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Today, while cleaning up a bit I got to thinking about that nickle test I've read and seen on YouTube and thought..."I wonder". So I got a nickle put it on my Delta P-20 and cranked it on. After about 5 seconds the nickle fell over. Tried it several more times, and all the same result. I thought " well, kinda what I figured". Then went over to my King 16", I've had it about a year. Put the nickle on it's edge, cranked the King on, and.........there it stood, on edge, unphased by the scrollsaw running. I went thru the speed spectrum and it stayed on it's edge. I had always thought the P-20 was rock solid, practically vibration free, was I ever wrong. I know that when cutting on the King it was much easier to stay on line for me, never figured that a little vibration can make a difference. Anyhow, just a little part of my day, back to regularly scheduled programs.... Chris

Several of Steve’s patterns. The dyed pairs are cut from hard maple, the others are from cherry. Easy cut with a #1 mgt on the Pegas. Adding the hooks is a royal PITA. My wife and her friends loved them but I need to get out of the jewelry business as the time spent adding the hooks is not my cup of tea.

I've been continuing on my learning curve with hand carving (as well as turning). These 4 ornaments were ones that I cut out on the scroll saw and then hand carved. The two "peekaboo" santa (triangular shaped) are patterns from Carolea Hower in the Winter 2016 edition of the Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. The other santa is a pattern from Jon Nelson that also appeared in the magazine 2017 (not sure of issue - but figure Winter perhaps.) The snowman with the NP sign is a pattern from Steve Russell, again from the Magazine, with 2016 copyright so assume the Winter 2016 for it. I scrolled the basic shape on the saw, then hand carved and finished. Will try some more and probably try to "paint" them but wanted to go with the natural look on these first ones. These can easily be adapted for use by a scroller without doing the carving. You can add in extra scrolling as needed, or just cut the basic shapes, and add a little detail with paints or woodburning. The Santa and the Snowman on the bottom had the darker details added with my woodburner after I completed the carving on each.

So ..... It was bought up in another thread I made. What are your go to blades and sizes you must have in your collection? So far I've got a few dozen each FDUR #2.0 through #7 apart from #3#5 which I have a gross each. Couple of dozen MGT #2.0 through #12 Couple dozen FD spiral #3.0 through #7 So make me a list and if you have a specific use for them please tell

Agreed! My go to is FDUR #3 and #5 that's why I have 2 gross of them, and I've found a need for a spiral blade every now and then. My problem is that I have no real idea what else there is or how they perform, also I haven't found my nitch yet and I'm cutting anything from 1/8 to 1 3/4 thick. Plywood, MDF,hardwood and pine. So asking this question helps me look at other blades to try, plus a dozen blades here and there won't break the bank.

I pretty much only use FDSR- 1,3,5 Jewelers blades- 2/0 I have a lot of others but use only those. My go to cuts are on 1/8" baltic birch, maybe 2 sheets together at times.

For years I used FD UR and Polar blades. Now that we are a Pegas dealer. I use mostly MGT in sizes #1 through #5. I do use #7 MGT for compound cutting.

Why don't you cut them and let your wife put on the hooks. Win Win. BTW, well done!

Posted in "New Pattern Announcements".

I found this free Dragonfly Pattern on-line and realized it would make a good box type Nightlight Lamp. I used solid 1/4” thick Red Oak for the body and connectors, and 1/2” thick (planed down from ¾” thick material) for the Top and Base. The four body sides are 5 1/2” wide x 11 1/2” tall and were stack cut with Pegas #1 MGT R Blades. All chamfering and mitering was done on the table saw. The Top sits loose on the top of the body to allow access for bulb changing. The natural Red Oak color was darkened with one quick wipe on wipe off coat of Minwax Red Oak stain. All stained surfaces were finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer prior to installation of the Amber Cast 1/8” thick Translucent Acrylic panels. The panels are held in place with small dabs of Gel Superglue. I originally intended to use a 25W LED bulb but found that it was too bright. I replaced it with 10W clear nightlight lamp bulb. However, I plan to add some translucent velum sheets, attached with spray adhesive, to the inside face of the Amber panels and see if the lamp has a nicer soft glow with the 25W bulb. I was very unhappy with the much too transparent plexi with either the 10W or 25W bulb. Applied Translucent Velum using spray adheasive to the inside on each side. Now with the 25W LED Candlelabra bulb the glow is much softer amd you can't see inside. Next time I make a lamp like this I have to remember to apply the velum to the plexi before inserting them . Comments and critiques always welcome.

Another Cartoon character 11x14 pattern converted from a, paid for, image obtained on-line. Grumpy and I relate! Cut panel is Hand Painted 5/32” Birch Solid Core ply affixed to a 1/4” Hand Painted BB Ply Backer. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R Blade and assembled panel finished with Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is 1 3/4” wide premium Pine primed and painted with Glidden Max-Flex Brick Red Satin. Comments and critiques always welcome.

A Shih Tzu Puzzle finished this weekend. The pattern is by Harvey Blyer. I used 3/4" Poplar approximately 6" x 10". Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3R MGT blades and #5R MGT blades for the veining. After sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac. Comments welcome.

I think you have more than enough blades. Your go to blades are related to what you cut, your saw and personal preference. What I like probably is not what you would like. You need to cut things and decide what you like.

I don't have any blades above 7 and I've never had a need for them. Pegas 5 mgt are my go-to blades. I don't do much fretwork.

Must have blade hmmm. My most used blade is probably Pegas MGT #3 and #5 for cutting mostly 1/2" - 3/4" material whether it's hardwoods or stacked up 1/8" plywood. Next up is FD-NS #2/0 Spiral blades.. typically used for stack cutting up to 1/2" material typically stacks of 4 pieces of 1/8" BB ply. Also used for veining cuts in hardwood when cut was first made with flat blade then followed up with the spiral. I do not like spiral blades any larger than a #1 mostly use the 2/0. Now.. other blades I sometimes use in place of the Pegas MGT is sometimes the #3 - #5 UR or the same size in the SR. Depending on my mood and if I happen to be having length issues with the Pegas LOL.. All the blades above is my most used have to have on hand blade.. Now I keep probably 30 different brands and styles on hand but rarely use any of them on a regular basis.. and could probably do without them.. once gone they may not ever be ordered again.

Scrapplie and meflick, my big fat fingers don’t manage the opening and closing of the metal rings well. It is tedious work for me and time I would rather spend on the saw. The outcome is appreciated and I may take up the effort to convince my better half to do the metal work if she is willing. Scrapplie here’s the offer, I will happily send your favorite pair if you will pierce your ears and post a picture

Very nice. I also like the snowman best.

Rustoleum clear enamel has replaced the Minwax spray products in my shop.

that is a beautiful night light

very nice work

If you are jumping in here please go back to top and see the Updated original post. I think you will like the lamp a lot better now.

I went to power carving because my wrists are BAD. I do a small bit of hand carving but too much and my wrists scream. The carving is fun but somethings end in the trash pile.

Very well done ! The ornaments look great with the carving. I have also been trying some carving with power tools....flex shaft Dremel.

Thank you everyone for your kind words. I admit I have been enjoying learning to carve and combining those skills with my scrolling. Still lots to try and learn.

Cute, I was going to suggest same as Frank. Have your wife take over assembly. I haven’t made any out of wood, but I have made my own earrings in the past, what is the struggle?

Beautiful lamp Frank. Thanks for sharing your pattern. I will download it and add to my “some day when I get to it pile.”

Thats actually a great idea, and applicable for other problems too, thanks for sharing! Chris

Absolutely perfect.

That is a beautiful lamp, Frank!

That is a stunning piece of work. I have used hand made paper for a couple of lamps that I have made. It provides a nice soft glow. Can you provide the link for the pattern. I am very partial to dragonflies and would love to cut that pattern. Barb

Excellent! Love the snowman myself!

most excellent

It's in my cart now. I'm going order it now. Thanks.

I also have both and I I use the mac mops about 90% of the time. I just like them more. Both do a good job.. I also agree with this description of the grits. I use 180 most the time.

Do you have a hobby for your spare time?

I get that. I pointed out so that people don't think that they need to get the file in PDF format when it is available as an SVG. If I get a pattern in some graphics format. I convert it to SVG before I print the pattern so I can easily make it what ever size I want and adjust line width.

I've gotten a number of layered patterns from etsy that are designed for laser cutters. So far, with a little playing around and some knowledge gained here, I've been able to take the .svg files and save each layer as a separate .pdf file for easier printing using inkscape. Some of these patterns are quite complex and a challenge to cut, but have really nice results when finished.

Sorry for your loss, I did go through that same thing many years ago and it still miss my best friend.

I’m sorry for the loss of your beloved Luna. Nice job on the plaque to remember her.

Great job. Sorry for your loss. Our neighbors have a Great Dane named Luna. They say it's short for Lunatic.

Exactly what'll probably happen to mine. I hope they at least look on the back first because I've put their names of a few of them if it's a singer or actor they like. I'm planning to be cremated so maybe they can just throw them in with me and save time.

Wow, do you charge admission?

Charley, I'd love to sit with you over a bottle of something and just listen to your life experiences. My life can be summed up over a cola.

Here is the video I did, I can't take full credit as I just used the recipe from the toy making plans that someone else had already said.. I make mine so it's not really liquid but not a hard paste wax either.. kind of in between.. Apply it with a acid brush and use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt it into the crevasse etc. https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

Best oil and wax blend instructions on how to make your own. This is about making paste wax, but if you want it as a liquid you simply add more solvent. I make a paste and heat it till it melts for application.

That is pretty darn Cool. The only other person I know that has something comparable to that is @munzieb with all his neat cars and planes pictures. All my pictures sit in a box waiting for the big bonfire the kid are planing to have when I an gone..