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  1. Eplfan2011

    Eplfan2011

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      474


  2. amazingkevin

    amazingkevin

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  3. scrollerpete

    scrollerpete

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  4. Denny Knappen

    Denny Knappen

    SSV Silver Patron


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/07/2022 in all areas

  1. Been vegetating to much. Not worth my salt lately. But found some time to make sawdust.
    11 points
  2. 11 points
  3. I've posted these elsewhere but..,
    10 points
  4. Here’s my collection. Some scroll saw related, some not.
    4 points
  5. Sorry, I don't do spooky, but I did this one back in 2014.
    4 points
  6. These are cuttings (and one wood-burn box) I have done over the past 10 years.
    4 points
  7. Denny Knappen

    Shane Shack

    A custom project finished yesterday. I had design help from Don in Brooklin On. The overlay is 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and backed with 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood stained black. It is 4" x 16". Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #1R MGT blades. The finish is two coats Minwax spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.
    3 points
  8. Here are a few projects using the adding color to scrolling process..................NO painting.........and Pigs really can fly !
    3 points
  9. CharleyL

    New old saw

    A small aquarium air pump works great if you can't find a replacement bellows for your saw. Wire it and the saw to both run from a foot switch and it will only run when you are running the saw. Charley
    2 points
  10. A number of vacs have the same feature or you can by an auto turn on switch. Because a scroll saw produces mostly very fine dust, I use my HEPA Festool on it and rigid vac on other shop small tools. My router table and all large tools are hooked up to a Oneida dust collector.
    2 points
  11. Good to hear what worked for you,Epifan!!!
    2 points
  12. We're still always in the learning stages,lol
    2 points
  13. Thanks for looking,Don!!!
    2 points
  14. OCtoolguy

    Excalibur Rebuild

    Be aware that that nut shown is a left hand thread.
    2 points
  15. The problem with that is the track saw and router are festool too, and it tool triggered and designed to work and fit the vac ... Don't want to go back to turning the vac on use the tool turn it off...and trying to find hoses to fit the tools. That defeats the reason I bought them in the first place.
    2 points
  16. Here is a couple I forgot.........
    2 points
  17. Here's my entry. I made these last year. But this year, I made a tutorial on how to make these fun Jack-O-Lanterns. I posted the video and the article in the Project Workshop area. Pattern is free for SSV Patrons. It uses a standard cedar fence board, so it's super cheap to make. Plus, they're really seem to be crowd pleasers. Hardly anything to the scroll sawing. Super easy.
    2 points
  18. Here is a fun little project you can knock out in an afternoon. These little wooden jack-o-lanterns will certainly delight and add some spooky decor to your house this Halloween. This project is made from cedar fence boards, so they're super cheap to make, and they look great! Step 1 I'm using cedar fence boards. Not only are they super cheap (between $3-4 per board) they have a rough-sawn look that will really make the project look great! The cedar fence boards have little fuzzies on them. Using 80 grit sandpaper, I knock off those fuzzies. I don't want to get it too smooth. The character of the uneven surface and milling marks is what makes this project sand out. Step 2 I'm cutting down each of the panels on the table saw. You can certainly cut out the panels with your scroll saw using the full-sized drawings in the pattern. I'm making 2 jack-o-lanterns, so I doubled the number of panels I need. For each pumpkin, I need two of each of the following: Top & Bottom 5.5"x5.5" Front & Back 4.5" x 6" Sides 3.5"x6" Caps & Inset 3.5"x3.5" Step 3 I like to paint the inside of the jack-o-lanterns so it reflects the light better. It's easier to paint them now than later. For the front and pack panels, I'm taping up the edge. I don't want any paint on these edges, since it will be visible on the outside. Step 4 I'm giving it a quick coat of white primer, followed by a quick coat of yellow spraypaint. I don't worry too much about perfect coverage. In fact, it looks better when there is variation in the coverage. Step 5 I grab my front panel and attach my scroll saw pattern to it. I use spray adhesive on the back of the pattern, then stick it to the front. Step 6 At the drill press, I make pilot holes for the blade to fee through. You can also use a regular hand drill. Step 7 These patterns are really easy, and you'll be able to knock these out in a few minutes. I'm using a #3 scroll reverse blade. Step 8 Time for assembly. I'm using standard wood glue and brad nails to pin it together. You can also use regular hammer and nails. Just be careful not to split the wood. Step 9 For the bottom, II put the box on the bottom panel and trace around it. I'll use this as a guide so I know where to put my brad nails into. I don't do any measuring, just eyeball it. Step 10 With the traced side facing up, I lay down a bit of glue. I know where the perimeter of the box is, so I know where to drive my nails into. Step 11 The inset is supposed to fit inside the box so the lid nestles in nicely. This will be a bit too big and will require some trimming. Just trim off a little on each end until it fits. I don't like it too tight, just enough where it will settle in nicely. Step 12 I glued and sandwiched the top panel between the inset and the cap piece. The cap is only decorative. I didn't bother nailing this one. I just put a little weight on the top and let the glue dry. Step 13 With a propane torch, I went outside and scorched the box. This is a lot of fun and will make your jack-o-lantern look awesome. Keep the flame moving, or you'll get uneven scorch marks. Step 14 I'm using a water based stain from Minwax I got at the big-box store. They can tint the stain any color you want. Naturally, I chose pumpkin orange. I applied the stain fairly heavy, then when I was done with the side, I quickly removed the excess with a paper towel. For the face, I dabbed on the stain, trying hard not to get it into the cuts. I found it easiest to work on one side at a time. Apply stain, then quickly wipe it away. Step 15 I found a stick outside and started stripping away the bark. We'll use this as our stem on our pumpkins. I like to find interesting parts of the stick, just to add a bit of interest. Step 16 On the scroll saw, I trimmed off sections of the stick to make the stem. I also sanded the bottom edge on a belt sander to get it flat. Step 17 I drilled a hole through the top of the box. I also drilled a pilot hole into the bottom of the stem. I'll attach the stem with a screw that goes through the bottom of the box and into the stem. Step 18 I painted the stem with regular craft paint. I painted it on and quickly wiped off the paint with a paper towel before it dried. This gives the stem a stained look and you can still see the wood grain. Once dried, I attached the stem to the lid with a screw from below. I also tied a bit of raffia around the base of the stem for a little extra pizzazz. Step 19 I'm using battery-powered fairy lights. I like this set because it had different displays, as well as a remote and timer. I've put a link to the ones I got here. Happy Halloween! Final Project
    1 point
  19. Howdy! I've been scroll sawing for a handful of years on my DW788. I started out with 2D patterns from Steve Good, moved to some fun boxes, and am mostly cutting compound ornaments when I can get to the saw. I also have an ever growing inventory of patterns and books on the hobby. I enjoy gifting whatever I cut, and always move back to the garage as Christmas approaches. Looking forward to hanging out here a bit and learning from the community.
    1 point
  20. Badgerboy

    Pegas question

    I am having challenges with the big black parallelism adjustment knob on my Pegas moving after an hour or so of cutting. The table is flat and level and it passes the standing nickel test for vibration. After I have verified and set upper arm parallelism lock in a blade and start cutting I eventually notice the knob has moved after an hour or so. Parallelism is gone and I need to go back through the process. Which nut or bolt needs to be retightened to eliminate this problem? Thanks for the help
    1 point
  21. Millwab

    New old saw

    I was able to pick up an old Hegner Multimax 2 for $50. The only thing I can find wrong with it is that the bellows needs to be replaced. I checked the Advanced Machinery website but they don’t appear to offer a replacement. Any suggestions?
    1 point
  22. Well, you can do the review. We'll all be waiting. At this point, I don't need another vac but if my Ridgid ever dies, I'll be thinking about that one. I use the Ridgid out on my driveway primarily for my table saw and router table. It's big and noisy. I have a Dusttopper hooked to it also. The Fein in my shop has a DD on it and both of my Excaliburs have onboard systems running the little Metrovac500's and a mini-cyclone in a 3 lb. coffee can. They can be rolled anywhere and have dust control on them. I'm going to do the same thing to my Hegner but I'll use an Oreck handheld on it.
    1 point
  23. kmmcrafts

    Pegas question

    Common issue with these type of saws. I had the same issue with my excalibur a few years ago. I'm not sure how to search for the topics but there are a few of them out there.. Most people fix it with a simple rubber band and wrap it around in a way to hold it from spinning. I took my saw apart and put a little blue colored loc-tite thread locker on the threads and put it back together.. been good for about 3 year or so now.. Here is a link to when I rebuilt my saw and there is a section on July 20th in that topic ( first page of the topic about half way down the page ) where I show pictures of the threaded block and how I put the blue stuff on the threads.. If you choose to go this route to solve the issue.. It's a bit of a job but as I said.. some use a rubber band.
    1 point
  24. Exactly ! It doesn't need to be festool standard, just needs to be quiet and have enough "suck" for what I need. I have a DD to attach and with a bag in it dust shouldn't be a problem. I think I'm going to pull the trigger on it on Amazon give it a whirl.
    1 point
  25. Lucked out on Ian this time. Thanks for looking Chelcass
    1 point
  26. Here's a YouTube video ....Ray Maybe it's not called that but when I first saw it that's what they called it But I've seen them on Amazon and other sites too
    1 point
  27. OCtoolguy

    New old saw

    I replaced 2 of them using CV boots. Worked great. Just get the measurements at top and bottom and go looking. I can't recall what I used. I'll do some research and try to find my Amazon purchase. BRB. Here ya go. Kit Empi 86-2340D from Amazon was under $20.
    1 point
  28. My basement shop is relatively small and the my Festool Midi has a very long cord, so when I need to use it for my RO or track saw I can just wheel it into the adjoining room. I run the Festool at low to mid range. I added the trap a must with all of the small pieces I cut. As you can see it catches a lot of stuff. I also added the union (swivel) so that I can easily swing the upper tube out of the way without messing with its adjustment. The picture of my suction tubes is an old one before I added the trap and swivel. the whole assembly is attached to my Hawk with a couple of Mag switches. So I can move the whole assembly to my EX 16 which I use for most of my smaller projects.
    1 point
  29. Glad to see you’ve been doing some work. We all have good days and bad days, hope you are having more good ones then bad. Remember, time on the saw will make any day better. Good to see you Kevin, we worry when you take extended breaks.
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. Looking good Kevin. We were worried if Ian hit your area. Glad you are safe.
    1 point
  32. I wanted to layout the board to visualize the cuts. I did this and it takes 42 inches of board.
    1 point
  33. Interesting explanation!!!
    1 point
  34. As usual you are on point again!!!
    1 point
  35. It's a basement bedroom, my house is a tri-level RJ. All the kids have left home so I thought I'd put it to good use. I only started scrolling a couple of months ago so it's kind of new and unorganized right now, but it will be warm in the winter !
    1 point
  36. I would put the Festool on the scroll saw and use something noise on the router and track saw. Who cares how noisy the vac is with a router or saw??
    1 point
  37. Very nice, you have a scroll saw room in the house, RJ
    1 point
  38. Festool vac is pretty quiet Ray but I do most of my saw and router cutting in the garage and It's dedicated to the track saw/ router. I don't want to be carrying it in and out all the time. I do have a dust collector out there for the table saw and planer but it's useless for the small tools. At $165 bucks it's not expensive for the convenience of having it dedicated to the scroll saw room in the house.
    1 point
  39. I will be darned if I don't create at least one of these this weekend. Thank you for the idea!
    1 point
  40. Mrlour

    Fence Board Jack-O-Lanterns

    Great job!! Thanks for posting.
    1 point
  41. Here is mine: There are many other patterns in this style here: Copy and paste the link below Thanks for looking https://rampwalkertoys.sellfy.store/ You will also find a few in the Scrollsaw Woodworking & Craft magazine issues #82 and #85 and more in the newest issue #89. Our very own @Rolf ROLF B. did the cutting for the magazine - well done I may add Fab4 VIDEO-2021-11-08-10-12-57 bat.mp4
    1 point
  42. Hummm, don't pay much attention to Halloween since the kids grew up and left home, Where we live we do not get trick or treat-ers. So it is just another night. The only thing I have ever done halloween-ish is this pen. I can show it because the bats were cut with a scroll saw. The scariest part is my shop friend Zelda, checking it out.
    1 point
  43. Most recent "scary" cut was H.Botas' pirate skull. It just checked all the right boxes for me, and was a fun cut. The pirate owl (cuz why not?) and wolf were fun as well, and the six cuts are my standard Halloween decorations at work (pirate skull has been added to that group now as well). Not sure if there's any defining "requirements" as to why I cut what I cut. Its just gotta hit me the right way in whatever emotion it evokes.
    1 point
  44. Here are some Steve Good patterns that I had cut.
    1 point
  45. I can totally relate to this, being a beginner I've struggled with it but didn't want to be "nibbling froever I sat down for a while with a couple of 12x12 scrap plywood pieces cutting lots of little squares untill it clicked. KKMCrafts thanks you have just improved my scrolling . Here I am trying to find the sweet spot for my Hawk and I just turn it up to full speed and concerntrate on My feed rate! and a lot of my problems corrected themselves. More topics like this one for us newbies ....lol
    1 point
  46. My daughter taught me how many years ago.. The worked for a guy that sold the little plywood flags and thing the craft people bought to decorate. Can't say why she worked two jobs for a while, might seem political. But she cut those little things and other things for about 4 hours every evening. He got real fast at it and was good. When I started scrolling she taught me how to do corners like that. I'm still not as fast at it as she was.
    1 point
  47. I think that inside and outside sharp corners are probably one of the most common struggles most every scroller has. I have found a couple things that helped me was blade choice and speed of the saw. For years I used to saw up to the line for a inside corner and then back up slightly and shave another bit of wood off then turn.. I was using FD-UR blades at that time.. but with the blade design you have reverse teeth throughout the length of the blade so sharp corners are tough to do with them ( for me anyway ) A SR blade worked better.. but someone ( Mike who sold the blades ) told me to play around with saw speed, he thought I might need more saw speed.. I used to run the saw back in those days around half the speed on the dial.. I cranked it up to 3/4 and the corners was easier so I tried full speed and that worked for me.. I rarely turn a saw speed down these days.. what I had learned from that is that I was pushing the wood though too hard.. I like cutting a bit faster than many "maybe" because honestly I don't cut any faster but rather I just let the blade do the cutting.. Lot of people think saw speed is related to how fast you "have to cut" and it's not.. I get a cleaner cut on the edges, back side of the project etc.. by having saw speed fast and then just feeding the wood through it as fast as I'm comfortable to cut.. If you turn your saw speed up and it's cutting too fast it's not the saw.. it's "YOU" feeding it too fast.. you don't have to "shove" the piece through to keep up with the saw blade.. In turn you're letting the blade cut and clean itself out thus it's not running hot and burning the wood.. blades also last much longer when you're not "pushing" them through.. You can run the saw full speed in the middle of a kerf and not burn the wood.. If you have the wood getting burned it's not the saw speed or blade.. it's you pushing too fast for the blade to clean out the cut sawdust OR you're pushing off to one side or the other etc.. that blade can run all day in the kerf full speed so long as there is a slight gap around it.. once you push too hard or have it rubbing the side you get burns..
    1 point
  48. Thanks for that insight Kevin (and of course Travis)
    1 point
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