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Thanks to Jim for these great patterns......It's been so hot that I have been unable to spend any time scrolling out in the garage, so I thought I would give watercolor pencils a try. The projects were previously triple stacked cut with # 3 and # 1 fd scroll reverse blades and I used Arteza 48 count watercolor pencils. Also, I Just want to say that I visit this website frequently and I have been inspired by and in awe of the wonderful group of talented scrollers that populate this site. Thanks to all..... Any and all critiques welcome.....forrest

About 175 pieces of wenge and aspen. I really don't consider it intarsia because every piece is the same height and very little shaping.

I finished this project this morning. The pattern is by Jacob Fowler and found in the book “Woodworker’s Pattern Book”. I cut it on the Pegas Scroll Saw using several Pegas #1R MGT blades. The wood is1/2” unknown and 3/4” Red Oak for the base. The finish is spray Minwax Lacquer Clear Satin. Comments welcome.

My new 3D multilaer pattern, consists of 4 layers 1/8 inch, size 7,5 x x7,5 inches. It was my last project before I left Ukraine, I processed video earlier, but I uploaded video only now to keep my Youtube channel active. Images are 3D visualisation (not photos), video is original. Video of making project 3D ornament pattern

I offered to make one and 4 other girls over heard the conversation and wanted one too. Oh well keeps me out of trouble with something to do . Yeah I love doing it, just nobody wants to buy one.too old to change now , got to stay in practice if not for myself.thanks for looking!!!

We are blessed to have our 13 year old grand daughter spend a week with us. I am in heaven when she asks to spend time with me in my shop learning a new scrolling technique. She did just about everything herself on this Spiderman box. She is definitely a perfectionist.

Made a desktop Bucking Bronco for my home office.

Here is a little project I saw on Steve Good's site last week and decided to give it a try. I am in the process of making a neighbor one of the combines like I made during Christmas last year. I thought it would be fun to give my neighbor a windmill along with the combine to kind of set it off, as it is a farm thing too. It was a fun little project and I will most likely make a few more as I have a lot of country family folks in my family. I know they would probably like one also. It is an easy and fun project to make . This one I made with BB Ply. Dick heppnerguy

As promised in another post. This is the way I create a grey pattern with a red outline in Inkscape. I have a preference for these colours as I find a black line difficult to follow with a scrollsaw blade whereas my blade stands out against a red line. I've condensed the process into 6 stages. 1) At the Top Lefthand corner of the page there is a 'File' button. Click on this and a box will drop down. Click ‘Import’ button and find the pattern you want and click on it and that will take it to your Inkscape screen. Click on your image so that it’s got a 'box' around it. 2) At the very top of the screen you will see a line of various words (File-Edit-View) etc. Click on ‘Path’ and a box will appear, then click on ‘Trace Bitmap’ a drop box will appear on the screen and show you the pattern that you've 'outlined' Click on ‘Live Preview’ if you don’t see it and your pattern will appear in the box Click on ‘OK’ This will make an SVG copy of your pattern. 3) Click on and drag the copies apart. The ‘top’ copy is the one you use. 4) Highlight this copy and click on the ‘Grey’ paint box at the bottom of the screen and this will turn the pattern Grey and you will see that colour in the ‘Fill’ box that is at the very bottom of the page. 5) While you still have your image highlighted, Right Click on ‘Red’ paint at the bottom of the screen and a box will popup, select ‘Set Stroke’ and this will give you a Red outline, you will see this in the ‘Stroke’ box that is underneath the 'Fill' box. You can also adjust the width of the outline by doing a ‘right click’ on the tiny numbers next to the ‘Stroke’ box, a drop box of widths will appear ( I use 0.25 as this suits my #3 blade nicely) but you can play with the different widths until you find one that suits you. 6) Go to the 'File' button at the top lefthand corner and choose 'Print', this will open a 'box' so that you can chose your printer. I then click the 'Preferences' button and it will show me whether I've chosen 'Portrait' or 'Landscape' on my Inkscape page. I personally then have to go to 'Advanced' and choose A4 paper size as that's what we commonly use here in the UK, I'm not sure what any other country has as a default but there are a few choices. You can then print your pattern. Bear in mind that Inkscape only prints what is inside the 'page' that is shown on your screen. I then ‘save’ these changes so that if I cut the pattern again it’s already sorted and ready to print. I hope this is helpful and that I've laid it out in a manner that can be understood and followed. If not, let me know.

Just wanted to put a couple of these on that I did today. Want to give a big shout out to Don in Brookline for taking the time to work on these for me. He did seven patterns for me for all mr grandkids. I have five more to do. Once I cut them all out I will sand them with my mop sander attached to my drill. My granddaughter is going to paint them all there favorite colors. Thank God I don’t have to do that. Lol. These are 9 1/2 x 7. Thanks again Don.

Made a clock of the car I'm building.. BUT, now that I made it and the local performance shop owner that specializes in these cars is really into these little Chevy Cobalt SS Supercharged cars and has been consulting me a little on my build.. well I may just give it to him since he has helped steer me in the direction I'm going with my street / track car and has saved me a ton of money.. he could have sold me a lot of parts I really didn't need, LOL Anyway, cut from Cherry using a FD-UR #5 balde.

Other day had a customer that ordered a truck clock that I have then proceeded to tell me to make it a 1970 Chevy instead of the 1978 one they ordered, LOL... hate when customers place their order and then tell you to modify it.. Like shouldn't the custom request be done before ordering.. I'm thinking about ordering a brand new 2022 Chevy 4x4 truck but then message them after paying for it and tell them to make it a 1965 truck if it works like that.. Anyway, we worked things out.. and she sent me pictures of the truck she wanted a clock made of.. and here is what I came up with.. I'm not sure what I'm missing but I feel like some detail is missing on this somewhere.. resembles a 1970 truck but just didn't turn out ( to me) great.. just okay.. LOL Cut from Cherry using Pegas MG #3 Anyway, pick it apart.. tell me what I should have done to make it better.. BTW.. this is just dipped in Danish oil.. waiting a few days before spraying a topcoat on.. Okay, so.. I forgot I just did this custom order too.. just seen the pictures ( last 3 photos ) on my computer when opening the file for the 1970 truck.. the other set of pictures is of a 1986 truck order that I just mailed out 3 days ago.. and forgot already that I did that one too.. Old Age? LOL

Finished another one for an employee at the thrift store

Are you scanning the images? If so I have found that scanning to jpeg works better for me than any other format. If you are looking for definitions of terms; then click on help, go to the online manual and while in the manual click on the index on the top right of the page.

I do the conversion to Red/Grey using the "Trace Path" command often. Works great, but there are a few things to watch out for. It does not produce an EXACT copy of the original. It tends to treat pointy intersections as curves and will sometimes merge adjacent line work that are very close together on the original. For original JPG or other bit map files that are composed of crisp and sharp lines, it works great however, if the original file is at all fuzzy you can get a lot of inccurate duplication. I have found a lot of patterns offered free in jpg format must be copies of copies or have been produced form screenshots, thus loosing resolution. When patterns are purchased form an orinal pattern maker, or their seller, the patterns are usually electronic copeis of the original and good a clear. And, just a BTW, I make my red lines .005 inches and use a 20% Grey fill. I don't try to split the line, but will have the edge of the blade cut follow the line, one side or the other, depending on how close adjacent cut lines are. However my general rule is "Stay in the Grey" when the cut out area is grey.

I knocked this little project out this week doing a little cutting before work. It is a modified Steve Good pattern made from 1/4 Birch ply stained with Minwax Natural stain and the backer is 1/4 underlayment material stained Minwax Espresso. I will probably tape a white cardboard piece behind the mountains to give them the snowcap look. It was cut using Pegas #2/0 R MGT blades. The dragonfly just happened to be checking out the piece when I took the photo.

I saw the little word patterns that Steve Good put on his page and I thought it would be fun to see how fast I could cut it. I was bored so I printed the pattern out and went to work on it. I was not concerned about how well it was going to come out but I had some old wood given to me that my neighbor had in their garbage so planed it down and decided to see how it cut. It is 1/4 inch thick and was very rough and had a lot of paint on it. I found it easy to cut and so away I went. Due to the fact that it was not something I was going to keep or even wanted to, I got to work on it. It took me 8 minutes to cut the words and 6 minutes to cut the backer board and about one minute to spray both pieces. I had to wait about 20 minutes for the paint to dry and then I glued it and set it face down under a board and put an 8 pound weight on it for a clamp. When I took the clamp off an hour later I found out it had stuck to the paper I had it laying on and the results was ugly as part of the paper stuck to the paint that was not quite dry. Moral of story is. don't get into a rush because it is not how fast one does a project but how well. I had fun timing myself and the wood cut nicely and it was free. plus I was not interested in keeping it when I finished. I had fun challenging myself and finding out the wood will work well for some simple projects in the future. Dick heppnerguy

hey hey. Because I live in Arizona, does not mean I only sell items in Arizona. In fact I have a lot of my items in Germany and even in Japan.. I do get around some... Dick heppnerguy

Thought you were going to ask me what a "whator" is!

terrific job

Great work Kevin. I'm so glad you've recovered so well!

I have just bought a book of patterns that can be freely copied for my use. I would like to use the method shown here or the Gimp method. I like the GIMP way as it is straightforward and gives a result but I am very keen to get started with the Inkscape method. I tried yesterday without success and am about to start today's session hoping for better results. If I may can I come back on here and find out where I have gone wrong. Most of yesterdays results did not have any colours on them. I will post again when I have tried again and have noted down the steps I have taken.

I do plan on cutting one in the future but there is no doubt in my mind that your skill and talent could color that piece with no problem.

That is amazing no electric!!!

Not going to add any color at this time. I think if I was going to add color I would have done so before I put it all together. why don't you build one and use color and post it so I might have an idea on how to do it? Dick heppnerguy

Glad to see you pumping these out Kevin. Hope that means you are slowly getting better. Nice work, more happy recipients. Sorry no one seems to want to pay you though.

Wow, what a beautiful work of art, Dave. The fit looks perfect.

I guess you have to please the customer. Looks great.

Not bad Dick. What blade did you use.

Hey buddy, I didn't know you had Mickey and Minnie and Betty Boop.I like those. My little Chloie would love the Mickey and Minnie one. Zoie would love Betty Boop. Nice job.

Cute little job to make. Looks good.

terrific work

very nice work

Kevin, The cuttings look very sharp and nice. Questions: Did you put something behind the "H" and "E" in CHEVY to support the letters? I wind up cutting fonts more often than I might like and have found that the little parts of the block capital "E" are delicate. It looks like you have a trick to handle this. What wood did you use for the base of the trucks? Red Oak maybe? It looks different from the cherry used for the trucks themselves.

They are fun and easy to do but may I suggest that maybe next time you put the darker color at the back, I learnt from my mistakes. Marg

Very nice Kevin, I especially like Betty Boo. Marg

Not TV Kevin, We never had TV when I was a Kid. Actually we never had electricity until I was 12 These were the good old Paper comics

I'm surprised at the time ? Looks like a keeper to me!!!

Looks to me, it came out very well.. No surprise with your cutting abilities!

Keep this one and make another one for him.

Made this from a Steve Good pattern for my entry way. I had a old piece of barn wood that I used for the backing part.

One mans junk is another mans high quality plastic

Wishing you lots of fun with your new machine Barbara. Looking forward to LOTS of posts from you

Actually my head hurts from having an idea that was not placed there by the wife.

Thanks for all the time you spent on this. I do the technique using Inkscape you are discussing all the time for folks. Some can't see unless a pattern is in red or with red outlines and a gray fill and they ask me to change things up for them. Always happy to help when I have time, but f you have a computer, it is actually fun to do it yourself. It really seemed hard until I figured out the "one potato, two" you described here. And that is really all it is, a step by step process, but man oh man was I intimidated when I first tried to learn this. I wish I had you around to explain this to me then.

Must admit I've never had this problem, even on the 'fussiest of patterns', but as I've said, I use this method to convert my black/white patterns to grey/red so perhaps because the original patterns were good, this method works great for me. The 0.25 outline works best for me as it's the size that fits my blade and the one I find easiest to follow. Everyone does it differently to suit themselves.

Thanks Brenda for the lesson. I haven't used Inkscape very often but like the other got very frustrated at using it. I know that I am a visual learner.

Thank you Brenda, for the time you put in to this, as it will help a lot of people.

Thanks for your help. I am gonna try this.

Depends on your printer I suppose. It will print only the size of the 'page' that is on Inkscape and you can make that 'page' different sizes. go to 'File' in the top left hand corner and in the drop box chose 'Document Properties', I only ever use A4 or multiples of as this is all my printer will take. So if I need a 'larger' pattern I position my pattern over the 'page' when I print, so that I ultimately print all of it and then tape them together.