ramp regularly. I received a extra set of rollers and clips when I bought my saw in 2008 but haven't had to use them yet.

A dry lube might keep the sawdust from sticking to the oil and creating a gooey mess..

One of my older works - pattern from the very old book "scared mandalas" - birch plywood 1/6 inch, diameter appr. 9 inch. Approx. 800 entry holes - hope you enjoy!

One is 1/4” 9” X 11” MDF core cherry plywood in an Oak 14 X17” frame. The second is 1/8”, 8 x 11” Baltic birch plywood in a 14 X 17 frame I painted black.

After reading all the posts from those of you who swear by top feeding, I think I'll stick to what I've been doing for the last 7 years. Bottom feeder I am, I am.

Typical male......

Kris, when Ann Marie and I had our Gallery/Frame Shop, we carried Terry Redlins work and his work was probably the best seller in our shop. We were invited to one of his opening shows by his publisher and we met Terry personally, he was a very humble man. I'm sure he would have loved your version of the artwork, you did a great job on the design. Thanks for sharing. Rick

Stunning work. That is a whole lot of holes!

I cut Abbey Road again for a friend. The red oak and walnut worked well together for this one.

Great job. Did you stack cut these?

for doing that number I would invest in a spray gun. however I am no help at all in which one to get or how to do it since I don't have one yet.

Very well done. Color really adds interest.

I really like this and, in particular, I like the painting that you did.

Are we equating pistol shooting with pouring coffee? Might be relevant when pouring the wife her first cup in the morning.

I'm not a wood finishing expert so someone else will have to suggest what finish would best suit your needs.. I'll say that one that is easy to clean up ( spray equipment isn't fun to clean ) and one that the cleaner needed is cheap and readily available.. Also a finish that is quick drying.. If you're staining or dipping in BLO or similar then you'll need something compatible with that as well.. Lacquer doesn't usually go well with oil based stains ( I don't think ).. at least in the automotive world of finishes that would be a big no no.. If it were me and I was always going to be top coating over a oil base stain.. I'd go with the water based Polyurethane.. But I'm sure someone else will have a better opinion on that than I have. But being able to clean up with soap and water.. fast drying.. etc seems like that would fit the bill pretty well. I think Shellac dries pretty quick and cleans up easy with alcohol too.. probably works well for a top coat? I don't know.. Another thing to think about is the fumes being flammable.. as with a spray gun it's easier to put a lot more fumes into the air. Best of luck with whatever you choose.. hopefully someone can offer better advice on what to use.

interesting piece. Done a little different than most of the cuttings I see here. I always enjoy seeing something on the original side of things. Your colorization adds a lot of appeal to this project too Dick heppnerguy

Personally, i hate bending over and trying to see under the workpiece, however, if I'm working in a tight place, and have to drill holes that are barely bigger than the blade, it is easier to feed the blades up where I'm not fighting the cutting direction of the teeth. If I have the room for larger entry holes, I'll always top feed. And on the Hegner, the arm doesn't go up far enough to use the approach I use on my EX. I usually do the puzzle boxes and thicker stuff on the Hegner, so I'm not doing fretwork for sure.

Hi Kevin, I am stack cutting and minimizing wasted wood. even more so now that the wood is so expensive. Yes I have been rattle can spraying them for years. Have not been brave enough to try a spray gun. May have to upgrade. Whats a good laquer to try? I have raised my prices this year. The first time in many years. I pretty much do this for a hobby but still have to be able to pay for the hobby.

Does top feeding work differently at 45 deg with tilting table?

I have to wholeheartedly agree with Ray, bottom feeder also. I tried top feeding and just couldn’t get the hang of it. I ruined a whole lot of blades trying. But…. I swing a golf club right handed and shoot left handed playing hockey. Maybe that explains why I can’t top feed. Haha!

Instructions are for patterns? I thought that paper was to start the fire to burn the scraps.

With you on this one.

My wife got us a re-home Eclectus parrot last summer, and has been looking at different tree perches and table-top stands online. Those things are EXPENSIVE!!!! So she had showed me a small A-frame style stand, of course I said I could make one for a LOT cheaper. One trip to Lowes for a 1x12x6' piece of pine, a 3/4" dowel, and a set of paddle drillbits (my current set went up to 1/2", the two larger bits being sacrificed to the "you must lose something" house move several years back), a little bit of tinkering in Inkscape, and I think I have a passable stand. We also made one out of PVC pipe, wrapped the cross-piece in athletic tape for grip, and use it in the bathroom, but no scrolling was done on it. Stack cut the two sides so they're equal and the drill holes matched up. Scrolled the center portion, and then scrolled the outer edge. About an hour on the saw and drill press. Sanded down the ends of the dowels a tad bit, everything is pressure-fit together. Since parrots are known to nibble on their stands, this will remain raw wood. They are also very susceptible to fumes, we have to take her out of a room for a couple of hours when doing touchup painting on the walls, so staining would require a long drying time to make sure that nothing is off-gassing anymore. Rosie hopped over to it from my arm with only a little bit of coaxing (and a walnut bribe....spoiled rotten, she is), and seems to approve. She likes being near her people, so we bring her over (she's less than a year old, and previous owner had her wings clipped at some point so she's still learning how to fly....she's starting to figure out that its easier to land with her claws than just slamming belly-first into the perch and scrabbling for a foot hold. Next, steering!!!) whenever we're congregating in the kitchen.

A friend, furniture maker and source of nice scraps of wood, requested a small Christian cross. I did this one, using some of the wood he gave me. The wood is Acacia from his family ranch in central Texas. I resawed it to 1/4" thickness and is about 8" tall. The first picture shows the 3 parts separate and the second picture shows the 3 parts assembled. For those who are religious, it has the symbology of the holy trinity.

The grains in those look so complimentary. Very nice cutting.

Great idea @FrankEV! I gave it a try using acacia and red oak and here is the very preliminary result, still a good bit of sanding and finishing work to go.

great pattern, great cut

Awesome Kris!

Beautiful piece. The detail is amazing.

Wow, amazing work. Marg

Super job

That is incredible!

Outstanding!!!!!!!!

Beautiful!

Wonderful work! Pattern and cutting.

If memory serves me correct, you have cut a few of these "scenes". You do an awesome job on them... too many holes for me! LOL

Oh WOW

very nice

amazing job, it's beautiful

Fantastic work! How many cuts?

Great work!

More amazing service from Denny. I ordered more blades late last Friday - figured they would ship Monday and I would get them by this Thursday. Denny shipped them Saturday morning and they we in my mail delivery today (Monday). That's central Tennessee the eastern Wisconsin in two days. Thanks Denny!!! https://www.artcraftersonline.com

Pattern by Judy Peterson. Cut from 1” Hard Maple. The Base is 5/8” Mahogany. The pole is 3/16” brass rod topped with a maple ball. Used FD UR #3 blades.