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Okay, I admit it. I am a string saver - or in this case a scrap saver. I have a box full of little scraps of walnut, cherry, curly maple, etc. They are just too nice to toss out and besides I just might need them some day. There. I confessed. I have taken a break from scrolling as I am building a jewelry chest for my granddaughter with plus a month of wintering in Florida. So it has been months since I scrolled and I am out of practice. So I thought about creating a pattern that would work with some of those scraps and resharpen my scrolling skills. Here's the result - cut in, as yet, unfinished cherry. This was before I added the oval seen in the attached pattern and added a bit of safety allowance for the dropouts in the word "Peace". This particular stock was 3.5"x 4.25" was and required me to use a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse 2/0 blade. That took some real getting used to. Man, those blades are thin! I will be finishing this in my new "home brew" Danish oil/ then Shellac sealer and finally, lacquer. (By the way this formula for Danish oil dries much faster than Watco. Odor free in a day-and-a- half and safe to finish coat in 3 days.) If you missed my post on that here's the website where I found the formula. https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2018/09/18/danish-oil-finish-top-3-reasons-to-mix-your-own/ MASTER single belzeir dove final.pdf

I made a sign for the owner of a great local restaurant for his birthday. If nothing else our hobby allows you to make one of a kind gifts.

Fun little cut of Jack Black. Used an image from Google.

I made this for my seven year old grandson who just got a dog. Sue Mey pattern

Couple more Steve Good patterns that appealed to me. 3/4" select pine and #5 Pegas MGR blades. It was interesting cutting 3/4" pine; cutting with the grain and thru knots cut slower and then across the grain went faster. Oh, and something else I did with the sun pattern was to drill holes just past points of the sun's rays - it eliminated to make a loop with the saw blade and come back around. I enlarged the patterns a bit - the sun is 8 1/2" and the owl is just under 9". For the owl, I used a leftover piece of flat white PVC. One of these days I need to move on to the next step and finish what I've cut. Or talk my wife into doing it.

These are all Russ Beard Patterns except for Jesus Christ which is Botas Helder pattern, new scrolling and and just got cutting, learning all the time. Sorry my apologies the Shark I was given permission by Deane, can’t remember his full name my apologies.

An easy Steve Good pattern cut out on 3/4" pine. 18 1/4" long. It's simple, but I like it and hope someone else will too.

Basket pattern by Alex Fox. I used 1/4" Hard Maple 10" square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1R MGT blades. The finish is two coats of spray Shellac with sanding between coats. This piece of wood was extremely cupped and after cutting the rings and gluing, turned out nice and flat. Comments welcome.

I am working with 1/4" Cherry on my new pattern. I think faster blade speed with slower feed makes sense. I am using an Excalibur with the upgraded Pegus blade holders.

Marg, I don’t use a template. I overlay the picture with clear shelf liner and draw a grid on it to keep the rows and columns relatively straight. The locks are cut freehand. Easier to see on the back side.

Hi I stay in South Africa, the Land of the Big Five. I’m a 75 year old pensioner and have been scrolling for about a year ( not sure) just about to complete my fifth cut which is a Russ Beard Leopard, so I’m still learning. I enjoy reading and listening to music

Finished this morning. Botas Helder pattern on white poplar burl slab. 21 X 11 X 3/4 109 cuts with Sawbird #3 ultra reverse. Pre-oil and post oil pics.

In South Africa we are taught to always think outside the box, saying this I know there are Wen, Ryobi and plants more that has the same footprint. My Mechanical and Civil Engineer friend tells me that vibration is to understand the frequency, once you understand that you can solve the problem. So he designed a stand attached is the result, we achieved the same results when it was just standing unbolted on the Stan, but being bolted down was even better.

I have never had any luck with FD UR 2/0 blades. I use mostly FD UR blades except the 2/0. When I need a small blade, I go back to Olson 2/0 r blades. I have better control with them

I never have any trouble turning tight corners when using #2/0 blades...then I use spirals most of the time. When using any flat MGT R blade, and have a very tight inside corner I tend to use the double cut method. Cut to the intersection, back out cut a cross over to the opposite line and cut into the intersection. Turn the piece around the free blade and proceed to cut the line. No difficulty with any blade. For very pointy outside corners I do a loop pattern beyond the point and start the scecond side cut just beyond the point to get a very sharp point.

Sometimes trying to make the turn too quickly will give you an issue. Especially with thinner blades. When this starts happening I normally stop at the corner and wait for the blade to catch up and not be flexed. We're talking maybe half a second so burning should not be an issue. I fully agree with keeping proper tension on the blade.

If the blade is twisting, then you are turning the piece too quickly and not allowing the blade to cut through the turn. The smaller the blade the more careful you have to be. You can solve this by a combination of speeding the blade up and slowing the rate you are turning the wood. Also be careful not to ne lifting the wood off the table as you are turning it.

I use them quite a bit. They are very flimsy so get it as tight as you can and use thin wood like 1/8". Even at that it can still be agrivating. Going really slow is key as well. Now, if you want those tight corners with a stiffer blade then try the 2/0 jewelers blades. They have a ton of teeth, are stiffer and can cut super tight corners without the aggrivation. Plus they are like $20 for a gross on amazon. I use the pike brand like most people do. They come in a gold package. The downside of these is there are no reverse teeth so it will made a terrible mess on the back side. The way to fix this is to tape a piece of backing scrap to your piece and cut them both at the same time. The blade can cut two pieces of 1/8" stock with a bit of care. You have to go slow as possible though. Once I stumbled onto this method, it was hard to go back to regular scrollsaw blades. I still use thes jewelers ones 90% of the time.

Wonderful job, well done

Pattern by Jim Blume with thanks, cut from sweet chestnut

Okay, both of those are cool! And nicely cut!

+1!

Beautiful! Will make great ornaments.

That is lovely.

Yes I like it, well done. Marg

They are fabulous. I especially like the owl/moon. Marg

I used a basswood round for this and learned that basswood is really difficult to stain and finish. It cuts easy though.

Excellent work. Marg

Great piece. Now to find a closet door to hang it on!

Great work on the sign... and we've got about a dozen Mi Casita restaurants in my area.

yes that is excetly what is happening.... Spike will take a look at it tomarrow and check out the sight. and i'll see if i can watch so i'll know and understand whats happening and how to fix it. Hopefuly nothing will ever happen to spike but he'll be 75 in may and someday I might be alone. I know how to do a lot of things, IF things arent on to tight for me to get off. lol I had a flat tire once and I had the car jacked up and was trying to get the lug nuts off, a guy in a truck passed me just as i had my hand on the trunk and was jumping on jack to try to get one of the lug nuts off...He turned around and came back and asked me are you trying to kill yourself!!! NEVER JUMP on a jack like that!! lol then he took the flat off and put the spair on for me.... I know things have to be tight but gezz we cant do the things we know how to do IF things are so tight we cant get them off. lol and now its just about my bedtime. pictures tomarrow and thank you to everybody!!

lol ok we'll take pictures tomarrow of what is going on. what seems to be happening is that the long yellow arm of the saw isnt going down far enough so that the blade dosent reach the top clamp. In all the years iv been scrolling iv never run into a proublem like this. We still have 2 dewalts set up...spike took the 3d one apart and stored the parts so they can be used to try to get one of the saws working...

Sounds good. I'll have spike read what N C scroller wrote and see if spike wants to take a look at the sight and then decide if he wants to take a look at it... He uses utube to check out how to do things with his tracker so maybe he can do the same with the scroll saw, either way waiting is not a problem. worse comes to worse and i get all the unfinished projects done I can always go to my sons house and borrow my grandsons scroll saw to cut out a few of things. lol iv always got things in different stages of progress i can work on. It drives spike crazy when ever you have the time just let me know. just watched the vido and yes that dosnt look hard at all, although im not sure how that effects the long arm from going down far enough so the blad wont be to short....lol but hey i dont have to understand. lol

I can probably take a look at the saw for you, but it might be a while as I've got myself into a big major job of swapping a car frame from one car to another car. But maybe in 2-4 weeks I can get with you and take a look at what is going on. Do the blades that are too short fit in the other saw? I half wonder two scenarios.. one being I wonder if you have a bad batch of blades. I bought a few blades a while back and some actually are defective and only measure about 4.5 inch instead of 5.. The other thing is.. I wonder if someone had the saw apart and cranked up the tension rod too tight.. Lot's of people that develop a knocking sound see those YouTube videos that has you tighten the tension rod up some.. I've seen some people really crank them up to the point the arm won't come all the way down. But anyway, I'd suggest measuring the blades as a starting point.. Anyway, if we can get out of the cold and rain spell so I can actually get caught up on my projects I can probably swing by and take a look at those saws you have.

I use an old collapsible work bench thing i bought at sears years ago for the table. I dont even have the saw bolted to it. Vibrtated more bolted than unbolted. For the seat I use a cheapo folding chair from walmart with a big round pad i bought on the seat. The pad doubles as a pad for my motorcycle seat as its uncomfortable with the factory seat and I am cheap. I get the feeling its not so much about a rigid table, like the make earthquake resistant building, its about it being able to absorb the vibtrations. Dont know for sure but works for my case. I also dont do think wood on fast speed so there is that too.

Let's do some basic math. I use roughly 3 sheets of balitc birch plywood a year. I would say that 1/3 to 1/2 of my baltic birch plywood is used for ornaments. I get at least 144 ornaments from a 5 x 5 sheet but often times over 200. So, using 144, at $20 a sheet , my old price, each ornament cost me 14 cents in material. I sell my cheapest ornaments for $5 each. So even if the price doubles or triples I can live with it.

In the progress of cutting another pattern by Jim Blume, '' Roaring Cat '' . Looks like this after about 20 hrs and 200 entry cuts . The mouth part is cut out except a few spots to keep it there till all the rest of the pattern is cut out, to protect the whiskers from being broken off, very delicate.

Celebrating with a new puzzle "Meeting on the Mound" 11.25”x12” - 240 pieces

In this project I combined peace symbol and an anti-war slogan "Make love, not war". Top layer has quite fragile areas, but I didn't change it because I liked the way it looks. Peace pattern Video of making project

Finished this up today, cut from 1/4 project panel with a 1/8B backer and a painted pine frame. Hope I got it right Frank!

Very nicely done!

great job

fantastic job

Oh wow that is amazing. Marg

Excellent pattern and excellent artwork.

I did one awhile back took ages so many pilot holes.

Take your time when cutting inlays and make sure not to push sideways. These were 1/4 into 1/4 inch material. Olson 2/0 R 28 TPI

I'm relieved to see others who are struggling with inlay, being new with scroll sawing I thought it was just me. Especially thick wood, it shur is pretty cool when you know the way to do it.

I'm not sure if there's a table but you also should include blade thickness into the formula. I went back to high school geometry to determine thickness with some success. Grab some scraps of wood and do a few tests to determine the angle that works for your project.

This was a tricky cut. Pattern is supposed to be 11X14 I shrunk it to 8 1/2X11 stack cut 2 1/4" bb #2 pegas skip