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Surprising my beautiful daughter-in-law with a portrait. She's a wonderful wife and mom so I'm a blessed father-in-law!

I have a Nephew that is celebrating his Retirement next weekend after 30 Years of Service. So I wanted to make him a "Special" gift. Well, I chose an Eagle pattern Janevski for that gift. I somehow managed to accidentally reduce the size from 11" X 14" down to 6 3/4 X 9" which mad the cutting a bit more difficult to do, but I love the way it turned out. The size fit a beautiful scrap of Aromatic Cedar Plywood that I have been saving for quite a few years. I just got done gluing the layers together. Everyone that has seen it absolutely Love it, so I am sure that my nephew will do the same! Thanks Janevski for the Awesome idea for the gift! Dick

Val Kilmer as Doc Holliday. I improvised from a tee shirt image I found on Google. It's about 7" X 8" on 1/2" red oak.

Planers are for removing wood to reduce the thickness. Sanders are for removing tool marks from the wood. My Dewalt planer will remove a maximum of 0.125" of material. My Grizzly sander will remove a maximum of 0.006" To remove 1/8" with the planer it will take 1 pass. To remove 1/8" with the sander it will take about 21 passes. The sanding belts also have to be cleaned frequently to prevent the wood from overheating and provide a smoother surface.

Well, I finally finished it !! Just a coat of 'clear' left to do. All I can say is I hope he likes it because I'm not doing another one !! 3' x 18" Going to stick to my scrollsaw for a while now, it's been neglected for too long. The router can now go back in the cupboard !!!

3/4" white wood 11"x17". Corner do dads cut with spiral#5, the rest with #5 straight.im pretty sure Bob scroll designed the do dads in the corners years ago.l

Paul, I have read about folks putting the blades in upside down and thought to myself, I would NEVER do that. But strangely, it just happened the other day. Somehow, the blade twisted in my fingers and waddayaknow, it wouldn't cut worth a darn. LOL.

My old Ryobi planer I could run it down to 3/16 without issues.. however once I get to around 1/4" I start taking very light passes... Not much that I do in solid wood that is much thinner than that.. if I need it thinner then I just buy it that way, LOL. I much rather be sawing on the scroll saw than resawing and all the other fuss.. I get quite a lot of free lumber from my brothers lumber mill which is usually 4/4 or 5/4 thickness.. in that case since I mostly cut 5/8 - 3/4 I will resaw those.. From a business standpoint, for me to calculate the labor rate to make a board and the wear of bandsaw blades, planer knives etc. It's way cheaper for me to just buy the lumber in the thickness I need.. That might be a different story if I didn't have Johnson's Workbench within a 30 minute drive.. where they have about anything I want/ need in in the thickness I want / need.. if they don't have the thickness they'll make it for me while I shop.. LOL.. Re-sawing the free lumber from my brothers mill or the neighbors mill is worth while because I can get 2 5/8" - 3/4 boards to use.. You'd have to make a lot of thin boards to re-coop the cost of the drum sander when considering all factors of time and maintenance etc.. if you was buying it to simply make thin stock.

I have both just be aware that a drum sander is very good and I use it a lot but very slow to take off much thickness. You need lots of passes. Saying all that I wouldn't want to be without either one.

Wow! That's really beautiful!

I have cut many hardwood projects in oak and even Jatoba wood (with a wood hardness/density rating roughly twice that of oak.) I have settled on the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse and use them for all woods and projects. With the harder and more dense woods like Jatoba you work more slowly and change blades more frequently but other than that there is little difference. The biggest challenge for me is to curb my impatience and let the blade dictate the pace. Here's a project done in Jatoba: The dime will give you a feel for the size of the letters. This was cut with Flying Dutchman #1 Ultra Reverse blades and I went through 12 of them for this piece. Good luck with the oak!!! Bruce

I also use the cnc bits for the majority of what I do although to 'clear out' on this sign I did use a regular bit as there was so much wood to remove. But I find the cheap and cheerful cnc bits brilliant for my normal stuff.

After several days of contemplation mixed with terror, I tried artist brushes and acrylic but hated it, I tried 'foam rollers' too but after the first touch I chickened out . So I cut a piece of kitchen sponge and used Rustoleum paint. I wiped on a thin coat of paint over the letters being very careful to work from the inside - out and when that dried I used the same sponge to 'dab' paint all over. I didn't know if it would work as it seems like nothing the 'professionals' do but I don't think it turned out that badly

Stunning !

Thank you, yes I find controlling my small router quite easy. The cnc bits are so small and sharp it makes it easier than using regular bits. Also I like doing 'detailed' stuff which I don't think you could do with a full sized router. Well, I couldn't anyway.

I just did a software update. If something isn't behaving the way it should, please let me know and I'll take a look. Thanks all!

Beautiful woman, beautiful cutting!

Not a day goes by that I don't use my drum sander. I get most of my lumber in the rough which is about 1" thick. I make a lot of inlaid boxes using 3/8" stock. I will resaw my lumber with my bandsaw and then run it through my drum sander. I end up with two useable pieces. A drum sander will also sand some pretty small pieces. Just tell your wife that Dave said you need a drum sander.

Beautiful job Brenda. Thanks for all the info as the project progressed. Looking forward to watching the video.

I have the Flatmaster. Don't actually use it much as it is in a very awkward corner. According to their site, it is a replacement for the planer.

I'd like to have a drum sander, but I don't have space for it. I think it would be a great supplement to a planer, but I wouldn't consider it as a replacement for it.

I haven't read all the comments. I don't have a planer. On one of the FB pages someone mentioned that most jobs can be done on a drum sander instead of a planer, it just takes more passes. The advantage to the drum sander is it would take bigger stock than the planer.

Dan what grit are you using on the Grizzly? If I have to remove a lot of wood on the drum sander I will use 80 or even 60, especially on pallet wood which i will not put through my planer. Kevin I agree the tools are expensive but in my case a big part of my hobby is the tools! And I have access to any thickness I need at any time. It would be nice to have a local resource like you have available.

I have both a planer Dewalt DW735 and I also have a Super Max 19-38. As the others have said they serve different purposes. Also a 6" jet jointer JJ-6CSdx. I do other work than scrolling. The drum sander is not meant for large stock removal! Also not all are created equal, especially when comes to changing the paper. The Super max people have made it very easy, it only takes a couple of minutes to change my paper. Very sappy wood will load it up quickly. I also Highly recommend adding digital readout to both the planer and the drum sander. I use a fair amount of 1/8 wood, You can plane that thin but it gets a bit sketchy. Grain direction is critical or it will explode. I buy rough sawn lumber depending on the width I will joint or plane one side then re-saw leaving a bit of excess, if it will be 1/4 or above I will plane it. Any thing less will go through the drum sander. I have had issues with my planer tearing out chunks on curly maple salvaged by using the Drum sander. My baltic Birch sheets (1/8 and 1/16) are not as smooth as I would like for my ornaments so I used to cut the squares the sand each side on a Sandflee with 220. very time consuming. I now cut a strip and with 220 paper on the drum sander run it through 1 light pass. If the paper is properly installed and tight to the drum I have gone as thin as .040" for some home made veneer.

Could be. But many suppliers/retailers are dealing with these same issues and most aren't hesitant to jack up their prices accordingly. I can understand the strategy of not stocking up on slow moving products at significantly higher prices, but I'm not convinced that BB ply necessarily fits the slow moving description. The place I buy from seems to move a fair amount of it. Probably more 1/2" - 3/4" thick stuff than the thinner stuff scrollers prefer, but they didn't have inventory of any size last time I checked (which has been a while).

fantastic job

Hello Brenda, Very nice to look at, Really sharp routing! Tell me... Was it easy to control the router cutting out the design? You did well Brenda! Thank you for all the imfo you gave, Bob

A memorable gift that will be appreciated, I'm sure

You have realise that these two totally different machines, for totally different purposes. Trying to take the amount of material off that you want to, would take an inordinate amount of time with a drum sander. It would also chew through paper quickly. Even if you tried a coarser paper. you would have to change it for final sanding etc. Both machines compliment each other. Machine the timber down to size on the thicknesser and finish it with the belt sander. However as Kevin has pointed out, to get down to 1 - 3mm you will have to make a sled, or fix the material to another flat board with the sander.

Actually just trying to thin down some of the stock I have. Most all of it is 3/4 to an inch. So I was going to try to get it to 1/8th or 1/16th for some projects I have in mind. And in the back of my mind I was always wondering if a drum sander would work better then my planner. I can send the stock thru the band saw to get close, but after that is what I was thinking the drum sander might be a better choice.

I have a delta 12". I've watched videos where they put down a board for the stock to ride on so you can go thinner, haven't tried that yet. I haven't tried the woodmaster, I'll have to look into them.

What is the planer that you have now? How smooth are the finished boards? Have you considered the multi head units ( woodmaster ) so you could have both? I was looking at a drum sander myself, but when I saw post after post ( lots of different forums ) mentioning that you would still need a final sanding after the DS, I gave up on the idea. I currently have a Bauer 12 1/2" and could be more pleased with it. minimal snipe and a quick sanding schedule and boards are saw ready.

ONYA Charlie. A great pattern and cutting of a beautiful lady.

Fantastic pattern and cutting.

Nice job and great gift!

Love it! Great work

Thank you Sir! I'm pretty sure that he will like it, because he likes everything I have ever given him! Dick

Might be more of a matter of them "saying" they can't get it rather than they can't actually get it.. The prices of the stuff has went way up due to the fact that most of it comes from Russia and they aren't really importing it.. plus before the war they had some wild fires that was preventing them from getting much logging done to source the raw materials.. so the stuff is kind of scarce.. and pricey.. I think if they "really" wanted it they could find it but they likely aren't interested in paying the high price of it.. probably not a huge seller for them so they're waiting it out a while.. I'm just guessing.. My local supplier is kind of doing this.. when they get enough people interested in it they will order a batch of it because they know they won't have to sit on it long.. Paying those high prices and then sitting on a few pallets of it for a year or so they could get burned once production picks up and prices come down.. they could get burned on profits..

Each saw has a different cutting style depending on saw type and brand and also how the saw is set-up.. For example the Excalibur type saws with the short arms at the front of the saw has a more "rocking" motion on the blade, where as a Hawk or Hegner type saw has a more straight up down motion.. I can move from my Hawk to my Excalibur cutting on the same piece using the same blade and the Excalibur is more aggressive and cuts through the wood faster.. even though I have the saw adjusted to get the least amount of blade movement at the table height.. So, that said.. I find that the FD-UR to be a less aggressive cutting blade and I don't care to use them at all on my Hawk.. Only use Pegas blades on the Hawk.. and use either one on the Excalibur depending on what I'm cutting.. Anyway, my point is.. this is another reason why it's important to try sample packs.. getting advice on what blade to use can vary widely just from saw set-up..

Hey Dave and All I did take a chance and order the 1/8 (what I tought was BB) but wasn't. Only Birch and it looks like its like a Thin layer of the Birch and middle looks to be MDF. Like it was mentioned all sheets are FLAT AND it scrolls Great. No tear out on bottom. Don't have info about ordering etc, but I did pay $19 for 10 sheets of 12by12. OH yea this was ordered off of AMAZON. And it is just a tad shy of 1/8 inch.... Anyway this is my 2 cents worth............Danny :+}

I'm curious. If my local hardwood/plywood supplier can't get BB ply and hasn't been able to get it for some time, where are these Internet suppliers getting their stock from?

You know me, I sometimes start a big project and lose interest before finishing.. It had 8 layers. I cut them all out and decided after the first four layer the last four really did not do much for the overall project... It is on my "someday I might finish" shelf along with my wooden gear clock.. and some others. Yours looks great.

I made this for a friend out of 3/4" & 1/2" red oak. The "rings" were all cut from one board. Cut like butter using Pegas #5 mgt.

Yeah, I don't know if the prices are comparable or not from the other places that had been mentioned.. I will say I was very impressed with the quality. All the ply was very smooth, pieces were very flat ( very important for using in the laser machine ). It was actually better quality than the stuff I get locally.. I think locally the storage is out in a out building where it's not climate controlled and if the stack has been there for some time it seems as though the grain gets grainier if that makes any sense, LOL I always have to sand my ply that I get locally but these pieces from Cherokee was really smooth already. Maybe the ply from other places is like Cherokee too I don't know.. I've only bought it from my local supplier other than the one time from Cherokee a couple years ago.

I went back and looked again and you are right.....Their 12x12 precut pack price includes shipping

It looks to me like Cherokee is charging for shipping.

That looks brilliant, we'll done Brenda.

smaller blade would be my suggestion. Check out Steve Goode for a compound cutting jig it helps.

Just finished this one and posted under Bragging Rights. I think it fits the theme real well.