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Hello everyone, I redid wolf for the second time, but it's the last time. Frame or no frame? That is the question! Eric

The first Saturday at my local weekly market for the year was yesterday and sales were very good. I got a custom request for a triple dog leash rack. I've done several 2 dog versions, but this is the first triple. I definitely didn't charge enough. LOL Step 1 - Design, sizing, layout - DONE Step 2 - Outline cut - DONE Step 3 - Holes drilled - DONE Step 4 - Finished the most tedious of the 3 dogs... two more to go. Last photo is a sample of a 2 dog version I've done, I get requests for those now and again.

Next week my great grandson will be celebrating his 2nd birthday and he is so excited about dinosaurs. So I talked with his mom and ask her if she thought he would like a room plaque with his name and a dinosaur on it. She told me he would be so excited to have one. I saw a post of someone's dino plaque and liked the way he designed it so I sort of took off on his fun idea and made this one. I used a different dinosaur so that it would not be an exact copy of his and I painted it to stand out a little more. I am pleased with this one and it only took about 15 minutes to cut it out. so, easy it was and hopefully it will bring a smile or two to his face. Dick heppnerguy

I decided to try bevel cutting the "fossil" pattern by Steve Good. Then I decided to take it up a notch. Instead of clear coating or staining I sprayed it with "stone" paint to give it more of a look of being excavated from rock.

I use a lot of Watco spray lacquer. Come in about 4 sheens and depending on the surface, will build a surface quickly. (First coat is ALWAYS sacrifical)

@John B is right about sanding between coats. I am working on a commission piece and chose shellac as the finish. I have put about 4 coats on now and sanded between each. What I did though was started at 400 for the first 2 coats which leveled the surface. Then switched to 600 for the next 2 coats. The finish comes out glossy with out looking like plastic. Although shellac alone offers very little long term protection but adding a coat of paste wax and final buffing helps protect it a little more. Currently I am using Zinsser spray shellac and dries pretty quick between sanding and coats.

So as not to hijack another post, I'm starting a new one. Recently I did a deep dive into what is actually in "lacquer, I was looking at the various brands at the Ace Hardware website (I had to go into the MSDS to find the stuff) and here is what I found. In the current world of finishing, Lacquer is a catchall for a hard surface coating that may or may not contain; shellac, polyurethane, nitrocellulose acrylic, enamel, epoxy, and/or other ingredients and/or may require sanding between coats. If you are looking for a new finish coating you may need to explore different brands to see if a particular one works for you. I am still trying to find a way to give a gloss coating for the "name and a rose" items that I am making. Polyurethane needs to be sanded in between coat and there's just no way to do that (maybe, I'm going to try an "air eraser" from HF, I'll post after I've tried it) in a timely manner. Also all the non spray coatings now have instructions that state "do not thin", I believe this has more to do with VOC rules than actual use. I am asking that if you post about a particular finish that works for you, add the brand name and if you are thinning a product, what you are thinning it with. Thanks.

Well I have been down to my shop these last few day's. Man does it feel Fantastic. been busy as a beaver. I made a Regiment plaque for a fellow Veteran, and some Butterflies, I especially like the Tiger Face one. Looking forward to doing more.

Cut from 1/4BB and backed with1/8BB I used Aspen for the frame and added the inlays. I also used my spline jig for the first time and used purple heart for the splines. The addition of the splines was easier than I thought-I will probably use them more. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.

Toy box for nephews dog

I've only used lacquer once on a special project and was advised that Deft was the best in aerosol. I used the semi-gloss and was very happy with it. A top coat, quick sanding with 400 and a second coat.

Thanks for the recommendation, the local library has a title for Flexner, I'll pick it up tomorrow. It's probably about furniture but it will help (I need information about deep, 1/2" +, fretwork).

I also use Zinsser been using it for years.

If you want to learn about finishing, look for books by Bob Flexner and Michael Dresdner.

I use Danish oil in a Ziploc bag and then wipe excess off. I use two coats and let thoroughly dry. After dry, I use a Butchers wax and a buffing wheel on my drill press. Gives a nice look and feel to the pieces.

I use a gloss lacquer on all of my toys and puzzles. This gives the best protection, while being quick drying and also allowing the puzzle/toy etc to be wiped over with a damp cloth if it should ever require it.

All most all finishes require sanding between coats to achieve a good smooth or gloss finish. It is not only to give tooth to the following layer, but also to remove any blemishes etc in the lower layer. As to my understanding, Lacquer requires thinners to thin and clean, not metho or turps or water.

Have ya tried Kevin’s recipe of beeswax and mineral oil? It’s one of my two favorite finishes. Shiny? No. However, this finish gives a “deep” luster. Easy to apply and very forgiving. I apply it with a brush or by hand, use a hair dryer to get it in the nooks and crannies, and then hand rub the piece. I use it on all of the puzzles that I make that are not painted. An added plus, is that it is a good lotion for dry hands. (Big smile). My other favorite finish that you might want to try is Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Again, it’s not shiny, but will give a deep luster. This finish will definitely make the grain “pop”.

Sheila Landry pattern, cut in 5/8" Red Oak.

Nice work. I have cut a number of plaques form Sheila Landry's site. They are well designed and fun to work with. Bruce

Hey everyone! In this scroll saw project video I show you all how I make "Custom" compound cut keychains on the Scroll Saw using the Steve Good Keychain Generator program! Hope you all like the video! Here is the link; #ArtisanPirate

I believe a frame adds a lot to a piece. I don't, however, think a separate picture type frame is always necessarily. Some pieces are great with just a backer board extended a 1/2 inch all the way around and painted or stained works quite well. It is a matter of preference. I also believe a pattern without any frame or extended backer board is not usually a very good idea as it needs some kind of contrast. The exception might be something that has a lot of fret work and itself can stand alone, sometimes. Dick heppnerguy

Unless the cutting is constructed as a Plaque, It is my opinion, all portrait type panels that will hang in an environment other that a shop, need an aprropriate Frame, That well done Wolf cutting would look great on an oversized backer about a inch larger than the cut panel all around in a nice rustic/distresssed Frame having rails about 1 3/4 wide.

I have used many of the popular brands of rattle can spray in both clear gloss and satin (most often Gloss), Minwax being the most readily available almost everywhere. However, I am a fan of Deft Brand that I get at my local Ace Hardware. The cans do not clog, drys very quickly with little blushing, lays fairly smooth needing only a very light sanding with 1500 grit paper after the initinal coat with no or very little sanding needed after additional coats and enhances wood color while not adding any yellowing, like poly does. I dont have the ability to use a spray gun these days but did when I had my shop in NC where I also use DEFT brand bulk Lacquer. Used it often for furniture pieces. I will occasionaly use a lacquer sanding sealer on solid wood projects that need a sanding and shaping, especially on softer woods, although most often on even Hard Maple. For Black Lacquer the only brand I can find it in locally is Krylon, but not too happy about the final finish. Tends to run and/or not cover with a nice uniform coat. As and aside, I prefer Wipe-on Poly to spray poly. Using a fine grit paper to apply and rub in the WO, I get get very rich smooth poly finish w/o the thick apperance that make things look like flooring. I hope this info helps.

If you read my first reply, I state that I use minwax semi gloss spray lacquer. I disagree that the term lacquer is a catchall. Lacquer is lacquer.

However, my point is because it makes the puzzle too tight your way, my way should loosen it just enough. You won’t know until you try.

Jes, have you considered spraying the puzzles before cutting them apart? This would give you the sheen you want without binding the pieces.

This is an Alex Fox design that I modified slightly to hold keys. Hard Maple and Walnut. Chris

I knowI am late but I just joined the end of April and just figured out how to add photos I THINK????? Lol Here is my late Easter project. It is an easter basket and the bunny is standing on a basket. Another example of adding color to scrolling...the only painting was to the edges of the bunny. Artwork was glued to the front, back and around the basket. HAPPY EASTER

Looking for a playmate ?

No, I have not even considered doing it this way. Wouldn't the finish dull/stick to the blade?

Frank, I really not trying to be difficult (although I am). Which lacquer (brand and type specific, please) are you using? In the current market the term "lacquer" is a catchall that includes many variations. What you are using may be very different than what others may find on the shelves.