Leaderboard

I live in Ormond Beach Florida. I found on-line, some very old B&W photos of famous places here in Ormond Beach, one of which is the Ormond Hotel from back in 1894. It is now called the “Ormond Heritage Condominium” but looks amazingly like it did in its heyday. Here is the Photo. I posted a copy of this photo on 6/19 in Pattern Central/ Pattern Requests with a request for someone to help me out with a pattern. Grampa (Paul) stepped up and produced a Pattern for me. Thank you, Paul. From his pattern I was able to modify it a little (well maybe a bit more than a little). Paul’s pattern is a very simplistic representation of the hotel in the photo as the photo is very grainy and lacked sharp detail. So, I decided to take some artistic liberties to enhance the image to present a credible image while trying to maintain the original image of the hotel itself. Using Paul’s pattern overlayed on the Photo I was able to add lot of details to the trees and bushes, even adding some Palm leaves so the tree trunks look like trees and not poles. There are some trees in the photo on the right side that interfered with view of the building so I eliminated them for clarity. The cutting is 5/32”x12”x18” Solid Core Maple Ply mounted on a1/4” thick BB Ply backer simply painted with Krylon rattle can spray Flat Black. I used various Pegas spiral and regular blades to cut the pattern. As none of the line work was straight, it was necessary to take a lot of liberties during the cutting. Most apparent is the baluster spacing of the Hand Railing. I protected the assembled panel with multiple coats Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 2 ¾” wide 5/4” thick pre-primed molding. I used a frame making router bit to produce the profile. The cutting was not as good as I expected and although I did a lot of both machine and hand sanding, the defects became obvious (in the photo) after the frame was primed and painted. From a viewing distance it doesn’t look tooooo bad. The Paint is a Glidden MAX-FLEX rattle can spray product called Phantom Hue (Silver) in a Satin finish that dries quickly and lays very flat and is supposed to be very durable. Critiques and comments welcome.

Inspired by Steve Good

Hello every one, a request from my sister-in-law (I have a few) I show you my last work, again a Tree of life but I liked to make it. I broke 2 or 3 blades but I didn't regret. It's white oak Thickness 6mm ( 0.236 inch) Diameter 15 mm (5.90 inches) The support is tinted.

Denny... Hope this helps! Removed adjective re·moved | \ ri-ˈmüvd \ 1a: distant in degree of relationship b: of a younger or older generational second cousin's child is a second cousin once removed 2: separate or remote in space, time, or character

Really like the simplicity, sometimes less is more! lol

That is exactly what I did for these. Found the clip art, printed, glued to the wood & cut. They were for a Halloween costume.

Programming note: If anyone has downloaded the PDF, it was created with Inkscape 1.2 using multipage option. It opens just fine in Acrobat but if you want to modify I have found that when I open it I get a grey desktop. I found that if you open new document and then import the PDF it gives you a clean SVG to modify. (you can delete blank page and the instructions with the page option- the bottom of the left tool bar)

There are problems here also with the power but fortunately it has not been shut off yet. Stay safe and just do what you have too. Marg

Anyone have a drill size chart for the smallest usable bit for SS blades. Preferably Pegas MGT blades. Jim

Cut from 1/2" Red Oak

check with artcrafters, i think Denny has one, RJ

Jim, that is first rate workmanship. I have cut a number of the Sheila Landry patterns and found them to be very well designed and balanced. I really like this one and you did it proud!!! Bruce

https://www.bearwood.com/media/all-blades-modified-geometry.pdf From Bear Woods site.

The smallest drill I use is a 3/64

Used Pegas MGT #3 and #5.

Just Love anything New and also Exciting. This fits the billet. I Cheated some by just getting the Pattern from the Google Image Clip Art and carefully cutting it out on the 1/4BB.... I love the Look. So does my better half. Yea! Here are a couple pics............ Danny :+}

Very well done. As mentioned, clean cuts on the lettering.

That is wonderful and nicely framed too.

Great job!

awesome job

Fabulous. Great pattern making skills by you and Paul. Love it, well done. Marg

Scrollsawartbyfrank@gmail.com Thanks

So if I'm understanding you, you find your artwork and then cut your project to match it? I can't see any other way. Cutting out a dog and then finding a picture to match it could prove frustrating as heck!

Down Right Awesome!!

Our Prayers are with you, I do know something about being without power, my Wife and I survived a flood in my hometown, and been through a hard winter freeze, I know it's not the same as your going through. I hope your situation clears up soon.

Prayers are with you, Don. It's unfortunate that our "Leaders" are causing so much havoc.

Thats some real clean letters there

Letters are sooooo hard to cut - and you got all of them just right!

Thank you so much!

Thanks, Marg!

Thanks Don

Very nice

terrific job

After your initial post, I gave this process a try. It works great on other things too. Thanks. x

Very elegant looking!!! I,d hang this on my wall of fame anyway!!!

Beautiful piece, Jim. The wood you selected is awesome. Letters are super clean.

I use DecoArt® Snow Writer Paint. I get at Michaels Really fun stuff. I find it better to paint white under it.

I use a razortip woodburner

If you read any of my posts you know I color my work, primarily with Artist Acrylic Paints. I would be happy to give your process a try. So if you still need testers, please feel free to send my the patterns and info. The Geese look intesting. Thanks

If i offended you - I am sorry !

I'm 79 years old but still crave knowledge. I'm not in the business of selling what I make. I just want a way of personalizing my work with a signature that's readable. If that violates some code, tough!

These are in my kitchen. The largest is 4.5-inches long and they are all 3/4-inch thick. There is one magnet on each one that are less than 1/4-inch diameter. Magnets are mounted in a hole flush with the surface and as close to the balance point as I could get.

They are very fragile. I like to recess the magnets flush with the surface or slightly below.

Depends on the size of the wood and the cutting. When I make my state quarter magnets, I use 3/8" hardwood and since the quarter is 15/16", I always make the area where I place the magnet at leas th 1.5" to give me room to seat the quarter. On all but a few states. I am sinking a 1/4" rare earth magnet (from Lee Valley) into the back. I secure the magnet with a small pool of CA glue and it holds well. Some skinny states that become large tring to get the 1.5" require two magnets. I used to mix 5 minute epoxy, but have found CA works just as well.

I ordered this on Amazon about a month ago. It just arrived and here are the results: I hold the brass portion in front of a propane torch for 1min 15-30 seconds - set it on the wood for 5 seconds or less and this is the result. I am pleased with it.

A girl I know that went to collage for art told me , shiny is what sells. Do you want to buy a flat black Cadillac or a glossy one

I always finish all my projects including ornaments. I always use hardwoods for my ornaments. My finish schedule starts with soaking in a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits and linseed oil. The linseed oil brings out the color and grain of the woods and the mineral spirits thins the oil so it flows easily around the project and allows the oil to dry within 24 hours. Then I topcoat with spray semi gloss lacquer. After the lacquer dries, if there are any dust nibs on the finish, I sand them off with a piece of brown paper bag. It’s like using 2000 grit sandpaper without scratching the finish. It’s a little more work but it’s worth the outcome. I sell hundreds of ornaments a year!

The Carbatec 18” SS450 is a Hegner Clone made by TruPro TEK in Taiwan. I use Clone because it is so close that Hegner parts will actually fit! I have one, have added the Hegner Quick Release and it is a sweet little saw.

Spirals changed my whole approach to scrolling portraits. I was scared to death of them in the beginning, as they seemed to have a mind of their own and got away from me. Then everything just started clicking. They are just are easier to get things done.I still use flat blades for some cuts that spirals can be too course with. 2/0 spirals are very easily broken. Start with 1, or 0 to get the feel and technique down.

Do you have access to Hegner saws? There would be no doubt as to their quality and parts are always available.