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Stack-cut a couple of H.Botas roses. Backer is rattlecan teal, it'll match a couple of other pieces my wife has hanging around the house.

I was not happy with my first segmented Jazz Player picture so I redid it. No missing pieces and actually more detail in this one. I am happy with this it so I have started a companion one to go with it,, another Jazz player character. The black in this picture I did with the air brush using acrylic hobby paint. All the white pieces are brush painted. Not good enough to air brush small pieces, without blowing them away. I will figure that out.

Not sure what to call this, exactly. My boss has an open-door policy, but fails to shut his door whenever he's on a Teams call or in a meeting, so I came up with a quick flip sign so folks will know if he's available or not. Font is "Old London" from dafont.com. Text/backers are 3/8 bbply, stained Minwax "Natural" and "Dark Walnut". Center piece is a piece of scrap red oak I had, posts and base are some scrap mystery wood (cedar, maybe? My allergies weren't happy with the sanding). Attached the text so that they're readable when the sign is rotated.

A Shih Tzu Puzzle finished this weekend. The pattern is by Harvey Blyer. I used 3/4" Poplar approximately 6" x 10". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3R MGT blades and #5R MGT blades for the veining. After sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac. Comments welcome.

Only after 5 years of making patterns I made Santa Claus, truly speaking I like to make animals and geometric patterns more than people or characters. I spent a lot of time - I remade head several times, I couldnt get facial expression I wanted, also I wanted to make it not too difficult. Only after adding glasses I liked the result. I hope he looks friendly, what do you think? Santa Claus pattern

Another Cartoon character 11x14 pattern converted from a, paid for, image obtained on-line. Grumpy and I relate! Cut panel is Hand Painted 5/32” Birch Solid Core ply affixed to a 1/4” Hand Painted BB Ply Backer. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R Blade and assembled panel finished with Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is 1 3/4” wide premium Pine primed and painted with Glidden Max-Flex Brick Red Satin. Comments and critiques always welcome.

At my age, with the beard and the amount of hair that grows out my nose,, I have good filtration!

Been talk in here recently about 3D scrolling.. It is one of the many types of cutting I love to do with a scroll saw. In fact I am getting ready to start another project that requires 3D cutting. I haven't done it for some time so I went to Youtube some refreshing... This is a good video... it includes ways to do 3D cutting, ways do make patterns, and at the end gives some great tips for new scrollers. Just wanted to post it for any one interested.

This is another Alex Fox pattern, this cross has a bit more detail than the last celtic cross I did. Trying to add some color to them and get away from so much brown . Bottom layer is ¼" the middle and top are ⅛" I was thinking ir might be more stable for the long term. Time will tell (lol).

Thanks guys got it all sorted out. Got a good 3M half mask, with the required filter pack, good googles that seal your eyes and allows you to wear spectacles and ear muffs. So I’m cool. The good Lord gave you a body for free, it’s up to you to look after it,

I prefer a tank-style compressor; however, the Central Machinery compressor from harbor freight I have worked fine for my airbrush, but you can't pump up a tire or rum air tools with it. If you do not need to pump up tires, drive nails, or run air-powered tools get the Harbor Freight compressor. Again, I highly recommend the Badger Anthem 155 airbrushes. These airbrushes will spray anything you are likely to want to spray. They are repairable, and parts are readily available from badger and other sources. Badger airbrushes are made in the USA. Lowcost China airbrushes can work for you, but I treat them as disposable. If they break, getting parts is a crap shoot, and you may not be able to find them. You are also going to need some accessories. Paint jars and and quick disconnects come to mind.

The way to get a glass like finish with shellac is called "French polish", and it is a bit of work. Don't think you can get it with an airbrush. Tom

Very nice. To airbrush small pieces stick them to a board using blue tac or a piece of masking tape sticky side up with ends folded under

Toymakers forum has a recipe for beeswax and mineral oil called Cynthia's beeswax finish.

Yes it does, Badbob. Most of what I cut are 3D Christmas ornaments and reindeer. When cutting chess pieces, I use a similar clamp, but slightly larger. My 2D work usually doesn't need clamping, but if it does I may use one of these, or design a special clamp for it. I don't use springs, but have developed the habit of tightening the clamps often, especially after making long cuts roughly parallel with the clamps. Even a .010" thick blade kerf will remove enough wood to loosen the clamp. My smallest version of these clamps is 5" long. I needed this clamp to cut 5/8" tall 3D reindeer. My most used size is 7" and I have several, because I sometimes teach and demonstrate for the woodworking club that I belong to. Given the chance, I'll be starting my Christmas production soon. I never sell, but give away everything that I make to friends and family, and also to waitresses, doctors, nurses, cashiers, sales girls, etc. Every woman that helps me in some way during the Christmas Season can have something that I've made. Most men don't appreciate what I do, but if a woodworker friend expresses interest, he can get one from me too. I do cut 2D occasionally, but my real interest is in 3D scrolling. I do other things beside scroll sawing. I have a cabinet/furniture shop and the scroll saws kind-of sit in the corner of it. I have made many pieces of furniture, kitchen tools, and items for my Pro Photography/Video Studio that I built myself 3+ years ago. I also donate my time and sometimes my workshop space to design and build exhibits for the North Carolina Science Museums. For these, I do everything from design through completion, except for the graphics. They have a department for that. I'm a Retired Automation Engineer, once worked on NASA hardware, and also designed and built high speed, high precision manufacturing machinery. Roller Coaster control system? I once did that too. I'm not one to sit around, even at my age (now 80). Charley

I will say I recently did get some hearing protection for when I scrolling. My normal tinnitus was starting to take on a different tone. So I figured "here's your sign" and now I wear them when scrolling/mowing the yard and such.

Here is the video I did, I can't take full credit as I just used the recipe from the toy making plans that someone else had already said.. I make mine so it's not really liquid but not a hard paste wax either.. kind of in between.. Apply it with a acid brush and use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt it into the crevasse etc. https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

Neat and innovative project. Great job!

Thanks @BadBob I have looked at them but somewhat more than I can pay. If I could, I would. But for a hobby and the amount of times I would use it--

Ditto....

Got another question.. My compressor I have been using works fine for bursts of air like for a small nailer but not so good to air brush,,, small tank.. How long would one expect a say 5 gallon air tank last for air brushing? Been thinking of going that way as opposed to purchasing a third compressor.

Thx!! Its a quick cut, actually.

Love it

Nice piece Paul. I like the advise of using painters tape on small pieces. Hopefully I'll remember that.

I was an Air Force navigator. The compass was the most important navigation item we had. I like all your items, going to try to do some. Thanks for sharing. Jerry

Thanks for that video.

On other sites that I am on, they make a loop of painters tape, stick it to a board, then the small pieces on top. Saves from them blowing away. Others have used the spray glue instead of the tape. Spray a board, then attach the small pieces.

It makes you understand why they cost so much. I did the math when I purchased my sanding mop, and it was cheaper to buy. Not including labor.

very nice

Best oil and wax blend instructions on how to make your own. This is about making paste wax, but if you want it as a liquid you simply add more solvent. I make a paste and heat it till it melts for application.

Wow, it looks like I stirred the pot a bit. The important thing to me is that nothing moves on the second pass. Every clamp system I have tried will slip from time to time. The large spring clamps I use have never slipped. To be clear, the clamps I use are 9-inches long. They came in a set I purchased many years ago. They are very similar to those that are sold on amazon. While reading the comments, the clamp that works for you may depend on many factors.

That is what I'm doing as well. Works for me.

A cheap but useful air filter can be made with a cheap box fan and furnace filter.

Hey Everyone! In this scroll saw project video, I make an awesome miniature version of the iconic Pirate's Skull And Crossbones! This Steve Good design uses several layers of 1/4 inch material and is shaped using various sanders to give it a 3D and lifelike look! It's a Pirates Life For Me! Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

rjweb Hi just type in Toymakers plans.com and and it is listed on home page.

I use a highly efficient cyclone dust collection system, that I designed myself and is attached to the saw, and I use a small fan that blows across the table. The I have to wear spectacles even with the magnifying glass, but at the end of the day my eyes feel like I have been standing in a sand storm all day. I’m a pensioner with limited funds so I can’t install a filtration system in the work shop. Maybe my half max is not doing the job properly, I don’t know.

Ray, The pieces are cut from 3/4" thick plywood, the more layers the better, but standard 7 ply cabinet birch will work fine. When assembled in the clamp they are 1" high and 3/4" thickness, by whatever length you need. So position the plywood pieces so the edges of the plies face up and down. The wood is slightly more flexible that way. Then the all thread holes go through the 1" sides horizontally, 1/2" from each edge (1/2" + 1/2"edge to edge gives you the center). I place the holes about 1" from the ends as well, and it's best to tape the two pieces together for drilling in your drill press, so the holes are straight and the same spacing in both pieces, just like the early photos posted. I drill larger holes than the size of the all thread chosen, so the ply pieces will slide easily on the all thread, even if cocked at a slight angle to the all thread. I use flat washers to protect the wood surface from multiple tightening and loosening of the nuts. Some like to cut the all thread shorter, but that limits the size of the piece that you can cut, so I leave mine the full 8" length. I have used sandpaper to keep the parts from slipping in the clamps, but keeping it in place became a chore, even with glue. You need to use very fine grit paper and of a type like machinist's fabric backed, like crokus cloth, not woodworking sand paper, because grit falling off the paper will leave scratches in your saw table. It doesn't take much grit size to reduce work piece slipping. Keeping the grit off the table is more important to me. I like a smooth waxed table, so the work piece and clamp will move and turn easily. Charley

Okay,, after all these responses I want to know recommendations on an air brush and compressor to buy... I tried the cheapest.. and they were good enough to let me know I may get some great use out of a better air brush. BUT, I am not an artist that is going to paint beautiful pictures, I am going to paint pieces and parts of scroll saw pictures. And I am not rich. My kids thought are doing well, very well, but I am not rich and they are stingy,(just kidding, but I drive a car with 160K on it and need a new house, are they going to make me beg!!!, again just kidding, my kids have alway been very close, even though they have always lived far away. ( just threw that sentence in there because I am in a whiny mood, three, okay five, glasses of wine does that,, get it whiny/wine?) So what is recommended for a guy like me. Gravity fed, suction out of a jar. compressor with a tank or one that runs while you are spraying, double action or single. I will probably use acrylic paint most, easier cleaning? I still do not know every thing I need to know. Any real recommendations?

Perfect!

That is very good!

polyurethane and 321.

Do you have the link? There are a few Kevin's on the site

Very nice Paul, RJ

Some very good information by everyone here, thx, Peter what is that toymakers forum, Thx RJ

I don't use a mask but have a very god dust collection on my Hegner.

For non puzzles, I use Krylon Triple Thick Clear Glaze. For the longest time on puzzles, I used spray shellac. However, recently I started to use the clear glaze on puzzles as well and it works just fine for me. Gives everything a nice shine, brings out the grain really well and i only have to buy one product LOL

Sending you a message.

If It do not want any change to the wood's color, I spray several coats of Deft Clear Wood Finish,, I prefer "simi-gloss". It is Lacquer, so dries quickly, and several coats can be applied if a short time. I also spray it over painted projects. I have been useing it for ocer five years now. Unfortunately It is not available everywhere. I get it at My Home Depot. It is available online... WOW,, Amazon wants almost $24 a can, I have not paid that much for it but have not had to buy any for some time... At that price I will have to rethink it. Seems to me they are trying to price people out of hobbies.

Hi Freddie, I’m not the hole counting type all I can tell it was over a thousand, and 18 #0 Blades.

I got that airbrush kit about a month ago and used it once to paint acrylic on a bud vase. Was happy with the results. Last week, I got an order for this pattern, but to be finished with amber shellac, based on another pattern of a fish I had cut out and finished with amber shellac. Sooooo . . . used a brush on the cutout horse pattern and didn't like it. The brush marks were showing. So . . . I used amber shellac thinned with Denatured Alcohol. Ratio was something like 3 to one shellac to alcohol. I sprayed each side lightly about 8 times. I like the results, given the first time I've sprayed with shellac. Will experiment more, as I would like to achieve a glass like finish, if possible.