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These are my latest cuts, a Big Thank You to Botas Helder for sending me the patterns it’s truly appreciated. I’m going to paint them ( with my daughters help, she does art) one set is for my son in laws 50th birthday later this month. I’m not sure about a backer yet, was thinking painting 1/8 MDF black and the glue Yoda to that, I have a good idea in my mind as to what the backer should look like when finished. I’m very happy with the cuts considering this is only my 6 & 7th cuts, the big Yoda was quite challenging for me but I’m more than happy with the results. Any advice on backed is most welcome.

I finished all four on Monday. The patterns are by Harvey Blyer. The wood is 3/4" Poplar. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3R MGT blades and Pegas #1 Spiral Blades for veining. The finish is dipping in diluted Shellac. Comments welcome.

Done for a friends Birthday, I hope she likes it. An @alexfox pattern. 3mm B/B with 6mm ply backer.

Last 2 before the craft show Saturday. Both are Sue Mey patterns

Just sent this off to a good friend. She requested it for her daughter. I'd done one for her in the past and wanted another with 'birds' in the tree.

Well I am Back. I have had some Physical Problems to have taken care, and some Personal ones came with them, but I feel they are behind me now, My Wife is doing Great, she is walking with the aid of a cane. There are times I feel like I need one. lol. I just got back in my shop, so I hope to be turning out something soon. Keep me in your Prayers. It has been awhile since I saw my saw, my hands and eyes aren't what they use to be.

I recently received an order to do a Thank You gift for a graduation speaker. So I did another Montana barnwood wallhanging, with the county highlighted. One logo the speaker's alma mater Bluejay (that school is no longer in existence), and the other is Graduating class's Wildcat, which is where the speaker had his first job before moving on to becoming an amazingly successful collegiate basketball coach.

I made this guy for no one in particular, but I will probably give it to someone on a whim. I don’t paint many of my projects, but this one wouldn’t look very good unpainted. Anyway a birder friend saw it and said that studies have shown that birds shy away from houses with faces if they have eyes, so I whited out the eyes. You gotta take curb appeal under serious consideration when showing a house. Hopefully this will be Gnome Sweet Gnome for some finely feathered friends.

I personally would not hesitate to sell them. However, I would hang them for disply above the reach of small children and possibly have a sign, or a slip of paper to include with the sale, that states: "Hanging tree ornament, not a toy...Keep out of reach of small children".

Another 4 Humpty Dumpty Puzzles. If I added my Piggy ones I'd have breakfast

Most scrollers take their scrolling very serious.....perhaps we should lighten-up a bit and be silly sometime ...................... This is another example of ADDING COLOR TO SCROLLING.. The only painting was white on the edges.

Are these more or less dangerous than the glass globe ornaments still sold? Are they dangerous if used as intended? Just sell them.

It's a sad world we live in. I got my first pocket knife at 8 years. My first BB gun a year later and a .22 at 12.

In my previous post “Cube Tissue Box Cover w/ Hummingbird design” I mentioned I did not do a good job on the corners. Well, I thought I would try again, but with a different panel pattern. The design for mitered joints should work. Everything seemed to be perfect. I did my miters on the table saw very carefully and they looked about as perfect as possible. Well assembly proved to be another story. I used blue tape to form hinges to fold up the box and clamped with two Sedy strap Clamps. The Top was set into the box and clamped with squeeze Clamps. Well as you can see the joints did not closeup and gaps resulted along each joint. Not sure what went wrong, but I’m thinking I needed temporary internal bracing (square blocks) to prevent the clamping pressure from bowing the side panels. The Seahorse panel design looks nice and was an easy stack cut with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. I played with the coloration of the seahorse to get a multi-colored effect, like those in photos of Seahorses I found on-line. Well, as I originally mentioned, we have many tissue boxes around our home, so I guess I’m going to have to come up with another panel pattern and try again. I will post the Pattern in the New Pattern Announcements for your use and enjoyment. You may have better luck producing tight joints then I’m having.

Just about any wood can have hidden checks or splits in it. It could be caused by how the tree grew or how the boards were dried. Sometimes the defects are so small as to be practically invisible to the naked eye....that is until you make a delicate cut and a piece unexpectedly breaks off. I'm not sure if any one species is more or less prone to this kind of defect, at least among the common, domestic species. Imported, exotic hardwoods may be a different story. I've always considered red oak to be more easily split than other fine grained wood species. This bias is partially derived from years of splitting firewood. But I've cut some pretty delicate fretwork out of red oak and it hasn't posed any more problems than any other wood I've used. I probably wouldn't use it for delicate, 1/8" thick Christmas ornaments, but fragility in those circumstances can pose a challenge for most any hardwood. I tend to select the wood for a project based on what appearance I want and what I have on hand/available. As long as the piece being cut is 1/4" or thicker, I have no qualms about using just about any domestic hardwood.

I use oak red/white cherry walnut maple . They all have their plusses and minuses. As for my preferred it would project dependent.

Dad bough my brother and I , 5th and 4th grades, a mini bike and bb guns for christmas. his intent was for us to ride around through the desert while the kid on the back shot the bb gun at stuff. lol We did just that and loved it.

Just getting back in the shop will help you heal.

Welcome back. Life does have a way of creating unexpected detours. Bruce

Glad to hear your back with us.

Glad to hear you both are doing better and on the mend. Look forward to seeing what you do on the saw.

Glad to hear things are going better. Welcome back.

So in my family, we have 2 dogs, and 2 cats. Our pets outnumber the people in our house. With the weather getting nicer, the dogs want to spend more outside, and our cats love watching the bird feeder outside of our window. So this month's scroll saw challenge is about our furry little friends. Dogs, cats, birds, snakes, hamsters, etc. Post a pic of a project related to pets. It can be a pet portrait, dog leash holder, treat jar, or whatever. I can't wait to see what y'all come up with!

In your experience which of the hardwoods are most drop-out tolerant (least likely to break) and which are the ones you avoid. I now do most of my cutting in cherry and have found it very tolerable. Early on I was doing one of the Sheila Landry scripture plaques in walnut and suffered a drop-out failure (when I was almost done, of course ). I have not used walnut since BUT I am wondering which of the woods you prefer and avoid. Bruce

nice, they should sell no problem, RJ

SUPER WORK. Both are excellent; but, my favorite is the WOLF!

Oh they are Awesome. Love the Wolf. Good Luck at the Craft show.

It did a world of good today to go down to the shop and do some cutting. Once I have a few things done I will post them, I am not quite ready for any detailed cutting, but some simple cutting a some painting.

Oh yeah, I forgot to add oak also. I've use maple on occasion and hickory but not on my favorite list.

I use walnut, mahogany, cherry and poplar depending on the project.

Fantastic job, it's beautiful

"Not intended for use by persons under 14 years of age" I've seen stickers that state this.

Years back I made pocket knives, I would not sell them to little boys unless their parents were with them, but even then it made me nervous, It has been a few yrs since I made any knives. I was around 9 when I got my 1st Knife, 11 or 12 my 1st 22, It was a different world back then.

Cleaning through some old catch all bins and came across this Key that my aunt got me some years ago. Looks to be scroll sawn? I know I’ve seen coin cutting etc but never thought about keys.

She’ll love it. Great job!

Frank, you might want to watch this video on fixing miter joints so the gaps don't show. Tom

If I had any reservations about a product, I would not sell it. Not worth the risk. Tom

When I first started selling in person several years ago I made a bunch of knife shaped letter openers.. they was actually quite sharp.. never thought much of it until one young boy come to my table grabbed one of the letter openers and took off as fast as he could to go show his mom / dad.. I got so worked up about that that I've not done a in person show since then and also never once made another letter opener.. Totally understand how you feel about those ornaments.. I'd certainly not display them where kids could reach them if you do sell them. Kind of sad as Ray said... it's a really different world we live in these days.. sue happy folks out there and not many parents get after a child or even help teach them manors and common sense.. Heck, when I was 12 hanging out with my oldest brother that has the sawmill.. back in those days he had motors running machines without belt guards on, I was running nail guns making pallets and driving the loader to remove stacks up lumber or picking up logs and loading them on the saw deck etc..

beautiful work!

wounderful! and i think i like it even better with out the eyes

Outstanding! So glad to hear of your forward progress. Be sure to show us what you produce. Glad to have you back "in the saddle" so to speak.

Down Right Awesome!!! She should Love it.

Beautiful.. If she don't love it send it to NZ....

Hi Made this for my girlfriend she is a massive garfield fan. Original did have a clock on it but I think I might leave it like this

I use one that is smaller, its a little kids play tent from walmart. Now big enough to stand in but enough to lean in to and paint, can get my upper body in no problem. I put it on a big work table outside. Works great. Cost less than $20 and really cut down the over spray and the windy issues i was having.

terrific job

Wow, that's beautiful! The colors, the shape and the frame all work together perfectly. They'll be proud of that. I would.

I Love it. You have some Pretty Awesome work hanging back there. My Little shop you can stand at the front door and get it in a regular camera shot.

My Grand Fur babies. Marg

This is my solution for salvaging thin stock. I ran into a bunch of imperfections in the 8/4 Jatoba I was working with which would have rendered useless nearly 3 feet of 8/4 x 5" stock. After cutting away the imperfections, I ended up with 6 pieces that were 3 - 4" wide x 15.5" long. The pieces are just over 1/4" thick and trying to clamp them with traditional methods would be impossible. So, I spent the day making a clamping board. This consist of 24" x 24" x 1.5" MDF (two 3/4" pieces glued together) with formica top and a plywood bottom to reinforce the stiffness of the MDF. I used a 1 3/8 forstner bit for the holes and 1 3/8" poplar dowel for the stops. The wedges are cut from hickory with a 5 degree angle. The gluing cauls are fabricated from oak but you could just as easily use pine. The clamping cauls have one perfectly straight edge and the other edge is curved. Youtube has several videos showing how to use the clamping board and how to fabricate the cauls. The surface of the formica has a thin coat of paste wax applied. You use this device by applying the glue to the edges of your thin stock, pressing them together and then use the wedges above and below the cauls to apply pressure. You can then use a piece of scrap lumber to protect the surface of your work piece while you tap the pieces flush with each other on the surface and along the edges The multiple holes in the clamping board are to make it easy to vary the width of the panel being glued. Using multiple wedges on top allow you to easily and quickly adjust for different widths. The final picture is the finished panel as it came off the clamping board - no planing nor sanding. I have to say, after trying to do this with traditional clamps, this method makes gluing thin pieces a breeze. The flat surface of the clamping board keeps everyting registered as you clamp.