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This is Russ Beard pattern, it’s going slowly, because I had other things to attend to but hope to make some good progress this week.

Bonjour tout le monde, I like westerns movies (even spaghetti's western movies) I have one small periods western movies currently. I haven't very satisfied of my job (never) but I show it to you anyway. I hope you'll like it (or not) Eric

So nice to have a hobby that allows you to create things fairly easily that you once would have thought near impossible. Request from a friend to give as a Christmas gift. Happy Halloween everybody!

Apologies for not posting in a while but I fell ill earlier in the year and have not been able to do much but I hope you are all well and I will get caught up with all your projects Anyway sorry onto the project made using 1/4 inch bb plywood using a #2 spiral blade then painted with acrylic paints and spray varnished and while still wet a sprinkle of glitter made for a customer whose little girl loves mini mouse,I adapted a colouring in page of mini I found online,thanks for looking take care

Gave this pattern a shot today that Paul (Granpa) was kind enough to do for me. Hope I did it justice. He even did the pattern over for me and made the letters a little bigger for me. I don’t know what we would do without these pattern makers. Thanks again Paul. It was greatly appreciated. A few coats of poly on it and it will be done.

Decided to start some of my Christmas gifts early. I used Steve Good's ornament and stand pattern. I did modify the 1/8 BBPW ornaments. I had my wife "flip" the pattern and made 2 of the names are the same but the base pattern is booked matched. I had some 1/8" green and red plex-a-glas and glued it between the 2 ornaments. The stand is poplar and finish is shellac and gloss lacquer. Gifts are for my neighbors.

Paul, you are lucky you are not me as I get asked year around why I wear my mask....I have to reply, in all honesty, that I am not wearing a mask and this is my normal, God given face. Dick heppnerguy

Hey everyone, Here is my latest project. The pattern is called "Cottontail Express" and is from a book I purchased called "North American Wildlife Patterns For The Scroll Saw" by Lora S. Irish. I think the wood is Yew as I was given a piece some months ago and it is about 3/4 of an inch thick. After cutting, I simply gave it a couple of coats of oil. Hope you like it, constructive criticism welcomed, Regards, Alan.

My EX21 is down and I get three custom orders. Go figure. This is why I have two saws even if the second one is old an clunky it will still get the job done.

I have made many of these turkeys based on a Patrick Speilman pattern. The turkey is one of those patterns that doesn't look like much on paper and then looks excellent after you cut it and put it together. I made the first ones for a preshool that wanted them for the kids to paint, and I have been making them ever since.

I had not picked up on this previously and had to look. I found 2 versions of Watco Teak Oil listed on the HD website. The cans look the same but the prices differ by more than 2X. I could not find any difference in the HD listing and had to go into the SDS to find the difference. The more expensive one is 275VOC and the solvent listed is Ester Alcohol. The less expensive one appears to be 350VOC and the solvent listed is Naptha. There might be other differences but I stopped reading there.

In today's ScrollSawWorkshop newsletter, Steve Good does a walk-through of his shop. For scroll saws he says that he has 2 which he uses regularly, Seyco and Pegas, and another 5 that he seldom uses. I trust his opinion about scroll saws.

You could remove the fish and replace it with an Aardvark or, Armadillo.

Yeah, The single speed and 3 speed ran by belt to change speeds on some of them. They was all mostly pre-90's saws.. The old 220VS I had was a 1993 that I got really cheap was my first one.. Took a couple hundred to get it running right as it needed work. Great old saw but nothing close to the new saws with the blade being out in front of the angle mechanism etc.. much better for changing blades etc.. While those old saws ran fairly smooth once tuned good, I doubt one could pass the Nickle test..

I know I am stretching it a bit but this could be a Thanksgiving centerpiece.........Lol. This is another example of adding color to scrolling. Art-work was done on paper using color felt-tip markers, a copy of the art-work was made and glued (Mod Podged) to the wood.............quick and simple......Happy Holidays.

We we don't except in some medical places, but I have started wearing one when I am scrolling... Just to see if it helps with the runny nose. I don't have the good dust collection anymore, just a box fan with filter beside my saw. I picks up a lot. But the masks are free at our pharmacy, They are the N95 masks, do I decided to give it a try. And how can you trick or treat without a mask! I put it on when I head to towards the candy dish also, then Patti doesn't know who I am.

Hey Everyone! In this scroll saw project video I make this spooky Grim Reaper piece that is back lit by an electronic tea light. This Steve Good design uses 1/2 inch material and is a great little project! Hope you all like the video and have a Happy Halloween 2022! #ArtisanPirate

Took me a couple of momments to notice the fish.

I figure there's a chance the fish might survive the great flood without the ark lol

Halloween is over, now we're into November. This time of year always reminds me of big meals with the family with Thanksgiving and Christmas. We'd break out our nice tablecloths, dishes, and silverware. Then we'd share a meal with the family. So I this scroll saw challenge is about the table. It's pretty open to interpretation. But anything you'd use for sharing a meal with your family, table decoration, or personalization. So these could be things like trivets, napkin holder, name card holders, centerpieces, serving items, etc. When you post, maybe tell us a little family tradition you have. It'll be fun to see what you come up with.

I found this free Dragonfly Pattern on-line and realized it would make a good box type Nightlight Lamp. I used solid 1/4” thick Red Oak for the body and connectors, and 1/2” thick (planed down from ¾” thick material) for the Top and Base. The four body sides are 5 1/2” wide x 11 1/2” tall and were stack cut with Pegas #1 MGT R Blades. All chamfering and mitering was done on the table saw. The Top sits loose on the top of the body to allow access for bulb changing. The natural Red Oak color was darkened with one quick wipe on wipe off coat of Minwax Red Oak stain. All stained surfaces were finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer prior to installation of the Amber Cast 1/8” thick Translucent Acrylic panels. The panels are held in place with small dabs of Gel Superglue. I originally intended to use a 25W LED bulb but found that it was too bright. I replaced it with 10W clear nightlight lamp bulb. However, I plan to add some translucent velum sheets, attached with spray adhesive, to the inside face of the Amber panels and see if the lamp has a nicer soft glow with the 25W bulb. I was very unhappy with the much too transparent plexi with either the 10W or 25W bulb. Applied Translucent Velum using spray adheasive to the inside on each side. Now with the 25W LED Candlelabra bulb the glow is much softer amd you can't see inside. Next time I make a lamp like this I have to remember to apply the velum to the plexi before inserting them . Comments and critiques always welcome.

I've been continuing on my learning curve with hand carving (as well as turning). These 4 ornaments were ones that I cut out on the scroll saw and then hand carved. The two "peekaboo" santa (triangular shaped) are patterns from Carolea Hower in the Winter 2016 edition of the Woodcarving Illustrated magazine. The other santa is a pattern from Jon Nelson that also appeared in the magazine 2017 (not sure of issue - but figure Winter perhaps.) The snowman with the NP sign is a pattern from Steve Russell, again from the Magazine, with 2016 copyright so assume the Winter 2016 for it. I scrolled the basic shape on the saw, then hand carved and finished. Will try some more and probably try to "paint" them but wanted to go with the natural look on these first ones. These can easily be adapted for use by a scroller without doing the carving. You can add in extra scrolling as needed, or just cut the basic shapes, and add a little detail with paints or woodburning. The Santa and the Snowman on the bottom had the darker details added with my woodburner after I completed the carving on each.

Just beginning my scrolling journey but as I have done for decades with my journeys, I'm already looking toward the future. It appears to me that there is a large price jump when going from an 18 inch throat to the 21 or 22 inch throat size. I am confident about what sorts of scrollwork I expect and am interested in doing and the smaller , 18 inch size models fit my needs and shop size. Specifically, I've been studying the Jet 18 inch and the King Industrial 18 inch. Are there others I'm not aware of in that price category and size please? I'll say, the Jet upper blade holding system does sound attractive. Thank you . Don

Some time ago ( probably been a couple years LOL. Funny I can remember this but can't remember why I went to the Kitchen LOL) there was a topic about Danish Oil not drying very fast.. I've not had the issue and for the most part I have always bought locally at a wood / lumber store that's similar to woodcraft. During the pandemic with all the lockdowns I was unable to go out and get it so I ordered from Home Depot and what they had was limited because as you may have experienced the shortages of things. For some reason they have 3 different listings of the gallon sized and range in price from just one finger to a arm, and then also an arm and a leg, . So I got to thinking about this price thing and started looking closer at those 3 different Natural color oils. The cheapest one they have says 8 hours to dry to the touch.. the other two show a VOC rating and I couldn't find that info on the cheaper can.. anyway those other two slightly more expensive cans say dries in 2 hours.. One has a VOC of 275 I think it was and the other was VOC 350 if memory is correct. Anyway, not all these Danish oils are created equal. The last time I ordered I bought one of the higher priced ones, can't remember is it was the one price arm or the one priced arm and leg.. but whatever one it is it gives a much more rich deeper sheen look to the projects.. Thinking it has a bit more oil in the mix.. was thicker to pour than the cheaper stuff.. Just thought I'd bring it up, I think I made a post about this before but since we have many new to the hobby members here maybe one of them is smarter than me and can tell me more about these differences.. Meanwhile if you've had drying issues with your Danish oil maybe you was like me and too cheap to buy the good stuff when it really is better..

Hi All. I just added 2 new special interest groups: Craftmakers and Food & Drink. Craftmakers is a discussion group to share other crafting, DIY, home improvement, making, etc. Food & Drink is a discussion group to share recipes, kitchen gadgets, meal planning, etc. For those who don't know about Groups, this is a fun little corner of SSV for SSV Silver & Gold patrons. They're usually off-topic discussions about other interests. Right now, we have 4 groups: Laser & CNC Woodturning Craftmakers Food & Drink You can access the groups under the Community Tab, there's a link to Groups. If you want an overview of groups, you can find that here. If you are a SSV Silver or Gold Member, you can browse the groups here. Anyway, I hope you enjoy the new areas!

Hi Anyone know of a Motor Scooter Clock design that I could use please. I have attached one a made a few years ago but not saved the Drawing.

Save on ink I modified Dons pattern and added X to mark center of clock circle for drilling. I also made for two of the more popular sized clocks.. Though I did make the circles a bit large from what the actual clock would be.. I realized it after I already closed out the program but anyway these should work fine. scooter clock.pdf

Yes the green colored can is exterior and says good for decks, and fences etc. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-gal-Natural-Oil-Wood-Finish-2-Pack-67731/204803632 This is the cheapest one but it says 8 hours to dry.. I only skimmed through but I didn't see a VOC on this one. Pretty sure this is what I had been using in the past. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-65731/202067183 Thinking this is the one I purchased last time and has the VOC of 350 I'd have to look to be sure but I doubt I went for the most expensive one.. whatever one it was it was the only one in stock.. so maybe it was the one that is more $$ https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-65732/202067184 This one is the most $$ and a VOC of 275.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-242217/204793060 I'll have to look at my can to see what I bought. The lowest price one is 8 hour dry times.. the other two are both 2 hour dry times... I never looked to see what is available in the smaller cans as I've never bought them before. Edit: I just looked at the pint cans.. all three the same as in gallons for the pint cans dry in 30 minutes... something not right there I don't think. I might have to look more into the ingredients.. I mean they could make the mix different for smaller cans but seems weird.

Zebra wood with Odie's oil finish cut with Pegas MG #7 on my Seyco Saw

Your work is always fun to see and always very well executed. Thanks for posting Dick heppnerguy

What a great idea with the double sided display for the project. I would never had thought to do something like that, but now I have a new idea that I know somewhere down the road I will some day use. Thanks for sharing your art ideas. As always, your work is always top notch Dick heppnerguy

Here is a version that I did as per Kevin. You will have to figure the fitup size and if you need any changes let me know. scooter clock.pdf

I use it all the time, it dries overnight, I usually buy the quart cans, haven't seen the gallon one in my area. I paid a little over $9.00

I think you could probably search for scooter svg or coloring page and get a image close enough to work with.. just make it large enough to give room for the clock.

Thank you meflick that's perfect. I put in a request to join .thx again.

I have taped the completely cut blocks together and given them to relatives, along with a dull blade, so they can see what cuts them as well as seeing all of the pieces fall away. When taping, I fold the end back on itself, to make it easy for them to find and un-tape the block in the correct sequence. One cousin called me and then un-taped the block while on the phone with me, so I heard her surprises and excitement as each piece of tape came off. It's worth doing for friends that you can't be with as they are discovering what you made them. Charley

Another thought came to mind. There is a fuse right where the cord plugs into the saw. It's well hidden so you have to search it out.

Thank you. Yes. Thanks to a great tutorial by @Travis.

Very nice, love the little cottontails, unfortunately they and Jackrabbits are very rare around here now. I miss them.

I made these on request for some customers out of 1/4 inch bb plywood and then painted using acrylic paints and then coated with varnish,the big skeleton was painted white then I went over with glow in the dark paint(but forgot to take picture of it completed)candle holder also glows in the dark hanks for looking happy Halloween

Several of Steve’s patterns. The dyed pairs are cut from hard maple, the others are from cherry. Easy cut with a #1 mgt on the Pegas. Adding the hooks is a royal PITA. My wife and her friends loved them but I need to get out of the jewelry business as the time spent adding the hooks is not my cup of tea.

At my age, with the beard and the amount of hair that grows out my nose,, I have good filtration!

A cheap but useful air filter can be made with a cheap box fan and furnace filter.

That's awesome, each of them did a fantastic job, how much practice did they have with the saw beforehand? That's how I got started in woodworking over sixty years ago, I worked with Grand dad over fifty years ago. He used to build cedar strip canoes, and he needed someone short to work on the underneath the canoes. They were up on sawhorses, and me only being 12 at the time was just the right height Len

Just practicing for when it is.

It's not April Fools yet!!

If you liken it to using a table saw, they make blades specifically to rip (cut with the grain) and blades to crosscut. It has to do with the way the fibers are aligned in the wood. Think of scrollsaw blades as designed to crosscut. When cross cutting the saw cuts (shears) these cell fibers across their structure. When rip sawing the saw is cutting the cell fibers along their length cutting through their structure. When cross cutting the dust is fine and clears from the blade easier, when ripping the saw dust is "stringier" due to the structure of the wood cells and doesn't clear from the blade as well staying in the gullets and slowing down the blades ability to cut.

This don't happen to me.. I think it might be your Poplar and the saw.. send them both to me and I'll cut puzzles with the saw to see if it's your saw or the Poplar.. when the poplar is gone I may need more.. might be the poplar from your location so maybe others should also send me some poplar from your location so I can determine if poplar is different by location.. Can't send me just one board either.. I say 50 - 100 board foot would rule out that one stubborn board that we all run into now and then.. Yes it happens to me as well and I notice it in most all the species

Hey, maybe they were pescatarians.

Db measurements are on a logarithmic basis. A 12 db difference is more than 10 times louder.