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Well, I finally finished it !! Just a coat of 'clear' left to do. All I can say is I hope he likes it because I'm not doing another one !! 3' x 18" Going to stick to my scrollsaw for a while now, it's been neglected for too long. The router can now go back in the cupboard !!!

Hello, this hanging cat is one of my first project from Steve Good's pattern catalog.

Be careful how you cross my path, you could get rewarded,loll

Here is a Steve Good pattern I cut a couple last year for a Halloween decoration. I thought it was a fun piece Dick heppnerguy

I have a Nephew that is celebrating his Retirement next weekend after 30 Years of Service. So I wanted to make him a "Special" gift. Well, I chose an Eagle pattern Janevski for that gift. I somehow managed to accidentally reduce the size from 11" X 14" down to 6 3/4 X 9" which mad the cutting a bit more difficult to do, but I love the way it turned out. The size fit a beautiful scrap of Aromatic Cedar Plywood that I have been saving for quite a few years. I just got done gluing the layers together. Everyone that has seen it absolutely Love it, so I am sure that my nephew will do the same! Thanks Janevski for the Awesome idea for the gift! Dick

3/4" white wood 11"x17". Corner do dads cut with spiral#5, the rest with #5 straight.im pretty sure Bob scroll designed the do dads in the corners years ago.l

I have cut many hardwood projects in oak and even Jatoba wood (with a wood hardness/density rating roughly twice that of oak.) I have settled on the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse and use them for all woods and projects. With the harder and more dense woods like Jatoba you work more slowly and change blades more frequently but other than that there is little difference. The biggest challenge for me is to curb my impatience and let the blade dictate the pace. Here's a project done in Jatoba: The dime will give you a feel for the size of the letters. This was cut with Flying Dutchman #1 Ultra Reverse blades and I went through 12 of them for this piece. Good luck with the oak!!! Bruce

A two inch thick board of any wood is not easy to cut IMO.

White oak is a bit tougher than red oak... most all the stuff I cut I use either a #3 or #5 Pegas MGT blade... That said, I don't do much real thin cutting unless I'm "stack cutting" 1/8" pieces that I tape 4-5 of them together so then it's actually cutting 1/2 - 5/8".. Not a big fan of cutting anything more than 3/4" myself.. the thicker wood you cut the slower the cutting goes.. I like to cut fast, pretty much run my saw full speed.. I probably learned to like cutting fast from the beginning as I started out doing portrait cuts from 1/8" material ( hardwood until I learned about Baltic Birch ) and I also started out not knowing about stack cutting.. Cutting 1 piece of 1/8" hardwood goes pretty fast, and that is how I learned to scroll saw, so cutting 3/4" etc. seems like watching paint dry for me.. LOL Many folks took my liking of fast cutting was because I'm in a rush to "make money" and that's not it at all for me.. If I cut slow then the customer pays more, I'm still getting my money.. LOL.. I go fast because that's how I like to cut, not because I'm racing a clock.

I purchased this pattern from Charles Hand and was unable to receive it in a download. I contacted him and he worked with me on trying to get it to me for several days. After several ideas, I finally thought to have him try to send me the pattern through another of my web pages and I finally got it today. I had to work hard to get the layers to their close sizes as I was only able to get the pattern as screen shots before today, and had to try and get as close a match to the correct sizes by printing and changes until I was OK and cut it. It is 8 layers and one I could not quite understand what the size was supposed to be so I left that one out of this project. Again I tried to paint it to help bring out the layers better. I will have to cut this again in the future and get it all correct next time. Dick heppnerguy

Blade preferences are very much a matter of personal tastes. There are several variables involved that make it tough to say that a specific blade is the best for a particular application. Your plan to try different blades to see what works for you is the best approach. Understanding general characteristics such as size, tooth configuration, etc will help you narrow the choices down. I've said that you can give 10 scrollers the same pattern and the same type and thickness of wood and ask them which blade is best for the project and you will likely get 10 different answers.

Good info, thanks I'm think I'm going to cut a scrap and try some different blades and see what works for me, seems like the logical thing to do

I hadn't thought to check there for a FoxChapel book. Now I will have to go spend some time down that rabbit hole - thxs

I don't often cut single layer material over 1/2" (with the exception of compound cutting). Even when I'm stack cutting, I try to keep the stacks a little thinner than most, maybe 1/2" - 5/8". I just find those thicknesses much more enjoyable to cut than thicker stock. I routinely cut 1/2" hardwoods with a #1 FDUR (Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse) blade, with no problems. If the pattern is relatively simple, I might step up to a #3 FDUR. The going may be slower than some would prefer, but as a hobbyist, I usually don't have any need to cut fast. If I were cutting 3/4" white oak, I would probably reach for a #5 FDUR, if the pattern has some detail and tight turns. If the pattern is simple, maybe go up to a #7.

My Son has "Girl Friend" in Michigan and he used to buy stuff to send to her for birthday, Xmas etc, but what he now does is purchase items online and have her address as the delivery address. He tries to get items from the US.

Made me laugh Marge. I am in the US and have a sister in Sweden, I cannot afford a simple little gift to her. Almost as cheap to fly over and visit.

Oak is an easy wood to cut (for me). I have used many different blades depending on the size of the cut and complexity of the pattern. To expand your experience, try a few different blades.

Shipping and exchange rates make it very expensive to order from them directly. If you have the ISBN number, you may be able to go to a local bookseller and see if they can order it in. I had wanted the 20 Minute Puzzle book, but didn't want to pay exchange/shipping. Happened to be in my local bookstore and there it was. It is now in my hands and off their shelf.

During the FUN Days of summer we trend to put things off and never get around to doing them. If you have that problem, make one of these and you can tell everyone, you got 'A-ROUND TO IT'

Well I put my parts on my saw this morning and decided to try it out. I wanted to try something simple as this was my first time using a scroll saw. Knocked up this pattern in inkspace with a font I liked taped it up and went at it! Next time I'll make the outline in grey and thinner as the blade was hard to see in the black. I mostly kept to the line (but they are only a suggestion right) but the s has a few flatspots on it ( I'm presuming I'm turning without feeding?) Kind of embarrassing after seeing what you guys turn out but realize we all have to start somewhere. Thanks for all the positive input on my posts so far ( I know the new guy can be anoying ) and any constructive criticism is appreciated if it's going to improve my work, it needs it Thanks for looking !

Thank you Sir! I'm pretty sure that he will like it, because he likes everything I have ever given him! Dick

Outstanding piece, Richard. I'm sure your nephew will love it.

A while ago I acquired a bunch of reclaimed oak bench seats from a school gym, by the time they come out of the planer they are a shade under 3/4 thick. I can resaw them if needs be but there are a couple of projects I have in mind that call for 3/4. What's the best blade choice for cutting this as I've only cut softwood so far and I'm going to guess this stuff will be pretty hard, most of it has got some figure to the grain too. I'm thinking a skiptooth blade but what do I know

Each saw has a different cutting style depending on saw type and brand and also how the saw is set-up.. For example the Excalibur type saws with the short arms at the front of the saw has a more "rocking" motion on the blade, where as a Hawk or Hegner type saw has a more straight up down motion.. I can move from my Hawk to my Excalibur cutting on the same piece using the same blade and the Excalibur is more aggressive and cuts through the wood faster.. even though I have the saw adjusted to get the least amount of blade movement at the table height.. So, that said.. I find that the FD-UR to be a less aggressive cutting blade and I don't care to use them at all on my Hawk.. Only use Pegas blades on the Hawk.. and use either one on the Excalibur depending on what I'm cutting.. Anyway, my point is.. this is another reason why it's important to try sample packs.. getting advice on what blade to use can vary widely just from saw set-up..

Hans Meier has a good You Tube video on 3D or compound cutting.

And there it is exactly my problem, something I have to do myself. That is totally awesome!!, seeing something like that makes me realize how far behind the curve I am lol I bought a good selection of blades to begin with and I'm also preferring the ultra reverse FD blades, so far I'm liking the smaller blade even on pretty straight cuts I like a #3 over a #5 but with only less than a week and not a lot of time on the saw that could change. Thanks for the input !

Hey Dave and All I did take a chance and order the 1/8 (what I tought was BB) but wasn't. Only Birch and it looks like its like a Thin layer of the Birch and middle looks to be MDF. Like it was mentioned all sheets are FLAT AND it scrolls Great. No tear out on bottom. Don't have info about ordering etc, but I did pay $19 for 10 sheets of 12by12. OH yea this was ordered off of AMAZON. And it is just a tad shy of 1/8 inch.... Anyway this is my 2 cents worth............Danny :+}

I'm curious. If my local hardwood/plywood supplier can't get BB ply and hasn't been able to get it for some time, where are these Internet suppliers getting their stock from?

Being normal is HIGHLY overrated. Bruce

I will echo the suggestion to work with a smaller blade. I don't even stock the #12 blades. A second consideration is the saw speed. Too slow will result in chatter and too fast will make you feel out of control which can also result in chatter. Start with a speed control at roughly 1/2 speed, drop down to a #3 blade and work from there. I do most of my work with FD Ultra Reverse #1, #3, and #5. Larger blades are reserved for long mostly straight cuts on the edge of the plaques I like to make. The only fatal mistake in learning the scroll saw is fear of making mistakes. Good luck!!!! Bruce

ridiculous, ridiculous , absolutely ridiculous! that is what I say about shipping

excellent job

very well done.I have made some signs too and know the pain you go through making them

I'll have to confess I'm cutting thicker wood right now because I'm to lazy or busy to resaw and plane some stock down to size. I do have some cheap thin ply in the garage but cheap is the word it's full of voids. It's a busy time for me right now I I just don't have time and being as this is all new to me I just want to sit down and make some cuts in the few odd moments I have. I understand that we all work at our own speed and I thankfully I'm not going to have to make a living out of this as I'd starve. Come the weekend I'll order some thinner BB and some more blades and hopefully have some more time to cut.. Thanks for your input!

I thought I had ordered some MGT blades but I didn't so I better do so. The stuff I have is white oak, flat sawn, I've made a couple of furniture projects out of them as they are 8in wide. Thanks for the reply, looks great !

I made this for a friend out of 3/4" & 1/2" red oak. The "rings" were all cut from one board. Cut like butter using Pegas #5 mgt.

It looks to me like Cherokee is charging for shipping.

Amazing fun your having!!!!

A Super Awesome job !!! I tried my hand at that several years back, I went back to Scrolling.

Great work, I've tried one of these and they are not easy, Especially that size.

It turned out very nice. You did a great job with it. Thanks for sharing

I also use the cnc bits for the majority of what I do although to 'clear out' on this sign I did use a regular bit as there was so much wood to remove. But I find the cheap and cheerful cnc bits brilliant for my normal stuff.

about 15 years ago( and not long after taking up scrollsawing), i did a fishing scene plaque for a friend. he loved it. i told him there were mistakes in it, which i knew where they were but didnt point them out. few weeks later i went to his house. he says,"check out that plaque hanging on the wall. i think its pretty friggin amazing but the dude that did it said theres mistakes in it. can you find what he was talkin about?' ill be darn if i could even remember what the mistakes were

Thank you.. However, although I too think it would look better the way you describe, the 'owner' wants it as is,, and as my old boss used to say ''The customer is King''

After several days of contemplation mixed with terror, I tried artist brushes and acrylic but hated it, I tried 'foam rollers' too but after the first touch I chickened out . So I cut a piece of kitchen sponge and used Rustoleum paint. I wiped on a thin coat of paint over the letters being very careful to work from the inside - out and when that dried I used the same sponge to 'dab' paint all over. I didn't know if it would work as it seems like nothing the 'professionals' do but I don't think it turned out that badly

I buy mine from Woodpeckers on Amazon and very good quality plus free shipping.

I would have done the same thing, It should not cost that much to ship a couple of books. Sounds like a bit of pocket padding to me.

Looks like he's bit light on with the fibre Frank Beautiful piece

I quite liked this one I did for a friend. 20220803_222726[1].mp4