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Hello everyone, I redid wolf for the second time, but it's the last time. Frame or no frame? That is the question! Eric

Next week my great grandson will be celebrating his 2nd birthday and he is so excited about dinosaurs. So I talked with his mom and ask her if she thought he would like a room plaque with his name and a dinosaur on it. She told me he would be so excited to have one. I saw a post of someone's dino plaque and liked the way he designed it so I sort of took off on his fun idea and made this one. I used a different dinosaur so that it would not be an exact copy of his and I painted it to stand out a little more. I am pleased with this one and it only took about 15 minutes to cut it out. so, easy it was and hopefully it will bring a smile or two to his face. Dick heppnerguy

I cut a lot of stand up puzzles using various hardwoods from 3/4” to 1”. I use a #3 Flying Dutchman Polar blade for these. I use a 50/50 mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits to bring out the color and grain. Then when dry, usually in 24 hours, I’ll spray a topcoat of spray lacquer. I used to use Deft lacquer, but I can’t find it anymore. So I use minwax spray lacquer found at Lowes. It comes in satin, semi gloss and gloss. I like the semi gloss. Two coats is good for me with no issues assembling or taking apart the pieces.

Weather has not been the best for golf so I decided to cut a few bowls. A dear friend of mine came for a visit andI showed her the bowls and she bought both of them right away. So I lost my bowls LOL

Try spray lacquer. Hard, clear, shinny or satin and not a very thick build up, so it should not interfere with puzzle assembly.

No I do not. Disassemble the puzzle before you spray. Two lite coats, 30 minutes apart. Let the puzzle dry before you put it together. One consideration is I am in Southern California, we don’t have the humidity you have in Florida, so that might be an issue. You may have to wait longer to let the lacquer to dry.

@Travis, thanks for all you do for the scrolling community here. there is a thread here in the village, from back in 2017 (has it really been that long ) that talked about compound cutting. Several of our members here gave a lot of good information and details in that thread that would be a great compilation perhaps for an article. CharleyL gave a pretty detail description post referencing that free compound reindeer as an example, but there is a lot of helpful tips and tricks from several sprinkled through out the thread. It was quite helpful to me and was the encouragement I needed back then to give compound cutting a try. It might be a good “article” that could be fairly easily compiled from that thread. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/24171-compound-cutting-wood/#comment-262796 several people in that thread also wanted to know how one creates a compound cut pattern. I have never seen anyone explain how that is done, so if anyone knows and can explain, it too would be a great resource for an article. just throwing couple ideas out there.

Thought i posted this the other day. If dupe, please remove... I'm on the hunt for a new finish for the puzzles I make. I currently follow the @Iguanadon school of puzzle making and finishing (Food grade mineral oil + 1 or 2 coats Shellac). I use water colors and food dyes on various puzzles for coloring, but that does not provide for a nice finish and end up spraying them with shellac The finish was fine for the longest time, but I would like to try a different finish. Something more "shiny" that won't impede putting the puzzle together. I've used spray Acrylic, poly urethane (spar as well) on other projects but for puzzles the finish is too thick. Does anyone know of another medium that I can try that would give the wood a nice sheen without interfering with the puzzle pieces? Thanks as always in advance

Well I have been down to my shop these last few day's. Man does it feel Fantastic. been busy as a beaver. I made a Regiment plaque for a fellow Veteran, and some Butterflies, I especially like the Tiger Face one. Looking forward to doing more.

One of my neighbors has a '67 Camaro that is in beautiful condition but is considering selling it. Found a pattern in the pattern library and started cutting. I'll give it to him next week.

This was a request from my cousin for her new granddaughter. I did not think I would be able to get all the name letters she wanted on this pattern but she would not take no for answer. I had no recourse's but to give it a try and hope I would be able to get it all in place and be able to cut it all. As you can see, I was forced to not leave any gap between a couple of the letters so I was not sure I would not have a breakout as a result. I held my breath, said a prayer and BINGO, I was able to get it all done. I would have preferred a blue or pink background for a baby cross, depending on the sex of the new born, but my cousin wanted it to be black, so I complied with my customer and made it as demanded. I am ok with this pattern, except I find it rather difficult to find a package to mail it in because it is so broad. Dick heppnerguy

I decided to try bevel cutting the "fossil" pattern by Steve Good. Then I decided to take it up a notch. Instead of clear coating or staining I sprayed it with "stone" paint to give it more of a look of being excavated from rock.

Unless the cutting is constructed as a Plaque, It is my opinion, all portrait type panels that will hang in an environment other that a shop, need an aprropriate Frame, That well done Wolf cutting would look great on an oversized backer about a inch larger than the cut panel all around in a nice rustic/distresssed Frame having rails about 1 3/4 wide.

I have used many of the popular brands of rattle can spray in both clear gloss and satin (most often Gloss), Minwax being the most readily available almost everywhere. However, I am a fan of Deft Brand that I get at my local Ace Hardware. The cans do not clog, drys very quickly with little blushing, lays fairly smooth needing only a very light sanding with 1500 grit paper after the initinal coat with no or very little sanding needed after additional coats and enhances wood color while not adding any yellowing, like poly does. I dont have the ability to use a spray gun these days but did when I had my shop in NC where I also use DEFT brand bulk Lacquer. Used it often for furniture pieces. I will occasionaly use a lacquer sanding sealer on solid wood projects that need a sanding and shaping, especially on softer woods, although most often on even Hard Maple. For Black Lacquer the only brand I can find it in locally is Krylon, but not too happy about the final finish. Tends to run and/or not cover with a nice uniform coat. As and aside, I prefer Wipe-on Poly to spray poly. Using a fine grit paper to apply and rub in the WO, I get get very rich smooth poly finish w/o the thick apperance that make things look like flooring. I hope this info helps.

If you read my first reply, I state that I use minwax semi gloss spray lacquer. I disagree that the term lacquer is a catchall. Lacquer is lacquer.

However, my point is because it makes the puzzle too tight your way, my way should loosen it just enough. You won’t know until you try.

Frank, I really not trying to be difficult (although I am). Which lacquer (brand and type specific, please) are you using? In the current market the term "lacquer" is a catchall that includes many variations. What you are using may be very different than what others may find on the shelves.

Jes, have you considered spraying the puzzles before cutting them apart? This would give you the sheen you want without binding the pieces.

A large pizza box works great for shipping that type of project. Get a clean from your local pizza place for next to nothing. Btw...nice work

You don't find the Lacquer causes the pieces to stick together? I've used lacquer in the past and the puzzle pieces were too difficult to get apart and put back.

That's what I do now. Looking for a different finish than shellac

I don't do puzzles but I top coat most everything I make. after danish oil I spray a coat or 2 of Zinnser's spray shellac. Give it a try.

Danish oil works. It does not give a high shine. My only suggestion is use a slightly larger blade.

I find Spraying Urethane of any sheen impedes the puzzle pieces. Did you not find that as well when you did them?

Really wish I could help ya, Sorry. I haven't done a puzzle is quit some time. And when I did i used a Spray urethane.

That’s beautiful, RJ

28 degrees

Thanks Travis, I like your helpful ways to keep this family together and I do really appreciate all the work you do for us.

i don't know what we would do without you, you make a great home for all of us, RJ

Thanks Travis. I look forward to spending some time with the articles.

Yes, thanks are in order for all you do.

Thank you very much for your continuous efforts and for all you do for us.

Thanks so much for what you do.

Thanks, Charley for all that info. I always have trouble cutting reindeer out. I cut 3D ornaments with no problem but reindeer gives me trouble. I will try again with all the info all you guys left. Thanks.

Thanks for all your positive comments, but since I work completely alone, running a camera as well as a scroll saw or other woodworking tools at the same time is quite difficult, My video camera died it's last death several years ago (repaired several times) and I haven't, yet, replaced it. I'll try to take a few still shots showing various stages of the reindeer production process and post them soon. If you try compound cutting and have problems, please post your questions and I'll do my best to answer them. My original reindeer pattern came from www.woodgears.com, because of all of the reindeer patterns that I could find, I like this one best, but I have cleaned up the original pattern a bit to make them easier for me to cut, and came up with four different sizes, the largest being a little over 3 1/4" tall (close to the original pattern size) and the smallest just a little over 1" tall. I also occasionally cut two middle sizes (the Mrs. and teen daughter). The middle sized ones usually get a brooch pin glued to one side of their body so they can be worn. The smallest get a hole drilled through their head just below their antlers and I install a ring and an ear hook, making a pierced ear ring from them. I make them in left/right pairs, so when used, both reindeer face forward. These tiny ones are made from hard maple, because making them from softer woods usually results in them falling apart before I finish cutting them. The other three larger sizes cut Ok using pine or poplar, but I have made some from soft maple and ambrosia maple too. I am making reindeer again for this coming Christmas Season, and I have already given away a few, with my present total count for this year of all sizes being 127. I've lost count, but I am certain that I've made well over 3,000 reindeer since I began making them annually. I never sell anything that I make, so my usual rule for giving one to someone is that they need to help me in some small way during the Christmas Season in order to receive one. Any waitress, cashier, sales person, nurse, doctor, etc. is offered one after they help me in some way. They mostly go to girls and women, because most men want no part of them, unless they too are woodworkers and can appreciate what it takes to make them. Most people have never even seen any compound cut scroll saw work before and think that I carve them. Charley

Thanks for the info.

Unfortunately a larger blade does not give the detail of the puzzle for which our customers have become familiar. Larger blade would equate to larger gaps between the pieces - not an option for us.