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This makes 4 Johnny portraits on my wall, but the way I see it, a man can never have too much Cash. I cut it in 1/4” red oak with a black stained oak backer. It is about 7 1/2” by 8 1/2” which was a mistake. I like the size of it but the pattern I made would be much better suited for a larger portrait. I had to leave out a lot of detail. Let me know if you’d like a copy of the pattern.

Been playing around with more mags and ornaments. Doing Some experimenting with these so some will probably end up in the box of shame and some will make the tree ( if my wife allows)

9 Tissue Boxes done and dusted Radiata Pine and Jarrah 3 coats of 30% gloss lacquer with the exception of the Right hand rose, 3 coats of full gloss. I used glitter on the felt behind the church, looks like a starry night. Click on the pic to enlarge. Thanks for looking Now to sell them

When I saw Steve post his tint gnomes I knew I had to add to my collection. PS: That is a Canadian quarter in front.

I have many shadowbox animal patterns, I recived many requests of making such pattern with eagle, and here it is Eagle pattern

I made the pattern for this from a photo that I found online. It took about 16 hours to cut. I chose this because my first "car" was a 1935 Ford pick-up.

A few days ago we lost a Fantastic and Beautiful singer. This is my Tribute to her. Sorry I put this in the wrong place. I will correct that.

Just finished this Russ Beard pattern, I have some thoughts as to how I want to make the framing etc. But for now the hard work has been done. cut on a modified Wen Scroll Saw with my own design pin less blade adaptor and blade holder, the entire pattern was cut using a Niqua #0 blades.

I also agree with Paul, best one ever. Excellent work Charlie. ( Not a fan, but at least I know who he is. ) Marg

They are terrific John, I hope they sell well for you. Marg

John, are Radiata Pine and Jarrah native to Australia or another name for something available elsewhere?

Great work, John. I don't think you'll have any trouble getting those sold.

I agree with Scrappile, this is the best Johnny Cash I've seen. Great job!

Really nice John, I like your wood selection and finish-any of those will look great in a room.

All are very nice! I've made the church one myself.

Beautiful work, John with a great array of interests - something for everybody. They should be very successful, Bruce

Very impressive... Nice work

Great job and you do have a very good selection! Would be hard to choose one over another! Erv

fantastic work

Well I put my parts on my saw this morning and decided to try it out. I wanted to try something simple as this was my first time using a scroll saw. Knocked up this pattern in inkspace with a font I liked taped it up and went at it! Next time I'll make the outline in grey and thinner as the blade was hard to see in the black. I mostly kept to the line (but they are only a suggestion right) but the s has a few flatspots on it ( I'm presuming I'm turning without feeding?) Kind of embarrassing after seeing what you guys turn out but realize we all have to start somewhere. Thanks for all the positive input on my posts so far ( I know the new guy can be anoying ) and any constructive criticism is appreciated if it's going to improve my work, it needs it Thanks for looking !

This is such a sweet careing employee. She listens earnestly to what's being said and responds with body language that is so cute to see.crap oak flooring waste that had voids in it I wasn,t expecting. Dollar 25 store acryilic paint that is so thin and missing pigment I found that the only way to paint with it is flood it on and I used the other end of the paint brush to apply it. Thanks for looking!!! 10" x 4"

Looking great!

Looks a lot better than my first cutting. Well done.

Awesome pattern and cutting.

awesome job

Thanks for the kind words. Just glanced at your profile and noticed your originally from West Brom, I was born in Handsworth Wood just down the road and now living in the States ..... It's a small world.

That is better than anything I cut when I first started, so a big well done and keep going. Marg

Thanks Ray, I did this after reading an earlier post in this thread, they pretty much went back where they were. The saw was cutting well beforehand just the hockey sticks. When I replaced the blade I didn't wind down on it like I was doing before and all seems good and the blade stayed put. All in all I'm going to chalk it down to inexperience and my zealous application of force on the knobs, snuging it down then giving it a little extra seemed to work fine and no hockey sticks

Thank you all, We have a small market this arvo from 1 - 4 pm, part of Boulder's 125 years celebration. We'll see how we go. @flarud The "church" is a pretty slow mover, but I enjoy cutting it as it is one of the more challenging of the patterns I have for these.

Common problem. It's called hockey sticks. The first thing you need to do is make sure the anvil side (set screw) is protruding into the blade slot about 1 thread. Do this top and bottom. Using some blue Lok-Tite to keep it there. Once you have a blade locked in place check that the blade is in alignment top to bottom. Once that's done check that it is square to the table.

Just to clarify, what's happening is the blades a bending where the screw contacts them, as I said earlier I'm probably over tightening. I've purchased some new knobs because the ones that were on it are cracked and ready to break.

Yes it's your fault telling me to just do a little something till I get back in the swing of things!!!

Another ripper Charlie.

@OCtoolguy quote "rub them with 220 sandpaper" I use a magnet (scrap with magnets) to hold a sandpaper to my rbi frame. I scratch the blade up a bit before clamping.

I have blade storage tubes that I keep at the saw and only put a dozen or two in the tube at a time then keep the rest of them in the package they came in. Before putting them in the tube or unwrapping the wire from them I spray both ends with a quick shot of brake parts cleaner.. that removes to oil from the blades.. just be sure to use them in a timely manor or you may end up with them rusting, partly why I only keep a few in the storage tubes at a time and why i leave the others in the packages. I rarely "sand" the blades but have done it.. seems like the brake parts cleaner does the trick quite well for me so I don't have to take time to sand the ends.. I happen to work on cars enough that I have a case or two of brake parts cleaner spray cans around.. If you don't normally have it around the shop then rough up the ends as Ray mentioned..

That is the best Cash I have seen.. I would be very grateful for a copy of the pattern..

Not sure if this helps but according to the EX parts list the "set screw" is M6x8 so I'd say it's 6 mm x ?

These youtube phenoms are very rare. I'd bet that in most folks realm they would have trouble finding even one person that is making money off youtube. It's a passing thing. The problem is that most people think they are worth way more than they are. Who should get paid a "living wage" to flip burgers? That is an entry level job at best. It was never meant to pay enough to raise a family on. This whole minimum wage thing is a sham. Every time the minimum wage goes up, everything else goes right up with it so workers don't get any farther ahead. It would be better to do away with the minimum wage completely and let the market prevail. A job is only worth what someone will pay to have it done. If you truly think you are worth $15/hour to wash dishes, you are only fooling yourself. Someone will come along and do it for $14. That's how the market works. Get the government out of it.

Nope, LOL.. I have a Excalibur and three Hawk scroll saws and the Hawks are SAE and the Excalibur is metric... Been there tried that.. that being said though.. if they are dressed good on the Hawk.. I find you don't have to clamp them down with much force and less force helps them last much longer. If you get bent ends of the blade.. you have a few issues to look at.. first being is the end of the bolt completely flat, second is the set screw on the opposite side screwed in far enough.. and the third thing is.. are you clamping with too much force. I bought some new thumb screws from Hawk ( Bushton MFG) and you'd think they'd dress the ends flat.. I specifically bought from them thinking they'd be dressed flat.. Instead they sold me the same thing I'd get at a local hardware store at 1/3 the price, LOL.. I made my own tool just out of a piece of wood scrap to dress the screws on my power sander.. Just drill a hole the size so the screws will thread into the wood.. make sure you start them in straight.. screw them in until they just barely protrude the back side.. then have at it with the power sander or belt sander.. even just laying a piece of paper on the bench and hand sand it.. they'll get a nice flat smooth clamping edge.. Use some blue loc-tite thread locker on the set screw so it stays put. I like to use a feeler gauge to set set screw into the blade chucks.. this way both top and bottom set screws position the blade in the exact same position.. I pick whatever feeler gauge and place it in the slot where the blade goes and turn the set screw in until it slightly touches the feeler gauge.. might take some practice to get the right size feeler gauge so you can have enough space for the blade and get the thumb screw to go in as well. Hope that make some sense.

Occasionally I think I need to design a "Do Something!" sign. Human inertia is a powerful thing. Glad to see your are overcoming! Bruce

Let me say that to cut letters as the first thing you cut using a scroll saw you have a great future ahead of you! Cutting letters or words for most scrollers is the most difficult! You have nothing to be embarrassed about, you did a fine job on the first cut! As others have said keep that first cut in a safe place and go back and look at it in a years time! You will be amazed! Erv

youre first time using a scrollsaw and embarrassing? there aint nothing to be embarrassed about here. i made fancy kindling for quite a while before i got the hang of it . your first piece is great!

Maybe you can contribute in that area. I've been trying for 5 years and can barely do anything. I might become your least favorite Villager.

For the first, looks real good. A suggestion, keep your first project in your shop and watch your progress as you scroll through life.

Thanks to Grampa for this Pattern. Was a real Easy and Fast cut. I really like it a lot. Makes Elvis look like Elvis in his younger days. As Always any Pros n Cons are welcome. Oh yea I do plan to put this in a nice Frame DTR.... Danny :+}

I'm 60 this year, as long as I can remember I've always butchered wood in some form, from rough carpentery to fine furniture. A few years ago I started having pain in my ankle and eventually was diagnosed with a rare form of cancer, eventually I lost the leg below the knee. I've recovered ( Cancer free now) and have a bionic leg walking is fine but standing still is still a little tiring and painful after a while. Thus my wood butchering has suffered, I've wanted to give scrolling a try for a few years now and now seems the perfect time to start. If you've read my introduction post you will already know that I picked up a half decent saw (which needed a few parts that I received today) And a comfy chair , most important I'm looking forward to my new adventure and sharing it with you fine people, more like bugging you with stupid questions any tips and tricks for a new guy appreciated

Another fun image I found and just had to convert to a scroll saw 11”x14” pattern. Although the image was a simple B&W line image, my brain said ‘color’. However, it turned out to be a lot harder to make it a color project then I expected. It sat around my painting area for over three weeks before I finally decided on how I thought I wanted it to look. I first tried to color just the backer, but it just did not read well. So, I wound up hand painting both the backer and cut panel with Artist Acrylics. I'm not sure I did it justice, but my Lady thinks it came out good, so I'm happy. The Cut panel is 5/32” solid Core Maple affixed to a 1/4” BB Ply Backer. Most of cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R blades while a few of the small areas was done with #2/0 MGT R blades. After painting and assembly, the panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 1 3/4” wide Poplar finished with Rust-OLeum Black Lacquer. Comments and critique always welcome.

Love it. Colors are just right. Marg

These are a couple of more horse patterns I converted in to a Scroll Saw pattern from images I found on-line. I needed these to fill out my Horse Theme. Both are 1/8” BB ply positive cuttings, hand painted and affixed to a hand painted 1/4” BB Ply Backers. Both Cut with Pegas #1 MGT R blades. And, as usual, the assembled panels were protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. And with keeping of the theme, the Frames are 1 ¾” wide distress Poplar stained with Minwax Early American and finished with multiple coats of Spray Satin Poly. High Stepping 11” x 12” Horse and Horseshoe 11” x 11” Comments and critique always welcome.

Starting to look good buddy. By the way everyone, he's making them for me. Thought I'd give him a little work to do. Kevin, are you going to put a little bling on them. Let me know.