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This don't happen to me.. I think it might be your Poplar and the saw.. send them both to me and I'll cut puzzles with the saw to see if it's your saw or the Poplar.. when the poplar is gone I may need more.. might be the poplar from your location so maybe others should also send me some poplar from your location so I can determine if poplar is different by location.. Can't send me just one board either.. I say 50 - 100 board foot would rule out that one stubborn board that we all run into now and then.. Yes it happens to me as well and I notice it in most all the species

Some wood burning (shou sugi ban) and a Kamon symbol .I hope you will like it.

I have tried them all, and they all work. However, most of them have one common problem. As you cut, the clamp loosens because you are removing wood, and you need to retighten the clamp repeatedly as you cut. I trued a shop-made clamp that had springs to take up the slack, and that would have worked except for the spring I had was just too weak and would move. Then I thought about the spring clamp. Spring clamps have a spring that will take up slack as you cut. The first ones I tried did not work well. They were too small and weak to stay in place, so I went to the largest ones I had. These clamps have a strong spring, and I have difficulty opening them with my weak hand. Perfect. The large spring clamps stayed where I put them and kept the parts aligned. As a bonus, being made out of plastic, they will not damage the blade if you should accidentally hit the clamp.

I saw a post about this the other day, I've been using it for about a month now and it works well and it's saving me money ! I was blowing through blue painters tape like you wouldn't believe and @ $7 a roll for the good stuff it's not cheap. I just cut a piece the size I need and stick it on and glue the pattern on. It seems to lube the blade just like clear packing tape too ... I used to blue tape then glue the pattern and clear tape over the top, now it's just add the liner and glue down. So far it's stayed put until I've tore it off and it hasn't peeled on me even when I've left it a week and come back to it, also there's no noticable residue left when you take it off. Bonus I'm still on my original roll.

Only one I have done so far. Sigh. Not sure if I want to leave him natural (wood is Cherry) or paint him.

Hello everybody, It's not our tradition but for contribute from far to this one, I made this skeleton found on the website of Steve GOOD (Thank you Steve). I found it funny. But I think I'm not the only one who did.

Steve Good pattern that hubby saw and requested after a particularly bad day. Stack cut 3. He gets one,( that had a mistake), the other two for the craft sale.

Ditto to Brenda said and I have about 8 of them all different lengths, now that I'm making wands I require another one at 13 inches.... Oh dear....

I made some from a Steve Good pattern, they work great. Go to his pattern catalog and put Compound cutting jig in search box

You need to adjust the screw on the left back side of the say. Should be talked about in you manual. It is too tight. I had this problem on my ex and called Ray Seyco. He told me if you adjust it too tight it will wear a groove in the piece of metal it rides against and the groove gets too deep, it will no longer hold the arm up and that metal part is not replaceable. That is what I was told. I backed the screw off slightly. Now before adjusting any thing consult your manual. and wait for people with more experience before doing the adjustment... I could be wrong. Video of the bolt I am talking about.

I started using the shelf liner about 2 years or so ago after seeing the dog puzzle maker that cuts hundreds of them was using shelf liner instead of blue tape or just spraying the back of the patterns and attaching to the long lengths of the wood! As you said the price of the blue tape was just getting to expensive and if it is used with patterns with a lot of detail, you run the risk of breaking out some of the detail as you peel the tape off! After using it the first time and seeing the results, I never looked back! Erv

It's not April Fools yet!!

If you liken it to using a table saw, they make blades specifically to rip (cut with the grain) and blades to crosscut. It has to do with the way the fibers are aligned in the wood. Think of scrollsaw blades as designed to crosscut. When cross cutting the saw cuts (shears) these cell fibers across their structure. When rip sawing the saw is cutting the cell fibers along their length cutting through their structure. When cross cutting the dust is fine and clears from the blade easier, when ripping the saw dust is "stringier" due to the structure of the wood cells and doesn't clear from the blade as well staying in the gullets and slowing down the blades ability to cut.

Hey Ray, did he look like me?

I’ve always thought cutting with the grain is more difficult than against the grain, especially pine. Its like cutting meat. Much easier against the grain than with it.

Very nice. Lots of little pieces to keep up with. My grandkids love Jack Skellington. I cut this for one of them a couple of days ago.

A Halloween Bat I made earlier today. The pattern is courtesy of Scrollsaw Workshop. I then drilled 2 holes and added 2 red LED's for the eyes powered by a 3V watch battery. Regards, Alan.

I made Ham Shack plaques for 2 of my good friends as a gift for help they freely gave in times of need. I am working on another for myself. I used 1/2" Poplar finished with Zinser Shellac spray. I saw this posted here on the Village website. I think it was @Danwho had posted it. Thank you Dan, they were a big hit with both Monty and Mike.

I started scrolling 4 years ago - but life happened and I had to stop for the last 2 years. My first machine was a Ryobi, which was great to learn on, and it paid for my upgrade to a Pegas. I'm in love with it all over again. This is my first piece back into this, a birthday present. It took 5 days start to finish. The color differences in the bare wood only show up with the flash on the camera The wood is all Baltic Birch plywood - 3/4 for rim, 1/8 for main body and 1/4 for lettering and the heart

Cherry will burn if you're not careful so go a little at a time. My drill press also goes 620 rpm at it's slowest. I drill a very shallow hole, wait a few seconds, then drill another and repeat until the hole is complete.

I will save that supplier Kev. Thanks.

They're a little bit more money but I like the Packzon brand.. You do loose about 1/16 or so on the 11" sides for easier peeling.. which is why I like them. Had some that just had cross cut on the back but they was harder to peel off. Plus these have a full sheet back piece that is waxy on the one side which doubles for gluing small items. When I glue a piece that needs a backer.. I will spread a small film of wood glue using a plastic spreader ( commonly used for Bondo / fiberglass in the auto body world ) then I dip the back side of the fretwork into the glue and place it on the backer.. easier way to get glue on the entire back surface.. Just please make sure you're dipping the back side and not the front... don't ask. LOL Anyway I used to use these for mailing my packages so I would go through a lot of them. Last time I ordered I bought 1000 sheets.. then a week later I bought a thermal 4 x 6 Dymo label printer.. that's been a couple years ago and I still have most of them left now that I'm only using them for patterns. A hundred or so would last a weekend hobby scroller for a year or so I would think. I guess it depends on how you use them.. Most things I make would fit on a half or forth of a sheet like ornaments or car clocks so I print two per sheet of clocks and 6-8 ornaments per sheet so I don't go through to many of them a year. LOL I usually purchase them from ebay.. last time I got them was from this seller here back in 2020. https://www.ebay.com/itm/152896747215?hash=item23995b36cf:g:4kUAAOSwjn9Zj2Gt

Ditto, Ditto what has been said. But I have not used them much... Your clamps, I have not tried, I have some. but if your cut goes close to the edge of the wood the spring clamp would pinch the saw blade. I will have to remember to give them a try, next time I do some 3D cutting.

Going to have to look into full page shipping labels now ! ( As the rabbit hole opens, down he goes) got a link Kev?

I've been using the shelf liner for a lot of years, probably 10-12 years. I also got tired of the messy spray glue and the can running out of air before it's empty etc.. so I started printing the patterns on full sheet shipping labels.. pretty nice just peel and stick it to the shelf liner covered wood. The glue on the shipping label also lubes the blade, but don't try sticking just the label to the wood.. shipping labels are made to not fall off a package so it also doesn't come off the wood, LOL.. don't ask how I know that one.

I never use them and I still have 10 fingers.

With just sicking it to the wood and glueing the pattern down seems to lubricate the blade Ray, but if you want to add another layer over the top you get plenty in a roll

Thank you, Paul and Ray. I looked at the manual skipped right over it. Duh! Bruce

As Paul said. I took the bolt out and put a dab of grease on it. These saws do require a bit of maintenance. Unlike the Hegners.

Just practicing for when it is.

As a beginner I was unsure but after cutting a few things it seemed a no brainer, not only do I not need blue tape but also no packing tape either, that's a pretty big saving if you cut a lot. Thanks for the reply Erv!

Like everyone else says, yes.

I think you will find that Poplar varies widely with the type of Poplar (Yellow, Tulip ect.)

It's not you, it happens - specially noticeable with poplar! I've noticed this for a long time now but it hasn't always been so - IMO the blades have changed slightly. Not sure if it's the metal or the production, but when I first started cutting poplar I did not notice as much resistance cutting the grain. Then again, when I first started cutting poplar, I didn't know what the heck I was doing! LOL

Thanks everyone, I was concerned I was having a senior moment. lol Jim

Wow... for sure you have not lost your touch. I go away from my shop for 3 months and I need to get used to everything all over again. What a great piece to break back into with. If you can handle this one, you can do it all again. Glad you were able to upgrade to you knew saw. It has to be one of the best saws on the market now. Great project Dick heppnerguy

Yes, I find the same thing and just he nature of the wood. It seems cutting across the fibers is easier than along them.

Yep, fuzzies happen when I mount the MGT blades to low. so the bottom reverse teeth are not enetering the wood.

Light box I made few years ago and a haunted house I did about 8yrs ago to go along with a cemetery scene I made around 10 to 12yrs ago. 20221017_231247.mp4 20221017_231142.mp4

Beautiful piece. I'm hoping my inexpensive WEN saw will generate enough income for an upgrade also.

Very nice, RJ

Excellent work looks great. Roly

great job

Made of Birds Eye Maple and Peruvian Walnut. Bottom is removeable so ashes can be put in. Robert was a B-52 mechanic in Viet Nam.

More time to practice, this was out of my skills level but I wanted to give it a try. If I'm annoying you all with my frequent posts of my butchery , let me know I'll slow it down

Speaking of unsafe jobs brought me back to about 67 when I was a heavy line mechanic in a Buick agency. Some clown brought in a 67 Buick Riviera that he had cobbled together out of at least 2 wrecked cars. When I raised it up on the rack I right away saw where he had joined two cars together. The frames were chewing gum welded together right in the middle of the car. A good jolt of any kind would have caused the car to split in two. I showed it to my service manager and he told me to stop working on it and he called the California Highway Patrol. They sent an inspector out and he immediately impounded the car. I have no idea what ever happened to the customer but that car never saw another highway mile. it really makes one wonder how many of those are out there at any given point in time.

Those turned out great! That's the nice thing about that project, you can use any jack-o-lantern pumpkin pattern.

Alright @Travis you were the inspiration for a Saturday spent in the garage - I'm far better at following directions than I am coming up with new ideas There was originally a Minion face, but it fell off the workbench and broke. There's so much orange stain left over.

If that is "butchery" then I should give up!!! Great job.

You are motivating me to give it a try. Good Job