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Just finished cutting this. Pattern by me.

It is my first Thanksgiving pattern, I made it for my customers from US and Canada (as I know these countries celebrate it). In Ukraine we also have Thanksgiving Day, it has the same name, but it is not related to American holiday. In this day we thanked God for the harvest, prosperity in the family and good health. Thanksgiving pattern

Just a shout out to Denny and the great service. I ordered blades Sept 5 Labor day and Sept 9 they were in my Mail box. Now to find time to try them out and see if they can make this old Olsen fan a believer. Thanks Larry

This turned out to be a really fun project. The pattern is from Jim Blume and initially I was a little afraid of it because it looked to be bitmapped. (Sorry, Jim, for doubting your pattern! I should have known better.) Anyway, I was pleasantly surprised on how it turned out. I will add that the photos do not give them justice. These were stack cut using 1/4-inch Oak and Maple ply, both finished with natural stain. The backer is 1/4-inch Pine painted black. They have 6 coats of clear with light sanding with 600 grit between coats. The frames are both framing material stock cut to fit the 13 X 19 backer board. I did re-stain the frames using Weathered Oak on the Oak piece and Expresso on the Maple. A tip to anyone wishing to cut this pattern, there are several areas that will be very delicate. The piece would flex just from handling. Also, be very patient when sanding.

Kevin if you click on the pics, then click on them a second time they blow up to quite a good size, and the table looks almost brand-new. From the pics, I'd hazard guess that it doesn't know the meaning of work

Yes this looks like it could be a decent deal. The tables on these are painted and can be helpful in deciding how much use it has had. Hard to tell in these pictures as they're small and don't give a clean shot of the table top. But you get the idea.. paint worn completely off = well used.. hardly any scratches.. probably lightly used.. Now, not to say they didn't repaint or use a magnet sheet on the table top to prevent scratches.. I'd say the price is right if it appears to have very little wear, heck.. a lot of them bring this or close to it with a lot of wear.. Edit to add: This could be a scammer unless you seen this in Michigan.. The same exact photos of this listing on FB Marketplace have showed up in other cities around the US.. I watch classifieds like a hawk.. so just beware this is all over the USA.. maybe your seller is the right one and someone stole pictures.. I've been watching the same saw for a few weeks now.. they've lower the price recently.. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1082166325729869/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A8eea2547-622f-42c5-b437-0f0275691246

I finally finished this. I found it in a scroll saw book but don’t remember which one. I used worm eaten walnut so there’s a few places hat ended up with a small hole. I used 321 for the finish. I guess it’s another one for the garage wall. There’s no place left in the house. It measures 17x6. Thanks for looking.

Going to buy this saw, just want to check it's one of the good ones. It looks in mint condition with the stand $300. It's a black one but does have made in Taiwan on the plate. I'll take a blade and a scrap of wood to test it, I'd appreciate your input as my knowledge of these is sketchy at best

Bob and of course a “Happy Little Tree.” I used an image I found on Pinterest. I added the tree and changed the font. I connected the face to his hand but it took away from it so I let his face be a floater. I’m convinced watching him paint would lower your blood pressure.

My Hawk runs at 1750 spm.. I don't usually run it full speed.. probably closer to 1500 spm.. My Excalibur runs 1550 or maybe it's 1500 anyway I run that one full speed. My old DW788 run 1700.. I run it most times full speed. The Hawk does pick up a slight vibration at full speed and I've never really "tuned" it for running full speed.. other saws that had picked up vibration at full speed I typically play around with the stand to make it have the vibration free at the speed I like.. You can adjust that "sweet spot" by fooling with the saws stand usually.. I say i run my saws full speed but in reality it's around 1500 spm for those saws that run faster than the 1500 I run it close to that unless it's really smooth at full speed. The point I'm trying to get across is just because the saw is running full speed doesn't mean you "have to cut faster" YOU control the feed rate of the material.. On straight cuts you can go as fast as you like within reason for the blade to keep up.. when you get to those tight corners and turns the saw speed needs to be faster ( for me anyway ) as those tight turns are hard to do slow enough for the blade to not heat up.. so running the saw faster the blade is able to "cut" the corner without burning the corner or heating the blade. Too many people ( I think dang near everyone ) that scroll saw run the saw slow because they cannot keep up with the cut and loose control.. when in reality your just feeding the blade because you're "used to pushing" it through.. relax and let the blade do it's work.. Running the saw faster makes blades actually last longer for me.. This may not work for you.. maybe you need practice in relaxing rather than shoving the material into the blade too hard. This is a point I've mention many of times on here and only one other person ( Jim ) says the same thing.. he like to run the saw fast too and says this same thing.. It has always kind of irritated me because I'm a "production scroller" ( business ) folks think I'm running a race of some sort.. not that at all.. It's just what FD Mike taught me to do and it works if you try it.. It does take some practice.. Kinda like when front wheel drive cars came out.. on slick roads you go into a bit of a slide you hit the gas peddle and the front wheels will pull you in the direction you have them in.. rear wheel drive is the opposite let off the gas peddle.. Seems weird to hit the gas instead.. same with the saw.. sharp corner = more speed.. you feel like you should slow down but nope.. speed the saw up and let the blade do the work.. guide the piece through not shove it through.. EDIT: Pay attention to the blade.. on a long straight cut stop feeding the material from time to time.. If you're flexing the blade you're pushing too hard and either need more blade speed or relax.. eventually playing with blade speed and feed rates over time you'll learn what works better for you.. I think most every scroll sawer feeds the blade too fast based on the comments on these post like this.. Like I say.. YOU are in control of how fast you cut.. not the saw.. though the saw does limit you based on speed.

i did some reading some time ago about selling at craft shows. this is a psychological thing. people tend to stay away from booths with too many different categories of product because it boggles their minds. like going new car shopping at a place that also sells motorcycles, side by sides, boats, snowmobiles..... booths set up with a few different products with different varieties( scrollsaw puzzles, ornaments, portraits) fare better at craft fairs but thats the nature of craft fairs- sell what ya bring. art fairs, otoh, tend to be different. they are typically juried. the operators of the art fairs want vendors that are well organized and dont have many different categories of products.

Today I finished painting this.acrylic paints from the 5 below store. 3/4" plywood 10.75" long

I'm thinking out loud here so please don't take any thing said personally it's just the way my brain works I may be over thinking this but wouldn't a blade running at 750spm remove the same proportionate amount of chips as a blade running at 1500spm being as it's making 2 strokes to the others one? I'm inclined to think whatever speed the blades running the amount of of pressure applied to the wood your cutting would dictate the speed of cut. If the wood does not touch the blade no cutting occurs and the blade stays cool. The more pressure applied to the blade the faster the cut and the more heat is generated untill it reaches it maximum rate of cut when as stated it cannot clear chips fast enough. Just my logic and it may be wrong but it makes sense to me as with all things it's down to personal preference and whatever works for you.

I'd snap it up, if it was within 6 hours or so of me. Taiwan are the goodn's.

Hey Everyone! In this viewer requested video, I give you all the information I have in my head on selecting the best scroll saw blade for your projects! I do my best to talk about the various types of scroll saw blades out their. Hope you all the video and I hope it helps some new Scrollers! #ArtisanPirate

Well I dropped him a line as it's not that far away from me, I'm always careful about buying online, I'd want to drive over and see it and pay cash, no Venmo or such ..... Was also looking at a 40 694 still in the box (Opened) for a couple of hundred near me.

Ok, I had posted in a few replies on other threads that I was learning to hand carve and had taken a one day turning class. Since a few of my carvings were initially cut out on my scroll saw, I figured I would share them here. If anyone is a carver, please let me know. One of my goals in learning to hand carve, was to use it to enhance my scrollsaw projects, in particular, my Intarsia work. I am enjoying carving and turning. I have hand carved 6 pieces now I think. One of them is still a work in progress so not shown. It is based on a JGR Intarsia pattern so I will have to share it later once it is done (The carving part is done, but it has framing I’m trying to work out how I want to do.) They are all cut and carved from basswood. The photos appear in the reverse order from what I carved them meaning Mickey carrying balllons was the last one (6th) which I just completed yesterday and then go back to the larger flower which was the very first attempt. Mickey is also the only one I created my own pattern for from a card I had and did it all on my own with no directions or advise on how. The rest of the pieces are patterns from video tutorials and patterns provided by Mary May. If interested in learning to carve, I have found her tutorials to be great. Mickey, the jack-o-lantern and the butterfly on a flower were all first cut out as flat pieces on my scroll saw then carved. Thus why I feel comfortable sharing here. The two smaller flowers, technically I used my saw on as it was one board I cut in half. The largest flower, done on the round natural board was not on the saw but I threw it in since it was my first attempt. I added some wood burning to the first flower I did and then did wood burning on the butterfly and flower. Mickey and the Jack-o-lantern do not yet have a finish on them. I am probably going to attempt to add color to them once I get a little braver to try that(and find some time.)

Cut out this Steve Good pattern in stages over the course of a few days. 3/4" Select Pine using a variety of Pegas MGT blades. It's interesting - with the blue background the wood (with no finish applied) appears more golden, whereas with a black background the wood appears more white-ish / light colored. Funny, because I'm considering finishing it with amber Shellac.

Getting excited! this is our "Long Island Woodworkers" first show since the Pandemic started. It is also the first time at this venue. All aspects of woodworking will be represented and demonstrated within reason. The scrollers will have saws setup, the turners a couple of lathes with on going demonstrations. I made the Koala's in the middle of the flyer back in 2009. I am really looking forward to seeing what our members have created in the last three years.

Completed this for my wife, only a week late for our anniversary. I did get her flowers and chocies on the day For her desk at school if anything could go wrong with this it did, even to the point of the cat getting in on the photos Radiata Pine and Jarrah E and heart inlaid.

Ray, no sides to be taken lol My last comment may have been misunderstood, for clarity I was trying to say that regardless of the speed of the blade slow or fast the biggest factor of how fast the blade cuts is the pressure on the work peice. That said even if the saw is running fast I'm feeding slowly, I'm not trying to keep up with it I'm just giving the blade as much as I feel comfortable handling, maybe because I'm new to this having the blade running fast forces me to concerntrate on My feed rate.... I don't know I'm a rank armature at this but so far it seems to be working for me. Please forgive me for breaking all the scroll saw rules

I'm not going to take either side. What I will say is that first of all, my saws, none of them, run as smoothly at full speed. The vibration factor enters in and that in itself disturbs me and I don't feel as much in control. I usually find that sweet spot where my saw is running as fast as possible without going into what I call the "shake zone". I try to let the blade do the work and follow along at my comfortable pace. I'm not in this hobby for speed. I'm in it for relaxation and enjoyment. I do not enjoy trying to "keep up" with the saws speed. I've learned how to make the sharp corners by relaxing the forward pressure and transferring that pressure to the back side of the blade while at the same time turning the work piece. Another thing I've learned is that "muscle memory" goes away very quickly. If I am not cutting on a semi-daily basis, I lose some of the memory and so I always warm up with a practice piece just to get everything working again.

That one is from back when General International was selling them... Should be a good one.

You are one of the folks of many on here that I really respect your advice and comments but I would disagree with this one. If your blades turn blue it's because of a. you're pushing to hard through the piece b. blade tension too loose allowing blade to flex enough to touch the sides of the wood c. you're pushing the wood off to one side or the other You should be able to saw at a slow speed and make a kerf.. back up slightly and turn your saw up to full speed and hold the board in the same spot so it doesn't tough the wood sides.. that blade could set there and run all day without burning the wood.. run that test and see if that's true.. you don't need to run it all day as that'd be boring but you get the idea.. only takes a few seconds to burn the blade or wood when it's at full speed.. Can't think of his last name but Mike ( that used to own the Mikesworkshop Flying Dutchman scroll saw blades sales site that supplied blades to many of us up until he passed ) is the one that told / taught me this.. Of coarse.. the saw being very well tuned will also make a difference.. If you have the blade in the top clamp off to the left side and the one in the bottom clamp off the the right side that blade gonna touch the wood as it moves.. Why tuning a saw is very important, that blade needs to be going straight up / down.. I also would disagree with the theory of the saw wearing out faster.. It's nothing like a car where a car has a combustion engine.. therefore the engine isn't always running 100% clean.. a combustion doesn't fully fire and burn off every bit of the fuel and the oil gets contaminated either through that or contaminates through the air intake system.. all this happens whether you run 600rpm or 6000rpm.. at the higher rpm it of coarse sucks in more air and fires more fuel in the given time hour / miles etc. A better analogy might be a wheel bearing.. that wheel bearing gonna go however many miles it's going to go whether it's going 10mph or 100mph.. doesn't matter to the bearing. Now there are other factors with a wheel bearing if you want to get tech about it like thrust from cornering etc.. but assuming its just going straight like the scroll saw blade should be fed straight.. At the end of the day.. if one is more efficiently cutting with the saw at full speed rather than half speed the important thing is what works easier and more efficient for the person sitting / standing at the saw.. whether it's slow speed or fast speed you have to do you.. That being said Mike worked with me through emails and helped me find that I was running the saw too slow.. You can burn by running too fast or too slow.. you just have to relax and let the blade do the work.. Full speed may not work for everyone.. as does the slowest speed. When you get experience with relaxing and letting the blade do the work and controlling the speed by how fast you feed the wood to the blade that saw can run at full speed without burning the wood.. With the tight corners that everyone seems to struggle with in the beginning.. the issue is if the saw is running slow and you turn the corner too fast you're heating the blade.. a very common issue with the struggle as to me it's pretty hard to turn those corners at the very slow speed.. with the faster speed the blade actually cuts the corner better as it's running faster.. either case if you're good at doing the corners slow then don't speed up the saw.. but if you're struggling then try playing with saw speed.. Mike told me most folks don't run the saw fast enough so he was the one to have me speed up the saw for those dreaded corners.. It worked for me.. may not for others as everyone is different..

Delta is not good at parts & service. Caution.

“God Created Men and Sam Colt Made Them Equal!” ....... Oh, wait..... That kind of colt. Nicely done!

With experience, you will find that running at full speed causes your saw to wear out faster, and your blades to overheat and break faster. If your blades are turning blue, you are running the saw too fast, overheating the blade and making it dull and break faster. Tiny blade teeth can only remove the amount of wood that fits in their gullets. They have to clear this wood before they can cut any more wood. Scroll sawing is a journey, not a destination. Enjoy the journey, cutting as accurately and cleanly as you can. Treat project completion as a surprise and not something that is a race to get there. There is always another project more interesting than the past, so enjoy the journey, and then the next journey. Take care of your saw and it will last through many journeys. Beat the stuffing out of it and you will be complaining about what a lousy saw it was in a year or two, when it should have lasted 10 or more years. If you drive your car at it's maximum speed, it won't last long either. Charley

Great job. I really like the frames too. Perfect satin.

I can totally relate to this, being a beginner I've struggled with it but didn't want to be "nibbling froever I sat down for a while with a couple of 12x12 scrap plywood pieces cutting lots of little squares untill it clicked. KKMCrafts thanks you have just improved my scrolling . Here I am trying to find the sweet spot for my Hawk and I just turn it up to full speed and concerntrate on My feed rate! and a lot of my problems corrected themselves. More topics like this one for us newbies ....lol

Just found this. Hope it links: https://youtu.be/bQlhqFagZu0

Thank you everyone.

Dan - ya da MAN! Find an art gallery - it's that good!

I enjoyed watching him!

That is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen! It takes my breath away!

Outstanding- too beautiful for the garage wall.

Thanks John. Of the two, I'm partial to the top (Maple) piece. Both turned out better than I expected but there is something about the frame on the Maple that pleases my eyes. And as far as "Click Bang" X 2, I'm actually cutting a Steve Good pattern right now that is really "A Pair of Colts" in the .45 cal. category.

I have a streaming service for TV viewing and it has "The Bob Ross" channel! And from the lighter side, there is an MMA fighter with red hair just like B Ross and his nickname is the Violent Bob Ross. (That may be a bit like Jumbo Shrimp) luv oxymorons

Beautiful seems to be the word of the day and I couldn't agree more. That is some very fine scrolling.

Beautiful pattern, cutting, and wood.

Nice!!

I will do what I can on the pictures. I think there will be a $16 entry fee which is for the museum no additional charge for our show . Parking is free. Club members are free, at least those of us that are working it.

Those shows were taped about six miles from my house. The local museum spent a lot of time, effort and money to reconstruct the studio and turn it into a walk through exhibit. Old cameras, TV sets, furnishings, etc.

A great bunch Melanie, I think "Jill of all trades" is what you are looking for:) The extent of my carving was to do a couple of simple rosettes for a piece of furniture I was repairing.

Looks awesome, congrats on a job very well done!! The scalloped edges really add to the overall piece! Chris

great work. love it.

Beautiful!

I definitely prefer to keep it fun myself. Take care Kevin.

Sounds like a business opportunity to me.

I think signs would do well IF they're custom signs.. not the generic funny phrases type of signs.. but that said I also imagine that those signs are needed to be displayed at a show in order to get those custom ordered ones.. Scroll sawn work is unique and much of it is quite difficult to do on a CNC but a laser on the other hand for thin stock, ie ornaments and portrait stuff could easily be done on a laser cutter.. BUT stack cutting ornaments with a scroll saw is faster than cutting on the lower priced lasers.. many folks aren't spending $6000 +for a machine that's capable of production type cutting that would be needed to be able to keep up with me stack cutting. Seems like there is a lot of folks at these shows with laser and cnc work.. and that maybe the market is getting a bit saturated with sign makers etc. That maybe just the area I'm in. I feel like scroll work is more unique which makes me wonder if being a vendor at a event would rally up maybe more business than those laser and cnc vendors in part because there seems to be a lot of competition with the more saturated market. It takes skill in both cases but I feel like there are a lot of computer graphics people out there that can easily make the things I see that are laser and cnc'd and not nearly as many skilled hands on makers.. All that being said.. there are a lot of consumers out there that really don't care "how it was made " they're buying the piece because they like it not for the fact that one is hands on and the other is computer run.. and many wouldn't know the difference anyway.

Amazing job with the paint. You just keep rocking on young man!