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Hello everybody, I'm very happy. I finally received my Chrismast gift of my Chérie but she never said it's for 2021. After many adventures, my scroll saw is finally arrived. I ordered it at October 2021, I'm very patient isn't? I tried it yesterday, that is incredible! Very quiet, no vibration. Compared to my first, it's another world. That is Rolls! (I never had a Rolls but I suppose) Now, I'll can to saw without stopping, night and day. Lol ! I think you can understand my English

An Alex Fox Basket C-12 completed yesterday. I used 1/4" solid Hard Maple. Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #1R MGT blades. Actually, only one blade. The finish is two coats spray Lacquer Clear Gloss with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Here are the two Hourglass's I made. As I noted in the original post, I was considring darking the wood a little with Mahagony stain. And, as you can see in the photo, I did just that. Not sure which one we like the best. My Lady is leaning toward the original lighter one while I kind of like the darker a little better. Staining the wood, did add some time to the build to allow for drying time and it was a PITA to get into all the fretwork because I only had Mahogany in the Gel Stain. If I had the regular type it would have probably been a lot easier to dip the fretwork pieces.

It took a little longer as life kept getting in the way. I went thru the pattern library here on SSV and found a pattern by Janevski. I tried putting a different spin on it. Still learning as far as paint and shaping are concerned, but overall it came out pretty good. Chris

Not the best picture but an Easter cross I recently completed. I believe it was a Sue Mey pattern I used.

I receive Steve Good’s daily E-mails with his patterns. His Email, with this Hourglass pattern, was received on April 7, 2022. Many of Steve’s patterns are simple and not the kind of work I like to do. However, this one caught my eye and, although not my usual work, I knew it was something I wanted to build. A big THANK YOU goes out to Steve. That same day I ordered two of the Hourglass’s from Amazon and the next day I ordered two pieces of ¼” x 12” x 24” solid Mahogany from Ocooch Hardwoods. I stack cut as much as I could and with careful layout of the pieces on the board’s I was left with two scrap pieces of decent size that will be put to good use on a future project. The multiple Top and Bottom pieces were cut from stacks of four, while the fretwork pieces were cut from stacks of three. All cutting was done using Pegas #1 MGT R blades. Only broke a total of 3 blades. The last one broke about ½” away from the end of the very last cut. I just finished the first one and second is all cut and in the process of being sanded and finished prior to assembly. Although Steve’s pattern is very accurate, the glass is not as precise. I needed to make some very minor adjustments on this first one, that would allow the Top and bottom to capture the Hourglass snug. Not sure if it will be the same for number two as I have not done a dry fit up yet. When I cut the mortises, I was very careful to make sure I did not cut them too large. As a result, I did have to do a considerable amount of filing to allow the tenons to fit. All pieces were finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer, prior to assembly. I’m considering enhancing the wood color with some Mahogany stain on the second one. I used Locktite Super Glue Gel that allows for more assembly time and much less glue squeeze out. I did use clamps to make sure the Top and Bottom assemblies captured the Hourglass snugly. I hope you enjoy and as always, comments and critiques are much apprciated. BTW, my Lady went GAGA over this one and it will probably wind up living on her desk. If the sceond one comes out as well, it will be displayed at the at the Gallery with a nice hefty price tag.

Thank you Meflick

Well, being somewhat new to scrolling (a little over a year), I still enjoy the portrait type projects although they can be very time consuming. I do like the western themes as well as some of the more rustic patterns. I try to sell some of my work as an attempt to re-coop some of my expense however I know I would never re-coop my time on some of the more elaborate projects. Someone posted a few days ago that it had taken them about 40 hours to finish a cutting. If you value your time at $20 an hour, you would be looking at $800 for just the time alone for a single piece. Don't get me wrong. I scroll for the relaxation and joy of scrolling. I like to know I can take a raw piece of wood and turn it into something I call art. Selling projects is just a means of a supplemental income to augment my scroll saw hobby. I've done a lot of Steve Good patterns and I'm currently working on a couple commissions using several of his patterns, but I look forward to completing these commissions so I can get back to what I enjoy most, the portraits. I've dabbled in pattern creating and actually completed my first pattern recently. I haven't posted it because it is a pattern of my best friend Hershey who is a long hair Chihuahua sitting on a stump after Hurrican Matthew. I like the subject and surrounding area but there is a lot of distraction in the background. In other words, I feel it needs work. I hope to one day be able to tackle one of the large elaborate clocks or towers you see with the very detailed fretwork, but then I see some of Frank's posts with the beautiful colors... or some of the works from other talented scrollers on this forum. I'm in awe at some of the crafts the members on this site create. I've rambled enough and will close by saying I scroll for ME! It relaxes me, it is something I enjoy, I learn something almost every time I sit at the saw and the outcome is something I, and hopefully others, enjoy looking at.

That's a neat idea! Beautiful work too.

I always like thinking outside the typical patterns when I can. I still haven't been able to make myself sit down and learn the pattern making programs-a short attention span does not help that endeavor. That being said I often look at a pattern I like and then butcher it in my own way. I posted an example -I took a Steve Good vase pattern and turned it into a blue tooth speaker vase. I think I understand what Frank is saying and I agree with him. As an aside one thing I learned while venturing into all of this is to CAREFULLY look over any pattern before trying to cut it. It seems there are people producing patterns who never try to cut them after they create them. If they did they would have seen that some things are impossible to cut due to size, position etc. And kudos to Frank's work with the color-like your parrot cuts-the color really makes them pop.

I fully agree with what you had to say Frank. I too really enjoy the more intricate patterns .I do a lot of "Faith" based or "Religious" work and sell a lot of it. Just part of doing business. So the simpler patterns are easy to get out quickly and are a better choice for those selling their art work. There are many great designers out there that do more detailed patterns. There many different aspects to what we do. From cutting to creating to helping others. Sometimes finding that next piece takes as much patience and effort as the work itself.

The second part of your reply addresses something I have been giving a lot of thought to of late. Not to take up room on this post I will be opening a discussion about patterns in a seperate post in the General Scroll Sawig forum in a little while. Watch for it,

GOD BLESS THE U.S.A.!

Boy! I thought I had it tough living at the forest fringe in Saskatchewan Canada

I found this online. I don’t remember where. Shudderstock maybe. I made the oak frame myself. I liked the way it came out. Comments welcome.

Both are beautiful and each will have an appeal to different people no doubt. Like you, I think if I was picking one to keep, I would like the darker tinted one. But, you know that old saying, happy wife, happy, life.

Loskoppie, What saw do you have and what are your problems, I can help with most things because in SA “ ‘n Boer mask ‘n plan” for out English speaking friends it means “A frame can make a plan” because where we are we think out of the box.

I won't complain about the exchange rate between the US dollar & Canadian dollar.

I'm primarily a toymaker. I made toys for girls, and later, when my grandson was born, I started making toys for him. He loves my toys and would keep every one of them if I let him. I have made many fretwork shelves and enjoy making them and plan to get back to them. I don't like portraits and probably would never cut one. I have no problem using someone else's design or paying for it. However, I make changes to almost everything. I like some silhouettes and have made a few plans to make more in the future. Bowls, baskets, and ornaments especially compound cut ornaments. Bowls and baskets are still on the want to try list. I want to make some chess sets. I started one years ago, and my kids kept taking the pieces plus work got in the way. A couple of weeks ago, my grandson asked me to make a chess set, so a chess set has moved to near the top of my list. I sell online, so the business and my grandson drive what I make.

I make toys, and I have seen this repeatedly. One designer admitted this to me after an extended discussion via email. One toy designer has never admitted not building his designs, but he posts rendered photos. Never a photo of an actual toy that he built. When you go to build the toys, you sometimes discover obvious errors and design flaws or parts that are near impossible to make or so weak they are easily broken. All of which would easily be discovered if he had done a test build as part of the proofing.

My experience has been much the same as Frank's. I learned scrolling with Steve Good patterns and the like. Then I moved into increasingly complex fretwork. Along the way I have been studying and sampling many different woods and am intrigued by the qualities and differences. I have recently acquired other woodworking tools but still think of my scroll saw as special to me. I do not sell my work yet but am starting to get requests for wood projects. My current project/request is for a sign for the St Vincent de Paul building at our church. I will post pictures as I progress with it. Check out their website at SVDP USA – Providing Assistance to Those in Need for Over 175 Years (ssvpusa.org).

I agree with Frank. The portraits and scene cutting isn’t for me. I enjoy making the big fret work clocks. I do other kinds of woodworking too but the scroll saw is my favorite tool.

Sorry Eric, I took French in high school and even spent a week in Paris but that was 50 + years ago.

You might try contacting Sue Mey, she's listed in the pattern shops, as she is based in SA. The member map shows 29 members in the Johannesburg area. If you could get together and put in a mass order.....

Thank you Wayne.

Thank you Dgman

thank you Wombatie

Thank you Scott, do you speak French?

Hi agree Rodney. I'm lucky to met her.

Thanks Frank for your advice. they are always welcome it can't be seen in the photo but on it I put a light, I need very good light to cut and I have a magnifying glass too, from time to time it is necessary

Thanks Octoolguy, I'm Frenchman I live near Strasbourg France(East France close to Germany). I think standards are not the same in Europe as in the USA but overall devices are similar Good day

Thank you for your reply, Yes it is, we have the choice between 16", 21" and 30" when I ordered the waiting time was shorter for the 30" Have a good day.

Beautiful work Frank. Marg

Congratulations on the new saw. I have the same saw and love it!

That is different!

I always have this question, what to do next. I do not sell my work yet. I am not retired. I don't like being copy cat either. I usually try new stuff. I like to stay away from what a laser can do. Handwork is fun. Fretwork patterns I have learned to try to fit them in my next project. Bowls , cowboy hats. Intarsia / segmentation patterns are good to play with. But intarsia just hangs on a wall. I like to make stuff somewhat functional. Hour glass is an example of both art and functional. I love Franks Fine Artwork. He has the eye for elegance. Kinetic art sounds really fun. I would add motors instead of springs. But making gears is more for lasers. This is my opinion and my basic rule. I also look at stuff beyond scrollsaw projects. Can I make it with a scrollsaw? Wood turners projects don't have to be cylinders. Bottle stoppers are handles, scrollsaws can do handles. That is my summary. Please comment, add your opinions and join in the discussion. Me. Mark Eason

terrific job

Very nice. Relatively simple image that says a lot. Frame is very well done.

Those are some clean and crisp cuts, Dan. Excellent job on the frame. Wish my corners would mesh up that nicely.

Some of my Easter-themed cuttings.

I was about to say the same thing Norm. I don't think I'll whinge about Aussie prices again. I probably will but .............................

A couple of crosses I've done in the past. Need to finish up a handful of still-in-progress projects....

I cut two more toppers for Easter. The front is 1/4 Maple that was painted by my wife. All I know about the backer is that it is 1/4 but uncertain of the type. Thought it looked pretty cool with this grain. Happy Easter Village Scrollers!

Easter chicken is a Steve good pattern,and the eggs are popular.

This was my take on the Steve Good pattern. Sent it to my sister.

Zdravím vás. Jen tak pro radost jsem vyřezala.

I have been rethinking Watco brand Danish oil. Danish oil enhances grain so beautifully but it cures so slowly. I like to use a lacquer finish and current advice is wait 3-14 (or longer!) days after applying Watco Danish Oil before applying lacquer. I have a heat gun in my shop that I use to check the cure. Applying heat to causes the oil to sweat and actually causes beads of liquid oil to form on the surface. I have observed this for up to 7 days. Using heat and wiping off the liquid speeds up drying. I stumbled across an article that proposed home made Danish oil that achieves the look while drying faster. https://vanduynwoodwork.com/2018/09/18/danish-oil-finish-top-3-reasons-to-mix-your-own/ I tried this and it achieved the grain enhancement while drying in 3 days. After drying, I apply a coat or two of sealcoat shellac (unwaxed shellac). This seal coat greatly reduces spotty absorption of the lacquer (a real problem with cherry) while providing a solid base for lacquer adherence. Some cherry has porous spots that will absorb lacquer like a sponge leaving an uneven finish and requiring a ridiculous number of coats of lacquer before you build up the surface. Then you sand away most of it to get a flat coat. I have 2 pieces in the basement that have defeated me thus the hunt for a better way. Woodworkers put in waaaay too much effort to have a piece ruined during finishing.

I use this. Get it at Lowes. Don't know if it's available in CA or not.

I use paint thinner. It isn't milky and it is a lot cheaper although it does smell a bit stronger.