Leaderboard

Gave this pattern a shot today that Paul (Granpa) was kind enough to do for me. Hope I did it justice. He even did the pattern over for me and made the letters a little bigger for me. I don’t know what we would do without these pattern makers. Thanks again Paul. It was greatly appreciated. A few coats of poly on it and it will be done.

So nice to have a hobby that allows you to create things fairly easily that you once would have thought near impossible. Request from a friend to give as a Christmas gift. Happy Halloween everybody!

This is Russ Beard pattern, it’s going slowly, because I had other things to attend to but hope to make some good progress this week.

Bonjour tout le monde, I like westerns movies (even spaghetti's western movies) I have one small periods western movies currently. I haven't very satisfied of my job (never) but I show it to you anyway. I hope you'll like it (or not) Eric

Decided to start some of my Christmas gifts early. I used Steve Good's ornament and stand pattern. I did modify the 1/8 BBPW ornaments. I had my wife "flip" the pattern and made 2 of the names are the same but the base pattern is booked matched. I had some 1/8" green and red plex-a-glas and glued it between the 2 ornaments. The stand is poplar and finish is shellac and gloss lacquer. Gifts are for my neighbors.

Apologies for not posting in a while but I fell ill earlier in the year and have not been able to do much but I hope you are all well and I will get caught up with all your projects Anyway sorry onto the project made using 1/4 inch bb plywood using a #2 spiral blade then painted with acrylic paints and spray varnished and while still wet a sprinkle of glitter made for a customer whose little girl loves mini mouse,I adapted a colouring in page of mini I found online,thanks for looking take care

Hey everyone, Here is my latest project. The pattern is called "Cottontail Express" and is from a book I purchased called "North American Wildlife Patterns For The Scroll Saw" by Lora S. Irish. I think the wood is Yew as I was given a piece some months ago and it is about 3/4 of an inch thick. After cutting, I simply gave it a couple of coats of oil. Hope you like it, constructive criticism welcomed, Regards, Alan.

I know I am stretching it a bit but this could be a Thanksgiving centerpiece.........Lol. This is another example of adding color to scrolling. Art-work was done on paper using color felt-tip markers, a copy of the art-work was made and glued (Mod Podged) to the wood.............quick and simple......Happy Holidays.

Bit late, but I did this 'treat' tray.

Hi Anyone know of a Motor Scooter Clock design that I could use please. I have attached one a made a few years ago but not saved the Drawing.

I've seen a "sandbox" article as well, but opted to use two layers of 1 1/4" thick boards, giving me a 2 1/2" base with a layer of thick carpet between the board and the scroll saw. No problems with vibration.

excellent job

I was on the phone with Ray Seymore yesterday and got a few tips I had yet to consider and instructions on removing the circuit board. I have yet to have a chance to do this, with it being Halloween and a custom order that came in. Custom orders are why I have two saws.

My Hawk Model Number is 220, and it is a two-speed. I bought it cheap from someone who purchased it with a shop full of woodworking tools and never used it. I cleaned it up, replaced some parts, and upgraded everything I could. It worked well and considerably better than the AMT cast iron saw I used for years. A few things I don't like. The blade changes and making internal cuts are a pain. While it isn't a huge issue, I'm not too fond of aluminum tables and prefer steel or cast iron. This saw has exposed electrical connections under the bottom of the saw. I have been considering replacing it for a couple of years and would like to pick up another used EX21. However, good quality scroll saws are rare in the used market where I live.

Mine is steel, and it is very tight., Fortunately, it rarely falls out. The one in your link has sides on it. Mine does not. I may get one of those and see if it fits.

Hi All. For the last few years, I've been creating custom ornament business kits. It basically is a scroll saw business kit with everything you need to promote, create, and sell personalized Christmas ornaments. Everybody seemed to really like it, so I created another version with all new designs for 2022! I like to think of it as a mini scroll saw business-in-a-box. With this kit, you can create as many custom ornament patterns as you want. You can easily personalize them with someone's name or date. You can sell your custom ornaments to friends and family, online places like Etsy, or for craft fairs and church bizarres. You can also sell custom patterns to your fellow scrollers! Here's an overview of how the kit works: This year's Custom Ornament Kit is on sale for 50% off through Cyber Monday! So right now, you can pick it up for only $10, which is a screamin' deal! It's my way of saying Thank You for being a part of SSV and making it such a great place to be. I hope you find it useful. Happy Holidays, y'all!

Very well done, Ralph.

Very well done.

My first saw, which I never did use, was a 2 speed Hawk bought in about 1986 at a Woodworking Show in Colorado Springs. I bought it without ever thinking about what I'd use it for. So it never got used. 26" throat if I recall.

I have taped the completely cut blocks together and given them to relatives, along with a dull blade, so they can see what cuts them as well as seeing all of the pieces fall away. When taping, I fold the end back on itself, to make it easy for them to find and un-tape the block in the correct sequence. One cousin called me and then un-taped the block while on the phone with me, so I heard her surprises and excitement as each piece of tape came off. It's worth doing for friends that you can't be with as they are discovering what you made them. Charley

So last year, we were blessed and got 11 designers to donate a total of 55 new ornament patterns. This year, I'd like to beat last year's submissions. I know it can be done, because we've done it in the past. How great would it be to get 55 or more new ornament patterns in this year's book? The last few of year's has been tough, so this is a great way to give back. All skill levels are welcome. The goal is to create a really cool eBook that will benefit those in need. I'm designing. Who's with me!?

It's been a lot of years since they made a 2 speed Hawks.. You have one of those old saws that is a PIA to use, LOL I can certainly see why you have little interest in using it. Especially cutting thicker stock. Hope you get the Excalibur up and running with Rays advice of things to check.

That is awesome. Letters are perfect.

I have seen several places that recommend adding a sandbox to a scroll saw stand to reduce vibration. It's in one of Nick Engler's books, for sure. It is a sealed wood box full of sand mounted to the base of the scroll saw to reduce vibration. Have you built one of these?

have my excalibur and Seyco mounted on a cabinet I built. I purt a bag of concrete in the bottom.. It helped some. The cabinet was on castors so it was part of the problem.

When we first moved to where we are now , I had alot of problems with my polymax - it shook like crazy , i tried making a large square work bench thinking it might work , it didnt - I tried a recycled rubber mat ( about a 1 1/2' thick - didnt work - So i took a view point of doing it right so i cut a area out of my floor ( between joists ) used the iron rebars , crossed them , wired them together - and had a concrete pad poured - made it big enough for three saws - and it is great . Not a cheap solution - but a commercial solution

Thank you. Yes. Thanks to a great tutorial by @Travis.

I haven't heard of this, but it sounds like a good idea. I have mine bolted to my work bench with a piece of 2"x2" under the back of the saw.. There will be a fair few answers to this question I would imagine as most seem to have scrollsaw stands.

Very nice.

great job

awesome job

I wish I had known about the Vyper chair when I purchased my stool I would have bought one.

Terrific team work. Well done. Marg

They are excellent. I am sure they will be well received. Marg

Willow will certainly love it, I know I do, well done. Take things easy, one day at a time. Marg

It looks great Charlie, well done. Did you make the pattern? Marg

Take care and do what you can when you can. I love this piece.

I had the same problem when I got my hawk. I got a few of the plastic clips Kevin mentioned so I would have some on hand in case I broke one.

Sounds like you need a new blade holder clip or adjustment to the one you have if it's the metal one. This is what you need for a round barrel style clamp https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/barrel-style-blade-holder-clip/ This is the one if you have a Ultra saw. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/ultra-blade-holder-clip/ The newer saws they made these from spring steel so you can adjust them ( bend the metal up tighter to the holder ) but the older style use a plastic clip and over time the plastic gets weak and doesn't hold the blade holder well. I imagine one could make one from some spring steel fairly easy.. if you're able to bend and form the metal around the blade holder to mold the shape etc.. Not rocket science and sure beats crawling around searching the the blade holder.

the clamp falling out or flying out when a blade breaks can happen on the Hegner also. Can be a pain.

I have a Seyco , bought it four years ago. It gets lots of use, only issue I ever had with it is some screw bolts came loose and I had to put some lock-tite on the arm adjustment threads as for the blade clamps. I put Pegas on my Dewalt not much difference. As for bevel/ angle cutting I don't mind the Seyco idea. The magnetic sheet that sits on the table did wear out and shipping to where I live is expensive but a magnetic sign material has been a good replacement

I made these on request for some customers out of 1/4 inch bb plywood and then painted using acrylic paints and then coated with varnish,the big skeleton was painted white then I went over with glow in the dark paint(but forgot to take picture of it completed)candle holder also glows in the dark hanks for looking happy Halloween

I have tried them all, and they all work. However, most of them have one common problem. As you cut, the clamp loosens because you are removing wood, and you need to retighten the clamp repeatedly as you cut. I trued a shop-made clamp that had springs to take up the slack, and that would have worked except for the spring I had was just too weak and would move. Then I thought about the spring clamp. Spring clamps have a spring that will take up slack as you cut. The first ones I tried did not work well. They were too small and weak to stay in place, so I went to the largest ones I had. These clamps have a strong spring, and I have difficulty opening them with my weak hand. Perfect. The large spring clamps stayed where I put them and kept the parts aligned. As a bonus, being made out of plastic, they will not damage the blade if you should accidentally hit the clamp.

Okay,, been 3D cutting for several days now.. I've proven two things to myself. I started out no clamps. not tape.. I'm tough, no need.. After cutting three pieces,, hands cramping, fingers really sore from trying to stop the thing when it started bucking and bouncing... I thought, were is that clamp I built for this? It was right were I thought I had put it, that had to be an omen of some kind.. then try tape, just in case it really helps... I have always been dubious about the tape claims... So the new me using clamp and tape... I have cut two+ in the time it took me to do one before. The tape does help. Must lub something because I could cut faster. The camp so much more control... So take the time to save time and pain. Use whatever clamp works best for you, and do use packing tape.

What would you bevel cut that was over a few degrees? Not arguing, just curious. Been scrolling a long time, tried almost all disciplines of scroll sawing and I have never tilted my table top or scroll say head more that a few degrees... Inlay is only a few degrees. Basket or bowl making maybe a few more degrees. I do like the Pegas method of tilting the table a little better than the seyco, but once I needed to tilt the seyco table and it was not a problem. Just not quit as nice as a pegas or Excalibor. The one thing that would push me toward the Pegas over the Seyco is price. But then if you wanted a bigger table on a Pegas, it price then is very close to the same. That big table is really nice. It would be a hard decision for me. Pegas would probably win because I have never had one. I would hate to buy the same saw twice. But not for me to worry, my Hegner is my last saw, unless my rich kids wanted to surprise me. So far they have not shown any desire to surprise me... still getting underwear, socks and a bad time for Christmas!!

You've probably already tried this but if not, exercise both the on/off switch and the rheostat. They both are still able to collect both sawdust and corrosion in one form or another. I take it you've already eliminated the foot switch. Go looking for anyplace that any form of corrosion might have built up. It doesn't take much to form a sort of insulation and not let current pass through. Once you've eliminated all those things and still have the problem, then it's down to either the board or the motor. I've not heard of many problems with either of those though. Best of luck in your search.

I learned that the best way to open the ring is to twist it so it maintains the round. So when I make earrings, I will use small needle nose pliers one on each side of the joint and twist. Hope this makes sense.

These are my holders for doing compound cuts... I use a spring to keep constant pressure on the piece even after making a cut. The insides are covered with sandpaper to reduce slippage. I have added knobs on top to help better hold and maneuver the piece. With arthritis, this makes it much easier for me. I have several sizes depending on the size of the piece. I needed the small one as I have cut ones down to 5/8" tall.

I made some from a Steve Good pattern, they work great. Go to his pattern catalog and put Compound cutting jig in search box

Hello, this hanging cat is one of my first project from Steve Good's pattern catalog.