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My Brother Barry moved here from Denver at the beginning of September. He is also a woodworker. This is our first joint project. I did the scrolling and he did the frames and finishing. I wish I could make frames 1/4 the quality that he does. I couldn't decide which photo I liked best so here are both of them.

Unfortunately, or really fortunately in the category "resources" in the blue line at the top of the forums, there is a drop down titled "how to Articles" that has most the answers and tips. The unfortunate part is new members do not know to look there. Lots of info there for beginners. I wish there was a method to tell the new members.

I use a skip tooth blade. It clears the sawdust better.

I have been sanding the wood to 220 before applying the pattern. Makes final finishing easier. Be patient. It is not a race. Don't be overly critical - only you see the "flaws". No one else does.

So many things to learn and then one has to remember them

Just a few more. The big R has a story behind it. 7 years ago before life got really crazy for a while I made all the family one of these ornaments each. That was the year that my son's first child was born so he got an ornament. Fast forward 7 years when his Mom was decorating the tree this year he wanted to know why his little brother didn't have an ornament. His dad explained that when Pap made them Rylan wasn't around. That was not acceptable so he called me wanting to know if I could fix Rylan an ornament. Any how Steve Goods pattern Poplar wood Olsen 2/0 crown tooth blades. The Snoopy is for my Grandson and Scooby Do Is for my Wife. Patterns are coloring pages from the internet that had bridges added with a White Out pen. Same setup Poplar and 2/0 Olsen. The dinosaurs are thanks to @don in brooklin on I may have misappropriated the patterns that were posted for someone else. Same wood and blade setup. The snowflake stars etc are from the ornament for Charity book Same setup. The humming bird is Sheila Landry patter. Same wood and blades. In case you haven't figured it out yet I really like cutting Poplar wood. Last but not least the final (I think) Initial ornaments. Cedar wood #5 Pegasus skip tooth blades. Everything is straight off the saw with no finish yet Several will be shipped to Arizona raw so that my Grandson and His mother can finish as they see fit. Commits or criticism welcome.

A Bruce Worthington pattern, 189 pieces which took me a while to complete

A client commissioned me to make this box for her son for Christmas. The family is from Scotland where they still have family. The son started college at OU. An uncle that lives in Scotland made the young man the OU from a tree that was in their yard. My client wanted me it incorporate it into the box. From there her son transferred to the Louisiana Warhawks where he was a was their football kicker. He has since graduated and my client was wanting it to put the memorabilia she had collected during his college career. Box measures 15 1/2 x 12 1/2 x 8. Wood used maple, Peruvian walnut, padauk, sapele, and tigerwood.

For those in the early stages of scroll sawing there is so much to learn that learning things the hard way can be discouraging. Those of us who have been scrolling for a while have learned some things that may prevent frustration and do-overs for those who are new to scrolling. I'll start with a couple: 1. When working with lumber (as opposed to Baltic birch plywood) inspect the face of your lumber carefully before applying patterns. Imperfections are far easier to correct before you complete your scrolling. Sanding a finished piece is risky. 2. Do not let the blade lift the scrap out of your work piece. Nine times out of ten it will be fine but the blade may grab and twist the scrap causing a delicate detail to break. By the way, Murphy's law dictates that the piece that broke off will ALWAYS find the vacuum with an audible clicking sound as it goes... 3. Those tiny drills we use to drill pilot holes DO NOT like to be rushed. If you are really unlucky the tip will break off inside the work piece. Start the hole and back the drill out to clear the flutes before drilling all the way through.

Due to the drastic increase in postage (it now costs over $5 to ship a 5 ounce package), I am forced to charge for postage. Beginning immediately, all orders under $50 will have postage and handling of $4.00. Free shipping on orders over $50. The Loyal Customer Program will still be in effect.

Finally finished. Jim Blume pattern on 3/8 willow live edge, ripped in half and bookmarked. Double stack with 1/8 BB ply 1445 cuts with mainly #1 Niqua spiral blade. Measures 18 X 27 inches. Thanks for the "insane" pattern Jim.

You mean, something like this? : "Welcome to the Village, newcomer, be sure to check out the resources tab, lots of good info there: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/articles/

Dave, another of you consistent inpeccable craftsmanship projects. Beautiful!

I have been doing patterns from Sheila Landry/Keith Fenton for a while and have always really liked them. I recently had a customer want a project based on one of their designs with some of the words changed. Now I can muddle through Inkscape well enough to make the change but not to a point where I am happy with it. I reached out to Keith and he quoted a price (less than I expected) and was able to send me the revised pattern the same day. Great customer service, great patterns. Thank you, Keith!

Indeed it does, but I have plenty without breaking my projects.

Hi Juan: I just looked up the Delta manuals. The Model 40-691 is listed as China Manufacture. The 40-695 is listed as Taiwan Mfg. Taiwan manufacturing is generally higher quality. I can't find that info for Jet although one dealer lists it as Taiwan.

I don’t know if it makes any difference in the Dewalt. The Excalibur 21 Manufactured in Taiwan was said to be better than the one made in China. The Dewalt I just purchased from Amazon was made in Taiwan.

That is a super awesome job.

I’m so sorry to have disappointed you @Scrappile Paul. I will try to do better. Now, let me see what if anything I can find. perhaps this is it by Mike Miller, looks like uploaded in 2014 to the pattern library here, in the utilitarian pattern section. There are quite a few clock patterns there shared by Mike at the time.

Ahhh, but the kindling burns so brightly. Sigh.......

Yup. 220 sandpaper with no noticeable indents makes for far easier finishing! "First good - then fast." is especially true for scrolling.

Drill all the holes before cutting. I turned several toys into kindling before I learned this.

Copied this from the Gwinnett Woodworkers Association for my educational display at our county fair. Thought it summed it up pretty well …

when my kids were very young, I would cut simple animal shapes and ornament shapes out of 2x 4's on my band saw and then re saw the shapes into three or 4 separate pieces. at that point I drilled holes for ornament hooks and turned the cut outs over to the kids to paint with their water colors. It was something we did every year. An ornament for each aunt, uncle, grandparent, teacher, etc and some for "our" rec room tree. My ex wouldn't allow anything on the family Christmas tree except her fancy European hand blown glass ornaments, so I bought a cheap artificial tree that we put up in the rec room for their ornaments. I still make a few dozen ornaments every year, give most away and put the rest on the family tree. Not even close to the fancy stuff I see here, but designed and made by me.

Had this pattern for a while now, not sure why I hadn't cut it before. Can't recall who the pattern is by (name is not on the page) but I believe I got it out of the Pattern Library here. Had to fiddle around with the clock insert diameter to get the right size, but finally managed to get the hole to the size that would fit the clock insert I ordered from Amazon. Not a lot of interior cuts on this one, most of the time is spent on the exterior.

I just noticed Amazon has the Dewalt saw on sale for $399.00. The description stated that the saw was made in Taiwan. Is this a marketing error or is really made in Taiwan instead of China.? Tractor Supply has a Jet 22 in. with the stand for $999.00. However, the country of origin is listed as "imported". This could mean the new marketing trend of camouflage for items made in China? Wow, we have to be so "Buyer be Ware" anymore.

Maybe a "sticky header" on the Introduction page by Travis would help.

Keith Fenton has been a great help to me and patterns are a favorite

Another beautiful masterpiece, the inlay work is excellent, can’t wait to see what comes next year, RJ

@Scrappile Paul, yes, I took it “positive” . Course, Kirk made it fairly easy when he gave the info. that he was pretty sure it was from here in the Patterns section of the village. I do try to provide links to things when people ask if for help or note they aren’t sure where it came from. I think it’s helpful when we can provide links to articles, patterns, etc. (helpful now and hopefully down the road) and it usually doesn’t take me to long to track something down but I have been “stumped” before. So, if you need help finding something, just tag me in case I don’t see it and I will do my best.

I am a little late on this one. It was made 36+ years ago now for my oldest grandson's 1st birthday. Neighbor had given me the pattern. Made from purchased pine. Cut on one of the old tin-Dremels, that I had bought used! Strained the saw- cutting the rockers as a pair -- I remember a lot of sanding and filing away to get it even close to useable. The picture is after a factory rebuild in the 90's sometime. It had sat outside through a couple of CA rainy winters because of space for storage issues at the time. I now build much better rocking toys. Second picture is alpaca that i made about 2 years ago. I do have much better tools now and the difference shows on close examination. I might even be a little more skilled at cutting also. IMG_2246.CR2 IMG_2245.CR2 IMG_2245.CR2 IMG_2246.CR2

Absolutely Beautiful!

Thanks for understanding.

Thanks everyone. I've been trying an Olson #7 reverse tooth and usually just old bits of 2X4 cut down to 1 1/14. I don't use clamps just hold the piece. Usually it's long enough that I don't have issues hanging onto it. Just curious what everyone else was doing for things like this! Thanks again for all the info.

Beautiful Box Dave. someone will be very happy to receive it.

That's still very fair, Denny. And with the excellent service from Artcraftersonline.com, the difference in cost of shipping is well worth it.

Kywoodmaster. Nice cuts and wood selection, and some good advice for those getting into compound cuts.

Made this for my loving wife. A Steve Good pattern

Hey Kevin, I use the precut ornaments from Dollar store also. I find the wood cuts nicely and the cost is good. I also buy the small plaques they have for backers. They work really well. I have talked with some of the scrollers on other sites they also use the Dollar store wood. Keep on scrolling my friend.

I made all of our family Initial Ornaments for Christmas this year. All have been delivered except 4. I have been informed that this needs to become a yearly tradition. I made a total of 30 of these. Cedar wood Minwax natural stain and 4 coats of rattle can lacquer.

I have always had great service from them..Not only buying their products but also response to any question I may ask them.

Dont know itf it will reactivate the watercolors. if it does you can try a fixative. Mainly people use it over pastels so they dont smear. Makes a sort if transparent top coat that can be used for more paint or pastels or whatever. In a pinch good old aqua net hair spray works just fine. Then shellac over top of that coat.

Your persistance and choice of wood is rewarding with a fine cut

Shellac sticks to "EVERYTHING"

I prefer using wire. I use these hangers (see photo) that lay flat against the project. I use one on the left side and one on the right, then attach the wire to them. The main reason is that some of my projects are not center-balanced and I have had some issues with sawtooth hangers not holding the work level enough for me. With the wire, it is very easy to hang the work level. Also, I don't like things to mark up the wall, so I add either felt or rubber pads to the work. I usually get the work hung so all four pads are touching the wall and this is how I keep the work flat to the wall. The small gap is not very noticeable. There, I spent my 2¢ for the day.

I think I would resaw the wood and then stack cut them.

There are a ton of variables, so I will probably miss some of them. 1. With narrow frames, or plaques with lots of space used, there is a significant limit to where you can place the saw tooth. This leads to Denny's s statement about the wall hook. With wider frames or more space on a plaque you can still hide the wall hook. 2. Centering wide pieces. With a long horizontal frame it's becomes difficult to keep the item from becoming crooked using a saw tooth hanger, especially if the weight of the piece is unbalenced, either by the scroll work or by the variations in the weight of the framing material. 3. Centering vertical pieces is easier, because of the weight distribution. 4. Speed. Generally speaking, a pressed in saw tooth hanger is faster then a wire hanger. 5. Cost. Generally speaking, a pressed in saw tooth hanger is less expensive than using wire. This is very dependent on how it's done. I worked in the art publishing industry for 26+ years, and that's what my experiences are. The standard at the shop where I worked were; any frame 16 x 20 or less = saw tooth hanger, we had a commercial machine to do the pressing and I could install at the rate of 4 frames per minute. Any frame larger than 16 x 20 got a wire hanger. We started with commercial buckles ( a strap formed around a wire triangle ) screwed to the frame, then the wire wrapped around the triangle. We ended up stapling the sire to the frame using medium crown staples. I have rigged up a jig for pressing saw tooth hangers using a woodworkers bench vise and magnets. When I put it together again I'll take and post pictures.

Hello, I offer this last year to my coworker Elodie who is found of ... unicorn.

I made 18 of the small Nativities and about the same number of larger ones. On the larger, about half were natural and the others were painted flat white. The small ones have a hook for hanging and given to relatives as my annual handmade ornament. Some of the larger ones were used as table decor at a church luncheon and then became door prizes along with some angels. All patterns by Steve Good. 1/8" and 1/4" plywood.

Since we go to Florida in a few days, we had our Christmas gifts exchange last Saturday. I made this for my father-in-law.