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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/21/2022 in all areas
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Did this bear a while back and just framed it yesterday. Love it. Wood is 1/4 inch maple paneling backer is 1/4 inch red paneling found at a yard sale, got 3 large pieces. Great color. Frame is 1 X 1 oak stained Mini Wax Gunstock color. size is 24 X 14 inch. Over 600 cuts. Took a while but did 25 to 50 cuts at a time. Pattern is by Midnight Scroller she is in a few groups.11 points
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Hungry Bass
frankorona and 9 others reacted to courtym74 for a topic
10 points -
Mustang
Lucky2 and 7 others reacted to Norm Fengstad for a topic
8 points -
Outdoor sign material
jollyred and 4 others reacted to Brokentone for a topic
‘8I have used Trex deck boards for outdoor signs. Pros are after it is cut it is done (no finish required), stays like new indefinitely, there is no fine dust when cutting, blade life is pretty good I guess because of the oil in the material. Cons are it is heavy, need to tape backside (this is recycled material and I found something’s that can scratch table), cuts slow I use the lowest speed on my hawk, if you cut fast it will weld back together, I just found out today that shelf liner does not stick well enough use blue tape. The last pieces I bought were about 53. for a 16’ 1x6 solid edge. Bob5 points -
I have tried them all, and they all work. However, most of them have one common problem. As you cut, the clamp loosens because you are removing wood, and you need to retighten the clamp repeatedly as you cut. I trued a shop-made clamp that had springs to take up the slack, and that would have worked except for the spring I had was just too weak and would move. Then I thought about the spring clamp. Spring clamps have a spring that will take up slack as you cut. The first ones I tried did not work well. They were too small and weak to stay in place, so I went to the largest ones I had. These clamps have a strong spring, and I have difficulty opening them with my weak hand. Perfect. The large spring clamps stayed where I put them and kept the parts aligned. As a bonus, being made out of plastic, they will not damage the blade if you should accidentally hit the clamp.2 points
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2 points
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Had 3 of the grandkids for the weekend. The thirteen year old, Bodhi, selected Steve Good's Door Sill Sleeping Dog, the ten-year old, Harper, chose Rocking Kitties, and the seven year old, Maddox, did the heart out of the practice sheet. What a great way to bridge the years with smiles and more smiles.2 points
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2 points
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These were both stencils found on the internet. I wasn't a huge fan of either singer in the day, though I do like a lot of Queen songs now and David's, "Space Oddity." I also love David's duet with Bing Crosby on Little Drummer Boy. I found this piece of heart pine at a curb where some people are remodeling a century old home. Still highly prefer cutting oak but free is free. When I get this hung it will make number 99 on my shop walls.2 points
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Best Clamps for 3D Compund Cuts
Dee Cee and one other reacted to Sycamore67 for a topic
These are my holders for doing compound cuts... I use a spring to keep constant pressure on the piece even after making a cut. The insides are covered with sandpaper to reduce slippage. I have added knobs on top to help better hold and maneuver the piece. With arthritis, this makes it much easier for me. I have several sizes depending on the size of the piece. I needed the small one as I have cut ones down to 5/8" tall.2 points -
Forstner bit question
OCtoolguy and one other reacted to don watson for a topic
So it looks as if it is clamped well and you take it slow and easy, a little at a time, it should be ok. Good luck.2 points -
Shelf liner
OCtoolguy and one other reacted to Eplfan2011 for a topic
Duh I'm a idiot I've got nearly a 100 sheets down stairs which I bought to make stickers on the cricut..... Did I mention I've a diy tee shirt and sticker addiction too.....2 points -
Shelf liner
OCtoolguy and one other reacted to Eplfan2011 for a topic
Thanks for all the info Kev. I haven't been at this long and I'm already 3/4 of the way down my second can of 3m 77 that's $10 a can plus blue tape and packing tape not to mention the good paper my wife uses for work I can't see it being more expensive !2 points -
Thanks for sharing. Like several others, when I started doing my first compound cuts, I made one of Steve Good’s clamps. Since then, that is only thing I have tried. Hubby has some of those spring clamps in the shop so perhaps I will give them a try at some point. It’s always good to have options. Sometimes one thing doesn’t work for all our needs.2 points
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Forstner bit question
new2woodwrk and one other reacted to Sycamore67 for a topic
Make certain to secure the piece.2 points -
Forstner bit question
new2woodwrk and one other reacted to Dan for a topic
Cherry will burn if you're not careful so go a little at a time. My drill press also goes 620 rpm at it's slowest. I drill a very shallow hole, wait a few seconds, then drill another and repeat until the hole is complete.2 points -
Shelf liner
scrollingforsanity and one other reacted to Scrappile for a topic
I have tried them all and am now back where I started. I attach my pattern directly to the wood. Remove with Mineral Spirits. The rule is what ever works best for the individual.2 points -
Just practicing for when it is.2 points
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Charlie E's Johnny Cash
Roberta Moreton reacted to Tbow388 for a topic
1 point -
Fence Board Jack-O-Lanterns
Rosa Idalia Cantu reacted to Travis for an article
Here is a fun little project you can knock out in an afternoon. These little wooden jack-o-lanterns will certainly delight and add some spooky decor to your house this Halloween. This project is made from cedar fence boards, so they're super cheap to make, and they look great! Step 1 I'm using cedar fence boards. Not only are they super cheap (between $3-4 per board) they have a rough-sawn look that will really make the project look great! The cedar fence boards have little fuzzies on them. Using 80 grit sandpaper, I knock off those fuzzies. I don't want to get it too smooth. The character of the uneven surface and milling marks is what makes this project sand out. Step 2 I'm cutting down each of the panels on the table saw. You can certainly cut out the panels with your scroll saw using the full-sized drawings in the pattern. I'm making 2 jack-o-lanterns, so I doubled the number of panels I need. For each pumpkin, I need two of each of the following: Top & Bottom 5.5"x5.5" Front & Back 4.5" x 6" Sides 3.5"x6" Caps & Inset 3.5"x3.5" Step 3 I like to paint the inside of the jack-o-lanterns so it reflects the light better. It's easier to paint them now than later. For the front and pack panels, I'm taping up the edge. I don't want any paint on these edges, since it will be visible on the outside. Step 4 I'm giving it a quick coat of white primer, followed by a quick coat of yellow spraypaint. I don't worry too much about perfect coverage. In fact, it looks better when there is variation in the coverage. Step 5 I grab my front panel and attach my scroll saw pattern to it. I use spray adhesive on the back of the pattern, then stick it to the front. Step 6 At the drill press, I make pilot holes for the blade to fee through. You can also use a regular hand drill. Step 7 These patterns are really easy, and you'll be able to knock these out in a few minutes. I'm using a #3 scroll reverse blade. Step 8 Time for assembly. I'm using standard wood glue and brad nails to pin it together. You can also use regular hammer and nails. Just be careful not to split the wood. Step 9 For the bottom, II put the box on the bottom panel and trace around it. I'll use this as a guide so I know where to put my brad nails into. I don't do any measuring, just eyeball it. Step 10 With the traced side facing up, I lay down a bit of glue. I know where the perimeter of the box is, so I know where to drive my nails into. Step 11 The inset is supposed to fit inside the box so the lid nestles in nicely. This will be a bit too big and will require some trimming. Just trim off a little on each end until it fits. I don't like it too tight, just enough where it will settle in nicely. Step 12 I glued and sandwiched the top panel between the inset and the cap piece. The cap is only decorative. I didn't bother nailing this one. I just put a little weight on the top and let the glue dry. Step 13 With a propane torch, I went outside and scorched the box. This is a lot of fun and will make your jack-o-lantern look awesome. Keep the flame moving, or you'll get uneven scorch marks. Step 14 I'm using a water based stain from Minwax I got at the big-box store. They can tint the stain any color you want. Naturally, I chose pumpkin orange. I applied the stain fairly heavy, then when I was done with the side, I quickly removed the excess with a paper towel. For the face, I dabbed on the stain, trying hard not to get it into the cuts. I found it easiest to work on one side at a time. Apply stain, then quickly wipe it away. Step 15 I found a stick outside and started stripping away the bark. We'll use this as our stem on our pumpkins. I like to find interesting parts of the stick, just to add a bit of interest. Step 16 On the scroll saw, I trimmed off sections of the stick to make the stem. I also sanded the bottom edge on a belt sander to get it flat. Step 17 I drilled a hole through the top of the box. I also drilled a pilot hole into the bottom of the stem. I'll attach the stem with a screw that goes through the bottom of the box and into the stem. Step 18 I painted the stem with regular craft paint. I painted it on and quickly wiped off the paint with a paper towel before it dried. This gives the stem a stained look and you can still see the wood grain. Once dried, I attached the stem to the lid with a screw from below. I also tied a bit of raffia around the base of the stem for a little extra pizzazz. Step 19 I'm using battery-powered fairy lights. I like this set because it had different displays, as well as a remote and timer. I've put a link to the ones I got here. Happy Halloween! Final Project1 point -
Cheetah
Lucky2 reacted to Insane Dust Maker for a topic
This is my latest cutting, it’s from one of my own stock photos which Russ Beard so generously made a pattern for. It took me between 60-70 hours due to load shedding in our corrupt country. It’s a first time for me try and introduce some colour to bring out the aggression, not good at it but I tried. The whole pattern was cut with a #0 blade, we don’t have a big selection of blades available to us we have to make with what we got. It will be framed and a back round added when I can find one in my stock photos. All this work is done on a modified Wen Scroll Saw.1 point -
BS...not!
Gene Howe reacted to barb.j.enders for a topic
1 point -
Tray Puzzles (Lots)
heppnerguy reacted to John B for a topic
Finally finished a bunch of tray puzzles. These are all cut from 6mm MDF with a 3mm MDF backer. They are A4 size. thanks for looking These 2 are pics of Primary School I work at. The Wife is the Principle. The building is 35 pieces and Mary 20 pieces. I donated these so that the school can raffle them. I have shown Dump Truck Puzzles before. I have completed 4 of them ranging from 14 to 20 pieces. Have already sold 2 These are from a book I down loaded a colouring page and modified it for the Butterflys The Number Puzzles are from the same book as the whales Noah's Ark................ A Steve Goode Pattern. I modified it a little by removing the "Fish" and replacing it with a rabbit. The dove is very small so I have glued that in place. Next ones I will modify a little more by having the dove outside of the ark and repositioning some of the animals.1 point -
Shelf liner
LarryEA reacted to Eplfan2011 for a topic
I saw a post about this the other day, I've been using it for about a month now and it works well and it's saving me money ! I was blowing through blue painters tape like you wouldn't believe and @ $7 a roll for the good stuff it's not cheap. I just cut a piece the size I need and stick it on and glue the pattern on. It seems to lube the blade just like clear packing tape too ... I used to blue tape then glue the pattern and clear tape over the top, now it's just add the liner and glue down. So far it's stayed put until I've tore it off and it hasn't peeled on me even when I've left it a week and come back to it, also there's no noticable residue left when you take it off. Bonus I'm still on my original roll.1 point -
pegas blade slippage
OCtoolguy reacted to scrollingforsanity for a topic
I do the same as Kevin except I take the wire off to expose the blade ends better. Spray with brakes parts cleaner. Dries fast. Works for me.1 point -
Yes he did say he found them and that he normally post them in the blog but didn't with this one since he thought he had thrown them out. But did happen to find them recently.1 point
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Best Clamps for 3D Compund Cuts
OCtoolguy reacted to don in brooklin on for a topic
1 point -
Best Clamps for 3D Compund Cuts
Foxfold reacted to Denny Knappen for a topic
Well, I still have all my fingers and I only use my fingers.1 point -
Thanks for posting that, I think you showed that sometime ago and I was going to add the springs.. Forgot because, well, I'm short on memory. I want to do some 3D cutting soon so will have to do the modicatiin. Need to find some springs.1 point
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I use the full sheet packing labels like Kev described and am very pleased with them. I like not getting 3M77 spray adhesive on my fingers. And I really like having/using the backing paper for glue-ups and for backing when spray painting small pieces. I sometimes use parchment paper when a backing sheet is not available. One word of caution re spray painting: the overspray paint does not stick to the backer or parchment paper and often will come up with the wood piece being sprayed.1 point
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Best Clamps for 3D Compund Cuts
danny reacted to barb.j.enders for a topic
I haven't tried the spring clamps but I have some small bar clamps.1 point -
Best Clamps for 3D Compund Cuts
danny reacted to William Eicehelberger for a topic
I have 3 sizes of Steve Goods clamps and I have never had any problems with them. They work great, IKE1 point -
I used blue tape for a long time before trying other methods, including shelf liners. I found the shelf liner annoying and quit using it after using up two rolls. I primarily use 3m spray adhesive (77/45) and put the pattern directly on the wood. Pattern removal is easy. Wet the pattern with mineral spirits and let it soak for a bit; it comes right off even the most delicate pieces. I only use blue tape when I need the piece fast and don't want to wait for the mineral spirits to dry.1 point
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Freddie Mercury and David Bowie
danny reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
Great patterns and execution of cutting and finishing. I would love to see a photo of your room you have all these in Dick heppnerguy1 point -
Mr. Wile E Coyote
Scrappile reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
Excellent my friend. I need to experiment with my air brushes as I have had them for several years and never taken the time to figure them out very well. You are an amazing person. Dick heppnerguy1 point -
Shelf liner
OCtoolguy reacted to Eplfan2011 for a topic
Got to agree with you there ! But this seems to be working for me !1 point -
I look like the picture in my avatar. That’s me! 60 years ago, I looked the same, but not as much hair (hahahaha).1 point
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Ham Shack Plaques
danny reacted to heppnerguy for a topic
I'm a little dense and it took me awhile until I caught on to what this one was all about. A pretty cool pattern for the ham operator. I guess I was under the impression with all the internet things that the ham operations were now a thing of the pass. I learned something today Dick heppnerguy1 point -
I agree, 620 rpm is not too fast. And like Sycamore67 said, make sure the piece is secured.1 point
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I use some of the more pricey bits.. as you might know, I use the 1-3/8 and 1-7/8 bits to drill into my clocks I make.. and most clocks are made from Cherry.. I first was worried about the DP speed too.. then I believe is was maybe JT that mention he runs his bits fast.. I've never had a burning issue with a good sharp bit. I've also been using the same but since 2007 and never have sharpen it yet.. though it could use it I think.. Can't tell you how many holes I've drilled with that 1-3/8 bit but it has to be a lot... The bit I use and the oldest one is a Amana brand that I bought from Klockit.. I since bought a Freud.. nice bit but the Amana is still working better than the brand new Freud, LOL.. I think the biggest thing is make sure you have a good hold on it whether you're clamping it or just holding it with your hand.. Most my pieces are large enough that I have good leverage and not close to the bit so I just hold it by hand.. A dull crappy bit might rip it out of your hand though.. Bought a full set from Menards years ago too because I wanted different sizes.. I got what I paid for I guess as the whole set was about the same price as that one Amana or Freud.. I have used some of the odd sizes and they do work but not the best at all..1 point
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Shelf liner
barb.j.enders reacted to Eplfan2011 for a topic
Going to have to look into full page shipping labels now ! ( As the rabbit hole opens, down he goes) got a link Kev?1 point -
Shelf liner
scrollingforsanity reacted to kmmcrafts for a topic
I've been using the shelf liner for a lot of years, probably 10-12 years. I also got tired of the messy spray glue and the can running out of air before it's empty etc.. so I started printing the patterns on full sheet shipping labels.. pretty nice just peel and stick it to the shelf liner covered wood. The glue on the shipping label also lubes the blade, but don't try sticking just the label to the wood.. shipping labels are made to not fall off a package so it also doesn't come off the wood, LOL.. don't ask how I know that one.1 point -
Best Clamps for 3D Compund Cuts
Greatgrandpawrichard reacted to scrollerpete for a topic
I never use them and I still have 10 fingers.1 point -
Issues cutting with the grain.
Gene Howe reacted to barb.j.enders for a topic
It's not April Fools yet!!1 point -
Cutting with the grain (rip cut) differs from cutting across the grain (crosscut). That is why you can get rip, and crosscut blades for a table saw. Handsaws also come in both rip and cross-cut versions. Scroll saws by necessity need to be a combination blade. When you are cutting with the grain the sawdust is more difficult for the blade to clear and will be slower in some cases. This can vary greatly depending on the blade and the wood you are cutting. Every piece of wood is different. I find that when I am cutting flat-sawn wood the difference is less noticeable. When I cut quality plywood or MDF the direction of the cut makes very little difference. However, I have cut some 3/4-inch MDF that I swear had a grain.1 point
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If you liken it to using a table saw, they make blades specifically to rip (cut with the grain) and blades to crosscut. It has to do with the way the fibers are aligned in the wood. Think of scrollsaw blades as designed to crosscut. When cross cutting the saw cuts (shears) these cell fibers across their structure. When rip sawing the saw is cutting the cell fibers along their length cutting through their structure. When cross cutting the dust is fine and clears from the blade easier, when ripping the saw dust is "stringier" due to the structure of the wood cells and doesn't clear from the blade as well staying in the gullets and slowing down the blades ability to cut.1 point
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pegas blade slippage
scrollingforsanity reacted to kmmcrafts for a topic
I think the Pegas clamps are more fussy than any other clamping system I've ever used.. They seem to need cleaning up quite often or they'll start slipping. As has been mentioned.. I've never had an issue with the Hawk at all and rarely clean the screws etc. up.. I've had regular excalibur chucks and not as much issues either, nor the DeWalt I used to have.. But those Pegas I do from time to time need to clean and or dress the ends of the set screw etc. I guess lots of people make an extra step to sand the blade ends.. not something I do but I will say I remove the oils from each blade ends by taking the whole bundle of them before unraveling the wire and I spray the ends off with automotive brake parts cleaner..1 point -
Scrollsaws and Grandkids - a great match!
heppnerguy reacted to Scrappile for a topic
That is totally awesome! Had my eleven old with us this weekend. We so rarely get to see him that the first few hours is spent just getting to know each other again... Did not do shop work this time. It was so nice outside we wanted to enjoy it while it lasted. So we shot the pellet rifle at spent spray paint cans and salvaged the marbles that were inside. We had a good time.1 point -
Fence Board Jack-O-Lanterns
Jaguarguy reacted to don in brooklin on for an article
1 point