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This one took a couple of minutes. I like to miniaturize most of my portrait type patterns, but at 7 1/4” x 11” I probably took it a little too far on this cat. The entire project was cut with Pegas 2/0 spirals. 1/4” Baltic Birch, Danish Oil applied,mounted on a nominal 1” pine board stained black. Though my wife loves this one, I think it was more trouble than it was worth.

Finally! I have been making these signs for a couple of years now but my graphics guy disappeared and I was out of luck. My Inkscape skills are not developed enough to recreate my signature design so I was dead in the water. I took a shot and asked @don in brooklin on if he could help instruct me to recreate the design. I had flat file, single layer pdf files but could not edit the various layers to create a new design. Don not only gave me the help I needed but created a template of the design with the necessary layers so I can easily edit the names and out put a finished pattern for my printer. I CANNOT thank Don enough for his time and expertise. Don you are a huge benefit to this forum and the scrollsaw community!! The top layer is cut from 1/4” bbp and the backer is mdf. I cut these on my Pegas using a #3mgt blade. I edge the sign with copper tape used for computer pcb board repair. The Wade sign is my original and the Roach and Steinberg signs were patterned from Don’s template in inkscape. I glue a burned logo disc on the back to brand it and also to help keep the sign flat when hung on a wall. Interestingly the Roach and Steinberg signs were stained with the same color stain just using a different technique. The Roach sign is for my adopted daughter who gets married on Saturday and the Steinberg sign is for my daughter who gets married in September neither of which would have been made without Don’s skill, talents and wonderful generosity.

I have used to paint my Yoda’s and to do some wood burning, it’s basically a modified Lay Susan, it’s not my design it is Tim Vande Sluis in his Powercarving video on you tube, where he tells you how to make it. The great thing about this it has a non slip mat on it so your project won’t slip, but here’s the greatest thing of all you don’t turn your project you turn the table and use the wedge shown in the photo just jam it between the table and the stand and it won’t turn will you doing whatever. Hope you find this as useful as I do, sanding of completed cuts is a dream with a little Palm Sander.

My niece, who has one of my WELCOME signs, wanted a topper she could display when there wasn't a holiday approaching. The pattern is from FrankzyScrolls and was free on the web. They are both cut from 1/4 Oak ply with a pine backer painted black. The light one is stained with Minwax Natural and my intentions for the dark one was to darken the horses and leave the outer areas light but clumsy me let a nice large drip of dark stain drop right into an area that should have been light, so.... I just stained it all Minwax Colonial Pine. Both have four layers of clear gloss with light sanding using 320 grit paper between coats. I'm still considering putting a hanger on each and framing them where they can be used either as a topper for the WELCOME sign OR hung on the wall. Just not sure if the frame would set the metal piece on the back too far away from the magnet where it wouldn't hold. I will add that these were the hardest patterns I've cut to date. There are only 6 holes. The cuts zig zag back and forth, up and down throughout each other making the pieces very fragile. Hope you like them.

This Image has appeared in many Pinterest searches. Rather simple conversion to a 12” x12” scroll saw pattern. The cut panel is 5/32 solid core ply Birch (if I remember correctly) that I painted Black with Krylon rattle can All-in-one Flat Black Paint and Primer. The backer is ¼” BB Ply that I beached for a few days to get a very bright light wood “Moon” color that was then hand painted in the Grey and White areas using Artist Acrylic paints. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 Spirals and #3 MGT R. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is my typical 1 ¾” wide Poplar stained with Minwax Brazilian Rosewood Stain and protected with multiple coats of Minwax Wipe-on Clear Satin Poly. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Inspired by Steve Goods Welcome to my garden Gnome. I do not have much of a Garden and I wanted to add mushroom. I also made a little larger than Steve's to fit the piece of outdoor plywood. I got a bunch of cutoffs from a shed company. The pattern for this is located at https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/46473-inkscape-12/ I enlarged with Acrobat 110% to 10 1/2 x 13 1/2 high.

This was a gift when I retired, it’s been wrapped in bubble plastic for 6-7 yrs. I found it this morning whilst looking for something else, gave it a good polish and will hang it up in the cottage. Because I’m doing scroll saw work now this Intarsia project has inspired me to add this to my list of projects I must try.

Do you sign your work? Show us an example of how you sign. Here is mine. My initials are TAI and the "Eye" bit is a takeoff on my last initial. I use a small laser to burn it into the work.

Finished cutting and staining this yesterday.

Hi all I have made a few of these now. My sister wanted one when she found out i was making them. Thought i would put a little message on hers There made from old pallets and a scaffold board for the wheel

I am in Many Scroll-saw Forums. Came across Crosses. Love at First Sight....SO.... I have got some finished up until the Shine part. DTR.... Comments Good or Not so Good Appreciated.........Danny :+}

I found the video Don referenced here: Unfortunately it appears that Tim’s website referenced is no longer there so you would need to figure out info. needed from just the video. “I have used to paint my Yoda’s and to do some wood burning, it’s basically a modified Lay Susan, it’s not my design it is Tim Vande Sluis in his Powercarving video on you tube, where he tells you how to make it.” . . .

Minwax Paste Wax should be relatively easy to find. Likely available any place that sells Minwax products, which is pretty much everywhere, except Home Depot.

I've read where others have complained about this with the Hawk saws tops, I never experienced it with my older Hawks but my new Hawk recently started doing this slightly.. I just used a Lacquer thinner and wiped it down good and then used the Johnson's paste wax. Sounds like yours is in need of a really good deep cleaning, you might need to take a fine grit scotch bright pad and attach it to a random orbital sander after wiping it with Lacquer thinner.. then wipe again after the scotch bright.. wax it good.. maybe even use the sander with a soft cloth and sort of buff the wax off.. maybe do that a couple times with the wax. IF it persist after that then I'm not sure.. top coat it with a clearcoat? LOL

I think you would be better off to cover the aluminum, maybe with one of the magnetic covers such as the one sold by Seyco. To keep the cast iron on my DW788 from getting on my projects, I covered it with a piece of tempered Masonite. The Masonite was coated with a couple of coats of polyurethane, then waxed. This also is a lot slicker than the original table, which makes moving the piece easier. Tom

A friend sent me the pattern, so I don't have a pattern source.

I ran across 3 patterns that were supposed to be bud vases. I decided to make one and insert a flameless candle instead. I had to make a couple alterations so that the switch and battery door were available. I bought a set of 3 2 inch candles, a 2" & 4" along with the 6", so I shrunk the pattern to accommodate them. Two more candle holders in the works. This one is oak and cherry with just one coat of Watco natural oil. I don't know the pattern designer's name.

And both very well done.

My first attempt at a leopard.

Dick, it was my pattern and cutting.

I wonder if the cordless miter saws are lighter than motorized ones? I've never looked at them. I have a DeWalt 12" CMS and it's fairly heavy, but it doesn't go mobile very often. I didn't want a slider, as I already have a radial arm saw, so the 12" gave me that little extra capacity for things like crown molding. For 1/4 round and most common baseboard profiles, you could easily do with a smaller blade, even a 7 1/4".

Ray, I was looking at that but too heavy for carting around 53 lbs, with Ridgid you get a life time warranty, RJ

I can not speak to using any kind of indoor living space being used to do scroll saw work. From my experience though, even a small amount of dust will penetrate every nick and granny and stick to any and all surffaces whether hard or soft. Even deligent regular cleaning will not eliminate all of the dust and if you expect guest to use the space for sleeping the wood sawdust smell and finite particles will be difficult for them to handle. As a option, if you plan to down size, a small self owned/rented home with a bit of property would be more appropriate to aquire than a apartment or condo. when I moved to Florida I gave up a large house including a large seperate beautiful dedicated woodworking shop for a small home (actuallyjust half of a duplex) on a tiny piece of property. My home now does not even have a garage. I missed my shop and wanted to be able to do some woodworking and specifically got interested in scrolling. Even on my small piece of property I was able to install an 8'x12' Suncast Plastic shed I purchased from Lowes and turned it into my shop. I'm able to have a small dewalt contractors table saw, a small workbench, a sanding station with a bench combination belt/disk sander, a roll around Router table and my Scroll Saw. I also have tucked away in a corner a Craftsman 12" planer on a little roll around table. I do a lot of the table saw and planer work outside the double doors of the shed. I can only do short cross cuts and panel cutting on the table saw while inside. I actually have two sheds, the second being for my garden tools and storage. it is located 6" away from my shop shed. I was abel to install a small dust collector in the garden shed. I insntalled collection gates from each piece of equipment and hoses that are piped from the shop to the collector in the other shed. This keeps the noise of the collector to a minimum in the shop. All the above being said, my shop is very dusty all the time but I am happy to be able to do small wood working and scroll saw projects with out dust in my home (except what I carry in on my cloths that my lady always yells at me for). I can't imagine an indoor space that could be kept clean of the dust created by the saws, routers and sanding equipment we use regularly in our hobby. Then there is finishing to daal with..... I could go on and on. Hope this helps!

Now that I think back, when I brought my 226 Ultra home it had an oxidized table. I used my ROS sander with 220 paper to clean it up. Then I hit it with a couple coats of Johnson's. No more oxidation.

Beautiful work.

They would look good on any mantel piece. Neat cuts. Roly

We are blessed. We built our present house and moved into it 17 years ago next month. The joke is that we built it for his garage workshop and my craftroom. Neeedless to say, 17 years later, and many different toys errr tools editions later both are full. My craft room, supplies have extended out of my room into the bonus room over the garage. With now being empty nesters, we talk about downsizing - except those two spaces - The laser is a desktop one like Rolf and easily moved around. The CNC and my two scroll saws and sanding equipment has been responsible for his shop space becoming fuller. He’s a good man to share his shop. My biggest problem is I can’t get rid of “that” I might want to do that hobby again (and I often do, after a long period away from it. ) we should probably rent out as a “maker space”.

I guess I could take up carving and trade in my scrollsaw for a set of carving tools. That would solve the noise and sawdust issues. However, I am more attracted to the wide range of projects available for the scrollsaw.

Very well done. Whose pattern? One of the nicest cat patterns I've seen.

I sign mine. I use a permanent fine line marker along with the date. It then gets finish applied over the top. It is dated for the year it was created.

I envy you folks who have the space for lasers & CNC machines etc.

It will definitely be #1 of 1. No way would I do another one.

Why did the aluminum can an the magnet never date? Neither was attracted to the other. Masonite is a good choice. A Google search will give good suggestions. After cleaning try spraying the table with Teflon. It should stop future staining and gi e you a good, slick table.

I always liked silhouettes. Nice work.

The moon from the bleached BB really stands out. Excellent!

WOW, A couple of minutes plus!!! Down Right Awesome!!!!

I do all my work in a 1 bdr apartment. Saw is set up in the dining room. Its tile so easy to sweep up. I dont do thick wood often that makes a lot of sawdust, usually just 1/8" bb which doesnt create much. No issues with lots of sawdust. I paint as well with acrylic sprayer and small compressor. I set up a little booth with some foam backer pieces taped together and it works great. Comes out low pressure anyway plus its water based so if its an issue it cleans right up. Way better than finding a windy spot outside. The hardest part is cutting the larger sheets of wood down to size with the scroll saw. I get 5 x 5's and have the man at the store cut them in half but they still need to be cut down to use. Once I get a few pieces out of one though its easier to manage. I did however get froggy and try using my router. That was a huge mistake, sawdust everywhere and years later still finding it just after a few minutes uses.

Nice job. I do like the lighter one as well. I can't believe there are only 6 holes!

awesome job

I have tried the rubber stamp. You can get anything you want. https://www.rubberstamps.net/ Ink bleeds on bare wood. It is challenging to get the stamp on neatly. They make ink that will stick to about anything, but it isn't cheap. I currently don't sign or mark or sign my work. I was not too fond of the idea of signing my work and ruining the piece in the process.

Very nice!

One of my neighbors threw out a large pile of 2x2 foot flooring samples. I took some home to try. The vinyl samples were horrible to cut. The problem was with the glued-on padding. The glue was soft and gooey and mixed in with sawdust, and smeared all over the edges. However, some laminated (plywood) hardwood samples were lightly glued onto a 1/4-inch hardboard backing. I cut this cross from one of the panels. The backing came off while I was cutting, and I used tape to keep it together. I wound up with two crosses: one plywood and one hardboard. You can see the seams where I glued the tongue and groove panels together. After gluing, I put the cross on a nonstick surface and put two five-pound weights on top to hold it together and flat. I used two Pegas #3 MGT blades to cut this. It cuts much as I would expect from baltic birch plywood. The photo is not very good. I had never photographed a cross before.

Bonjour tout le monde, I'm satisfied (a little) of this first experience for me. I cut this board from a photograph. I made the pattern with an application. I think redo projects like that time to time. You can tell if it's bad Eric

Reminds of Dorothea Lange's dust bowl photos. Poignant!

Thats amazing some real fine detail. Lots of pilot holes it must of taken ages.

Beautiful piece, Kris. What is the size?

Outstanding! Very powerful. There is a lot of meaning in that photo and the cutting.

I agree. Whom ever took the photo was really talented in capturing a moment. And that brings us up to you and your scroll project from the photo. The person talented enough to also capture that moment in a pattern and then cut it so that it can be seen by many more, cut into wood, is amazing as well. I am not sure who made the pattern and cut this, but it turned out amazing as your work always continues to be. Dick heppnerguy

Who knows, if you continue to cut the leopards, you just might be able to do a nice job with them. Of course, I am just being silly as this is your usual quality work, which of course means, Top notch. I always look forward to seeing what you have cut next, every time I see you have posted something. I know I will never reach your ability and skill level but you inspire me to always try to do better with each new project I take on. Thanks for the inspiration from everyone of your posts. You are indeed a great scroller. Dick heppnerguy