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Found this pattern for papercutting and made is from birch plywood - hope you enjoy!

Trivet #1 and Trivet #2 of a set of 8 designed by Sue Mey and finally finished. The Trivet #1 wood is 1/2" Walnut 8" square. The Trivet #2 wood is 1/2" Cherry 8" square. Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #3R MGT blades. After sanding, dipped in BLO, dried for a day, sanded again, dipped in BLO again, final sanding and then a light rubbing with paste wax. Comments welcome.

Spring is coming soon.

I cut Abbey Road again for a friend. The red oak and walnut worked well together for this one.

My sister mentioned these last year, so whe Steve Good posted the pattern, I knew I had to make it for her. Will mail this to her this week. Wood, for the background is balck ash, from a friend. Figures are maple. Also from the same friend. Just a clearcoat finish. Done at 80% to save on size for shipping!! .

A big THANKS ago Don in Brooklin for the design of these wall plaques. Made them for a neighbor here in Florida, the Badgers a re a football team in Wisconsin. I cut 2 because Idid not like the big one

Here’s a parrot, pattern by Garnet Hall. Painting the pieces requires quite a bit more time to complete the project. After completing this, I prefer simply using different types of wood for color contrasts. Of course, given the colors in this project, it had to be painted.

H. Botas pattern

Hi, i just tried to scroll/sand some wood rings, does anyone else do it, any tips on making them better and any special finishing technique.?

Pattern from Sheila Landry maybe hard to tell but it is a Cardinal

I don’t want this to turn into a political post. I purchased a few sheets of Baltic Birch last week. This is from a lumber supplier in Dallas Tx. While there, I asked where Baltic Birch came from. I should have known that it came from Russia. They told me that when out of their present stock that they will not buy more from Russia but that they will get Vietnam birch instead. They said the quality of Vietnam birch is similar but that it does have some voids. Their business is cabinet makers where voids do not matter but it will for us I am sure that in the near future we will find our hobby wood in short supply

I understand that a small amount of Baltic Birch comes from Finland. There are, of course, many countries other that Russia and Finland on the Baltic, but I have not heard that any of the others manufacture this type of plywood. Canada certainly has vast regions of same type of Boreal Forrest where the Birch is obtained, but I have not found (and I have looked) any Canadian manufacturer of Birch Plywood. It's not just the lack of voids that appeals to me, the characteristics and quality of the Birch wood make it good for scrolling.

That is Decoart Snow Writer. Got at local Michael's. Recommended by a member. All my gnomes will get new beards.

Commissioned box from a good client. Maple and nogal.

Hanging ornaments from string will let them blow around when you hit them with the sprayed finish. They need to be secured such that they don't swing and spin while they are being sprayed. I built a contraption that I used for this purpose. I only get 3 on it at a time, but I only use it for 3 dimensional ornaments that are too hard to spray lying down flat. Essentially it's a cross bar, mounted to a piece of plywood. Have hooks along the top bar and in the base. Use bent paper clips and rubber bands I attach the ornaments at the top & bottom. They are held fairly securely, such that I can spray without them blowing all around. The elasticity of the rubber band makes it easy to hook and un-hook them. I put the whole contraption on a lazy susan platform, which I can then spin around to get all sides.

i have used some "Burch" plywood, not Baltic birch, from Washington state. Seems to be alright as I have made cabinets with it and no voids. Just FYI, JIM

While I know voids are a thing.. and everyone suggest BBply because there are no voids or very few.. I've scrolled a lot of plain old 1/4" good 1 and 2 sides of plywood over the last 20 years.. I have yet ran into any issues with the voids.. Not saying they aren't there.. and I can feel and see a big difference in quality of BB ply and strength too.. You bring up a good topic though and it is something to think about.. and has been mentioned.. they have struggled with the supply of it in the past few years and prices have skyrocketed.. Might be a time to stock up if you absolutely have to have this stuff.. I can see it getting pretty pricey.

Your supplier is right, Baltic Birch does come from a region of Russia known as Baltic. 2 or 3 years ago the workers and the machinery was having a tough time getting into the forest to harvest the trees due to very wet and snowy weather and I believe that was true last year! I don't use ply very often but I did order enough last year to last for a good while! Erv

awesome job

very nice job

Very well done....as a Beatles Fan I geht the "must have" Feeling!

Hi Charlie: I would be a fool not to comment on this one Looks great - Well done Fab4

Excellent job, Charlie. I agree that the red oak and walnut work well together.

Good stuff Barb.

WEll done, Barb! I also enjoyed that pattern very much and have two of them cut out. Steve's version shows the cave in brown but, I am contemplating doing a thin wash of gray with dry brush black to represent rock. I'll try to remember to take photos and upload it here. God Bless! Spirithorse

Very nice Barb, RJ

Beautiful piece, RJ

Something new Fun project to do.

Excellent project, Barb. I'm sure your sister will be pleased.

I used the 1 1/4" wheels.

you might want to look at filtration for the compressor,too. ya want to have clean, dry air running through a spray gun. you will benefit form a regulator at the gun,too. that keeps pressure consistent at the gun resulting in more gooder consistency of sprayed finish from the gun. spray guns are a science in themselves. some atomize great some dont. better to have a fine mist( better atomization) spray out than have a gun that sprays larger droplets. tip size plays a part,too. for the finishes you will be spraying, a 1.3 or 1.4 tip size is a good choice. one thing some people(me) have a tendency to do is buy a cheap gun to see if they like spraying. the problem with that is quite similar to buying a cheap scrollsaw and top of the line one- cheap guns can cause a person(me) to want to throw the gun in the trash and give up. my experience with spray guns started with auto painting. i started with a devilbiss startingline gun. its the bottom of the ladder in quality guns from devilbiss. could never get it to lay down finishes without orange peel and problems. moved up to a devilbiss finishline gun and saw much better results. i finally upgraded to a high quality gun( devilbiss copper tekna) i was in dreamland. spraying finishes for woodworking projects is a dream.

I've not had a problem. Just a tiny dot of oil is all it takes.

I suggest a gravity feed gun over any siphon feed gun.. a siphon feed needs quite a lot of air pressure for sucking up the paint.. this in turn makes you blow a lot of air into the shop which in turn can stir up a lot of settled fine dust.. which then can end up on your ornaments.. While you should be spraying in a nice clean and ventilated area anyway.. That all said.. with the higher pressure of the siphon gun trying to spray light weight ornaments.. you might be blowing them around too.. plus you get a ton of spray that is blown out into the air instead of onto your ornaments.. thus requiring more clear usage and wasting a lot of it in the air. Some gravity feed guns and HVLP guns can spray decent with as low as 8-10 psi.. siphon guns need usually a minimum of around 40psi.. Gravity feed guns can spray down to the last drop of clear in the cup.. siphon feed guns need enough to reach the siphon straw / tube to suck up the clear which is also a waste of material.. as sometimes that can be a substantial amount to reach the siphon tube if you're aiming the gun down making the clear in the cup go to one side of the cup.

What are these "instructions" of which you speak?

I'm a big fan of shellac. I spray it with a cheap HVLP gun. It doesn't take much to get set up, if you have an air compressor of sufficient capacity to handle the spray gun. A little practice on some scrap plywood or even cardboard and you should quickly be able to get the settings dialed in. Shellac is pretty forgiving. Spray in very light coats. It dries very fast, so you can apply multiple coats in short order. The solvent/thinner for shellac is denatured alcohol. Unlike oil based finishes and mineral spirits, alcohol will dissolve cured shellac. That makes clean up pretty easy. I have a couple spray guns that are devoted exclusively to spraying shellac. When I'm done, I run a little denatured alcohol through them and wipe them down. I usually don't tear them down and do a thorough cleaning every time. When I'm ready to spray again, I run a little DNA through the gun first, making sure I'm satisfied with the spray pattern & alr/liquid mix, then go to it. I buy Zinsser pre-mixed shellac by the gallon. Last time I bought it, it was about $50/gal. I don't know what it is these days. You can spray it straight from the can or dilute it a little with DNA. Shellac can be applied over stains & dyes. Clear shellac will impart a slight amber tint to the wood. If you get brave, you can buy shellac flakes in many different shades and mix your own. This could eliminate the staining step altogether. Shellac is a very versatile finish for projects that don't require a lot of protection, which is most things that scrollers make. I'm basically self taught, when it comes to spraying. I don't claim to be great at it, but if I don't get in a hurry, I can do a decent job.

I am a top feeder. Seems to get work done faster and less strain on my back from bending down to see. I try to get the blade into the hole and at perpendicular tp the clamp on both sides. After a while you will learn muscle memory and things just move along just like setting the bottom clamp with out looking. If you can see the hole in the table and can look through it to get to the opening it becomes much easier.

Thanks for the reminder. Been busy doing Easter projects and forgot all about St. Patrick's Day. Here are a couple of patterns that may be useful. Funny how there are so many variations as to what folks believe Leprechauns to be like. By the way, the second pattern is titled "Who ate my Lucky Charms?" Be well all.

Been a few since I've done any Celtic knotwork, but here's a couple from not too long ago.