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Hello everyone, I found the pattern for this lidded basket in a book. "Classic Fretwork Scroll Saw Patterns" it's my first project with an assembly, I'm not unhappy. Eric

The last push block I made, I gave to my brother. This one I made for myself unless someone buys it. Poplar and alder handle, Rough cut oak base, replaceable cedar cleat. Finished with satin poly.

Hi everyone. I just want to give a big shout out to Paul (Grampa). When he first tried to make this pattern, the photo wasn't that great but he said he would give it another try and sure enough, he did wonders. It was a tricky one to cut. I'm gluing the backer on now and then I'll give it a few coats of poly. Thanks again Paul. You made the impossible happen.

I’m trying to support Alex Fox as much as possible. This is my 3rd new piece from his patterns in the past couple of weeks. I made this one from a 1/4” piece of Lacewood that I had around, back piece is Baltic Birch.

Paul, I’ve done a bit of sawing over the years using an old Delta Milwaukee 14” that has to be close to 70 years old. They didn’t power them back then like they do now so I can’t bull my way through a cut. What I have found out is that using the right blade makes all the difference. I now use Highland Woodworking’s "Wood Slicer" resaw blade. I’ve cut even the hardest of woods with ease and with the right technique I have very little sanding to do. A couple passes through my thickness sander and it’s ready to go. Here’s their info on it if you’re interested https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/wood-slicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx?utm_source=ActiveCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Welcome+to+the+Highland+Woodworking+Community&utm_campaign=HTML+welcome+email+-+0320

Have you bought recently from DnD? I ask because the prices seems to be older prices.. Pegas has raised prices a couple times since I used to order from DnD and their prices seem to be old pricing.. which makes me wonder if they are really actively selling or did someone hack and copy their old site? Just seems a little fishy too me that their saws are $760 when everyone else is $948..

With the change in hours at work, my time on the saw has been limited... very limited! I finally finished this cut from a BirchBark pattern using Maple with a Birch backer. The frame is pre-shaped Walnut and I shimmed the corners for strength. The cut is stained with Minwax Natural and the backer is stained with Minwax Espresso. The frame was pre-finished although I did touch it up with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. For the first time I used my new air sprayer with Polyacrylic and was pleased with the results. I cut it using Pegas #2/0, #0 and #1 spiral blades. I stack cut this but the other piece was Birch and delaminated in places when removing the shelf liner. I hope to paint it in the near future in hopes of hiding the delamination. I've about decided to start placing my wood face to face when doing cuts. I know I could only do this on pieces that were not limited in left or right such as patterns with words. But doing so will prevent delamination from happening on the face of the projects. For instance, the Jim Blume Stagecoach I cut was a double stack and faced different directions. I tell people one stage is going east and the other is going west.

Had a productive day yesterday. Got a few thing cut. Got this Cardinal cut, sanded and finished! Wood is Aspen, cut with #5 mg blade. Finish is Osmo for the red & black and some other poly for the feet & beak.

Simplicity and beautifully imperfect wood.

I have a small Rikon 324TG and use it mainly for resawing. I have bought numerous brands of blades including two different high dollar carbide blades. I was very disappointed on the quality of cut I was getting until I tried a 1/2" wood slicer. I had been 3/4" blades but I don't think I could get enough tension on them.

Does the shaft turn in the body? If not, it's likely a seized bearing. The fan blade coming off is likely because of the sudden stop. The inertia of the blade unscrewed the nut and freed the blade from the shaft. I once built an electronic brake for my table saw motor. The first time that I used the braking function, the motor stopped so suddenly that the blade nut unscrewed, and the blade was wobbling about in the table slot. That was 4 table saws ago. I now just let my present Unisaw coast to a stop. If you can find the seized bearing part number and get it off the shaft, replacement might be just a few bucks. No reason to replace the whole vacuum for just a bad bearing, if it's removeable, but I would replace both while it's apart. Charley

I own a 14" Grizzly G0457 with a 2 HP motor. I have used it to resaw a variety of hardwoods up to and including Jatoba which is extremely hard. I would encourage 1.5 hp or greater for resawing.

I've been watching everywhere online I can find but haven't been seeing Black Friday saw sales. Maybe given the times, there just aren't any to be located. I've been watching specifically for BF sales on the Jet saws. If someone here sees such a sale please PM me. Hope this is an OK post to make. If not, then moderators please delete for me. Don

To use up some scrap BBPLY I cut some Steve Good patterns. I proved I am not a painter.

I took the pattern from the last one and shrunk it down so I could use one of the short candles that came in the set. This one is 4 inches but I have a 2 & 3 also. Not sure yet which one will look better. Gotta wait for dark.

He contacted me directly!

Well Done that was one of the 1st fretworks I done 25 years ago, and I still have it...

we're never being too careful!

I like this

You started young, didn't you? Our twin sons are 43 the 22nd of this month and I'm 82.

Same here, Bob. Carter guides on both. When I first used those guides I was blown away by the improvement in accuracy. I no longer need to account for drift when resawing. Of course a good blade goes a long way in that regard.

I agree; I have two Shopsmith bandsaws, one saw setup for curves and the other for resawing. Both saws have different blade guides installed as well. True for any saw.

That is such a good piece. Probably my favorite that I have seen you do!

Great little project. I love watching the cardinals when they are out!

Now that is one heck of a push block!!

I would agree.

Yep I've been looking at the 17in 2hp as well

Very nicely done Barb

True, but if you order through the Flying Dutchman website you get free shipping on blades.

I order my Flying Dutchman blades from Mike's workshop. I always get them quickly. They send a email confirming the order, a second email confirming payment and a third email telling me the blades have been mailed. All three email are on the same day. I call that pretty darn good service. Plus his prices are quite reasonable,

My wife and I have been vendors at local and regional craft shows for maybe 8 years now. For health and pet care reasons though we have over time reduced from 6 yearly shows to 2. Since retiring, my crafty wife has always made custom costume jewelry, ornamented household goods and accessories and shirts. I have made and sold turned wood items and woodcraft household accessories, as well as custom heavy duty gun belts and gun holsters cut and crafted from half hides using my saddle sewing machine named, "Bertha Jo". Last weekend was the second and last of our yearly shows and I was pleased to see a pretty fair amount of offered hand crafted wood items. I got to talk to two serious scroll sawyers and learned that their offerings are almost always well-received and that good sales numbers are their norm rather than the exception. It pleases me to hear that customers seem to appreciate the quality of their work, and in most cases are willing to pay for the crafter's time and effort. I'd have taken photos of their tables but I always am concerned that the photographed vendor thinks I'm involved in "industrial espionage" and cataloging their product line to attempt infringement. So I just commit their beautiful works to memory. Anyway, despite the economy, established shows like the two we vend at seem to be attended by serious buyers who don't mind parting with their dollars in exchange for creative, well-made items. Just wanted to share here my experienced observations. Don

I use spirals once in a while. I got better with practice slow feed works for me. Down side of some sspirals is the tear out on the undre side can be an issue. This is a good informative video

I deliver meals one day a week for our local meals on wheels program called Manna. They asked me if I'd make keychains to give all the volunteers. Their logo has a loaf of bread and two fish so I worked that into the letters. The M being a slice of bread, and the A's being fish if you can't tell. Now just 74 more to go. At least I know what I'll be sawing for a while. It'll be a good excuse to listen to Christmas songs early while I'm cutting.

It's a good video for sure. Every time I try to use a spiral blade I get totally frustrated with the fuzees that it leaves. Maybe I use the wrong blade.

Thanks Paul. I'll give it a look. Up til now I've shunned spirals but may have to rethink.

Cut on a cool piece of oak.

Lovely cut. Roly

Looks good. I have a couple pieces of Alex's in my sales display and gave his story to people who were looking at the items.

The only thing I can say is WOW WOW WOW

terrific job, it's beautiful

I found this free Dragonfly Pattern on-line and realized it would make a good box type Nightlight Lamp. I used solid 1/4” thick Red Oak for the body and connectors, and 1/2” thick (planed down from ¾” thick material) for the Top and Base. The four body sides are 5 1/2” wide x 11 1/2” tall and were stack cut with Pegas #1 MGT R Blades. All chamfering and mitering was done on the table saw. The Top sits loose on the top of the body to allow access for bulb changing. The natural Red Oak color was darkened with one quick wipe on wipe off coat of Minwax Red Oak stain. All stained surfaces were finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer prior to installation of the Amber Cast 1/8” thick Translucent Acrylic panels. The panels are held in place with small dabs of Gel Superglue. I originally intended to use a 25W LED bulb but found that it was too bright. I replaced it with 10W clear nightlight lamp bulb. However, I plan to add some translucent velum sheets, attached with spray adhesive, to the inside face of the Amber panels and see if the lamp has a nicer soft glow with the 25W bulb. I was very unhappy with the much too transparent plexi with either the 10W or 25W bulb. Applied Translucent Velum using spray adheasive to the inside on each side. Now with the 25W LED Candlelabra bulb the glow is much softer amd you can't see inside. Next time I make a lamp like this I have to remember to apply the velum to the plexi before inserting them . Comments and critiques always welcome.

They look great Ray!

I know I promised no more candle holders but just wanted to show you all the completed set of 3.

Yes, I figured that out eventually. I'm probably going to order some. The Purebond plywood is much cheaper than baltic birch as I have no local source and have to order it. Home Depot ships it to me at no additional cost. Yesterday, I went to every Baltic Birch online source I know, and none of them could ship it to my door for anywhere near the price of maple Purebond plywood. I have a box of the 1/4-inch Purebond. It is of good quality. I have not encountered a knot or void yet, and the core seems to be made from poplar.

Looks good Ray!

I do mostly 3D cutting, and the advantage is that the pattern paper comes off with the scrap, since the item being cut comes out of the center of the block of wood, so removing the pattern from the finished work isn't a problem. For these, I use regular stationary store rubber cement. It isn't a spray. You have to brush it on, but it does come off with mineral spirits. The plus is that it is repositionable for a short time after the pattern is applied to the work. Not long though, maybe 20 seconds. I have used it for 2D work and it does come off by wetting the pattern with mineral spirits applied to the surface of the pattern and then waiting for it to soak through. Then a light sanding of the work piece removes any residual cement and it's ready for staining/finishing. Charley

I bought my laser to in part make these myself, had the laser for 3-4 years now and never did design and make my own

This is a piece I designed in memory of our female corgi "Angel" who is dearly missed.

We do so many custom pet projects these days. I'll just post a few of our latest... And dozens more!