Leaderboard

Done with the technique shown by @john nelson. Saved me so much work and the girls are happy with it. 8"x5" I'm doing 10 of them, one for each table.

The first Saturday at my local weekly market for the year was yesterday and sales were very good. I got a custom request for a triple dog leash rack. I've done several 2 dog versions, but this is the first triple. I definitely didn't charge enough. LOL Step 1 - Design, sizing, layout - DONE Step 2 - Outline cut - DONE Step 3 - Holes drilled - DONE Step 4 - Finished the most tedious of the 3 dogs... two more to go. Last photo is a sample of a 2 dog version I've done, I get requests for those now and again.

I posted this on the FB Scroll saw woodworking group. If you want a quick project that will amuse most that see it. this a quick one to make. Balancing Skateboard.mp4

Hey everyone! In this scroll saw project video I make a beautiful Train Themed Desk Clock for my Train Room out of a beautiful piece of oak wood. The pattern is available on Scroll Saw Village, hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

Next week my great grandson will be celebrating his 2nd birthday and he is so excited about dinosaurs. So I talked with his mom and ask her if she thought he would like a room plaque with his name and a dinosaur on it. She told me he would be so excited to have one. I saw a post of someone's dino plaque and liked the way he designed it so I sort of took off on his fun idea and made this one. I used a different dinosaur so that it would not be an exact copy of his and I painted it to stand out a little more. I am pleased with this one and it only took about 15 minutes to cut it out. so, easy it was and hopefully it will bring a smile or two to his face. Dick heppnerguy

Yes it is true for Lacquer. I never sand between coats of lacquer. If there are any dust nibs after the second coat dries, I polish them off with a folded piece of brown paper bag. It’s like 1500 grit sand paper but leaves no scratches. Otherwise, you do not have to sand between coats or after. I have been using this method for over twenty years.

Toy box for nephews dog

I cut that one as soon as it appeared along with the bird that balances by its beck. It is a quick cut for sure! Good job on yours with the added colors! Erv

One of my neighbors has a '67 Camaro that is in beautiful condition but is considering selling it. Found a pattern in the pattern library and started cutting. I'll give it to him next week.

So as not to hijack another post, I'm starting a new one. Recently I did a deep dive into what is actually in "lacquer, I was looking at the various brands at the Ace Hardware website (I had to go into the MSDS to find the stuff) and here is what I found. In the current world of finishing, Lacquer is a catchall for a hard surface coating that may or may not contain; shellac, polyurethane, nitrocellulose acrylic, enamel, epoxy, and/or other ingredients and/or may require sanding between coats. If you are looking for a new finish coating you may need to explore different brands to see if a particular one works for you. I am still trying to find a way to give a gloss coating for the "name and a rose" items that I am making. Polyurethane needs to be sanded in between coat and there's just no way to do that (maybe, I'm going to try an "air eraser" from HF, I'll post after I've tried it) in a timely manner. Also all the non spray coatings now have instructions that state "do not thin", I believe this has more to do with VOC rules than actual use. I am asking that if you post about a particular finish that works for you, add the brand name and if you are thinning a product, what you are thinning it with. Thanks.

Hi all. I've been posting a few articles in the Articles section and tutorials in the Project Workshop section recently. These were generously provided by SSV members. I think they're really cool. I found a pretty good process of converting these articles to SSV, so I thought I'd put a callout for anybody who wants to submit an article. I'd love to build up our Articles and Project Workshop library. The goal is to make SSV a great resource for all scrollers. Here's a quick breakdown of article types and requirements. It's actually pretty easy. I just need your expertise, and I'll make it look pretty when I post them. Articles Articles can be anything scroll saw related. We're always looking for tutorials on techniques, references. beginner articles, advanced tutorials, finishing techniques, etc. The goal is education and sharing information that is useful for new and seasoned scrollers alike. We want these to feel like a magazine article. Don't worry, you don't have to be an amazing author. Goodness knows I'm not. But we do want it to read like an article with complete sentences and thoroughly explained. Articles can be presented in step-by-step method too, if that is more appropriate. Pictures are worth 1000 words. We want to illustrate what we're talking about the best we can. So please include photos or other illustrations that reinforce what you are discussing. I can crop and color correct photos when I post the article. Most phones takes really great pictures, so don't feel like you have to have an amazing camera. Look through our Articles section for some inspiration and how we have created other articles. Project Workshop Project Workshop is reserved for specific projects, not broad subjects. For example, we're making a farm tractor toy. The idea is someone can follow the instructions step-by-step to make this project. These should be presented in step-by-step format. Each step should have a photo showing that step. Please include a pattern where possible. (Note: Pattern downloads for project workshop is limited to SSV Patrons) Include 2 or 3 photos of the final project to include for the conclusion. Look through our Project Workshop for some inspiration and how we format our tutorials. How To Deliver: Please make sure the article you submit was written by you and they're your photos. I can't post articles from other people or books, even if they're out of print. It's a copyright thing, and I don't want lawyers on my lawn. Keep in mind copyrights when putting together Project Workshop tutorials. We can't make sports teams, or other licensed/copyrighted/trademarked projects. I can convert 2 types of documents easily: Microsoft Word document. You can PM or email me a Microsoft Word document. Google Document You can send me a link to the Google document by clicking the "Share" button in the upper right corner, then enter my email address (listed below) Alternatively, you can click the "Share" button in the upper right corner. Then click "Copy Link" and send me the link via PM or email. When you create your document, please embed your images into the document so I know where your pictures should go in the article. You can also send me the text and images separately through email or PM. I'll convert your article, crop photos, and make nice banners. You will receive credit as the author. My contact info. PM: @Travis Email: travis[at]scrollsawvillage.com

Well I have been down to my shop these last few day's. Man does it feel Fantastic. been busy as a beaver. I made a Regiment plaque for a fellow Veteran, and some Butterflies, I especially like the Tiger Face one. Looking forward to doing more.

Cut from 1/4BB and backed with1/8BB I used Aspen for the frame and added the inlays. I also used my spline jig for the first time and used purple heart for the splines. The addition of the splines was easier than I thought-I will probably use them more. Any advice or suggestions are appreciated.

Nicely done! It does get easier once you've done one. I can feel for you for sure... We've done up to 12 on a single base for commissioned piece - we created it as a Patio door topper! Each Pelican has a name: From grand parents to grand children!

great job.......love it.

A plus to the beeswax mineral oil is that it makes the wood feel silky smooth as the wax sort of fills in the pores / grain of the wood.. also the puzzle pieces are slick to slide together or fall apart .. There are tons of methods as you can already see from the comments.. The beeswax / mineral oil mix isn't the fastest method to apply to the puzzles though.

My comments above refer to the "cellulose" type lacquer. In this day and age you must read the label. Water based finishes have their own rules. They do not "burn" the previous coat and so need different techniques. Some of the "new" finishes raise the wood grain more than others. Those that do require sanding. Nuts oh for the good old days.

very nice job

A great idea Brenda. Nicely cut Sticky beaks would like to know how you did the lettering ? I made a large puzzle for a friend of mines wedding cut into the same amount of pieces as guests and each guest signed a piece. When the puzzle was put together the face of it had a nice photo on it.

You are correct Dan, Lacquer thinners will dissolve Lacquer, so theoretically you do not have to sand for the next coat to adhere, in the same way that Metho will dissolve shellac. However Water will not reconstitute water based finishes and the solvent used in oil type polyurethanes will not dissolve them.

Weather has not been the best for golf so I decided to cut a few bowls. A dear friend of mine came for a visit andI showed her the bowls and she bought both of them right away. So I lost my bowls LOL

Amazing. He will be blown away by it. You are a great friend and neighbor. Marg

The Christmas Gnomes are Sue Mey patterns, made from 4mm pine. Tom's Happy Feet is made from 2.5mm Bamboo, in a frame from a cheap shop. Marg

Not a problem as long as you let it cure before cutting. I routinely spray my jigsaw puzzles before cutting and have never had a problem.

It's not cheap, especially in the pressure packs. I purchase it in 4 litre cans. It does work out not to bad a price as it is usually thinned about 2 to 0ne.

Thank you. I do them as all one piece. In this case I thought about doing the dogs separate and attaching but I decided to stick to one solid.

If you want to learn about finishing, look for books by Bob Flexner and Michael Dresdner.

@John B is right about sanding between coats. I am working on a commission piece and chose shellac as the finish. I have put about 4 coats on now and sanded between each. What I did though was started at 400 for the first 2 coats which leveled the surface. Then switched to 600 for the next 2 coats. The finish comes out glossy with out looking like plastic. Although shellac alone offers very little long term protection but adding a coat of paste wax and final buffing helps protect it a little more. Currently I am using Zinsser spray shellac and dries pretty quick between sanding and coats.

I use Danish oil in a Ziploc bag and then wipe excess off. I use two coats and let thoroughly dry. After dry, I use a Butchers wax and a buffing wheel on my drill press. Gives a nice look and feel to the pieces.

I use a gloss lacquer on all of my toys and puzzles. This gives the best protection, while being quick drying and also allowing the puzzle/toy etc to be wiped over with a damp cloth if it should ever require it.

Have ya tried Kevin’s recipe of beeswax and mineral oil? It’s one of my two favorite finishes. Shiny? No. However, this finish gives a “deep” luster. Easy to apply and very forgiving. I apply it with a brush or by hand, use a hair dryer to get it in the nooks and crannies, and then hand rub the piece. I use it on all of the puzzles that I make that are not painted. An added plus, is that it is a good lotion for dry hands. (Big smile). My other favorite finish that you might want to try is Minwax Antique Oil Finish. Again, it’s not shiny, but will give a deep luster. This finish will definitely make the grain “pop”.

Hey everyone! In this scroll saw project video I show you all how I make "Custom" compound cut keychains on the Scroll Saw using the Steve Good Keychain Generator program! Hope you all like the video! Here is the link; #ArtisanPirate

I always like your videos and usually end up getting some good tips from you. This project is easy to make and cut and it is easy to come up with different ideas for them. Dick heppnerguy

Farm - my new project and pattern. Making this pattern took more time than usual - I wanted to make view of classic farm scene. I have never been at such place, but I looked through many photos in the Internet and came to this conclusion: it should contains barn, tractor, windmill and granary. I didnt added animals, because pattern consists of many small details, maybe later I will make one more similar pattern (barn with animals). Aslo I made 2 variant of size: 10,5 х 5 inches and enlarged 15,5 х 7,5 inches (pattern includes both sizes). I hope it looks natural, what do you think? Video of making Farm Farm pattern

I like them!

This is an Alex Fox design that I modified slightly to hold keys. Hard Maple and Walnut. Chris

Jim, you don't know how close I've come to scrolling this little cutie. Reason being, my little buddy, Hershey, looks almost identical. He was a rescue and when we got him, he was completely hairless from fleas. Always wants to be held and loves his belly scratched. I think I'd get rid of the wife before I got rid of my little buddy!

My little buddy, Rocky, long hair apple head chihuahua, follows me everywhere though never gets under my feet.

Yes, slightly. I could rig up a brace or shelf to put under it but I'll wait to see what I do when I move it to the garage. It does cut down on noise without the dust collector running and it's easy to empty.

They are trying to keep the price down I'm sure and that would add another $50 to the planer. I made my adapter for under $10 and it works great.

That's a pretty interesting set up Dan. Does that bag get heavy and pull on the tubing?

I currently can't get close enough to the dust collector so I just attached some elbow and attached a dust collector bag to it. It does a great job. When our garage is built I'll move the shop out of the basement and have a better set up, but this is working great for me. It's out of the way and collects the waste.

Not sure about yours but most require buying a "port" of some sort. I have a Delta and used a Ridgid shop vac adapter to adapt mine to my shop vac.

You may be onto something with that first sentence, LOL. You know, my el-cheapo Ryobi had a molded dust shield cover that had a built in port... off to the side too, LOL.. Seems like DW could have included a fitting at the price of the equipment I still have to buy a elbow. I guess I can sort of understand as not everyone would be using a 4" connector as some hook to a shop vac. etc.. To be fair I had to buy a reducer for the vac. to hook up to my 4" hose so.. DW just don't know so they let you buy what you need. Amazon!! I hate that place.. I try to do as little business with them as possible.. Oops there goes another of your first sentences.. .. Lets just say I'm a seller on Amazon and I know how they treat their sellers vrs. their customers..