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I found this online. I don’t remember where. Shudderstock maybe. I made the oak frame myself. I liked the way it came out. Comments welcome.

I receive Steve Good’s daily E-mails with his patterns. His Email, with this Hourglass pattern, was received on April 7, 2022. Many of Steve’s patterns are simple and not the kind of work I like to do. However, this one caught my eye and, although not my usual work, I knew it was something I wanted to build. A big THANK YOU goes out to Steve. That same day I ordered two of the Hourglass’s from Amazon and the next day I ordered two pieces of ¼” x 12” x 24” solid Mahogany from Ocooch Hardwoods. I stack cut as much as I could and with careful layout of the pieces on the board’s I was left with two scrap pieces of decent size that will be put to good use on a future project. The multiple Top and Bottom pieces were cut from stacks of four, while the fretwork pieces were cut from stacks of three. All cutting was done using Pegas #1 MGT R blades. Only broke a total of 3 blades. The last one broke about ½” away from the end of the very last cut. I just finished the first one and second is all cut and in the process of being sanded and finished prior to assembly. Although Steve’s pattern is very accurate, the glass is not as precise. I needed to make some very minor adjustments on this first one, that would allow the Top and bottom to capture the Hourglass snug. Not sure if it will be the same for number two as I have not done a dry fit up yet. When I cut the mortises, I was very careful to make sure I did not cut them too large. As a result, I did have to do a considerable amount of filing to allow the tenons to fit. All pieces were finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer, prior to assembly. I’m considering enhancing the wood color with some Mahogany stain on the second one. I used Locktite Super Glue Gel that allows for more assembly time and much less glue squeeze out. I did use clamps to make sure the Top and Bottom assemblies captured the Hourglass snugly. I hope you enjoy and as always, comments and critiques are much apprciated. BTW, my Lady went GAGA over this one and it will probably wind up living on her desk. If the sceond one comes out as well, it will be displayed at the at the Gallery with a nice hefty price tag.

Hello everybody, I'm very happy. I finally received my Chrismast gift of my Chérie but she never said it's for 2021. After many adventures, my scroll saw is finally arrived. I ordered it at October 2021, I'm very patient isn't? I tried it yesterday, that is incredible! Very quiet, no vibration. Compared to my first, it's another world. That is Rolls! (I never had a Rolls but I suppose) Now, I'll can to saw without stopping, night and day. Lol ! I think you can understand my English

Pattern from Wooden Teddy Bear 8x11

An Alex Fox Basket C-12 completed yesterday. I used 1/4" solid Hard Maple. Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #1R MGT blades. Actually, only one blade. The finish is two coats spray Lacquer Clear Gloss with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

My wife asked me to make a Charcuterie Tray with those extra pieces of wood I had in my shop! I am still processing the concept of "extra pieces of wood". But she humors me, so I try to humor her. I finished it in time for Easter and you can see it loaded for the Easter family get-together. So, here it is. It is approximately 18" x 24". The sides are 1/2" black walnut. The bottom is all 1/4", several species including bubinga and black walnut (the extra wood I had lying around). We finished it with Boo's Mystery Oil and Boo's Board Cream. We had a great Easter get-together. Hoping you all had a good Easter.

Made a frame from pine, burnt it with a blow torch and then brushed it with a wire brush until I achieved the desired effect. Then applied sanding sealer and a clear coat of Matt varnish.

In a reply to my Sands of Time Slipping By post in Bragging Rights, meflick wrote: “I think with Steve’s (Steve Good) patterns, he aims for fairly easy to do projects that don’t take a lot of time for new scrollers and those with little time to work on big projects. I think that serves a large audience and is needed, especially in bringing new people to the hobby. However, You, Dave and many others on here are much more advanced and detailed in your work so I can see where you would not regularly find things on his site appealing to your needs. That’s why it’s good we have other good artists who do more intricate and detail patterns as well. Plus, you and Dave both like to come up with your own ideas or spin on things…“ The part of his reply is something I have been giving a lot of thought to of late. I for one, get bored easily so doing the same type of projects over and over makes me get bored very quickly. That is why finding and choosing what Scroll Saw Pattern’s to do has becomeo difficult. The following is intended to just open a discussion with no right’s or wrong’s, but maybe just some insite’s as to how WE, as individuals, treat this part of our activity. Here is me waxing out load: Yes, we have great Artist/pattern makers that produce a wonderful array of patterns for those of us who are not so talented in that area of this hobby. However, that to me is a slight problem, as I don't care to be a "copycat", if you can understand my meaning. Also, portraits (people faces) are not my thing nor is many of the other typical topics such as Indians, western scenes, cabins, mountains, etc. And even though I have done a lot of Eagle patterns, many bird patterns, a quite a few big cat patterns and others, some domestic animals (Cats and Dogs) as well as many wildlife patterns are not on the top of my to-do list. And, this is just me, but I do not generally do religious patterns as I feel they are in the category with political work that expresses an opinion that may not be appreciated by all who reads these posts in SSV. Then there is the fact that I like to add color to my work, and many of the “typical” Scroll Saw patterns are mainly intended as a B&W (dark and light contrasting wood colors) image. Patterns of florals, birds, butterfly’s, etc. are all subjects that lend themselves to having color added. Also, as current resident of Florida, my taste in subjects, especially for my “ART”, is more “southern, ocean, beachy, boating, tropical, etc” which, with few exceptions, are not typical Scroll Saw Pattern subjects. Although I consider myself as a somewhat talented Craftsman who produces “ART” with a Scroll Saw, as I stated above, some of us are not the talented Artist/pattern makers that we would like to be. As a result, in order to keep from getting bored with the subjects I cut, I have been forced to become somewhat skilled at working in Inkscape and have resorted to kind of pilfering (free, non-copyrighted, royalty free) images from varied on-line sources that I can convert into scroll saw patterns. Some of which have turned out good and some not quite so much. I still have a lot to learn. Now it is your turn to jump in and add your thoughts.

Enjoy your new toy. I have the same Pegas almost two years now and it is still doing fine. A couple of things. I, and others, have found as time goes by the tension knowb at the rear tends to move durring operation. Simplest solution,,,a little tape ( I now use some duct tape, as the blue tape dries out and come loose). Also, I was spoiled with my previous cheap Porter Cable saw that had a small spot light on the arm that could be aimed at the blade. The Pegas does not have that so I added a magnetic base flexable arm light that I have mounted on the saw arm. I found that just a Magnifier Lamp was not adequate. I like that the added light can throw a nice shadow of the blade makeing it easier to track the blade on the line. I removed the plastic sheet under the table and actually built a wood sawdust collector that is mounted on the stand just below the blade hole. The box is hooked up to my dust collector. Works good if I remember to turn on the dust collector. And BTW, you can remove the hold down device as you wont need it. Just gets in the way.

I always have this question, what to do next. I do not sell my work yet. I am not retired. I don't like being copy cat either. I usually try new stuff. I like to stay away from what a laser can do. Handwork is fun. Fretwork patterns I have learned to try to fit them in my next project. Bowls , cowboy hats. Intarsia / segmentation patterns are good to play with. But intarsia just hangs on a wall. I like to make stuff somewhat functional. Hour glass is an example of both art and functional. I love Franks Fine Artwork. He has the eye for elegance. Kinetic art sounds really fun. I would add motors instead of springs. But making gears is more for lasers. This is my opinion and my basic rule. I also look at stuff beyond scrollsaw projects. Can I make it with a scrollsaw? Wood turners projects don't have to be cylinders. Bottle stoppers are handles, scrollsaws can do handles. That is my summary. Please comment, add your opinions and join in the discussion. Me. Mark Eason

I fully agree with what you had to say Frank. I too really enjoy the more intricate patterns .I do a lot of "Faith" based or "Religious" work and sell a lot of it. Just part of doing business. So the simpler patterns are easy to get out quickly and are a better choice for those selling their art work. There are many great designers out there that do more detailed patterns. There many different aspects to what we do. From cutting to creating to helping others. Sometimes finding that next piece takes as much patience and effort as the work itself.

Beautiful piece Frank. I can see why your wife would have laid claim to it. Only improvement for one for her might have been if it had a hummingbird or two perhaps. (I think you have noted before she loves hummingbirds and have made her several pieces with them. Hope my mind is remembering correctly.) I too liked this pattern when Steve shared it. I think with Steve’s patterns, he aims for fairly easy to do projects that don’t take a lot of time for new scrollers and those with little time to work on big projects. I think that serves a large audience and is needed, especially in bringing new people to the hobby. However, You, Dave and many others on here are much more advanced and detailed in your work so I can see where you would not regularly find things on his site appealing to your needs. That’s why it’s good we have other good artists who do more intricate and detail patterns as well. Plus, you and Dave both like to come up with your own ideas or spin on things. It’s always great though when we do find one we like like this one. Maybe I’ll get time to try one myself.

I would like to thank everyone who responded to this problem which most likely made it easier to find through a Google search. I was dealing with the same issue with my craftsman scroll saw, and I was thinking the problem was either the circuit breaker or the control assembly board. I had both removed completely but could not see anything obviously wrong with either one, so I decided to try google... and Dan, you definitely are the man! I'm not sure if it will work but I am just going to swap the light switch with the power switch as they look identical to me and I don't think I'll be cutting anything in the dark! Thank you so much fellas! Ryan

In very detailed patterns like my Leopard some of the areas where are very, very small and difficult to see. I use a Dremel plunge router with the springs removed and added a small magnifying glass, available from model hobby shops the guys use them to paint models etc. It comes with a stand which I put into storage added a small bracket and now I can see perfectly. WAARNING please be careful keep your fingers under the one plunger i.e. I’m tight handed so I use my left hand for this. Then once it is placed on the pattern a slowly loosen the plunger setting knob, so the weight of the Dremel slides down under its own weight, it works like dream but you have tighten the router after drilling a couple of holes so that the holes are always vertical, once you got the hang of it is great. Hope you find this tip helpful.

SUCCESS! By following these instructions I determined that indeed the problem is the Switch. Dan, you saved me a trip to the Service Center and probably a lot of money -- Thank You very much. I can get a replacement for about $6 - to - $7 dollars on ereplacement. The key though is that you were right-on about how to determine the problem. Now we're all a little smarter! Thanks again, Vin

Just finished this one, I saved all the dropouts and put all of it back together. I'm planning on this being a display at my booth this summer. 1/4 Inch thick material, FD Polar #1 blades, no finish yet. no idea what the wood is.

Today is my beautiful granddaughter’s 5th birthday. Made this for her. She’s just starting tee-ball.

I always like thinking outside the typical patterns when I can. I still haven't been able to make myself sit down and learn the pattern making programs-a short attention span does not help that endeavor. That being said I often look at a pattern I like and then butcher it in my own way. I posted an example -I took a Steve Good vase pattern and turned it into a blue tooth speaker vase. I think I understand what Frank is saying and I agree with him. As an aside one thing I learned while venturing into all of this is to CAREFULLY look over any pattern before trying to cut it. It seems there are people producing patterns who never try to cut them after they create them. If they did they would have seen that some things are impossible to cut due to size, position etc. And kudos to Frank's work with the color-like your parrot cuts-the color really makes them pop.

Thanks. A fun one to make.

Very nice!! Looks to be a 30 inch saw? certainly not the normal 21 inch saw that is most common here in the states. Though they are making them available to us soon from what I've heard. Hope you get a lot of joy and cutting from this well built saw for many years.

That looks terrific! Patience triumphs again!!! Enjoy!

Not the best picture but an Easter cross I recently completed. I believe it was a Sue Mey pattern I used.

I remember years ago when I upgraded to my Excalibur 21. How much of a difference and joy it was. Enjoy your new toy and I wish you many happy hours with it.

CONGRATS!!! Enjoy the new toy tool. For the record, your English is just fine (tres bien).

Very cute. There is a large octopus puzzle pattern in the recent issue of the Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine that just came out in the past week or so. (Noting just in case. You or someone you know really likes octopus )

awesome job

very cute, excellent job

Nicely executed Frank. Will look great on the wife's desk

Thank you for showing, Frank, fine work!

Saw the pattern the other day and thought about it,, Nice job, but I think it's upside down!

Perfect!

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

Great job. Beautiful wood. I see why she likes it so much.

Nice job! That's sure good lookin. I agree with you on Steve's patterns. Now and then he comes up with one that catches my eye and I can put my own spin on it. I've used several and inlayed them.

Outstanding Kris, your designs are the best. Thanks for sharing. Rick

My wife has the Scan &Cut. Good to know it could be useful for Me!

No matter how well I cleaned the tips I was always fighting plugged nozzles. Then I read to not use the caps. I’ve not had a clogged tip since. And it does Not harden in the bottle.

Doesn't matter when they got cut, a good job is a good job.

Maintenance, maintenance, maintenance! No matter what the subject matter.

GreatJob, but I too, like it better before the Oil. Some sort of clear non-yellowing finish may have been a better choice, My favorate is Lacquer. On another note, are you not worried about cracking and curling. I've worked with burl in the past, specificallly for turning bowls. Over time they get better with age, but all curl and crack. Was the slab you used dry...less than 6% moiture ? Most slabs need to be either kiln dried or stacked away to dry for a long time in order to become stable at less then 6% moisture.

For those of us who have killed more than one Dewalt, and of course they always die at the worst possible time, DW = "dirty word".

My new scroll saw arrived on Friday. Only the saw and the stand arrived, not the footswitch or the lighted magnifying glass or the blades that I ordered. Part of my order comes from Bear Woods USA warehouse and part from their Canadian warehouse. It’s curious that the part coming from he USA arrived first. I’m going to set up the new saw close to the old one located in the basement. The Pegas saw is quite heavy and my Festool dolly came in very handy for taking the box down the basement stairs: The dolly is especially designed for moving loads up and down stairways and it did its job very well. Getting the saw out of the box proved to be a challenge. The saw is heavy but not too heavy for me to lift. Sitting right on top of the saw in the box is a warning not to lift it by the arm. I very much appreciated this warning, because I would have attempted to lift it by the arm. However, when I did grab the saw as instructed, it did not want to budge. The problem was not the weight; the problem was that, somehow, the saw was wedged into the box. I ended up cutting one side off the box using a keyhole saw. (The black and yellow handle of the saw can be seen in the above photo). Once the box side was removed, the problem became obvious: The saw was bolted to a plywood panel. That’s a good thing but, maybe, the warning about lifting the saw should also explain about the plywood. The stand came in many parts with no instructions. But, it did have a parts diagram and an experienced person can assemble the stand by close examination of that diagram. I do think that it is a good stand. Here is a photo of the saw on the stand: The saw itself did come with a manual. Very few tools come with good manuals; the best that one can usually hope for is an adequate manual. The manual with this saw is just, barely, adequate. The biggest problem I had with the manual, is that there is no description of how to either assemble or to use the tilting mechanism. Most of the machine came assembled but the parts, including a gear, that comprised the tilting knob and locking components did not. I figured out what and how to assemble the parts from a parts diagram and it seems to work OK but I am not certain. In particular, there is a way to utilize hard stops at certain angles, including 90o of course, and that seems cumbersome the way I have it set up. I need to find a machine that is set up properly and compare what I have done to that machine. But, I don’t know where to find such a machine. Maybe a made-in-Taiwan Excalibur or Excelsior has the same mechanism and I should be able to find one of those at a nearby dealer. I’ve only used the saw for about 10 minutes, but my initial impression is that this is a very good saw. It certainly is quiet. When I first turned it on, I thought that there was something wrong because I did not hear anything. Then I looked and saw that the blade was moving up and down. This photo gives a better idea of how my overall scroll saw area will be set up. I will take another photo once the remaining parts for the Pegas have arrived and been installed and once I acquire a part to connect the small hose on my Festool vacuum to the larger dust port on the Pegas.

You do know that circuit breaker is a push in to reset right??