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With the change in hours at work, my time on the saw has been limited... very limited! I finally finished this cut from a BirchBark pattern using Maple with a Birch backer. The frame is pre-shaped Walnut and I shimmed the corners for strength. The cut is stained with Minwax Natural and the backer is stained with Minwax Espresso. The frame was pre-finished although I did touch it up with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. For the first time I used my new air sprayer with Polyacrylic and was pleased with the results. I cut it using Pegas #2/0, #0 and #1 spiral blades. I stack cut this but the other piece was Birch and delaminated in places when removing the shelf liner. I hope to paint it in the near future in hopes of hiding the delamination. I've about decided to start placing my wood face to face when doing cuts. I know I could only do this on pieces that were not limited in left or right such as patterns with words. But doing so will prevent delamination from happening on the face of the projects. For instance, the Jim Blume Stagecoach I cut was a double stack and faced different directions. I tell people one stage is going east and the other is going west.

So I started this multi-layer papercutting-lightbox pattern last year....then a bunch of family drama hit, and my cutting has been slowed down. Finally finished the pattern a month or two ago, but I really dislike cutting frames. Nope, dunno why, just don't care for it. So I finally got the frames cut, trimmed to size, a couple of pieces of opaque plexi sourced, LED strips applied, and final assembly done. One less project stacked up and moved from convenient-horizontal-space to convenient-horizontal-space in my shop. Stack-cut these, stained one with Minwax "Natural" and one with "Honey", and then alternated layers so that each layer stands out from the layer above and below. Still waiting on a power supply for one LED strip (the box that Amazon touted as having two....did indeed have two strips, but only one power supply with two ports to plug in both light strips to the one supply...so, technically, it works. But these two are going to be 20 miles apart and I doubt the cities of Austin, Cedar Park, and Leander would look kindly upon an extension cord of that length), but the one that's working is now up on the shelf at work.

Today, while cleaning up a bit I got to thinking about that nickle test I've read and seen on YouTube and thought..."I wonder". So I got a nickle put it on my Delta P-20 and cranked it on. After about 5 seconds the nickle fell over. Tried it several more times, and all the same result. I thought " well, kinda what I figured". Then went over to my King 16", I've had it about a year. Put the nickle on it's edge, cranked the King on, and.........there it stood, on edge, unphased by the scrollsaw running. I went thru the speed spectrum and it stayed on it's edge. I had always thought the P-20 was rock solid, practically vibration free, was I ever wrong. I know that when cutting on the King it was much easier to stay on line for me, never figured that a little vibration can make a difference. Anyhow, just a little part of my day, back to regularly scheduled programs.... Chris

#3 and # 5 Modified Geometry Pegus ( now) for almost everything. 2.0 Mfg for Alex Fox fretwork type patterns where the narrow kerf is needed.

I've been continuing on my learning curve with hand carving (as well as turning). These 4 ornaments were ones that I cut out on the scroll saw and then hand carved. The two "peekaboo" santa (triangular shaped) are patterns from Carolea Hower in the Winter 2016 edition of the Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. The other santa is a pattern from Jon Nelson that also appeared in the magazine 2017 (not sure of issue - but figure Winter perhaps.) The snowman with the NP sign is a pattern from Steve Russell, again from the Magazine, with 2016 copyright so assume the Winter 2016 for it. I scrolled the basic shape on the saw, then hand carved and finished. Will try some more and probably try to "paint" them but wanted to go with the natural look on these first ones. These can easily be adapted for use by a scroller without doing the carving. You can add in extra scrolling as needed, or just cut the basic shapes, and add a little detail with paints or woodburning. The Santa and the Snowman on the bottom had the darker details added with my woodburner after I completed the carving on each.

What would you bevel cut that was over a few degrees? Not arguing, just curious. Been scrolling a long time, tried almost all disciplines of scroll sawing and I have never tilted my table top or scroll say head more that a few degrees... Inlay is only a few degrees. Basket or bowl making maybe a few more degrees. I do like the Pegas method of tilting the table a little better than the seyco, but once I needed to tilt the seyco table and it was not a problem. Just not quit as nice as a pegas or Excalibor. The one thing that would push me toward the Pegas over the Seyco is price. But then if you wanted a bigger table on a Pegas, it price then is very close to the same. That big table is really nice. It would be a hard decision for me. Pegas would probably win because I have never had one. I would hate to buy the same saw twice. But not for me to worry, my Hegner is my last saw, unless my rich kids wanted to surprise me. So far they have not shown any desire to surprise me... still getting underwear, socks and a bad time for Christmas!!

Several of Steve’s patterns. The dyed pairs are cut from hard maple, the others are from cherry. Easy cut with a #1 mgt on the Pegas. Adding the hooks is a royal PITA. My wife and her friends loved them but I need to get out of the jewelry business as the time spent adding the hooks is not my cup of tea.

There is.

I mainly cut wall hangers in 1/4-inch although I usually double stack. My go to blades are the 2/0 to 1 Spirals, 2/0 to 3 MGT and 2/0 to 1 Skip Tooth, all by Pegas. Not only do I find them to be great blades, the service you get from artcraftersonline.com can't be beat. With the customer loyalty program Denny has, the cost of blades are less expensive than other places I've shopped.

My suggestion is to pick just a couple of things, styles, and concentrate on them. IMHO.... I think trying everything at once is confusing.

I'm just lurking on this thread to see pictures of Scrappile wearing the ear rings (why isn't there a eating popcorn emoji)

For years I used FD UR and Polar blades. Now that we are a Pegas dealer. I use mostly MGT in sizes #1 through #5. I do use #7 MGT for compound cutting.

One day it worked, and the next, it did not. This has been coming for a while, as it would occasionally stop for a short time and start running again after a short pause. I thought my foot switch was going bad. I don't have any voltage at the motor terminals and suspect the electronics have failed. I dusted off my old RBI Hawk and went to work. What a difference. It is time to retire the old Hawk and buy a new saw. I'm going to buy a Seyco. I made this decision almost two years after spending some time on the phone with Ray Seymore troubleshooting and rebuilding my EX21.

So ..... It was bought up in another thread I made. What are your go to blades and sizes you must have in your collection? So far I've got a few dozen each FDUR #2.0 through #7 apart from #3#5 which I have a gross each. Couple of dozen MGT #2.0 through #12 Couple dozen FD spiral #3.0 through #7 So make me a list and if you have a specific use for them please tell

Thanks all for the warm welcome. I've attached snapshot of my current work in progress, some Christmas decorations based on a design found all over the net. My small artistic addition is to use nicely figured Zebrawood. However, the offcut I obtained was essentially a 6"x4" which I then had to hand saw lengthways to create 1/2" "blanks" and then sand them flat. This particular example is finished with Boiled Linseed oil but on reflection, it's too dark so am currently making a new batch which will just be lacquered. All the best and happy cutting,

You've probably already tried this but if not, exercise both the on/off switch and the rheostat. They both are still able to collect both sawdust and corrosion in one form or another. I take it you've already eliminated the foot switch. Go looking for anyplace that any form of corrosion might have built up. It doesn't take much to form a sort of insulation and not let current pass through. Once you've eliminated all those things and still have the problem, then it's down to either the board or the motor. I've not heard of many problems with either of those though. Best of luck in your search.

Nice detail and presentation.

Very nice picture, well presented!

Want to mix things up huh? I'm like that too.. sometimes I like the challenge of doing something different.. I've even gone so far as when the blade is dull I've flipped it upside down for a challenge to cut the rest of the project out with blade upside down, LOL.. NOW.. if you use those blades that cut a degree off to one side.. upside down it's off a degree or so on the opposite side.. that's challenging...

very nice job

Sorry to hear that.. or maybe not? LOL.. good reason to buy that new seyco.. I see Seyco ow has a 24" I think it was 24.. Anyway they now have a larger model. I also seen where Seyco is now stocking parts for Pegas saws.. While most the other Pegas dealers are pretty good with customer service, Seyco knocks them out of the water for saw knowledge.. I wish I could like the Seyco saw more than I do.. but there are a couple things with the Seyco saw that kinda turns my interest to other saws like Pegas, King and Jet.. Seyco would be the last choice of these style saws unfortunately.. But their customer service and parts inventory etc.. is TOP notch. And now that they stock Pegas parts and also service Pegas.. That's a game changer in my opinion.. However, I service my own saws when they need it.. Nice to have a place that list parts and has them in stock.. One big reason I have not bought a Pegas is nobody was listing parts on their sites.. they show where you can send for repairs but I don't want / do that.. I just want the parts available to order online in the middle of the night.. not call during these times to order... I'm busy during the daytime hours.. I do most my purchasing at night online.. so convenience is important to me. I know Denny sells saws.. but you have to call or email through the buying process.. If I bought a Pegas I'd likely buy somewhere else just because I do like the convenience to order whenever.. Nothing against Denny I'd prefer to order from him.. in fact I'd probably have a Pegas saw by now if he had them on his site to order.. I don't care for Bearwood so they are also a no go for me as well. I've had a Pegas in my shopping cart at bearwood more than a few times and said nope, I'll call Denny tomorrow.. and then get busy and still haven't done that, LOL.. This has been going on for over a year now, LOL.. As ROLF said interesting about the Hawk.. but I also understand that the EX style saws seem to be a bit more aggressive and I know you do a bit more thick wood cutting.. so I can see your reasoning. If I'm doing fretwork and fine detailed work.. I prefer the Hawk, any thick wood cutting and not real detailed work I prefer the EX. My EX has been giving fits with the speed jumping around sometimes.. I know it's probably just the pot. switch.. I'll likely not repair it.. in fact thinking I'm going to be selling it soon. Not sure yet if I'll replace it or not.. nice to have that bit more aggressive cutting saw but having the newer Hawk and the slightly older Hawk I really don't need to replace it..

My go to blades are Pegas MGT #1, 3, and 5. I have many other blades but infrequently use them. I cut mostly 1/4" to 1/2" hardwoods, sometimes fretwork, but lately more often patterns. I am comfortable with these blades doing everything I like to do on the scrollsaw. I appreciate that there ae other blades that others of us like but do not see the need to try them.

Why Seyco and not the Pegas? If you do any bevel cutting the Seyco has a limited range. and the Pegas has the better clamps. Then again Ray has one of the best records when it comes to support. Interesting that you mention the Hawk. I am working on a Charles Hand design and was cutting it on my EX 16. I decided to do it on my Hawk G4 26 instead. I have the old delta quick clamps on it and more room.

I guess I'm getting old and senile ..

You should try PS Woods Super Sharps. In my experience they are the fastest cutting blades especially thicker woods and are the most expensive.

Nice work ! Would using applying the pattern directly to the wood with a repositionable spray glue which can be removed with a wipe of white spirit help with the delamination ?

Terrific work. I hope to be cutting some in the week but I have the added bonus of having a daughter that makes silver jewelry, she can add the fixings. Marg

Thanks John, as I said in another thread I'll give the Olsen's a try. + 1 on the Wooden Teady Bear that's where I've been getting my FD blades from !

Ray, I have two friends, who I used to drive the train in my Avatar with. It's a train in the Village Park just across town from where I live. Neither of them knew me before I drove the train. We are all retired from all of our jobs, and the train now. Perpetual vacation called retirement from now on. These two friends now get me to go to lunch with them every week, along with my wife and their wives, partly so they can get me to tell stories about my life experiences. I guess I've done quite a bit in this past 80 years. You, unfortunately, are a bit too far away to join us, but you are invited, if you ever visit on the right day. We meet on Wednesdays, usually, and mostly just 3 miles from my home here, usually at a fast food burger/chicken/ice cream restaurant called Culvers. I have always had an interest in learning things, and if I saw a way to get involved in something that I wanted to learn, I jumped in and learned it quickly. Many ventures in learning new things resulted from this method for me. In school, I wanted to learn more about auto mechanics, so I was asking questions of a friend whose father owned a gas station/service shop. It wasn't long before he asked me to come to his dad's garage and help him. His dad's friend had a 33 Ford race car and my school friend was doing many of the repairs on it for his dad's friend. I ended up helping my friend and his dad to keep this race car going and ready for Friday night racing. They took us with them to the races as thanks for what we did to get the car ready every week. I learned a lot about cars and racing, and I was still in high school. Be open minded and willing to learn new things that you are interested in. Find someone doing it and ask if you can help them. Learn as fast as they will teach you, but pick up every tid-bit that you can about this new venture. If working with them every day and learning quickly, you will suddenly realize that some other friends are coming to you when they need help. Pay isn't always in the form of money. Sometimes this knowledge is more valuable than money. The more you know, the more you can apply to a new job, new hobby, etc. One of these guys that I go to lunch with now, worked for the Post Office most of his career. For some reason, I have to drag him kicking and screaming into anything new, even if he needs to know it for something that he is doing. Learning to solder wires for his train set was one of these things. When I refused to do it for him and offered to sit with him to show him how, he finally let me teach him. It took a few hours of 1 on 1 instruction and trial and error, but then he went home and did it, with me critiquing his work via cell phone photos of his solder joints. That was a year ago and he is doing fine now, but is having similar problems with some other subjects that he needs to know, and is unwilling to learn, at least so far. I'll win, eventually, and force the knowledge into him somehow. Be open minded, and do whatever it takes to learn whatever it is that interests you. Take classes somewhere to get you started, if it is necessary. I went to night classes because I wanted to know refrigeration. Then I installed a complete HVAC system with air conditioning in my former house and then serviced refrigeration and heating systems as a part time business for over 10 years. A few years later I received a US Patent for a special cooling manifold that was needed for a job that I was working on (but I was the electrical engineer on the project). I now have 8 inventions formally patented or applied for. Because two of my uncles were carpenters and cabinet makers, I spent time watching, then helping them. My mom's brother taught me the most, and I worked for him for 2 Summers while still in high school, building cabinets and whole houses. I also took several woodworking classes and jewelry making in high school and worked on the stage sets, lighting for the shows, and movies in the auditorium. Just before graduation, the principal called me into his office and he was with another gentleman. They talked to me about stage work and then the gentleman offered me a Summer job, running the stage of his Summer Stock Theater. So, for 6 nights a week there was some kind of entertainment on that stage. A feature movie one night, Off Broadway entertainment another night, local plays, dances with music provided by rock groups who had recent hit records, local talent music shows, etc. So, with my high school experience, this job came looking for me. I've been a volunteer fireman since I was old enough to join. Why, because my uncles, 4 of my father's brothers and my father were all volunteer firemen. Also, my mom's dad was a paid fireman, so both sides of my family were firemen. When I was 2, my grandmother made me a fireman's uniform and hat just like my grandfather's, probably from his old uniforms, and I rode in the fire truck with my grandpa in several parades. As a volunteer fireman, I went to training sessions, and later taught the sessions. I learned fire investigation and became one of only a few in the county who were trained for that. I trained for, and then became an Emergency Medical Technician and then trained to be a paramedic for the fire company rescue squad. After moving to the Charlotte, NC area, I joined the local volunteer fire company, but was later asked to be the Fire Marshal of the company that I was working for. A 3.8 million sq ft research and manufacturing facility with 4 fire technicians. We didn't fight fires, except to contain them until the outside fire companies got there. Our job was mostly to keep up with the required fire equipment testing of all of the fire protection equipment and sprinkler systems, and meet with the County, State, and insurance inspectors and officers to prove compliance with the regulations and to learn about any changes or new requirements. Never turn down a chance to learn something that you think you are interested in. If the interest is strong enough and you can't get involved another way, maybe there are some night classes to get you started. Learn as much as you can, and in no time at all, people will be asking you for your help. That tells me that I have learned it, at least better than they have. An expert? Maybe not, but you will be better at it than them. I'm 80 and still learning. Never stop learning something new and interesting. Then do it the best that you can. Soon you will be even better at it than most others. Sorry to give this original post a sudden left turn. This was only intended as a response for Ray @OCToolguy, but I thought others might be interested too. I've left out a lot, but he will need to come here to visit or email me to learn more. Go back to 3D scrolling and the special clamps needed for it now. Charley

For years I used FD # 5 reverse tooth, still have two or three gross. Have not used one since I started using Pegas MGt # 3 and # 5. Occasionally a # 7. Never hurts to have blades to try on different woods though. I pretty much stack cut 1/8 bb and do some compound cutting. You will find what you like through trial and error. Lots of error for me at first. Your projects look good. After thinking about that I still have errors.

That's it stay right there, do not move, I will be back!

Those look great Melanie! Can't pick a favorite because I like them all. I'd love to have some of those on the tree.

Agreed! My go to is FDUR #3 and #5 that's why I have 2 gross of them, and I've found a need for a spiral blade every now and then. My problem is that I have no real idea what else there is or how they perform, also I haven't found my nitch yet and I'm cutting anything from 1/8 to 1 3/4 thick. Plywood, MDF,hardwood and pine. So asking this question helps me look at other blades to try, plus a dozen blades here and there won't break the bank.

I think you have more than enough blades. Your go to blades are related to what you cut, your saw and personal preference. What I like probably is not what you would like. You need to cut things and decide what you like.

I pretty much only use FDSR- 1,3,5 Jewelers blades- 2/0 I have a lot of others but use only those. My go to cuts are on 1/8" baltic birch, maybe 2 sheets together at times.

Must have blade hmmm. My most used blade is probably Pegas MGT #3 and #5 for cutting mostly 1/2" - 3/4" material whether it's hardwoods or stacked up 1/8" plywood. Next up is FD-NS #2/0 Spiral blades.. typically used for stack cutting up to 1/2" material typically stacks of 4 pieces of 1/8" BB ply. Also used for veining cuts in hardwood when cut was first made with flat blade then followed up with the spiral. I do not like spiral blades any larger than a #1 mostly use the 2/0. Now.. other blades I sometimes use in place of the Pegas MGT is sometimes the #3 - #5 UR or the same size in the SR. Depending on my mood and if I happen to be having length issues with the Pegas LOL.. All the blades above is my most used have to have on hand blade.. Now I keep probably 30 different brands and styles on hand but rarely use any of them on a regular basis.. and could probably do without them.. once gone they may not ever be ordered again.

I wasn't happy with the way the factory flexible light on my new Wen wandered from the vibration as I use it. I read that it was a common issue but bought the saw with the light anyhow, believing I could come up with a fix. But I didn't want to drill and tap the saw for any holding device. Instead I used a scrap of yellow pine to make this adaptive device. A 1/2 inch hole opened up with straight sides lets the gooseneck pop in and out as needed. Strong self-adhesive velcro on the two inside surfaces where the brace meets the saw keeps the bracket in place well. The short, unsupported section of gooseneck doesn't drift on me at all now. Kinda like holding it there in place with a third hand. Don

My observations are... -when I have to put more pressure to feed wood into the cut. -about 40min of countinous cutting with 0.75 inch thick wood with #1 mgt. -thinner blades dull faster. -when blades don't cut around corners, right vs left turns act different. This can also be low tension. -tight turns dull blades really fast. -harder or softer woods will change above conditions. .. every blade shows a slightly different angle to cut straight. When I install a new blade and the angle is way different it is usually a dull brand new blade. It happens sometimes. Be aware of bad batches also. I usually fight the new dull blade for a couple of inches and then decide to change it. :: I would be very interested in more experience users opinions.

Spray shellac, acrylic craft paints. Kevin’s concoction of mineral oil and beeswax. Dab it on with a acid brush, heat it up with a hair dryer, let it soak in. Wipe with lint free cloth. (Lately, this has been my go to finish, ya can’t screw it up. ) Minwax Antique Finish in the red can. BLO/mineral spirits.

In the main I use Danish Oil followed by a clear satin spray.

The deer, tree and star are done separately and are 1/2 to 5/8" tall. I try to make them a contrasting color or wood so they show up. I have made a few for my family and given a few away. For me, it takes a lot of concentration to cut these small things.

Too much fiddling with the clamps, Although I do use them on occasion. When I do I use clamps I use Don in Brookline's technique. 99 % of the time I just do a wrap of Clear packing tape after cutting the first side just to keep the bits in place. Simple and fast.

Very nicely done.

I have found that too much pressure causes pinching of the blade. Using sandpaper on the inside allows me to use less pressure and avoid binding I am certain that part of why I have designed these is making small object such as inside these ornaments. It would not be possible to hold these without the clamps.

For those who tried Steve's clamps and didn't like them, maybe your springs are too weak. It requires stiff spring pressure to keep the clamps tight on the work.

Thanks for posting that, I think you showed that sometime ago and I was going to add the springs.. Forgot because, well, I'm short on memory. I want to do some 3D cutting soon so will have to do the modicatiin. Need to find some springs.

These are my holders for doing compound cuts... I use a spring to keep constant pressure on the piece even after making a cut. The insides are covered with sandpaper to reduce slippage. I have added knobs on top to help better hold and maneuver the piece. With arthritis, this makes it much easier for me. I have several sizes depending on the size of the piece. I needed the small one as I have cut ones down to 5/8" tall.

I haven't tried the spring clamps but I have some small bar clamps.

I have 3 sizes of Steve Goods clamps and I have never had any problems with them. They work great, IKE

I made some from a Steve Good pattern, they work great. Go to his pattern catalog and put Compound cutting jig in search box