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Woohoo. I got my books today from Amazon. I saved $184 on postage thanks to Amazon. Now all I have to do is find time to cut some great new projects. Marg

I made Ham Shack plaques for 2 of my good friends as a gift for help they freely gave in times of need. I am working on another for myself. I used 1/2" Poplar finished with Zinser Shellac spray. I saw this posted here on the Village website. I think it was @Danwho had posted it. Thank you Dan, they were a big hit with both Monty and Mike.

Hey everyone, Joined the village a couple of days ago, here are my latest creations. Still a lot to learn but enjoying the journey ! Regards, Alan. .

Scroll saw basket per Steve Good pattern. I added extra layers to make it taller and alternated woods, walnut and poplar. I intentionally did not put the ring on top per my lady's request.

Did an easy cutting of Alfred today using a free stencil that I tinkered with a bit. Sometimes when you hold on to those ugly pieces of wood a use for them turns up. Happy October!!!

I made these Steve Good Ball Ornaments for our Christmas Tree this year. Steve designed them for a Laser cutter, but they were easy to cut on a Scroll Saw. I used a lot of 3/32” solid core Maple ply cut offs. Repeated pieces were stack cut. Small details were cut with Pegas #2/0 spiral and long curves and rounds cut with Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Images were hand painted with Artist Acrylic Paints after sealing with a Krylon Spray Sealer. I did a dry fit ups of each ornament to insure all fit before glueing. Where some tab openings were too tight, I adjusted them with a small flat file. I then used Locktite Superglue Gel for assembly. After assembly, each ornament was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. A few personal notes here: Using a plywood for these ornaments was OK as they are just for our tree, and only come out for the month of December. However, they would look much better if a solid wood was used. Also, I would have prefered Images that were viewable from both sides. The word NOEL on two of the Onaments makes the opposite view read wrong, but that is just being very picky on my part. And BTW, the center Image piece would make nice flat ornamentss just by themselves . Comments and critiques always welcome.

Here is my latest puzzle. I got the idea from a Pintrest post. I cut and painted this before getting crook, just took some pics and decided it was time to post. I have about a dozen tray puzzles in various stages of completion in the shed. Will post those when finished. This shrink wrapped, I normally take pics before wrapping. Cut from 30mm Radiata Pine

interesting and thanks for the post. I got a Pegas a few months ago and at some point not long after saw a post about putting a piece of tape on the back knob and taping it to the arm to keep the knob from moving. I've done that and so far, no problem. No sign of the tape stretching or being pulled loose. But I'll keep looking out for what you are describing. Overall, very happy with the Pegas thus far - and I've put several hours on it - and look forward to many more.

This Sue Mey pattern caught my eye. Made out of birch and cedar scraps. Linseed oil on most but the colorful one has oak stain on the front part. I think I light the white light one best.

I have done two soldiers and a plaque so this might be of interest too

I personally think if someone could put a bug into the manufactures ears to coat the threads with blue thread locker.. there probably would never be an issue.. I put around 200 hours on my saw before I took it apart for rebuild.. maybe it was 300 ish? anyway.. I had issues with the knob turning by itself within the first 100 ish hours.. Thread locker on the threads and since the rebuild the saw has had 453 more hours added.. no issues at all with that.. IF they did this from the get go I see no reason why they'd do it at all for a weekend hobby type running the saw for many years.. that's just my opinion based on what I did to fix the issues a few years back.. so take that with a grain of salt.. Just feel if it had that on the threads from the beginning.. also feel like the manufacture should and could make the upper arm parallel before they get boxed up.. no reason that I can see as to why this stuff couldn't be set up this far.. yes you may want to move the motor for a blade aggression of your style but no matter the blade aggression the arm is to be parallel for the initial set up. I see no reason to move that arm once it's parallel so what's the purpose of even having the adjustment.. Maybe some weird cutting style that I haven't done yet but I've never had to touch that knob ever other than because it kept moving on its own.. I realize maybe wear and tare might require a slight adjustment after many hours / years of use..

That's usually the answer to how something is done so well. Multiple coats, lots of sanding in between, blah blah blah. Where's the product that does all sides at once with a perfect finish the first time. Paint, sandpaper, lacquer, I can buy. Patience is my downfall.

Easiest way to antique it would be to leave it out there another 10 years.

Hi everyone, Just joined the Scrollsaw Village today. My name is Alan and I live in a small village North of Sheffield in the UK. Got into scrolling about 4 years ago and am really enjoying it. I use an Axminster Trade AT535SS scrollsaw which I believe is basically an Excalibur but with the Pegas blade clamps and am really happy with it. Mostly make small wooden animals, plaques, boxes, trivets and bowls. My other interest is wildlife photography. Looking forward to seeing the things you other guys make and hope to gain knowledge from you more experienced scrollers ! Take care and best regards, Alan.

Been vegetating to much. Not worth my salt lately. But found some time to make sawdust.

Hello, my last cut is a Lynx or a Bobcat, I don't know, but I loved cutting them. I made the pattern from a photo. I used oak wood thickness: 0.393 (10 mm) length: 8.661 (220 mm) width: 7.086 (18 cm) I hope you enjoy. Eric

Howdy Folks, I scored a Delta 40-694 from Offer Up for $150 that a lady had used twice and was too scared to continue. I'm new to scroll sawing, and everything had worked great out of the gate. Then I tried to cut a 2" block to rough out a shape for carving, definitely with the wrong type of blade for that. Ended up with the blade getting hung up, then all chaos ensued as it just slammed all over until the blade broke and I remembered where the off switch was. Since then, I can't seem to get new blades tight; when I put the blade on the tightening mechanism will bottom out and the blade has some play, whereas before this mishap I would have a tight blade probably at number 3. I went through the manual online and it doesn't really address this scenario. Anyone have an idea what might be going on/what I can fix to get a tight blade again? Thanks in advance for any assistance, really appreciate it.

Paul, I bought that same one. I have a 2.5 gal compressor that was given to me. I turned the regulator down to 20 psi and hooked up the air brush. It blew air as it should. You regulate the paint by turning the brass not that is on the jar top. Not the one on the airbrush. Mine blows air just fine and it takes quite a while before the compressor kicks in to replenish the tank. An airbrush compressor has no tank generally so I think your compressor should work fine. You have a blockage somewhere. I upgraded the air hose by buying a package at H/F that had the hose and also an air fitting that I needed to adapt to the quick disconnect on the compressor. I also purchased from Amazon another package of fittings that gave me a quick connect to the airbrush. These are the two things that I bought extra. Harbor Freight hose and fitting: https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-x-10-ft-braided-nylon-airbrush-hose-69578.html Amazon air fitting set: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VDSKGS2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

First, Welcome to the village! I would do as Roberta mentioned and make sure you have the tension lever moved into the lowest tension position. Also you mentioned that the blade grabbed your board and bounced around so it may have bumped up the upper arm a little. The upper arm I believe on this saw raises up out of the way for easier blade changes etc. so I would raise it up some and then drop it down to be sure it's in the full down position.

Frank, those are some very nice ornaments, there can be an issue with making them out of solid wood. The solid wood has to be so thin, that the ornaments are very fragile. Whereas, the plywood ones can be thrown up against a wall and not break. I know this from personal experience, I've made both types in the past. What I found that works perfect, is, to glue up my own plywood out veneers. By making them this way, you don't hardly notice the cross grain of the center layer when finished. I have 9 different types of veneer, and I don't paint my ornaments. I like for the different natural veneer colors, to show off their natural colors. I usually finish my ornaments in a gloss finish, I find that the gloss look, looks better on the tree. Len

Yep, I have done that before.

Did you check to see that the tension is released, off, before you begin to insert the new blade? Don’t ask me how I know this might be the problem.

yep, as I stated, I tried straight water, This is the $10 cheapie from Harbor Freight. I does get good reviews. The lady that checked me out, well she did not "check me out" I'm an old man, she took my money and gave a me a receipt, She said she had a couple of them and she used them of decorating cakes. She loved hers. I kind think I may need to rethink my compressor. It may only hold a blast of are then pressure drops quickly.. Okay for my little nail gun, but maybe not enough constant air for an air brush. I think I have another air brush somewhere I purchased a long time ago, I will try and is no joy there I will give my bigger compressor.

Chris, first welcome to the forum, and second, sorry I can not help. I haver never worked with a Delta. I here they are very similar to the Dewalt saw. There is a set of Pagas blade clamps that work on the Dewalt, I believe, If and if it is determeined you need new clamps, that may be the way to go. Hang on here , you will get more information soon. There are other scrollers here that have that saw. They can provide better info than I can. Just checked and yep there is a set of pegas clamps for the Delta and Dewalt. We have a member that sells them. Great guy to deal with. @Denny Knappen. Don't rush, wait for others to chime in.

Test it first by putting straight water in the paint bowl. It should spray clear water. That will suggest what to look for next.

Is your airbrush a single or double action? With a single, you get air and paint at the same time. Using a double-action airbrush, you must press down and pull back. Your airbrush tip could be clogged. Acrylics can dry very fast in some conditions. Clean the airbrush to be sure it is not clogged, and then try spraying water or solvent through it. The difference between a single and double-action airbrush is the paint delivery mechanism. A single-action airbrush delivers paint with only the press of a button. A double-action airbrush only lets air pass through when you press down on the trigger. It begins to let paint through when you slide the trigger back and allows more through as you pull the trigger back further. This allows you to adjust the size of the paint stream and the amount of paint passing through your brush as you paint. The ability to do this is the primary advantage of a double-action airbrush over a single-action airbrush.

Trouble shooting 101 - Good suggestion! I'll try to remember it if this ever happens to me.

My daughter would love it, she is a massive Hitchcock fan, her favorite is Rear Window. Fabulous work Charlie, it is picture perfect. Marg

Ah yes, another blast from the past. He had a knack for suspense!

Ernest T was one of my favorites as well. Although it seemed like more, I believe he was only in 6 episodes. He also directed several.

Great cutting! How big and what type of wood?

very nice

Thanks for the warm welcome! Here are a handful of compound cuts I've produced in the last few months. The candle is a favorite pattern of mine and I cut it in the last few days after joining the forum. Building a jig to has helped with the consistency quite a bit. I like cutting other people's patterns but look forward to designing and finishing my own projects. (I plan to give away several of the little birdhouses once I figure out how to finish them.)

A custom project finished yesterday. I had design help from Don in Brooklin On. The overlay is 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood and backed with 3/8" Baltic Birch plywood stained black. It is 4" x 16". Cut on the Pegas scroll saw using Pegas #1R MGT blades. The finish is two coats Minwax spray Lacquer Clear Satin with sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

Mr. Bones also made for my grandson.

I have not posted for a while, but am still alive and cutting. Here are few of my latest. First two are Jim Blume patters and the Lord's Prayer is from Sue Mey on more of my reclaimed maple. Jeff

I did this project with my airbrush. The pieces are all beveled inlay and spray painted individually before assembly. The finish and uniformity was far superior to what I could do with a brush. I used Acrylics, some where already thinned for air brush use. But I did buy this stuff Vallejo Airbrush Thinner 200ml Paint a couple of drops mixed into the paint will really help with the flow. This stuff is also great for cleaning the gun. Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner (16 Oz.) And yes the clean up is a pain.

thought you might like a story that happened to me. Out Lions club has a small park open to the public. Every few years we paint the tables, pavillion. and shed. They had been doing it with brushes and it took a work crew 2 days to paint everything. So I bought the $19 paint spray gun at HF and brought my HF air compressor. We mixed the latex paint with water as the instructions said and went to town. I couldn't believe how far it sprayed or how fast I got coverage. I have most of the tables painted before noon. A buddy wanted to try painting and he painted the pavilion supports and ends in short order. His 18 yr old daughter wanted to try it, so he handed the spray gun to her. As he did so, I noticed the bottom of the screw on paint can was no longer dished in but dished out. Within a second or two the can cracked and spewed paint all over the girl. Medium blue latex. She looked like one of the Blue Men musical group. We shut the compressor down and one of the members, who works on and paints old cars said, how high did you set the pressure? Then he said, "I see by the puzzled looks that you did not reduce the pressure." The daughter was hosed off immediately and we got about 85% of it off her. Then she was driven home, in the back of Dad's truck where she got in the shower. The mother wasn't too happy over the blue residue in her egg shell white shower stall.

I'm thinking the same Kev. I also bought that cheapo set with 5 bottles so I should have all bases covered. I'm trying to decide on a compressor and I like the idea of having one with a tank to keep the cycling down. I know when it does run that it will run longer. The Zeny at $87 is pretty nice and was recommended. I'm also looking at a Wagner folding booth. All I will need is space and that is a constant battle.

I don't have much experience with air brushes, my older brother had a nice set for doing custom work on cars back in the 70's that i used to play with on my bicycles, LOL Coming from a spray gun perspective from the old siphon feed days to going to the newer HVLP gravity feed spray guns I have to say I like the gravity feed stuff way better.. you can mix just enough paint and not have to worry about keeping enough in the cup to keep it from sucking some air and spitting etc.. plus there is very little to no paint waisted since you can spray it out until it's dry.. always had to keep a ounce or so in the bottom of a siphon feed to toss out.. I don't know if the air brush is the same way or not and I highly doubt you're going to be working with some of the auto paints that can be $200 on ounce too so your waist would be minimal compared to what I work with on car paints. LOL. But if you get the gravity feed you may save yourself from having it suck up some air and mess up your paint job is what I'm getting at.. again.. don't know much about the air brushes.. may not be like that just a thought I guess and if I were buying a set I think I'd go with a gravity feed set up.. unless research says otherwise..

I have a large collection of airbrushes from cheap china ones to Made in USA Badger airbrushes. If I could only have one it would be the Badger 155 Anthem.

I finally finished this. I found it in a scroll saw book but don’t remember which one. I used worm eaten walnut so there’s a few places hat ended up with a small hole. I used 321 for the finish. I guess it’s another one for the garage wall. There’s no place left in the house. It measures 17x6. Thanks for looking.

My new cross "God bless this home", 4 layers, recommended size 7 x 9 inches, 1/8-1/6 inches. It is my 15th cross, all patterns at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Steve Carell and Rainn Wilson as Michael Scott and Dwight Schrute from The Office.

Lovely. Everyone will be asking who Leon is. Marg

I cut this wood art portrait of John Wayne last week.

I like items with a purpose and compound cutting, so years ago (actually January 2017), I made a compound cut Air Plant Holder. This is a Sue Mey pattern. The second picture is from the customer that purchased to item. What a fun category.