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I saw this on a social media Ad the other day, I felt compelled to make it today, I just hand drew it out on the wood & cut it out....then did a little shaping......now I will have to make a shelf for it..... American heritage & red mahogany stains....simple powerful piece. God Bless

My latest cut is the Russ Beard Leopard, this is my fifth cut, it took me about between 40-50 hours to cut, to time is not an issue. The pattern was cut on a highly modified Marlet Scroll Saw (your Wen) using 1/4” Prime Ply Grade B/BB. Used approximately 4 Doz Niqua #1 & 2 Blades ( not much choice where I live). Finished with Rustins Danish Oil, then two coats Medium Oak wood stain, and the a final coat of clear Matt varnish. The frame is going to be pine if I can find straight pieces most of our pine looks like gem clips, once the frame is made I want to burn it with a blow torch and brush it with a wire brush until I’ve got a true rustic Africa feel to it and apply sanding sealer and some Gloss Clear Varnish.

Steve Good has some very basic tutorials on using Inkscape to do what you are wanting to do. Check him out at Scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com..

For the samll amount of CA I need in this hobby I have gone to using the Loctite or Gorrila brand CA, but in the gel form. More expensive than using the larger bottles available, but I do use up these small bottles before they can dry up, as long as I put the cap back on quickly. The loose liquid CA is too easy to spill or drip and makes using a very small amount difficult. I can put a single drop of the gel on a break or the like much easier. Afte it dries, it can even be cleaned up with some Dremel Burrs as needed. I have also mixed it with sawdust to fill a voild. Works better than using Titebond and sawdust.

Howdy, Does anyone know where to purchase a plastic alphabet letter stencil for tracing names? Thanks, Juan

I used to sell Ca glue and Accelerator when I worked in a hobby shop. Accelerator is not necessary. Just blow on it and the moisture from your breath will accelerate it just as well.

One change I made is because I have to sit when I scroll I found the stand too high, I’ve reduced the stand height to 25” plus the height of the Wen, it’s now very comfortable.

Thank you, Don...i am vey interested in seeing your stand!

I will post it here for you, had to make a slight adjustment, I found the stand height was a little, which lead to me sitting uncomfortably.

I see nothing in that pattern that I could not cut efficiently with a #1 or even a #3 blade. I have been scrolling for many years, cut some highly detailed patterns and don't believe I have used a full dozen 2/0 blades. I would suggest your issues would diminish or disappear with a larger blade. JMHO

Nice work on this one Dan. I have seen some similar, but slightly different ones from Steve Good and Sue Mey recently. I liked them all and have been procrastinating on attempting one.

great idea

G'day Juan, If you have any type of writing programme on your computer, type out what you want , choose and enlarge the font , and print it out. Stick it to your project and cut. Notebook, Word, https://www.lifewire.com/free-word-processors-1356338 ABC abc

Any office supply, hobby store or arts and crafts stores in your area probably have some. I believe I have seen them before at Walmart and Target as well.

For this time of year it make a powerful statement.

Hobby Lobby has many different stencils and precut letters/numbers.

Yes, it would be easier using a computer, but unfortunately I am a zero with computers, LOL!

I have had no luck using accelerator in pump containers, it always evaporated. Aerosol cans cost more but are usable to the end.

Amazon has them as well as Joann fabric. Why do you want to use plastic stencils? Isn't using a computer easier?

Seyco.com has what you need.

I've been wanting to cut these Steve Good patterns for some time. The horse is 3/4" Select Pine with Pegas MGR # 5 blades. Now to figure what to finish it with. The switch plate toppers (1/8" BB) I'm going to see if they will sell at the town farmers market this summer. Used some #5's and #3's. And now . . . time to relax.

No room and no time to cut 'em, so just doing away with them. Mixed emotions. They are what I started with and I enjoy cutting them as they're quick and simple... but not enough sales to justify them.

Roger that! Today I cut on 3/4" pine, 1/2" red oak, and 1/4" Baltic Birch. The differences in cutting speed, feed rate, and blade lasting sharpness was noticeable.

Thanks for the recommendation, Tony. I have ordered a batch. Bruce

Basket pattern by Alex Fox. I used 1/4" Hard Maple 10" square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1R MGT blades. The finish is two coats of spray Shellac with sanding between coats. This piece of wood was extremely cupped and after cutting the rings and gluing, turned out nice and flat. Comments welcome.

If you read labels the ca glue states that if the parts are damp it will stick better. I ran out of accelerator one time and just used water from spray bottle. Couldn’t tell any difference.

I had the same problem with the 2/0 reverse in fact I ruined a piece because they were to aggressive on the turns, looks like I will go back to the regular FD 2/0 which I was happy with and no problems.

Apparently FD UR 2/0 blades are historically notorious for being difficult to control. I experienced this myself many years ago and I avoided FD blades in general for some time, due to the bad experience I had with the 2/0. However, over the years I've heard this complaint from several other veteran scrollers, confirming the fact that there is a distinct difference between FD 2/0 and other brands. In fact, a few of us were discussing this very issue at our last scroll saw club meeting a couple weeks ago. I've sometime wondered if the "problem", if there was one, ever got resolved. I haven't tried an FD UR 2/0 in a long time. I still use Olson 2/0, but mainly FD's for other sizes and types of blades.

i use the techniques described by Frank and Wichman. I use the Pegas 2/0 blades and find that I have to reduce the tension because they are fragile. I have had brand new blades snap just from applying full tension.

Fun little cut of Jack Black. Used an image from Google.

I use FD Polar blades about 90% of the time. I like the stiffness of the Polar blades. With the type of pattern you're cutting I cut to the point and use the back of the blade as the pivot point, IMHO the burr on stamped blades helps in this situation, as you pivot the blade (in the direction of the burr) the burr will help with the cut. When I am cutting a pattern with waste areas, I will use Franks technique or Cut to the point back out of the cut about 1/4" then rotate the blade 180 (just inside the waste side) then back the blade to the corner and then shift the blade and cut the sharp point. Which technique just depends on the pattern, the wood, and how I feel on a particular day.:)

I made a sign for the owner of a great local restaurant for his birthday. If nothing else our hobby allows you to make one of a kind gifts.

Another thing to consider when cutting inlays is the direction in which you cut. Because of the angle of the cut, a very sharp (pointed) turn can try and force the blade to cut across itself. I don't think I am explaining this very well, but if you set the blade at an angle and try and cut a sharp point in one direction, then the other, you will see what I mean.