Leaderboard

The 1st 8 pics are new ones. I have made for the 1st time. I posted a movie of some of the rockers. The hearts are glued in, as I feel they are a little small for nippers. Also a pic of them all together, shrink wrapped and ready to go. All cut from radiata pine 25 - 30mm thick. 2 coats of clear gloss lacquer. Used Olson PG#7 for cutting exterior and PG#5 for inside cuts. Veining with FD#3 Spiral Also tried Olson Mach#7 They cut like a hot knife through butter, but do not leave as smooth a finish as the others.

this is an Italian mastiff breed

this is a Steve good pattern and i decided to do a double

This pattern has 3 layers. It was cut with a 3R Pegas blade. Springsteen fan or patriotic...a little bit of both.

ADD COLOR TO SCROLLING..........A trick I like to do is to glue the pattern to the front surface as usual....then glue a piece of blank paper to the BACK surface, Cut out as usual. Apply a coat of paint to all the EDGES, inside and outside with the pattern and paper still on. When the paint is dry, remove the pattern from the front and the blank paper from the back and lightly sand the front and back surfaces. All the edges, inside and outside will be colored and this really accent the ornament. Now, finish as you usually do with the mineral spirits and linseed oil, or whatever. This process works well with many other scroll saw projects besides ornaments. Try it. JAN

I ran across this pattern on a European scroll saw page and asked where I could buy the pattern. I was drawn into it at first sight. I never received an answer but posted that I was looking for it. Luckily someone responded and I was able to get the pattern. It was in a format that I have never seen and I was unable to use it. I have a good friend who was able to change it into a format that I could use. After I got it printed, I decided I was not skilled enough to make it. I was kidded a lot about when i was going to make the project. So I finally decided I would at least give it a try. This is the end results and fortunately for me, my wife really liked it and it is now hanging on our front room wall. Each feather has 50 holes and there are about 36 feathers in the project. That meany each feather was going to take in the neighborhood of an hour to cut. Well long story shortened, I finally got through the project. I was not happy with the painting on the body of the bird, but other than that, I am happy with the overall results. Dick heppnerguy

Hello every one, a request from my sister-in-law (I have a few) I show you my last work, again a Tree of life but I liked to make it. I broke 2 or 3 blades but I didn't regret. It's white oak Thickness 6mm ( 0.236 inch) Diameter 15 mm (5.90 inches) The support is tinted.

An other suggestion to ADDING COLOR TO SCROLLING. I nice effect is to highlight the edges of a scroll-saw project. With the high cost of good hardwood today a good way to save $$ is to use cheap plywood. Prime and paint the front and back surfaces of a piece of plywood. Completely sand and finish like you usually do. Even apply a top clear-coat and re-sand. Glue the pattern to the front surface and glue a blank sheet of paper to the back surface. Cutout as usual using a fine blade. Paint the exposed edges a totally different color and let dry. Remove the paper pattern from the front surface and remove the blank sheet of paper from the back surface. Assemble and you'r done. This clock is an example this process.

I live in Ormond Beach Florida. I found on-line, some very old B&W photos of famous places here in Ormond Beach, one of which is the Ormond Hotel from back in 1894. It is now called the “Ormond Heritage Condominium” but looks amazingly like it did in its heyday. Here is the Photo. I posted a copy of this photo on 6/19 in Pattern Central/ Pattern Requests with a request for someone to help me out with a pattern. Grampa (Paul) stepped up and produced a Pattern for me. Thank you, Paul. From his pattern I was able to modify it a little (well maybe a bit more than a little). Paul’s pattern is a very simplistic representation of the hotel in the photo as the photo is very grainy and lacked sharp detail. So, I decided to take some artistic liberties to enhance the image to present a credible image while trying to maintain the original image of the hotel itself. Using Paul’s pattern overlayed on the Photo I was able to add lot of details to the trees and bushes, even adding some Palm leaves so the tree trunks look like trees and not poles. There are some trees in the photo on the right side that interfered with view of the building so I eliminated them for clarity. The cutting is 5/32”x12”x18” Solid Core Maple Ply mounted on a1/4” thick BB Ply backer simply painted with Krylon rattle can spray Flat Black. I used various Pegas spiral and regular blades to cut the pattern. As none of the line work was straight, it was necessary to take a lot of liberties during the cutting. Most apparent is the baluster spacing of the Hand Railing. I protected the assembled panel with multiple coats Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 2 ¾” wide 5/4” thick pre-primed molding. I used a frame making router bit to produce the profile. The cutting was not as good as I expected and although I did a lot of both machine and hand sanding, the defects became obvious (in the photo) after the frame was primed and painted. From a viewing distance it doesn’t look tooooo bad. The Paint is a Glidden MAX-FLEX rattle can spray product called Phantom Hue (Silver) in a Satin finish that dries quickly and lays very flat and is supposed to be very durable. Critiques and comments welcome.

JUST A NOTE...this method can be used when you use cheap plywood in place of good hardwood. .....painted edges hid the fact you used cheap plywood.....Lol. I had a friend make the large CHIMES OF NORMANDY clock and he painted the edges of ALL the pieces white. The clock was beautiful. JAN

Looks great, the Boss would be proud!

That gives me an idea of how to get the finish on deep cuts without getting to much finish on the surface. Thanks for the idea.

Hey OCtools the price for the 18 machine is AU $1049 ( tax time was $768)…. So times .69… that makes about US$725 and the tax sale price was US$545…… originally from Atlanta now living in AUS for the last 25 years.. but still watch the exchange rates….

Oh… and the Excalibur’s listed at $1399 and $1299.. BUT it was tax time here… so the tax sale prices were AU $1199 for the 21” and AU $974 for the 16”….. that equates to US $827 and $665 respectively. Have attached the TruPro Teck Hegner wannabe…. Which is is a really good little tool.

G’day John…. When I was in Carbatec a few weeks ago getting some Pegas blade I looked at the big saws…. The had the 16” and 21” Excaliburs rebranded as Carbatec… the documentation that they provide references General International…. But there they were… in bight shiny Carbatec blue. Looked pretty good…

I once had a project that taught me that cobalt alloy drill bits are the stiffest (minimum side flex), longest lasting, highest heat rating (have to heat the drill bit to 1500 degrees to lose the temper) of all the alloys. You can special order to a #80 from Home Depot. Yes, they are more expensive, but in this case you really do get what you pay for.

I use these, smallest I've found: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TY190C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another picture, me at the market with the scroll saw and light mounted on the stand. There's enough room on the stand to mount a sander (or two) along with the scroll saw.

Toughbuilt TB-S550 https://toughbuilt.com/product/124-miter-saw-stand-based-on-c124 The factory supports are not tall enough for the Scroll saw, I am replacing them with HF roller supports which will allow the height I need. If you are not intending to do over size projects you won't need the extra height. I've used this stand with the HF lunchbox planer and it was rock solid, so it's not surprising that it handles the scroll saw very well.

Chanceux !

The discs where suggested by Gayle over at scroller cafe. Gives it a "woodsy" look plus easy as I was in a rush.

I bought a Craftman,s pack of bit and one of those Plastic chart hole card came with them.

Denny... Hope this helps! Removed adjective re·moved | \ ri-ˈmüvd \ 1a: distant in degree of relationship b: of a younger or older generational second cousin's child is a second cousin once removed 2: separate or remote in space, time, or character

That is wonderful and nicely framed too.

That is exactly what I did for these. Found the clip art, printed, glued to the wood & cut. They were for a Halloween costume.

Great job!

awesome job

Fabulous. Great pattern making skills by you and Paul. Love it, well done. Marg

Frank, that is Awesome!!! You and Paul make a Great Team.

No, just finished. I was thinking I might see if they wouild like to hang it on loan.

Wow Frank, that is fantastic. That is obviously a labor of love and a work of art. You should be very proud. Have you shown it to the people who own and/or operate the hotel?

I always finish all my projects including ornaments. I always use hardwoods for my ornaments. My finish schedule starts with soaking in a 50/50 mixture of mineral spirits and linseed oil. The linseed oil brings out the color and grain of the woods and the mineral spirits thins the oil so it flows easily around the project and allows the oil to dry within 24 hours. Then I topcoat with spray semi gloss lacquer. After the lacquer dries, if there are any dust nibs on the finish, I sand them off with a piece of brown paper bag. It’s like using 2000 grit sandpaper without scratching the finish. It’s a little more work but it’s worth the outcome. I sell hundreds of ornaments a year!

Yes, I just glued the T Bird to the backer.