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So nice to have a hobby that allows you to create things fairly easily that you once would have thought near impossible. Request from a friend to give as a Christmas gift. Happy Halloween everybody!

Apologies for not posting in a while but I fell ill earlier in the year and have not been able to do much but I hope you are all well and I will get caught up with all your projects Anyway sorry onto the project made using 1/4 inch bb plywood using a #2 spiral blade then painted with acrylic paints and spray varnished and while still wet a sprinkle of glitter made for a customer whose little girl loves mini mouse,I adapted a colouring in page of mini I found online,thanks for looking take care

Hey everyone, Here is my latest project. The pattern is called "Cottontail Express" and is from a book I purchased called "North American Wildlife Patterns For The Scroll Saw" by Lora S. Irish. I think the wood is Yew as I was given a piece some months ago and it is about 3/4 of an inch thick. After cutting, I simply gave it a couple of coats of oil. Hope you like it, constructive criticism welcomed, Regards, Alan.

Decided to start some of my Christmas gifts early. I used Steve Good's ornament and stand pattern. I did modify the 1/8 BBPW ornaments. I had my wife "flip" the pattern and made 2 of the names are the same but the base pattern is booked matched. I had some 1/8" green and red plex-a-glas and glued it between the 2 ornaments. The stand is poplar and finish is shellac and gloss lacquer. Gifts are for my neighbors.

So I started this multi-layer papercutting-lightbox pattern last year....then a bunch of family drama hit, and my cutting has been slowed down. Finally finished the pattern a month or two ago, but I really dislike cutting frames. Nope, dunno why, just don't care for it. So I finally got the frames cut, trimmed to size, a couple of pieces of opaque plexi sourced, LED strips applied, and final assembly done. One less project stacked up and moved from convenient-horizontal-space to convenient-horizontal-space in my shop. Stack-cut these, stained one with Minwax "Natural" and one with "Honey", and then alternated layers so that each layer stands out from the layer above and below. Still waiting on a power supply for one LED strip (the box that Amazon touted as having two....did indeed have two strips, but only one power supply with two ports to plug in both light strips to the one supply...so, technically, it works. But these two are going to be 20 miles apart and I doubt the cities of Austin, Cedar Park, and Leander would look kindly upon an extension cord of that length), but the one that's working is now up on the shelf at work.

Bit late, but I did this 'treat' tray.

Hey Everyone! In this scroll saw project video I make this spooky Grim Reaper piece that is back lit by an electronic tea light. This Steve Good design uses 1/2 inch material and is a great little project! Hope you all like the video and have a Happy Halloween 2022! #ArtisanPirate

I made these on request for some customers out of 1/4 inch bb plywood and then painted using acrylic paints and then coated with varnish,the big skeleton was painted white then I went over with glow in the dark paint(but forgot to take picture of it completed)candle holder also glows in the dark hanks for looking happy Halloween

Hello from SE Michigan! Earlier this year I decided to fire up my old Protech 16" scroll saw and start fiddling around with it. Now I'm hooked. I'm having a blast. I'm glad I found your site. Thank you! Chris

Zebra wood with Odie's oil finish cut with Pegas MG #7 on my Seyco Saw

I have tried a number of spray can finishes. I like flat sheen. YMMV. The polyurethanes took too long to dry, but the best was the Deft exterior semi-gloss. Spray lacquers tried much faster. Mohawk exterior flat is the current favorite and quite affordable. "Dead flat" is too flat, even for me.

I had the same problem when I got my hawk. I got a few of the plastic clips Kevin mentioned so I would have some on hand in case I broke one.

very nice

I have a Seyco , bought it four years ago. It gets lots of use, only issue I ever had with it is some screw bolts came loose and I had to put some lock-tite on the arm adjustment threads as for the blade clamps. I put Pegas on my Dewalt not much difference. As for bevel/ angle cutting I don't mind the Seyco idea. The magnetic sheet that sits on the table did wear out and shipping to where I live is expensive but a magnetic sign material has been a good replacement

Okay,, been 3D cutting for several days now.. I've proven two things to myself. I started out no clamps. not tape.. I'm tough, no need.. After cutting three pieces,, hands cramping, fingers really sore from trying to stop the thing when it started bucking and bouncing... I thought, were is that clamp I built for this? It was right were I thought I had put it, that had to be an omen of some kind.. then try tape, just in case it really helps... I have always been dubious about the tape claims... So the new me using clamp and tape... I have cut two+ in the time it took me to do one before. The tape does help. Must lub something because I could cut faster. The camp so much more control... So take the time to save time and pain. Use whatever clamp works best for you, and do use packing tape.

I use these casters on my workbench.

I use rustoleum clear gloss on most everything. It comes in gloss, semi gloss and satin. I like that it isn't yellowish, so works on painted stuff. Plus I can get it at several places locally.

With the change in hours at work, my time on the saw has been limited... very limited! I finally finished this cut from a BirchBark pattern using Maple with a Birch backer. The frame is pre-shaped Walnut and I shimmed the corners for strength. The cut is stained with Minwax Natural and the backer is stained with Minwax Espresso. The frame was pre-finished although I did touch it up with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. For the first time I used my new air sprayer with Polyacrylic and was pleased with the results. I cut it using Pegas #2/0, #0 and #1 spiral blades. I stack cut this but the other piece was Birch and delaminated in places when removing the shelf liner. I hope to paint it in the near future in hopes of hiding the delamination. I've about decided to start placing my wood face to face when doing cuts. I know I could only do this on pieces that were not limited in left or right such as patterns with words. But doing so will prevent delamination from happening on the face of the projects. For instance, the Jim Blume Stagecoach I cut was a double stack and faced different directions. I tell people one stage is going east and the other is going west.

I've been continuing on my learning curve with hand carving (as well as turning). These 4 ornaments were ones that I cut out on the scroll saw and then hand carved. The two "peekaboo" santa (triangular shaped) are patterns from Carolea Hower in the Winter 2016 edition of the Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. The other santa is a pattern from Jon Nelson that also appeared in the magazine 2017 (not sure of issue - but figure Winter perhaps.) The snowman with the NP sign is a pattern from Steve Russell, again from the Magazine, with 2016 copyright so assume the Winter 2016 for it. I scrolled the basic shape on the saw, then hand carved and finished. Will try some more and probably try to "paint" them but wanted to go with the natural look on these first ones. These can easily be adapted for use by a scroller without doing the carving. You can add in extra scrolling as needed, or just cut the basic shapes, and add a little detail with paints or woodburning. The Santa and the Snowman on the bottom had the darker details added with my woodburner after I completed the carving on each.

Hey guys, does anyone know where I can buy this pattern? I'm pretty sure its a bruce worthington pattern but I can't find it . Thx. I think I may have found it on WTB site. I

We we don't except in some medical places, but I have started wearing one when I am scrolling... Just to see if it helps with the runny nose. I don't have the good dust collection anymore, just a box fan with filter beside my saw. I picks up a lot. But the masks are free at our pharmacy, They are the N95 masks, do I decided to give it a try. And how can you trick or treat without a mask! I put it on when I head to towards the candy dish also, then Patti doesn't know who I am.

Very nice well done I am sure they will be well received

Beautiful, they will be treasured I'm sure.

Update... I have had my Vyper chair for quite a while now. I sit in it over 3 hr at a time without my but going numb. I would recommend the screw adjustment version due to it going a bit lower. My bench is a bit higher so the chair I got works well. Now I ran across a pretty interesting chair called catperch. It is used for telescope viewing. But I think it would be good for scrollsawing also. The mini version for scrollsawing. https://www.wood-wonders.com/catsperch-chairs/ Plans or kits or fully assembled are available. Me. Mark Eason

Sounds like you need a new blade holder clip or adjustment to the one you have if it's the metal one. This is what you need for a round barrel style clamp https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/barrel-style-blade-holder-clip/ This is the one if you have a Ultra saw. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/ultra-blade-holder-clip/ The newer saws they made these from spring steel so you can adjust them ( bend the metal up tighter to the holder ) but the older style use a plastic clip and over time the plastic gets weak and doesn't hold the blade holder well. I imagine one could make one from some spring steel fairly easy.. if you're able to bend and form the metal around the blade holder to mold the shape etc.. Not rocket science and sure beats crawling around searching the the blade holder.

Since I'm charging for this one I suppose a that makes me a pro.

Glad you are feeling better. Very nice project you have created.

Those are really very nice!

Awesome work !

Thanks for the tip , just might might make the change

Bowls

I just finished cutting 24 3D reindeer where I accidentally tested the tape. On some of the patterns, I forgot to add the tape. I would be cutting a reindeer and wondering why this new blade was so dull. Then I noticed the tape was missing and added tape. Suddenly the blade was cutting as I would expect. In one of his books, Patrick Speilman says the tape has silicon on the top of the tape to keep it from adhering to itself. The silicon is what lubricates the blade. I use a lot of packing tape, and different brands may be manufactured differently. They are not all the same. This accounts for the variation you see in the results. 3M tape works, as does the Staples store brand.

Awesome work. Marg

The two on the left, and the wolf howling at the moon on the far right are lights (wolf was my first lightbox, ordered the LED's and didn't notice it was a battery pack power supply until after I'd attached the lights and went to connect the power. Oops. Need to scrounge some batteries for it, they died. The dragon warrior and WW1 dogfight are just straight wood, no lights behind.

I did check the Link and Wow! If I ever decide on a Movable base I would buy these casters for sure. They remind me of a Fender on a Racecar. Hehehehehehe Danny :+}

What would you bevel cut that was over a few degrees? Not arguing, just curious. Been scrolling a long time, tried almost all disciplines of scroll sawing and I have never tilted my table top or scroll say head more that a few degrees... Inlay is only a few degrees. Basket or bowl making maybe a few more degrees. I do like the Pegas method of tilting the table a little better than the seyco, but once I needed to tilt the seyco table and it was not a problem. Just not quit as nice as a pegas or Excalibor. The one thing that would push me toward the Pegas over the Seyco is price. But then if you wanted a bigger table on a Pegas, it price then is very close to the same. That big table is really nice. It would be a hard decision for me. Pegas would probably win because I have never had one. I would hate to buy the same saw twice. But not for me to worry, my Hegner is my last saw, unless my rich kids wanted to surprise me. So far they have not shown any desire to surprise me... still getting underwear, socks and a bad time for Christmas!!

Thanks all for the warm welcome. I've attached snapshot of my current work in progress, some Christmas decorations based on a design found all over the net. My small artistic addition is to use nicely figured Zebrawood. However, the offcut I obtained was essentially a 6"x4" which I then had to hand saw lengthways to create 1/2" "blanks" and then sand them flat. This particular example is finished with Boiled Linseed oil but on reflection, it's too dark so am currently making a new batch which will just be lacquered. All the best and happy cutting,

When I made my scroll saw stand (wood 4x4 legs) I put retractable casters on it like the ones below from Amazon. It allows me to move it around and then lower stand legs to go directly on the floor. Pleased with it - not too expensive and easy to install them. Ronlap Workbench Casters Kit 880 Lbs Capacity, 3" Extra Heavy Duty Retractable Casters 4 Pack, Side Mounted Adjustable Table Stepdown Casters

UP!

Very nice, RJ

Very cool!

Really nice!

That is a great job! I'm a little confused are all those lights?

terrific job

Sorry to hear that.. or maybe not? LOL.. good reason to buy that new seyco.. I see Seyco ow has a 24" I think it was 24.. Anyway they now have a larger model. I also seen where Seyco is now stocking parts for Pegas saws.. While most the other Pegas dealers are pretty good with customer service, Seyco knocks them out of the water for saw knowledge.. I wish I could like the Seyco saw more than I do.. but there are a couple things with the Seyco saw that kinda turns my interest to other saws like Pegas, King and Jet.. Seyco would be the last choice of these style saws unfortunately.. But their customer service and parts inventory etc.. is TOP notch. And now that they stock Pegas parts and also service Pegas.. That's a game changer in my opinion.. However, I service my own saws when they need it.. Nice to have a place that list parts and has them in stock.. One big reason I have not bought a Pegas is nobody was listing parts on their sites.. they show where you can send for repairs but I don't want / do that.. I just want the parts available to order online in the middle of the night.. not call during these times to order... I'm busy during the daytime hours.. I do most my purchasing at night online.. so convenience is important to me. I know Denny sells saws.. but you have to call or email through the buying process.. If I bought a Pegas I'd likely buy somewhere else just because I do like the convenience to order whenever.. Nothing against Denny I'd prefer to order from him.. in fact I'd probably have a Pegas saw by now if he had them on his site to order.. I don't care for Bearwood so they are also a no go for me as well. I've had a Pegas in my shopping cart at bearwood more than a few times and said nope, I'll call Denny tomorrow.. and then get busy and still haven't done that, LOL.. This has been going on for over a year now, LOL.. As ROLF said interesting about the Hawk.. but I also understand that the EX style saws seem to be a bit more aggressive and I know you do a bit more thick wood cutting.. so I can see your reasoning. If I'm doing fretwork and fine detailed work.. I prefer the Hawk, any thick wood cutting and not real detailed work I prefer the EX. My EX has been giving fits with the speed jumping around sometimes.. I know it's probably just the pot. switch.. I'll likely not repair it.. in fact thinking I'm going to be selling it soon. Not sure yet if I'll replace it or not.. nice to have that bit more aggressive cutting saw but having the newer Hawk and the slightly older Hawk I really don't need to replace it..

I love post about the favorite blades. I have come to the conclusion it is the blade you get used to. I have been a diehard FD-UR and #3 and #1. For compound I have tried everything but my go to is FD polar. When I teach scrolling 101 I start everyone with UR #3 as they are less aggressive than Pegas MGT blades plus you get cleaner cut. Once you get cutting technique down try other blades until you find the one that suits you best.

Last two Halloween lanterns I'm doing this year!

I use mostly Watco oil in natural color. I bought a gallon and keep it in a plastic tub with lid. I submerge my project and roll it around letting the oil soak in. I then hang it over the tub and let it drip dry. After about 10 minutes I do a good wipe down with a lint free rag. It then sits for at least 4 days to dry depending on weather. I sometimes spray a coat or 2 of Zinnser's shellac or a coat of Johnson's paste wax. Try to keep it simple. I'm not gifted enough to do any high gloss finishes. Yet!

Many of us like a stand that tillts the scrollsaw towards us. This helps us to see the pattern and blade without leaning forward.

Double duty chair wore out. My wife surprised me with a new chair. She got the tall version to match the Hawk stand. . I use the chair for work from home. I moved my day job corporate computer in the garage so my indoor cats do not bother me. So I roll it to the scroll saw for double duty. Daily use wore out my old chair fast. I am 5'9 at 200 lb. We took the old one to upulstery shop they want >$200 just for materials. If they did it it would 4 month wait plus $labor. The new chair was delivered Monday night. I need it on lowest setting for scroll saw and 3 inches higher for work bench. here is a pic old vs new....