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I am going to try to buy, and scroll, as many of Alex Fox’s patterns as I can, to support our Ukrainian friend. I just finished this one that I believe many have done before. 1/4” Baltic Birch, all cut with 2/0 Pegas spiral blades, except for Pegas #1 MG for six straight cuts.

This is another Alex Fox pattern, this cross has a bit more detail than the last celtic cross I did. Trying to add some color to them and get away from so much brown . Bottom layer is ¼" the middle and top are ⅛" I was thinking ir might be more stable for the long term. Time will tell (lol).

My wife found a bunch of wood being thrown out, came home and got me and we loaded it up. Turns out it was pine, not a wood I use anymore so I let it sit and simmer for awhile. The other day, I started to break it down - I sanded down both sides (one side was completely rough and the other had some kind of shiny finish, maybe lacquer don't really know), cut into manageable sizes, remove any nails/screws etc. and as a welcome surprise, there were 10 led lights installed in some holes! Sweet! This must have been some kind of rec room lighting I think. Anyway... We've been asked to make a new product and using this reclaimed wood, I put together a new sample - Pet Urn. I have enough extra reclaimed wood to make about 6 or so more. Here is the finished sample product we're looking to release it this weekend. Duchess was one of our dogs who has passed and waiting for us. Thanks as always in advance Thanks as always in advance

The 11” x 14” patterns for these pieces were converted from free image’s I found on-line. All were cut in 5/32” Solid Core Ply affixed to 1/4” BB Ply backers. Cut Panels and Backers were hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints. Assembled panels protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Cutting was done with both Pegas Regular and Spiral blades of various sizes (I really don’t remember which ones). Frames again are 1 3/4” wide premium grade pine, finished by priming and painting with Glidden Max-Flex rattle can spray of various color’s. (I noticed in the photo there is a small scratch on one that will need a touch-up coat. The Glidden Max-Flex paints dry fast to the touch but remains very soft for quite a while until fully cured.) Bamboo Snack (Birch cut panel) Leòn (maple cut panel) Peeking Raccoon (Walnut Cut panel) Comments and Critiques always welcome.

I don't sell a lot of them, but thanks to @kmmcrafts for providing the inserts on his website as well as information about the size, I can make them much easier now! It's nice they are getting noticed now on our table. Hopefully, we'll be making more as time passes. Thanks as always in advance

Was able to finish this today of our dog Luna who passed away suddenly a few weeks ago. I want to thank Paul (Grampa) for doing this pattern for me. He helped me out quite a bit with pet patterns. Just need to put a few more coats of poly on it tomorrow. Thanks again Paul.

Not sure what to call this, exactly. My boss has an open-door policy, but fails to shut his door whenever he's on a Teams call or in a meeting, so I came up with a quick flip sign so folks will know if he's available or not. Font is "Old London" from dafont.com. Text/backers are 3/8 bbply, stained Minwax "Natural" and "Dark Walnut". Center piece is a piece of scrap red oak I had, posts and base are some scrap mystery wood (cedar, maybe? My allergies weren't happy with the sanding). Attached the text so that they're readable when the sign is rotated.

Another Cartoon character 11x14 pattern converted from a, paid for, image obtained on-line. Grumpy and I relate! Cut panel is Hand Painted 5/32” Birch Solid Core ply affixed to a 1/4” Hand Painted BB Ply Backer. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R Blade and assembled panel finished with Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is 1 3/4” wide premium Pine primed and painted with Glidden Max-Flex Brick Red Satin. Comments and critiques always welcome.

A Shih Tzu Puzzle finished this weekend. The pattern is by Harvey Blyer. I used 3/4" Poplar approximately 6" x 10". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3R MGT blades and #5R MGT blades for the veining. After sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac. Comments welcome.

Only after 5 years of making patterns I made Santa Claus, truly speaking I like to make animals and geometric patterns more than people or characters. I spent a lot of time - I remade head several times, I couldnt get facial expression I wanted, also I wanted to make it not too difficult. Only after adding glasses I liked the result. I hope he looks friendly, what do you think? Santa Claus pattern

Made this for my cousin, who is really into Halloween. In case you can't tell, it is Dracugnome. I made the pattern from a clip art drawing, which I modified for scroll sawing. The paint is acrylic craft paint and was applied with my airbrush and a paint brush for the details.

Stack-cut a couple of H.Botas roses. Backer is rattlecan teal, it'll match a couple of other pieces my wife has hanging around the house.

I was not happy with my first segmented Jazz Player picture so I redid it. No missing pieces and actually more detail in this one. I am happy with this it so I have started a companion one to go with it,, another Jazz player character. The black in this picture I did with the air brush using acrylic hobby paint. All the white pieces are brush painted. Not good enough to air brush small pieces, without blowing them away. I will figure that out.

I change blades when it is: cutting to slow doesn't track well I smell smoke

I change blades when it is time to change blades. You can feel when a blade is getting dull by how it is cutting. Typically, it is cutting slower or you are pushing harder. I never try to time how long to use a blade as there are too many variables.

I use them until the break. Sometimes they just dont track right for whatever reason and i will change it but most times its until breakage. I have used some blades for a year. Not every day but for some cuts. They are bent and rusty but still work so why throw away money.

Thanks for the comments guys, I'm not seeing any burning but being inexperienced I think I'm pushing mine to far. I think I'm Concerntrating on what I'm doing more than what's happening that's why I asked.

Different types of ply also changes when you change the blade. I was using a cabinet grade plywood that dulled the blade way faster than BB ply!

For me, the signal that I need to change blades is when I see smoke.

The material you're cutting is going to greatly change this... not to mention the feed rate at which you're pushing through and also if you're pushing "straight" through or you have a slight drag on one side of the blade or not. Properly tensioned blade will also affect the longevity. Back to the material you cut.. Plywood which I cut a lot of burns through blades compared to solid timbers.. The glues in the plywood I believe are what causes this but not certain of that, maybe someone else knows more on that. Cutting a stack of five 3mm BBply I get around 15-20 minutes on a blade.. I probably change out my blades more often than others.. Blades are cheap and a dulled down blade makes inefficient cutting.. certain types of wood burn easy.. you don't want a dull blade just sitting there slowly munching and burning it's way through..

Very good picture and tribute... Sorry for your loss. Loosing a pet, especially a dog is every bit like loosing a best friend,,, because you are.

My observations are... -when I have to put more pressure to feed wood into the cut. -about 40min of countinous cutting with 0.75 inch thick wood with #1 mgt. -thinner blades dull faster. -when blades don't cut around corners, right vs left turns act different. This can also be low tension. -tight turns dull blades really fast. -harder or softer woods will change above conditions. .. every blade shows a slightly different angle to cut straight. When I install a new blade and the angle is way different it is usually a dull brand new blade. It happens sometimes. Be aware of bad batches also. I usually fight the new dull blade for a couple of inches and then decide to change it. :: I would be very interested in more experience users opinions.

Here is the video I did, I can't take full credit as I just used the recipe from the toy making plans that someone else had already said.. I make mine so it's not really liquid but not a hard paste wax either.. kind of in between.. Apply it with a acid brush and use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt it into the crevasse etc. https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

Zebra wood with Odie's oil finish cut with Pegas MG #7 on my Seyco Saw

I know there's no hard and fast rules but how often should you be changing blades?

So you paint both the foreground and the background? Very well done!

As everyone has said it depends. I have been cutting some ornaments from Cedar wood. I have been using #7 Olsen PGT and #7 Pegas MGT blades. The material is 1.5x1.5 inches. It takes me about 20 minutes per ornament and I have been getting 2.5 to 3 ornaments per blade. Had this been hard Maple or Oak I imagine that would reduce to probably 1 to 1.5 per blade.

In all seriousness, it's only to the degree that it affects the cut, that it matters. We push our blades past their optimum limits, because we want to make sure we get our money's worth out of them. Once the quality of the cut or the time taken to make the cut impacts us to a level where it bothers us, then it's time to change. That point is a moving target and may well be different for everyone.

Great job! I wish I had done that with the dogs I have had. I have a burial plot with all the dog, cats sheep and goats buried it. May I suggest, is you know it on future one add the born and past dates of their lives..

Hi Jes, Neat scrolling there! Great to look at, Bob

nice job

sorry for your loss, awesome job

awesome job

very nice

Note that almost every one of these compressors, as listed on Amazon, is nearly identical to the one harbor freight sells. The primary exception is the addition of a tank. If you want to try airbrushing, Harbor Freight has the best deal. You get the compressor and airbrush with a regulator and filter. If you use a compressor that isn't made for an airbrush, you will need the regulator, filter, fittings, and hoses. There used to be some other options for airbrush compressors. These seem to have vanished from the market.

I feel for your loss and offer condolences to you and your family! Nice work! Pets are so hard to lose!

Sorry for your loss Ralph. Excellent portrait. Marg

That is so lovely. Fabulous work. Marg

Love it. Excellent work Paul. Marg

Love it. Excellent job. Marg

Yes it does, Badbob. Most of what I cut are 3D Christmas ornaments and reindeer. When cutting chess pieces, I use a similar clamp, but slightly larger. My 2D work usually doesn't need clamping, but if it does I may use one of these, or design a special clamp for it. I don't use springs, but have developed the habit of tightening the clamps often, especially after making long cuts roughly parallel with the clamps. Even a .010" thick blade kerf will remove enough wood to loosen the clamp. My smallest version of these clamps is 5" long. I needed this clamp to cut 5/8" tall 3D reindeer. My most used size is 7" and I have several, because I sometimes teach and demonstrate for the woodworking club that I belong to. Given the chance, I'll be starting my Christmas production soon. I never sell, but give away everything that I make to friends and family, and also to waitresses, doctors, nurses, cashiers, sales girls, etc. Every woman that helps me in some way during the Christmas Season can have something that I've made. Most men don't appreciate what I do, but if a woodworker friend expresses interest, he can get one from me too. I do cut 2D occasionally, but my real interest is in 3D scrolling. I do other things beside scroll sawing. I have a cabinet/furniture shop and the scroll saws kind-of sit in the corner of it. I have made many pieces of furniture, kitchen tools, and items for my Pro Photography/Video Studio that I built myself 3+ years ago. I also donate my time and sometimes my workshop space to design and build exhibits for the North Carolina Science Museums. For these, I do everything from design through completion, except for the graphics. They have a department for that. I'm a Retired Automation Engineer, once worked on NASA hardware, and also designed and built high speed, high precision manufacturing machinery. Roller Coaster control system? I once did that too. I'm not one to sit around, even at my age (now 80). Charley

This is great. Thanks for posting.

Looks great, but he still has to remember to flip it.

At my age, with the beard and the amount of hair that grows out my nose,, I have good filtration!

Here are items I have been working on as inventory for my upcoming craft sale. The cat & dog ornaments were stack cut for a total of 12 of them.

Thanks for that video.

Wow, it looks like I stirred the pot a bit. The important thing to me is that nothing moves on the second pass. Every clamp system I have tried will slip from time to time. The large spring clamps I use have never slipped. To be clear, the clamps I use are 9-inches long. They came in a set I purchased many years ago. They are very similar to those that are sold on amazon. While reading the comments, the clamp that works for you may depend on many factors.

Been talk in here recently about 3D scrolling.. It is one of the many types of cutting I love to do with a scroll saw. In fact I am getting ready to start another project that requires 3D cutting. I haven't done it for some time so I went to Youtube some refreshing... This is a good video... it includes ways to do 3D cutting, ways do make patterns, and at the end gives some great tips for new scrollers. Just wanted to post it for any one interested.

Very nice. To airbrush small pieces stick them to a board using blue tac or a piece of masking tape sticky side up with ends folded under

These are my holders for doing compound cuts... I use a spring to keep constant pressure on the piece even after making a cut. The insides are covered with sandpaper to reduce slippage. I have added knobs on top to help better hold and maneuver the piece. With arthritis, this makes it much easier for me. I have several sizes depending on the size of the piece. I needed the small one as I have cut ones down to 5/8" tall.