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Pattern by Jim Blume with thanks, cut from sweet chestnut

Most of these projects have been cut over the last six or so weeks but the finishing and framing was on hold due to a non-scrolling project that had been occupying my time. Finally got a few days break and was able to do some finishing up. All patterns are conversions of various free images I found online. All cut panels are 5/32” Solid Core Maple, Birch or Walnut affixed to a ¼” BB Ply backer. Coloring was done by various techniques such as: Hand Painting with Artist Acrylic Paints, Painting with rattle can spray paints or Staining. Cutting was mostly completed with small Pegas Spiral blades. After assembly, all panels were protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frames are made from 1 ¾” wide Poplar finished with Stain and Polyurethane or Black Lacquer. Trees in the Night, 10” Diameter panel mounted on a 12” x12” Backer. Parrot Pair (*), 12” x 12” Leo, 11” x 14” Chrysanthemum Bouquet, 11” x 17”. You all know I welcome comments and critiques. (*) I have cut various Parrot Portraits, all of which have been sold, so I had to make another but different one, to replace the latest to be sold. Although I am very happy to sell my work, certain pieces are missed from the display more than others. This is the case with the various Parrots I have made.

Picked up some unique looking walnut scraps from a local cabinet maker, and had to play with it. The pictures don't do them justice, but it is some incredible looking wood. I still got more, so I might bore you with more pictures shortly.

Finished this S G pattern everyone I made sold done on Oak and Popular

A great pattern by Jim Blume (Thank you for sharing): Americana 12 5/32 birch plywood, blade Niqua fix 2.0 (25 tpi) - size appr. 11 x 8 inch - 878 entry holes. A very funny project - I hope you enjoy it also!

I created this Beveled inlay guidelines chart for myself. I would still do a test cut

In the progress of cutting another pattern by Jim Blume, '' Roaring Cat '' . Looks like this after about 20 hrs and 200 entry cuts . The mouth part is cut out except a few spots to keep it there till all the rest of the pattern is cut out, to protect the whiskers from being broken off, very delicate.

My heart goes out to the people of Ukraine. Because of that, I support Samaritan's Purse. They have a field hospital and smaller clinics inside Ukraine. In my mind, unsung heros. Last year I made an offer to support an orphanage in Haiti and raised $500. I would like to do the same for Samaritan's Purse. ArtCrafters Coupon Special for April. When checking out, use coupon code UKRAINE in the coupon code box for a 12.5% discount. I will personally match the discount as a donation to Samaritan's Purse. I hope this is not confusing. For each order I receive, you get a 12.5% discount and I donate 12.5% of the gross sale to Samaritan's Purse. Here is a link to Samaritan's Purse. Samaritan’s Purse International Disaster Relief (samaritanspurse.org)

I'm not sure if there's a table but you also should include blade thickness into the formula. I went back to high school geometry to determine thickness with some success. Grab some scraps of wood and do a few tests to determine the angle that works for your project.

I just cut a keyhole shape into the edge of a piece of timber the same thickness that I'm going to use and adjust a few times until it wedges where I want it to.

Now they are waiting for a background... Birch plywood 5/32 inch, size appr. 11 x 8 inch each, together appr. 1100 entry holes.

Hi all, Just getting started scrolling and found this site. I have completed a few projects-bowls,vases and I am working on my first intarsia. I think I bit of more than I can chew on the intarsia but it is slowly coming together. I have spent some time here and it is great to get all these tips. It might help to keep my mistake pile smaller! Here is a picture of my modest scroll station.

Is there a chart or spread sheet for angles relative to wood thickness for inlay work? I've seen a video of cutting circles with increased angles. Is that what I should do for each of the different usually used thicknesses? Thanks.

The other day, I decided to make up another one of those candy/nut baskets that I have made many of. I had an assortment of woods so I decided on the top and bottom of padauk, 3 layers of cherry and 4 layers of poplar. All good at that point, so I cut everything out. Yesterday I glued everything up and left it in clamps overnight. Today, I decided that I'd like to see what it was going to look like after oiling. I had heard a long time ago that a spray of alcohol and water would give a quick look at what the finished product would be like so I give it a few squirts and it definitely give me an idea of how it would look. Unfortunately, the padauk has run down into the top layer of poplar. Sad face here. Oh well, lesson learned and this one will be different than anything I've made so far. I think I'll give it another spray or two and also let it run from the bottom up into the next layer of poplar. It'll just have a look like a "tie-dyed" tee shirt. Dang!

Take your time when cutting inlays and make sure not to push sideways. These were 1/4 into 1/4 inch material. Olson 2/0 R 28 TPI

Beautiful as usual, Frank. I love the way you add your colors to the pieces.

Great work. I love the trees. So simple and calming.

I'm relieved to see others who are struggling with inlay, being new with scroll sawing I thought it was just me. Especially thick wood, it shur is pretty cool when you know the way to do it.

I mainly use two pieces of wood that are .4 thick. Using a #5 blade I am setting my saw at about a 1.6 degree angle. I would imagine that can vary with saw blade brand also. I have never had any luck inlaying thicker wood.

Thank you Frank

I often tell folks that patterns are only a guide and that once you decide to cut it and adapt or modify it to fit with your ideas, then you will open the door to your own special creativity. I absolutely love what you did with this. Amazing results.

Thanks John and, Dan.

great job

I have an upcoming craft show at an Indian reservation, so I found a few Gary Browning patterns to make. Crazy Horse, Chief Joseph, and Sitting Bull.

A man with patience and a steady hand. Good works!

She's really going the extra mile to help me. A little reward is in order!!!

And drove 3 blocks and heard a familiar sound sliding across the roof.my this project is for the doctors office.bummer I worked hard on this one.pictures tomorrow. VID_20211013_101911.mp4 VID_20211013_101917.mp4

Boy, you do some great cutting.

Great job. I love them all. Great cutting.

Looking good there buddy.

Glad to see you back to working. Sending your cookies out Monday.

Love walnut. Great cutting.

Your doping great on that. Looks really detailed.

Jim makes awesome patterns! Looks like you are getting along well.

That's good to know as I usually shoot a couple coats of spray shellac on these baskets. This time I guess I'll use poly. Thanks.

Good to hear that you are getting it worked out and will be able to save the project. You seem to have answered 2 questions, one about the glue - it is not waterproof, and the other about the padauk bleeding - due to alcohol. I wondered about the latter, did a search and found a Woodcraft article that confirms that the pigment in padauk is alcohol soluble. Woodsense: Spotlight Padauk (woodcraft.com). They recommend not finishing padauk with shellac because of the alcohol thing.

Insane sawer for sure lol. Getting there , at about 40 hrs in, guess I'II have to take my brother's suggestion of getting my head examined after finishing this one lol. The top part and top of head are all cut out, just taped in place until finished to protect some very delicate parts , just the bottom .Mostly just the grass on the bottom left to finish. Quite sure there are around 900-1,000 entry holes in this pattern.

Well, to update, I figured I had nothing to lose at this point so I filled a sink with cold water and set the basket in the water. I figured that if the padauk continued to bleed, it might even out some. But, to my surprise, nothing happened. So, I got my spray bottle of alcohol and spritzed it really good and then the color began to run. It's the alcohol that was causing the bleeding. The lighter poplar is taking on a pinkish hue and the cherry doesn't seem to have been bothered. And, my mixture isn't 90% as I thought. It's really just 70% straight out of the bottle. Anyway, I let it sit for about a half hour and low and behold the glue started letting go. So I now have the top and bottom loose from the rest of it and soon, I'll have it all apart. Maybe there is light at the end of the tunnel and it won't be an oncoming train.

It's the Weldwood that is white like Elmer's. First time I've used it mainly because it dries clear.

I might give that a try. I'm thinking seriously of just painting the whole thing and use it for nails and screws.

I'm thinking a torch Dave.

When gluing up Padauk you should also wipe it down with acetone to clean off the oil so the glue bonds well.

I would never use water to see to see what the finish looks like. Alcohol my be ok but not mixed with water. As Kevin mentioned, water is used to raise the grain to sand off when you are using a water based topcoat. I know you are going to hate hearing this, but I use a spritz of mineral spirits to see what the wood will look like with oil on it. Just like everything else in life, woodworking is a trial. You will know better next time you want to mix tropical woods with light woods. I’ve seen it happen. I’ve seen guys build a chess board with Paduck and Maple. Then sand it all down and end up with a horrible mess! The oils in the Paduck leached into the Maple.