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I decided to try bevel cutting the "fossil" pattern by Steve Good. Then I decided to take it up a notch. Instead of clear coating or staining I sprayed it with "stone" paint to give it more of a look of being excavated from rock.

I showed this pattern to my wife and she said she would like one for your front room wall, so here is the results of it. This is a JGR pattern and it might be a perfect pattern for someone who has been thinking about making an intarsia piece but strays away because they are not sure they could make one. Give this one a try if you even thinking you might like to try it. You can do it. Dick heppnerguy

Hi All, I have finished the plates I was cutting for my daughter. I did one of each from WayneMahler and TDpainter and she loves them both. She won't get them until after the Craft Fair we holding at the Kirkcaldy Men's Shed on Saturday where I am hoping to drum up some interest (and raise much needed funds). Don W PS BTW the plates are for my new Great Grand Son.

One of my neighbors has a '67 Camaro that is in beautiful condition but is considering selling it. Found a pattern in the pattern library and started cutting. I'll give it to him next week.

Hi all. I've been posting a few articles in the Articles section and tutorials in the Project Workshop section recently. These were generously provided by SSV members. I think they're really cool. I found a pretty good process of converting these articles to SSV, so I thought I'd put a callout for anybody who wants to submit an article. I'd love to build up our Articles and Project Workshop library. The goal is to make SSV a great resource for all scrollers. Here's a quick breakdown of article types and requirements. It's actually pretty easy. I just need your expertise, and I'll make it look pretty when I post them. Articles Articles can be anything scroll saw related. We're always looking for tutorials on techniques, references. beginner articles, advanced tutorials, finishing techniques, etc. The goal is education and sharing information that is useful for new and seasoned scrollers alike. We want these to feel like a magazine article. Don't worry, you don't have to be an amazing author. Goodness knows I'm not. But we do want it to read like an article with complete sentences and thoroughly explained. Articles can be presented in step-by-step method too, if that is more appropriate. Pictures are worth 1000 words. We want to illustrate what we're talking about the best we can. So please include photos or other illustrations that reinforce what you are discussing. I can crop and color correct photos when I post the article. Most phones takes really great pictures, so don't feel like you have to have an amazing camera. Look through our Articles section for some inspiration and how we have created other articles. Project Workshop Project Workshop is reserved for specific projects, not broad subjects. For example, we're making a farm tractor toy. The idea is someone can follow the instructions step-by-step to make this project. These should be presented in step-by-step format. Each step should have a photo showing that step. Please include a pattern where possible. (Note: Pattern downloads for project workshop is limited to SSV Patrons) Include 2 or 3 photos of the final project to include for the conclusion. Look through our Project Workshop for some inspiration and how we format our tutorials. How To Deliver: Please make sure the article you submit was written by you and they're your photos. I can't post articles from other people or books, even if they're out of print. It's a copyright thing, and I don't want lawyers on my lawn. Keep in mind copyrights when putting together Project Workshop tutorials. We can't make sports teams, or other licensed/copyrighted/trademarked projects. I can convert 2 types of documents easily: Microsoft Word document. You can PM or email me a Microsoft Word document. Google Document You can send me a link to the Google document by clicking the "Share" button in the upper right corner, then enter my email address (listed below) Alternatively, you can click the "Share" button in the upper right corner. Then click "Copy Link" and send me the link via PM or email. When you create your document, please embed your images into the document so I know where your pictures should go in the article. You can also send me the text and images separately through email or PM. I'll convert your article, crop photos, and make nice banners. You will receive credit as the author. My contact info. PM: @Travis Email: travis[at]scrollsawvillage.com

Sheila Landry pattern, cut in 5/8" Red Oak.

Farm - my new project and pattern. Making this pattern took more time than usual - I wanted to make view of classic farm scene. I have never been at such place, but I looked through many photos in the Internet and came to this conclusion: it should contains barn, tractor, windmill and granary. I didnt added animals, because pattern consists of many small details, maybe later I will make one more similar pattern (barn with animals). Aslo I made 2 variant of size: 10,5 х 5 inches and enlarged 15,5 х 7,5 inches (pattern includes both sizes). I hope it looks natural, what do you think? Video of making Farm Farm pattern

Done for a friends Birthday, I hope she likes it. An @alexfox pattern. 3mm B/B with 6mm ply backer.

Cherry, hard Maple, on occasion Spanish cedar. I do not like red oak,(too grainy for my taste) I literally watched a fretwork basket self destruct while doing a presentation at FC a few years ago. The dramatic humidity change.

Oak, cherry, walnut, poplar, ash, cedar what ever I can get. I seem to burn cherry when I use it. I guess I go to slow with it.

Thanks Ray. The Wood Database says, among other things, "Not commonly imported to North America."

I have done a fair amount of work with Jatoba wood which US wood dealers usually refer to as Brazilian Cherry. (It has nothing to do with cherry other than the fact it is reddish in color.) It is the most drop-out resistant wood I have used to date. The downside is that it is the hardest and heaviest wood I have ever used. Resawing it on my bandsaw is an extremely slow process and if you try to hurry that you can break the bandsaw blade. Likewise scrolling requires more frequent blade changes. When it is finished it makes a beautiful plaque.

Well I have been down to my shop these last few day's. Man does it feel Fantastic. been busy as a beaver. I made a Regiment plaque for a fellow Veteran, and some Butterflies, I especially like the Tiger Face one. Looking forward to doing more.

Cut from 1/4BB and backed with1/8BB I used Aspen for the frame and added the inlays. I also used my spline jig for the first time and used purple heart for the splines. The addition of the splines was easier than I thought-I will probably use them more. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.

I grew up on a farm and you have done an excellent job on this.

but you do your cutting with such skill that the pattern maker has to be very pleased, not only that you choose his or her pattern to cut, but that you make the pattern even better because of the time and skill your put into it. Dick heppnerguy

This is one that you could do and finish without it even taking you very much time. I do enjoy the end results of intarsia a lot but not to enthusiastic at the time it takes me. Dick heppnerguy

Actually when I started my wood hobby, I started with making intarsia projects only. After a few years of doing that, I got kind of tired of doing them and turned to scrolling, once I realized that scrolling was more than a simple outline of an animal or something similar. I enjoyed the fact that scrolling a project could be done in an hour or less instead of 4 days it takes my to do most intarsia projects. I have several intarsia patterns I have never cut so I turned to those again, just for a change of pace. Never was very good at intarsia and I was too cheep to buy specialty woods for doing them. I still like the end results though. Dick heppnerguy

I like them!

Great job on your cutting and your friend will love it and you for doing it for her! Erv

Beautiful job all around and the inlay on the frame is just right! Any other projects that you do with the idea of inlay on the frame, you won't go wrong by doing it like this one! Great job! Erv

Great job and as others have said, very doable intarsia pattern as you have proved! Erv

Blaughn , Your sign is absolutely stunning! What font did you use?

WOW somebody just got lot’s of BROWNIE appoints. Great job Dick

very nice job, I watched a you-tube video of someone making the same thing.

very nice

Lovely piece. I may try this some day as it does look doable.

Love it. Excellent work Dick. Marg

Great job!

Beautiful work!

Awesome job Dick. I'm sure your wife loves it.

Amazing, I've tried intarsia a couple of times, never finished for many reasons. This pattern however might be doable for me. Thanks for sharing, again beautiful piece. Chris

You're really getting into the intarsia, Dick. That turned out great. I'm sure she will surprised.

Aww, Bless you for those kind words. I do love scrolling, although I think the pattern maker should take credit for the most of it, I just cut it out.

Really nice, you chose well on the wood colors!

That is super, Dick. Fit and shaping perfect. What woods did you use?

Thanks Dick. The USAF sold during Strawberry Festival.

Your are correct, practice does make it easier. Also, I find cutting thicker wood helps at least it does for me.

My latest project done!

This pattern is one FrankEV posted a month or so ago. I love this song and knew I wanted to cut it when I seen the piece Frank had shared. I used 1/4 inch oak ply for the front and a 1/4 inch underlayment material for the backer. (Less expensive and usable since it is painted and a limited amount shows.) As with most of my projects the piece is stained with Minwax Natural and has 5 coats clear gloss with light sanding between coats. In the enlarged picture it appears to have grit (or specks) in the finish but it is actually a reflection from direct sunlight. The piece is actually very smooth and clean. The backer is painted gloss black. The frame is pine stained with Minwax Red Oak. Franks was much better because of the colors he added but I'm still pleased with how this project turned out. I recently purchased some water color pencils and plan to give them a try after doing a little testing first. I started a Jim Blume "American" piece so it will probably be a while for my next "Brag."

Marg, I really enjoyed both of your projects here. The Gnomes are so dang cute and the foot one is so delightful. Thanks for posting so we all can enjoy viewing them Dick heppnerguy

The Gnomes are nice-I ought to do some for presents this year.

Marg, Love The Gnomes. Fantastic work. I have been wanting to do Gnomes for sometime, but I always get sidetracked. Love your work.

It was a typo. Should have been apitong. He never talked about it in any of his videos. I contacted him and asked about the wood he used in many of his projects. He wrote back to me and explained that a friend gives him lots of scraps from whatever they use it for in Japan. Sorry.

I tried to find some information about apitoa wood and could not find anything. It is not in the Wood Database. A web search comes up with amusing substitutions but nothing on the wood. The attempted web search makes its best guess and comes up with "Apito" which is a musical instrument and "Apitito" which is a restaurant POS system. Then when I search for "Apitoa wood" it changes it to "patio wood". I concede defeat. Which of the OHYO56 videos discuss the apitoa wood?

This is an Alex Fox design that I modified slightly to hold keys. Hard Maple and Walnut. Chris

My little buddy, Rocky, long hair apple head chihuahua, follows me everywhere though never gets under my feet.

The original designer wants to control how their patterns are distributed. When they upload a pattern to SSV, it's saying it is a gift to the members of SSV. But I'm sure they'd be upset if that file is being shared among FB, other forums, other websites and blogs without their knowledge or consent. So, if it's not a pattern you designed yourself, you should point them to the place they can download it for themselves. Granted, on SSV, they have to be a member (membership is free) to access the Pattern Library. But I don't think that's too much to ask, especially if they're getting access to 5,000+ free scroll saw patterns. We limit access to the Pattern Library to members, because a few years back, we ran into someone on EBay stealing our patterns and reselling them. When I complained, they said it was Free and they can do whatever they want. I eventually got Ebay to intervene and shut down the theft. At any rate, sharing a link to where they can download the pattern themselves is the best approach.

The common courtesy that I try to follow is to share a direct link to where a pattern can be found if I can. If I can’t find the direct link, I would try to give a link back as best I can so here to the Village in general if I knew that was where I had found it. So, For example, if it’s a JGR pattern (or another one I had purchased somewhere), I would share the direct link to the pattern so it can be purchased. If I couldn’t give the direct link, I would give the link to her home page. I would do the same even when the pattern has been shared for free somewhere. For example, if it’s a Steve Good pattern, I would first try to find the original blog post where he shared the pattern and provide the direct link back to it. If I couldn’t easily find it, I would provide a link back to his home page of his blog. in this instance, I would do as you did, say where I had gotten the original pattern from, the Scrollsaw Village website, and then provide a direct link back to where it can be found here. (I signed out and checked and you would need to be a member and signed in to access patterns shared it looks like so they would need to join to be able to see and download.) So, for the pattern in question here, I would post a link back to it here and note you would need to be a member or join in order to see and download from here: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/44200-two-heads-and-entwined-bodies-pdfs/ However, since in this instance, I also happen to know that Frankorona actually first made and shared the original Image that FrankEV used to made the pattern from, I would also share that note with the link to the pattern thread indicating such so he was acknowledged as the source for the image and photo Frank used to make the pattern from (as Frank noted when he first shared his own photos of the piece he cut here): https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/44162-two-heads/#comment-475942 And this next thread is where Frankorona first shared his images the month prior (noting he used photo from the internet, so not his original image either ) and from which Frank made the pattern from (because Frankorona didn’t have an actual pattern to share, just his photo but gave Frank permission to create the pattern.) https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/44050-modernist-figures/#comment-474724 In this instance, sharing those three links may seem excessive to some, but to me, it’s all needed to give proper credit to Frankorona for first sharing his photo of his work, then giving Frank permission to use his photo to create his own version and to then share the pattern Frank created with members of the village. I feel it is important to give proper credit so in this particular instance, that credit would be to both Frankorona and then Frank. Normally, it would not be quite so “complicated” however. The only time I might “share” directly would be if someone had given specific permission to post and share elsewhere on the pattern it’s self. (I have seen this done). However, even then I would still attempt to give a link back if I could. Since the patterns shared here are shared by members for members of the village, in my humble opinion, I would not post one I downloaded from here somewhere else or pass it on to someone but would point them back to where they could find it just as I would if it was a pattern I had purchased.