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Another Cartoon character 11x14 pattern converted from a, paid for, image obtained on-line. Grumpy and I relate! Cut panel is Hand Painted 5/32” Birch Solid Core ply affixed to a 1/4” Hand Painted BB Ply Backer. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R Blade and assembled panel finished with Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is 1 3/4” wide premium Pine primed and painted with Glidden Max-Flex Brick Red Satin. Comments and critiques always welcome.

I did not want to Highjack the thread on compound cutting clamps. I cut lots of them especially at our clubs woodworking shows and give them to the kids. Occasionally I will show off the capabilities of the scroll saws for cutting small stuff. The smallest reindeer in this image is a bit less than 1/2" and the smallest and most delicate compound cut for me so far. I used a Pegas #2 28TPI blade no reverse teeth. The trees are turned and carved. I did not sand any of them.

Here are items I have been working on as inventory for my upcoming craft sale. The cat & dog ornaments were stack cut for a total of 12 of them.

I was not happy with my first segmented Jazz Player picture so I redid it. No missing pieces and actually more detail in this one. I am happy with this it so I have started a companion one to go with it,, another Jazz player character. The black in this picture I did with the air brush using acrylic hobby paint. All the white pieces are brush painted. Not good enough to air brush small pieces, without blowing them away. I will figure that out.

Those are real nice. I enjoy 3D cutting, it always surprises me when you remove the waste and there is what you wanted. Great use of small pieces of waste wood also.

Just finished cutting this cougar.

Hello everyone, like all children, I have watched western movies and I continue to watch them. it's from a photo. Oakwood thickness 0.23622 width 5.90551 length 6.69291 Eric

I too, lightly sand before cutting, then I use a sanding ball fixed to an upside down drill that's clamped to my bench . Sounds daft but it works, even on my delicate fretwork.

Last two Halloween lanterns I'm doing this year!

1/2" thick red oak. Cut the lettering with Pegas MGT #3 and the deer with FD spirals.

I use a sanding mop mounted on my drill press.

Lots of info here, thank you. I like your approach of trying to stop the fuzzies rather than preparing to sand them afterwards !

I haven't cut 3d for quite a while but I came up with an idea a few weeks ago. Will cut it and if it turns out OK will share.

Zebra wood with Odie's oil finish cut with Pegas MG #7 on my Seyco Saw

Lucky you! If my daughter had decided on this, I would have had to make one of these for each couple attending. Kind-of glad she didn't have a wedding theme. Charley

Is there a thread or video of Kevin's concoction? I am not sure I have heard of this before.

I use Tung Oil and either pour it into a foil food container and submerge the piece then wipe excess off and set aside to dry. Or pour some into a small dish and brush it on, wipe and set aside.

I use a sanding mop. I have a 5 in. mop which I maid myself using 180 grit sanding paper It took a lot of sanding paper and a long time making,. I made this about 5 years ago and it still does a good job. It is about as cheep to buy one , the price of sanding paper is up right now. I got the pattern off the internet . I haven net to break a piece of fret work Bill

I also use a sanding mop.

Spray shellac, acrylic craft paints. Kevin’s concoction of mineral oil and beeswax. Dab it on with a acid brush, heat it up with a hair dryer, let it soak in. Wipe with lint free cloth. (Lately, this has been my go to finish, ya can’t screw it up. ) Minwax Antique Finish in the red can. BLO/mineral spirits.

I use acrylic paint, shellac, polyurethane, and a shop made oil and wax blend. For some things I don't use any finish. It just depends on the project and the customer.

I have a spray booth set up and use guns off my compressor. For satin finishes I use a 30%gloss wood lacquer and for gloss finishes I use autmotive clear. The automotive clear has the benefit of containing uv inhibitors. Two or three coats cutting back between each with 220 or 360 paper

I do a lot of fret work, both on plaques and boxes, and it took a while to figure this out but now it quickly eliminates almost all fuzzies. I sand both sides of the pieces before I even apply the pattern and start cutting. Some of the exotic hard woods are not that much of a problem, BBPW more so. I blue tape as many cut out pieces back in the pattern as I can. This forces the fuzzies out the back. Before removing any tape, I sand the back with a orbital hand sander and then use a scotch brite (red) sanding ball on a drill and go in all directions on a flat surface. ( I buy these from HF for about $10) ( I tried this on my drill press but pushed too hard and broke off some fret pieces. I don't do that any more). I remove the tape and then the pattern and most pieces fall out or I push them out with a x-acto knife. In most cases I shellac my projects. It seals the wood but also lifts any loose fibers from the wood. I give a light hand sanding again with a piece of 500 sand paper and blow it off and tac cloth before applyng final finish.

Wow, it's an amazing capture of Johnny, I like this best of any Johnny Cash patterns that I've seen over the years. I would love to get a copy of the pattern, do you know if Charlie is selling any copies of it? Len

My wife surprised me again with another Alex Fox pattern. This ship pattern has LOTS of holes. Stack cut it with 1/8" for 2 copies. 1/4" backer and Gloss lacquer. I'll Keep one and one will go to one of my nautical buddies. Another plaque for his man cave.

Have you tried cutting with it yet? Would be good to hear and see the results. My first scroll saw was a Dunlap (Sears Brand) given to me in the early 1950's. After using it, I have no idea why I still liked scroll sawing. The blade clamps were terrible, used pinned blades, and spring return in the up direction, so broke blades rapidly. It would have been totally impossible to use blades as small as I do now. It became my shop door stop and it it's second job very well for many years. Charley

My clamps for 3D cutting look like the Steve Goode clamp design, but I've been using this design for about 50 years, and I didn't even know there was a Steve Goode back then. No springs in my design, but I learned long ago to use fine threaded stainless all thread. The finer threads allow tighter adjustment and the stainless doesn't stretch and bend like the mild steel all thread does over time. A long saw cut through the project roughly parallel to the clamp side does remove wood, no matter how small the blade, so after each full length or near-so cut, it is always necessary for me to retighten the clamp wing nuts. I also have several lengths of these clamps for different size projects. I found that making the wood pieces from 3/4" hi-lam birch plywood with the layers showing face up provides a bit of springy-ness that seems to keep the clamp tighter. I have used several kinds of solid woods and I always go back to the birch ply. So, most are 3/4" X 1" X the length needed, with the 3/4" side facing up/down. The stainless all thread is available at Lowes in 8" length, in their "hard to find" hardware section of stainless hardware. I usually go with 10-32 stainless all thread. Standard steel nuts, washers, and wing nuts work fine, and actually seem to wear slower because of the dissimilar thread metal. With the stainless, I think the thread surfaces remain smoother, resulting in less wear of the nuts, but that's just a guess. It just seems to work that way. Charley

Check to see if the arm needs adjustment. I have an EX 21 and after all else fails, that is usually the problem.

I agree with Paul. it seems amazing what the finished product looks like.

Its about 14" long and 4+ wide. Jim

Love it. I have several relatives who would find this to be "life itself". Bruce

It is a Steve Good pattern. Time to cut one for yourself!!

That's the part my husband likes!

I did 6 last year and sold them all. Had to quickly cut another for my sister while she was visiting me just before Christmas.

Another great job Frank!

Looking Good! I like the "I PEDAL" one and your variation of making it one piece instead of having a separate base for the bicycle to rest on.

Thanks Foxfold I'm going to pick some up tomorrow, I was going to today but got sidetracked with car repairs and curtains, strange mix !

Sending you a message.

Nicely done !

It all depends on the project. I don't do much flat work but when I do, I pre-sand prior to cutting. That eliminates most of the sanding later. What I make are projects that are made of pieces that require sanding after the cutting. So, I do a lot of sanding both by hand and with my Dremel 6300 sander. It's the one that has cutting blades and a sanding pad. I found a place to buy boxes of the velcro sanding paper so I use it a lot. My latest projects have been candle holders made up of top, bottom and 8 sides and it takes me a solid day to get them all sanded to my liking. I stop at 220 in most cases but sometimes I'll go to 400.

Thank you very much. I don’t sell patterns but I’m happy to share most of them. This one I wouldn’t share because it is so close to a Charles Dearing pattern. If you see any of my cuttings you’d be interested in a pattern of send me a message and I’ll let you know if it’s one I can share. Thanks again.

Most my intricate pieces are fret work. I sand them with a Mac Mop mounted on wood lathe, which I want to get a motor for and give it it's own place in the shop. I want my wood lathe back for turning. I have three grits 120, 180, 240. The each seem to give a smother finish than the grit indicates, i.e., the 180 give a finish of around a 220 grit finish. I use the to sand the back of the project to remove the fuzzies. Sanding from all four directions. to sand things like small part, I hold the piece with on of an assortment of tweezers I have to hold the piece while sanding with the mac mop.

Good stuff I've used Deft before on other projects

Very nice items.

nice work, I hope you sell a lot of them

Great stuff Barb. I hope you sell bunches. I really love the trees! Bet you sell all of them. Gonna have to have one of those at my house this year.

Oh WOW you have not lost your touch. An excellent job. Marg

Only one I have done so far. Sigh. Not sure if I want to leave him natural (wood is Cherry) or paint him.

Thanks a million. I have only painted the backer on one project because I didn't like the way the original backer turned out. Since then I have always stained them. I use either Ebony, Dark Walnut or Red Mahogany stains for my backers.

This is where I like to spend time. 20210718_135634.mp4