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This pattern is one FrankEV posted a month or so ago. I love this song and knew I wanted to cut it when I seen the piece Frank had shared. I used 1/4 inch oak ply for the front and a 1/4 inch underlayment material for the backer. (Less expensive and usable since it is painted and a limited amount shows.) As with most of my projects the piece is stained with Minwax Natural and has 5 coats clear gloss with light sanding between coats. In the enlarged picture it appears to have grit (or specks) in the finish but it is actually a reflection from direct sunlight. The piece is actually very smooth and clean. The backer is painted gloss black. The frame is pine stained with Minwax Red Oak. Franks was much better because of the colors he added but I'm still pleased with how this project turned out. I recently purchased some water color pencils and plan to give them a try after doing a little testing first. I started a Jim Blume "American" piece so it will probably be a while for my next "Brag."

I recently received an order to do a Thank You gift for a graduation speaker. So I did another Montana barnwood wallhanging, with the county highlighted. One logo the speaker's alma mater Bluejay (that school is no longer in existence), and the other is Graduating class's Wildcat, which is where the speaker had his first job before moving on to becoming an amazingly successful collegiate basketball coach.

Last 2 before the craft show Saturday. Both are Sue Mey patterns

Another 4 Humpty Dumpty Puzzles. If I added my Piggy ones I'd have breakfast

Please don't tell me you are going to make yourself some wooden cowboy boots.

I finished cutting this one yesterday morning. 3/4 basswood, FD Polar #1 1400 SPM. The rose slides out either direction. My intention is to glue the rose back into the piece with the top surface of the rose just proud of the oval (the thickness of a toothpick, about 5/64"). FYI I use a 1 2 3 block to square my table.

Dave, most of the puzzles I cut are from 7/8” to 1”. It is difficult to cut that thick of wood without beveling the edges. However, it is doable. The trick is to be conscious of what you are doing. All to often, we just zip through the cut without worrying about how the blade is cutting as long as you stay on the line. It is important to not push on the blade laterally. That is, when you are turning the wood into the blade. As you are cutting into a curve, stop occasionally to let the blade catch up. Sometimes, you will actually see the blade straighten up. Set your blade speed high. You might even use a larger blade. One important trick that works for me is to use a pivot point. What does that mean? When I’m cutting, I use a finger to creat a pivot. Witch ever finger is closet to the blade as you are turning the wood. Push down with that finger. As you turn the wood, it will pivot where you are pushing down. This will help keep the wood blank turning with out pushing on the side of the blade blade. larger blade, higher speed, slower feed rate and pivot point. You can do it!

Especially when I am cutting thick pieces, every few seconds I will let the piece go (gently holding so as not to lose all control) and let the piece "float" for a sec to allow any side pressure to dissipate. I've cut very small sliding dovetails in 1 1/2" purpleheart with this method. I favor FD Polar blades because they resist the side flex well.

My dog smiles a lot.......I don't have to feed him, I don't have to take him for a walk and I do not have to follow him around with a pooper-scooper. This is another example of ADDING COLOR TO SCROLLING. The only painting required was to paint the edges yellow. Art work was simply glued on. The finished results LOOKS like it was painted.

We grew up in the best of times. Sanity prevailed.

Done for a friends Birthday, I hope she likes it. An @alexfox pattern. 3mm B/B with 6mm ply backer.

I've been doing intarsia projects the last couple of days and sawing a lot of 1" lumber. If you have done any intarsia you understand the importance of a perfectly square cut. I must say that I struggle with that. Occasionally even cutting puzzles. I've checked and rechecked my blade squareness. I think my left hand puts a bit of side pressure on the wood but not totally sure. It doesn't take much to put a very slight angle on a piece. It sure is frustrating.

Well I am Back. I have had some Physical Problems to have taken care, and some Personal ones came with them, but I feel they are behind me now, My Wife is doing Great, she is walking with the aid of a cane. There are times I feel like I need one. lol. I just got back in my shop, so I hope to be turning out something soon. Keep me in your Prayers. It has been awhile since I saw my saw, my hands and eyes aren't what they use to be.

Love my boxer dogs and so this had to be my first scroll , Only basic but i like it

It's very similar to my milk crate. Lol.

When I found a similar problem, the set screw on the bottom clamp was the problem. Very small problem, but fixing it helped me.

(Said with tongue-in-cheek) Maybe make a cover (curtain) for the ornaments and a sign on it that says: ADULTS ONLY

I think 'Common Sense' was a bit more common then. We do live in a different world now.

I do feel your pain Dave. My stand up puzzles I cut from 30mm timber and some of the small boxes are 45mm. I find every now and again I have to take a deep breath and remind myself not to put pressure on the blade, let the saw do the work. I check every puzzle piece "as I cut it" that it slides nicely into it's adjoining piece from the front and the back and every now and again one is a little tight.

Sorry I can’t help, but will be waiting to see another beautiful project you do Dave, RJ

Another nice box Frank. A trick I have used to disguise RS mitres is to insert a contrasting corner. I will try to explain. I made a jig that will hold the project at 45o to my table saw. Drop the blade so it scores the corner about 4 -5mm deep then insert a piece of contrasting timber in the groove. I will try and find a picture of what I mean as I can hardly understand what i just wrote

Looking for a playmate ?

This was done for my family physician's first grandchild, a sweet baby girl, using carved fretwork techniques.

Boomer was our son's family pet

Sheila Landry pattern, cut in 5/8" Red Oak.

Just sent this off to a good friend. She requested it for her daughter. I'd done one for her in the past and wanted another with 'birds' in the tree.

I saw this on the local, Woodworkers of Houston, facebook page. It looks like a very nice shop stool but perhaps a bit pricey at $170. Adjustable Shop Stool With Casters | DEWALT. The post went on to mention a similar, if not identical, stool at Menards for $90 Masterforce® Premium Shop Stool at Menards®. I wish we had a Menards close to where I live.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092CJC6?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Accuracy and squareness on all sides within .0001"-.0002" It's a chunk of tool steel 1" x 2" x 3". Some are solid steel, others, such as mine, are drilled and tapped to allow more flexibility in jigs. Just as simple as I am. Set one on the table top, thick enough it won't fall over, and if you're looking for a 90* angle......

I have the dewalt version, I got it a few years ago when there wasn't a menards clone of it. I will say that it is a really comfy chair, I can easily sit for hours and scroll.

Nice job! Good luck at the show.

I'm surprised we still have anything made of glass, or pointed, or sharp, or.... When I was still selling tools it amazed me when seeing warning labels on things that should be obvious to anybody with more than 2 brain cells. The problems were all created by lawyers.

That turned out beautiful!

Most scrollers take their scrolling very serious.....perhaps we should lighten-up a bit and be silly sometime ...................... This is another example of ADDING COLOR TO SCROLLING.. The only painting was white on the edges.

I am glad you are back!

Great job and I love the subject. I am currently in overload for cutting fonts and am avoiding such.

great job, it's beautiful

fantastic work

very nice job

Great job on the lettering! Ya done good!!!

Well done, your friend will be over the moon with it.

In my previous post “Cube Tissue Box Cover w/ Hummingbird design” I mentioned I did not do a good job on the corners. Well, I thought I would try again, but with a different panel pattern. The design for mitered joints should work. Everything seemed to be perfect. I did my miters on the table saw very carefully and they looked about as perfect as possible. Well assembly proved to be another story. I used blue tape to form hinges to fold up the box and clamped with two Sedy strap Clamps. The Top was set into the box and clamped with squeeze Clamps. Well as you can see the joints did not closeup and gaps resulted along each joint. Not sure what went wrong, but I’m thinking I needed temporary internal bracing (square blocks) to prevent the clamping pressure from bowing the side panels. The Seahorse panel design looks nice and was an easy stack cut with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. I played with the coloration of the seahorse to get a multi-colored effect, like those in photos of Seahorses I found on-line. Well, as I originally mentioned, we have many tissue boxes around our home, so I guess I’m going to have to come up with another panel pattern and try again. I will post the Pattern in the New Pattern Announcements for your use and enjoyment. You may have better luck producing tight joints then I’m having.

Oh I do like that one Frank, I love sea horses. Fabulous work. Marg

Very nice. Well done. Marg

Good to see you back scrolling again Brenda. Fabulous work. Marg

I understand exactly what you do. I used to have a jig like that to make corner joint splines but it was left behind, with many other items and jigs I had, when I moved to Florida some 8 years ago. Never thought I was going to need any of them again. Just might have to make your version for small boxes like I make now. Thanks

Just about any wood can have hidden checks or splits in it. It could be caused by how the tree grew or how the boards were dried. Sometimes the defects are so small as to be practically invisible to the naked eye....that is until you make a delicate cut and a piece unexpectedly breaks off. I'm not sure if any one species is more or less prone to this kind of defect, at least among the common, domestic species. Imported, exotic hardwoods may be a different story. I've always considered red oak to be more easily split than other fine grained wood species. This bias is partially derived from years of splitting firewood. But I've cut some pretty delicate fretwork out of red oak and it hasn't posed any more problems than any other wood I've used. I probably wouldn't use it for delicate, 1/8" thick Christmas ornaments, but fragility in those circumstances can pose a challenge for most any hardwood. I tend to select the wood for a project based on what appearance I want and what I have on hand/available. As long as the piece being cut is 1/4" or thicker, I have no qualms about using just about any domestic hardwood.

Are these more or less dangerous than the glass globe ornaments still sold? Are they dangerous if used as intended? Just sell them.

I personally would not hesitate to sell them. However, I would hang them for disply above the reach of small children and possibly have a sign, or a slip of paper to include with the sale, that states: "Hanging tree ornament, not a toy...Keep out of reach of small children".

Cleaning through some old catch all bins and came across this Key that my aunt got me some years ago. Looks to be scroll sawn? I know I’ve seen coin cutting etc but never thought about keys.

You almost got me in trouble Charlie. I thought that this was such good idea, I'd take a shot of the shed for people, but then I realised I'd better take down a couple of calendars 1st