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I did a mock set-up at my house today and so glad I did it. Realized items I was missing that I had sold at my last event back in December and didn't remember... Arranged a couple of things differently with help from the wife. Displaying fewer non-dog puzzles to make room for more racks and other new items. Dog puzzles and leash holders are far and away the top selling group. This year going with black tablecloths versus white. It was very windy so I couldn't stand any puzzles up on the tables. Happy with how it looks and ready for my first event coming up Friday & Saturday.

Stack cut the white layer, 1/8” Baltic birch. The back layer is 1/2” maple that I glued and planed. After cutting, I gave them to my wife for painting. She is keeping the blue rabbit. The pink rabbit is going to one of our grand nieces. Sue Mey pattern.

Just wanted to note that I haven't been idle. Warmer weather brings chores around the farm and I've been working on a few commissions when at the saw. Since I've done the "WELCOME" signs with interchangeable toppers, I've gotten multiple requests. The pics below are two of the commissions with a new topper that is a Steve Good pattern. The front is maple stained natural and the back is birch stained espresso. Both are 1/4 inch. The are finished with 4 coats of clear with a light sanding between each coat. I've also been doing some of my other toppers which I've shown in a past post. I'm ready to get these commissions done so I can get back on one of Jim Blume's patterns I'd love to finish.

I decided to try @alexfox newest Make Love Not War. For my use I only needed the top layer on a backer. But I had to downsize to 2.75inches wide. This made the branches really thin. I used a 2/0 spiral going slow. I did the internal letter first. I forgot to drill an "O". It was too late to drill it. So I left it alone. Next I did the letters. There was just enough space between the letters and ribbon outline for the 2/0 spiral. It shows i need more practice with the spirals. Oh it is on 1/8" thick Maple. Not plywood. To enhance the 3D effect, I cut outer edge at 45 deg. with #1mgt. Very difficult. I had to pay extra attention. I did this last. This is unfinished. The backer still has a few weeks to be finished. The attached 3 pics show black walnut back, maple back and a pic with pattern still on. The patterns shows smoke marks from using a flame to get the fuzzies off.

I am making several of the Alex Fox key holders for family and wanted to stack cut them. I usually avoid that because the double sided tape tears up my wood and leaves a tacky mess. I came up with this alternative- I used blue tape on both pieces, placed a few drops of cyanoacylate glue on one piece and sprayed the other with activator and then stuck them together. It worked great and the pieces separated easily. Thought I would pass it along. I apologize if this has already been posted.

Hi All I Made a little Steve good bunny. My first project using real solid wood instead of ply. It was a little thick for my saw. Still I know its limits now.

Okay, I admit it. I am a string saver - or in this case a scrap saver. I have a box full of little scraps of walnut, cherry, curly maple, etc. They are just too nice to toss out and besides I just might need them some day. There. I confessed. I have taken a break from scrolling as I am building a jewelry chest for my granddaughter with plus a month of wintering in Florida. So it has been months since I scrolled and I am out of practice. So I thought about creating a pattern that would work with some of those scraps and resharpen my scrolling skills. Here's the result - cut in, as yet, unfinished cherry. This was before I added the oval seen in the attached pattern and added a bit of safety allowance for the dropouts in the word "Peace". This particular stock was 3.5"x 4.25" was and required me to use a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse 2/0 blade. That took some real getting used to. Man, those blades are thin! I will be finishing this in my new "home brew" Danish oil/ then Shellac sealer and finally, lacquer. (By the way this formula for Danish oil dries much faster than Watco. Odor free in a day-and-a- half and safe to finish coat in 3 days.) If you missed my post on that here's the website where I found the formula. https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2018/09/18/danish-oil-finish-top-3-reasons-to-mix-your-own/ MASTER single belzeir dove final.pdf

Fun little cut of Jack Black. Used an image from Google.

You have the right idea Frank sometimes I will put slight back pressure as I turn a corner

I never have any trouble turning tight corners when using #2/0 blades...then I use spirals most of the time. When using any flat MGT R blade, and have a very tight inside corner I tend to use the double cut method. Cut to the intersection, back out cut a cross over to the opposite line and cut into the intersection. Turn the piece around the free blade and proceed to cut the line. No difficulty with any blade. For very pointy outside corners I do a loop pattern beyond the point and start the scecond side cut just beyond the point to get a very sharp point.

Ray, I use Stick Fast CA glue and I am happy with its results. I buy it from Woodcraft but it is available from Amazon also. I buy the medium size bottle and the medium set up speed. I used the accelerator if I need a 3rd hand when gluing parts together but mostly holding parts together for a minute or two does the trick. If I am not quick enough to put the cap back on, the tip can get clogged up and I'll just use a very small drill to open up the hole. Heck, its also great for cuts! I was cutting up some boxes with a utility knife and slipped and cut across the top of my thumb and cut through the nail. Squeezed it all together and put a drop of CA on the cut and it healed up in 3 days. ( DO NOT THE ACCELORATOR!! That will really hurt!) They have been using it in hospitals for years. It's been my go to CA glue.

Ray mate..I don't buy/use CA in tubes after you use it an put the cap back on don't lay it down it seals I used to try to keep it upright but that's almost impossible. I only use CA that comes in small plastic bottles and when I have applied the glue before replacing the top/cap I bang the base of said bottle squarely on the bench to clear the hole and then I replace the cap/top that way next time you use it it should be ready for the CA to run/drip as required. As for accelerators never had much luck but I did find some that seems ok it's a spray will check it out when I get to the workshop in a few hours, I brought it in NZ so..... Cheers Merlin...

Hi Ray: I have had the same problem. I ordered this from Amazon. It is CA Glue in small tubes. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PILFVY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you are using great quantities it would be a problem but if, like me, you need it occasionally this minimizes waste. Bruce

On one of my FB pages the gals use the tape then the spray glue on the tape to stick together. Same idea.

I have done this for other items but never thought about it for stack cutting with the scroll saw. Thanks for adding another way to accomplish a task.

Hmmm, I never thought of that. I got a pin-nailer for Christmas and it works great for 1/2" or greater stack cutting, but there have been a couple times I've wanted to stack only 2 or 3 1/8" pieces where the 1/2" pin is too long. I'll give CA glue a try next time. Thanks for the tip.

I used to use screws in the waist area. If the screws poke through the back you can simply back them out some. when you're done you can remove the screws and save for the next project. I now have a pin nailer and use it for certain projects but sometimes the nail sizes are too long or short.. then the screws come in handy.

tips and tricks are always welcome thank you.

I use Pegas blades but when using the 2/0, I turn the speed of the blade up and slow my cuts. When I get to a corner, I stop to make sure the blade has caught up, apply back pressure and make the turn with the piece trying not to move the blade back but keeping it at the intersection. Once I've made the turn, I proceed again slowly to the next intersection. Never had any problems with blade twist. I do make sure I have good tension and if I see the tension lessens during the cut, I'll stop, reset the blade and apply the correct tension again.

This was my take on the Steve Good pattern. Sent it to my sister.

I have been using the lock tight gell ,I have had a bottle for I don't know how long,the accelerator I use came from Rockler and it don't smell anything like water. Can't remember the price but it works ,I don't use it a lot tho.

So I was watching an excellent video by Bob Stroka on how-to- replace /repair bearings on a Dewalt 788. I did check out eparts replacement and the schematics doesn't show any bearings listed at all. Been reading about how hard it is to get some parts for certain scroll saws. Maybe I'm looking to far ahead by I'd feel better if I could locate some and buy them should I ever need them. Not planning on burning up my saw any time soon, just want to stay ahead of the game if possible. I did see one web site a member posted, VXB bearings.com and went there (they got thousands). Looks like you better have a part no. to order the right one. I'm guessing maybe a few of you guys have actually done that so if one of you has can you please post, email me some info (where to by, part nos.). My saw is running fine for now no hurry and the guy I bought it from didn't run it to much, so looks like not to much wear and tear, had it sitting around the garage, said it was about 8 years old. . Any info would be very appreciated. Love this place.

Good to know! I'm writing that down.

Basket pattern by Alex Fox. I used 1/4" Hard Maple 10" square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1R MGT blades. The finish is two coats of spray Shellac with sanding between coats. This piece of wood was extremely cupped and after cutting the rings and gluing, turned out nice and flat. Comments welcome.

Thanks for the suggestions - I'll try them. The Craftsman pin-nailer I have lists 1/2" inch as the shortest it will take, but I've seen 3/8" inch pin nails on Amazon with an answered question that they would work on any pin-nailer. I may spring for a box of them just to see if they work.

I use E_Z Bond cyanoacrylate for pen finishing. One thing with CA is that moisture in the air will cause it to set up. It takes a while but if you don't seal it with the provided cap it will harden after a few weeks to a month. I have some thin CA that is now the consistency of thick CA. Useless. If course it's been on the bench, half full, for about 4 months. You can store unopened bottles in a refrigerator and it will keep for years, in my experience. I also have used Loctite and several other brands with good results. As for accelerators, they contain acetone, ethyl alcohol, and other ingredients. The reaction between the accelerator and CA is less than a second so don't get the CA on your fingers if you are using accelerator. The reaction can cause nasty burns. Avoid trying water as it will make a mess and doesn't act as an accelerator.

If you read labels the ca glue states that if the parts are damp it will stick better. I ran out of accelerator one time and just used water from spray bottle. Couldn’t tell any difference.

I use this. As long as I remember to put the lid back on tight, I've never had it dry up on me. I don't use accelerator. Sets up fast enough for me without it.

Nice cutting on those signs, be careful you might get TO busy with orders

Thanks for the quantity on the HK0810. I haven’t taken my DW788 (type 1) apart yet. Could you please tell me the quantity required for the other 2 bearings sizes? HK0609 and HK1412. Many thanks

great job

excellent job

Those look really nice! Great job on the lettering.

I like to stack cut and keeping the panels together is always a PIA, the more techniques the better. I'm working on one now that is driving me crazy. Two 12 x 16 plaques and I didn't get them tight enough together, Now, the blades are snagging, bending inside, and breaking way too often. With everything else going on right now it's just a little to much.

I use FD Polar blades about 90% of the time. I like the stiffness of the Polar blades. With the type of pattern you're cutting I cut to the point and use the back of the blade as the pivot point, IMHO the burr on stamped blades helps in this situation, as you pivot the blade (in the direction of the burr) the burr will help with the cut. When I am cutting a pattern with waste areas, I will use Franks technique or Cut to the point back out of the cut about 1/4" then rotate the blade 180 (just inside the waste side) then back the blade to the corner and then shift the blade and cut the sharp point. Which technique just depends on the pattern, the wood, and how I feel on a particular day.:)

They look terrific. Great work. Marg

Never been a big fan but you did a terrific job, well done. Marg

Very nice works - I think there will be lots of more orders in the future!

Nice job. Like your wood choice.

Very nice setup and good luck over the weekend, happy Easter, RJ

I made this for my seven year old grandson who just got a dog. Sue Mey pattern

I made a sign for the owner of a great local restaurant for his birthday. If nothing else our hobby allows you to make one of a kind gifts.

I love the live-edge stock. It really adds a lot to the beautiful cutting. Well done! 1

Nicely done. I especially like the horse head. Beautiful!!

It looks terrific, well done. Marg

The designs were something I created from clipart. The box designs are John A. Nelson with some modifications by me. I bought the hinges from https://www.nationalartcraft.com/product-index.asp I don't think the rectangular ones are available any more. I stopped making them as they wasted a lot of wood. Having said that, I still have some of the hinges and should use them up. This was my collection.

That's all I'm doing right now is playing and enjoying my new toy. In no rush to work on it, and not pushing it. I just really love this saw (788 Dewalt) and would rather replace parts then to move up. Saw fits me perfect. Found it a little funny you used the word fretting, that's the kind of scrolling I'm really interested in right now, but do plan on experimenting with other arts/crafts. I'll stop worrying but not fretting, LOL.

Thanks for the info Charlie, going to make a note about the Dixie bearings. A second place to buy is always welcomed.Don't rotate 360 deg. new to me, taught they did and like the rotate sleeves after greasing. Much appreciated.

Thank you, thank you, thank you Don. I really appreciate you taking the time to post that information. Already in my must-have-notes. I just knew someone here had that info somewhere. I'm fairly new to the scrolling so to me that's valuable information. Amazingkevin suggested repacking bearings if none on hand, also a great quick fix. Going to order me some soon. Said before and I'll say it again, the people this forum are amazing. Have a great day.

"Just repacked them with syn grease" now that's a really good idea. My light bulb upstairs hadn't clicked on that, (to be entered in my notes for future). Much appreciated advice, love the amount of wisdom on this forum.