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Another to the Military set.

Designed this simple but meaningful piece this morning......Jesus bearing the weight of the cross on the way to the crucifixion's...cut from standard pine.....stained early American & red mahogany....2 coats of gloss RO lacquer......comments always welcomed God Bless

Enjoying the nice weather in Florida, it is nice to be able to sit outside and worked on the saw. I had to cut a few birdhouses because Denny had too much fun

It’s a Steve Good pattern that I added an inlay, red oak with bb inlay, cut with #3 pegas mg, thx RJ

I admit to being a bit of a procrastinator at times. Sometimes it’s in finishing a project. Sometimes it’s in taking photographs of the projects. Here are somethings I started on last year, and finally got painted and finished and photographed. I cut all of them out on my scroll saw. I then hand carved the pieces. Then painted them. Most of them are Christmas ornaments that may or may not have been completed in time to be given to my family as intended. Perhaps that just means I have them done for this year. The patterns for most if not all of these came from issues of the Woodcarving Illustrated magazine from Fox Chapel. If one is one someone is interested in, let me know and I can give more specifics on the designer and issue. One snowman is a Steve Good pattern he provided as segmentation pattern that a few on here have cut and shown previously. The books are based on a carving lesson video from Doug Linker on a YouTube. He shows carving books. I carved 3, stacked them to create an ornament for a book lover. The Iris flower is a Judy Gale Roberts Intarsia design. However, I wanted to attempt to carve it. This was only my fifth attempt at hand carving a project AND it was the first time I attempted to carve something that I was not following along with carving directions from an instructor, video, and their pattern. I had many issues with this piece. The biggest one was when I cut my pointer finger very badly and deeply while carving it. Fortunately, I didn’t do significant damage (like cut off my finger tip) but the tip of that finger still has some numbness and hypersensitivity but I am hopeful that it may still heal completely and that will go away. Nerve damage can take a long time to heal I know. It’s been about 6 months ago now I think. Time will tell. let’s just say it’s a good reminder to wear gloves and keep my fingers out of the way of the knifes and gouges. If my family ever needs a DNA sample, there is plenty from the blood that is on the pattern! The other is the framing on the iris, the wood is 100+ year old barn wood from a milking barn that was torn down on my husband’s family’s property. His parents bought the old farm land to build his family’s home more than 55 years ago. They tore down the main barn and some out buildings I believe. This particular out barn was left and was only torn down in the past 5-10 years or so and we kept a lot of that wood. These were actually scraps he had left when he built my son a watch box from it for Christmas. Sorry for the long winded explanation! But I like to explain things! Judy’s pattern for the Iris includes a frame it overlaps in several places and on three of the sides of the frame. I only overlapped in two places and on the same side. Judy’s pattern is a sett of 3 different flowers. Only time will tell if I attempt any of the others. You can find Judy’s pattern here on her website : https://intarsia.com/products/i-266-flower-fest-1?_pos=2&_sid=fac716d0f&_ss=r

I most often cut the pattern from the magazine or pattern book then scan the pattern. I find if I don't cut the pattern from the book, the copied pattern is skewed, especially the portion that is close to the binding of the book. I hate destroying the publication in that manner, but I have thought of removing each pattern and putting them in a three-ring binder. (a lot of work). The other reason is that many magazines have articles that someone else might enjoy. I keep most of my subscriptions because when I am no longer around (hoping for many more years) someone out there might want these. I will also mark each publication with notes that I refer to many times, especially when doing something new. I have thought of purchasing DVD of magazines but too cheap to do that. Maybe with a little more research I can find a particular pattern on-line and just purchase that one. Jerry

With Scroll Saw Workshop magazine I have the DVD's and so I can open the page in Inkscape and do what I want. I have issues 1 -72 on DVD even though I have a lot of those as books. I refuse to subscribe to magazine until they make the insert in the middle available online. I do buy the occasional one at Walmart but struggle to copy the patterns. For other books etc. I copy from the book and I have had the same issues. I sometimes scan twice and the piece together. I also have found that my library gives me access to hoopla which has a few scroll books as eBooks. They don't let you download or print but you can do screen capture or the web capture and then I can import to Inkscape and modify and print.

Well… I finally pulled the trigger. I ordered a brand spanking new 18”Hegner with all the bells and whistles. ETA is 2/14.

I've been scanning the patterns to my computer. Then I crop as much of the space on the page away that is not part of the actual pattern.. Makes it much easier to resize the pattern. After I have cropped as much of the waste away as I can I resize the pattern so I know what size I have. then I convert the pattern to PDF file. That way I can easily increase or decrease the size again and print as a poster with the Adobe print fuction. I have been doing the military emblems thing from a book. I have pretty much decided to cut the binding on the book and scan the pages. I am ruining the book anyway trying to san individual pages. I am wondering f I can shave the binding off on the table saw. Haven't had the nerve to try it yet.

I print from the book. If I notice an issue with the line I will draw it on. From the latest magazine, I copied from the large insert, missed part of the pattern, so I traced it and taped it on.

I have granite plates and lots of sandpaper, so lapping the sides of the Pivot is a piece of cake. Compared to flattening the back of a chisel, this will be easy. As far as I can tell, the saw works fine. However, I have never had my hands on a new finely tuned version, so I could be wrong. The only new saw I have owned was a cast iron AMT. Blade changes were a pain, but they cut very smooth. I cut fretwork on it where the edges were so smooth they were glossy.

This was a challenge for me. I have never made an intarsia pattern on my own before. My neighbor came to me with a photo of the military airplane he spent his 25 Canadian Air force carrier in. This aircraft was used to search the ocean waters for enemy subs. I found it very challenging for me because he kept changing what I was doing and he kept wanting it to be more of a model than an intarsia item. I was really wanting to making it just the way he wanted it but every change, along the way, put more doubt in my success to make it happen and added a lot of extra time to the process. This project is 28 inches long and approximately 14 inches high. I used a woodburner to make the stripe on the body of the plane black. Dick heppnerguy

I made this shelf about 20 years ago for my wife’s parents who were farmers. They are now deceased, Shelf has been broken. I can’t find the pattern. I saw this while doing a google search for farmer shelves. Please, if anyone knows where I can still get this pattern, please let me know.

I have made a few personal portrait patterns and enjoyed the outcome of most of them. I struggled to go through the step by step procedures, that took my so long to achieve my goal, so I do not take the effort to make one very often. This year I plan on making enough of them to be able to go through the procedures in my head without the long process. So I once again took the long time effort to once again begin my effort to learn this process in my head. I fail to take the time to learn new things that take time to learn, so I don't bother to put out the efforts. Here is my newest efforts and I am looking for comments that are on the negative lines. I want people to point out where my weakest parts of this and my future efforts could use some advise so I can see it through someone else's eyes and help me to be more aware of where I need to pay more attention. I understand that we are not here to critique other people's work, but to support them in their efforts to learn. I understand that I am a mediocre scroller, at best, but I have been scrolling for a number of years and still make a lot of mistakes. Please help me, if you choose to and let me hear your thoughts so I might be able to improve as I go along, trying to learn. Dick heppnerguy

I wonder how hard it would be to drill holes to allow the book to be put into a 3 ring binder, after the spine of the book was removed? I know it could be done, a few pages at a time, with a 3 ring hole punch, but it seems like it could be easy enough to do on a drill press, even sandwiched between 2 pieces of plywood.

No. we ain't stupid. We get along pretty well for old folks.

I've contacted Fox Chapel numerous times about making the patterns available digitally. They keep telling me they are not able to do it. Hogwash! The entire magazine is done digitally. Who do they think they are kidding? We may be old but we aren't stupid! I've been a loyal subscriber for many years but I think I'm done.

I usually copy from the book, magazines I cut it out. I've ran into the same problem when I print from the book. Nice cutting too!

I getting ready to buy one of those plastic clips that @kmmcraftsposted about in another thread. I called Bushton to see if it would work, and they said it would. It has two holes, and my old metal one has one hole. They wanted the model and serial number, which I had on hand. I found my AWOL lower clamp, and this will keep me from crawling around on the floor with a flashlight in the future. In the same thread, a nylon washer was mentioned. I don't have one, and the parts breakdown doesn't show a washer under the lever. Is the washer an upgrade for my saw? Should I get one? My next question needs pictures. It was also mentioned that the "Connector Rod Pivot" (wedge) needed to be sharp for the saw to work correctly. Since I don't have anything to compare it with, can you look at the photos and tell me if this one is OK? Here are some photos of my top wedge: And the Serial Number Plate

I cleaned it for the photos.

Hi Dick. Just some thoughts from my perspective, not necessarily right or wrong. I just worked from your pattern of course and not the original. I've never had much luck adding highlights to eyes from above. I usually come from the side. I took a little off of the mouth and nose and broke up the left side of his face a bit. I think, in this case, letting the mind fill in some of the details of the mouth and nose works. I try to make lines like the ones in the forehead, or wherever, vary in width since consistency looks more artificial as it rarely occurs in nature. There's probably not a portrait on my wall that I wouldn't do something different on if I did it again but I guess that's part of the fun of it. You never stop learning. Just some ideas that may or may not be any good to take or leave.

If that wedge gets too rounded you'll start snapping blades.. as it'll allow the tension to not be consistent as those rock back and forth.. Also if you're saw has the front tension lever there is an adjustment on the bottom of where the lever goes into the arm.. underneath there is a very small set screw. When you flip the lever over without a blade in the saw that lever should have some resistance to it about 1/8" - 1/4" before it goes to the "locking position ".. The very old saws didn't have that set screw and in those cases you have to replace the cam lever.. Or. you can just wrap a rubber band around the lever when it gets so bad it starts popping the blade tension lever up when turning the saw on. Edit to say: It doesn't look like that wedge has been oiled.. I believe that is supposed to take a drop of oil every 20 -25 hours of use.. depending on age the arm bearings are also supposed to be oiled and there is a spot up by the front tension cam with a hole in it.. drop of oil in that hole as well..

Zooming in on the photo I'd say the wedge is worn.. Yes you need the washer for sure.. As for the wedge.. As Ray said you can probably just dress it.. I dressed mine from time to time by just using a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface and sand each side of the wedge.. It's supposed to be quite pointed almost to the point of being sharp. Each time you dress it you're making it shorter though.. so eventually it'll mess with your upper arm adjustment.. so you'll think your blades are getting longer because the arm comes down too far.. may have to crank the lock nut on the bottom of the rod under the lower arm to adjust that.. Properly tuned the upper arm should come all the way down and meet the top of the blade in just the right position to clamp it.. Edit to add: Yours don't look too bad but proper dressing it is actually sending the upper arm in for Bushton to machine the V.. I think now days they machine it out for the updated " replacement " round insert V like the new saws have.

I will probably order the washer from Bushton since I am ordering the clip and I've already paid the shipping cost.

Hi everyone. Just finished doing these today. Just waiting for some acrylic spray to come in to finish up the Marine one. I want to give Paul (scrappile) a big thank you for all his help and tips on how to do these. I would of never been able to tackle these without his help. There no where as good as his but they will do for now. Going to my son in-law and grandson.

Original ideas and patterns are always my favorite ones to see. I wish I had a better mind for pattern making. Good for you. Dick heppnerguy

I made the pattern in inkscape using the logo and making it similar to the other military plaques with the outside and lettering.

I'm a book lover - I just can't stand the idea of cutting up my books so I haven't done it yet but have been tempted a time or two. I try my best to get a copy of the pattern from the book. Some books that is harder to do than others. Some books do a better job putting the pattern where the binding isn't as much of a problem in trying to get the copy. I don't recall one that I haven't been able to eventually get a clean copy from. I do have some older books that have that "comb" style binding that lets it lay flat or easy to remove from the binding and put back. One reason I asked for a light table one year for a gift was so that I could "trace" patterns or use it to align patterns where I had to join pieces. It's been a life saver a few times. I have learned to look well at my copies to make sure I got all the lines. If I missed a bit, its usually just a tad bit and like Barb, I will draw it in usually with the aid of my light table. Light table is much easier to do then holding it up to the glass window to trace! Usually once I get a copy of the pattern copied, I do scan it into my computer to keep especially if I want to make the pattern a different size. Much easier to scale on my computer and print it. Plus, I can make it have red lines which I much prefer to use for cutting then black. I will take the magazine apart to get the pattern inserts but I hate doing that too. Like Kevin noted, sometimes they are still not easily copied without making lots of different folds and angles. Sometimes the patterns have "pieces" that need to be aligned (which is where my light table is a tremendous help.) I usually close the magazine staples back up without putting the pattern insert back in place but leave it inside the magazine. The problem with that is you still risk it being lost. Like Don, I have purchased the SSWC magazines back issues on CDs so if it is from an old magazine, I can go there and try to get a print of the pattern. I still subscribe to the magazine, I would hate to lose it and usually it has a project or two that I am interested in. I too however wish that they could find a way to provide the patterns to download electronically. I have had others where you could do so - I understand why they don't want to - for couple of reasons - but I don't think any of them really keep people from getting a "shared" copy if they really want too. Since I started carving in the past few months - I have also been looking at FC's carving magazine, "Woodcarving Illustrated" I think it is. Interesting enough with it - you CAN BUY DIGITAL subscription BUT it costs the same as the printed copy subscription. You cannot get a "dual" subscription to both the digital and printed copy at a slightly reduced price if you get both so if you want both, you have to pay same price for both. PLUS, you still don't get the actual patterns in "digital" format - if you want an article and/or pattern printed out from the online version, you can only do so by doing a "screen capture" one page at a time! I sent them an email inquiring about all of that and their response was the company who does it says it can't be done. I told them like Ray - hogwash. I'm pretty technically savvy and have had other online magazines before that could - that their source needs to catch up with technology. So for all of those reasons - I have yet to subscribe to the carving magazine. I really want to subscribe - but I would like both the printed copy to keep but access to the digital version. Since they don't do that, I have not pulled the trigger on a subscription in either format. I left it to the subscription fairies over Christmas, put in on my Christmas list, but none of my fairies ordered it for me! So so far, I've not subscribed yet. So since they can do the Carving magazine in Digital format - we know they COULD do the scrolling one that way too but choose not to. I suspect that may be due to the number of subscribers and that Carving has more then scrolling and/or they do it with the Carving magazine first, to see how it worked out and didn't get enough so they figure not worth it for the scrolling - but all really just a guess!

This photo was taken from the internet and it includes as much of the top of the head that showed in the actual photo. I too thought the exact thing you mentioned about the top of the head when I saw it but it was all I had to work from. Thank you so much for your input as that is exactly the type of thing I am looking for so as to pick up pointers that will help me as I go about my endeavor to learn to make scroll saw wood portrait patterns from photos. I truly appreciate you taking your time to help me. Dick heppnerguy

I hadn't thought about cutting the binder part off with a table saw.. but I did think about it with the bandsaw or heck.. even the scroll saw.. I see there are people cutting designs from old books with the scroll saw so I should be able to cut the binder part of the book off.. Hate to ruin ( so to speak ) the book but I also hate my projects not turning out well because of poor scans too.. I've thought about re-subscribing to the magazine.. I do miss them and on one hand I'd hate to see them go out of business.. on the other hand... we've been telling them to go digital or at least layout the patterns so they're easier to scan for years.. I complained about this back in 2007 - 8.. I think they've had plenty of time to consider and if they go out because of the lack of subscribers it's on them for not keeping up with the times...

@Scrappile Paul, glad to be of assistance. But sometimes I don’t find things. Always feel free to tag me or messsagge. Me if you need help locating something, I’ll do my best. I always like to. See links if we can provide so people can easily find and usually enough hints or info are provided that. Aid in a quick search. This one, I. Was pretty. Sure. I recognized as a Steve Good design even before Pete came back and provided that info. Just looked like Steve’s style.

Thank you Melanie, you never disappoint, I actually went and looked but didn't find it, guess I didn't have the correct words to search.. I actually thought just wait Melanie will save the day! THANK YOU.

What a great design and well executed Dan. Thanks for showing.

nice job

I asked for help for a pattern to make a portrait for a friend’s wife of her musician husband. Grandpa got me started and I took it from there. My friend often plays Bluegrass in his shed, so I expanded the picture a little bit.I also added a few details to his beard. I’ve done better guitars, but this is ok, I guess. Three pics included: one of the picture Grandpa used, one of his pattern that he did, one of the almost finished piece. Thanks for your help, Paul!

They look cast to me.

I kind of thought so by the red colored uprights at the back that I think are cast?

My saw does not have a front tension lever lever. It is a two speed saw that required you to move the belt to change speeds. I never have changed the speed.

Dick, I’m not much of a pattern maker but my concern when first looking at your pattern was how well the face was supported. It didn’t look like there were many bridges to hold it in place. Charlie's edit looks like it answered that.

Yours looks fine. When they go bad, the wedge will have a rounded nose and the notch will be wallowed out to match. You can take a fine single cut file and dress the wedge and the notch but don't remove too much metal. Just clean them up. You definitely need a nylon washer to go between the tension adjustment lever and that wedge. You can probably find one at H/D for a few cents. The thicker the better. I mean by that in the 1/16" inch range. There are some that are thinner and won't last long. It acts as a "lube" point so that you're not rubbing metal against metal. If you can find a teflon washer, that would be even better.

Well, Dick, I wish I could give you some negative critique but from what I see, you're doing a darn good job. I've tried making patterns, primarily of pets/animals, with little success. I do have one I've completed and cut but still needs to be finished. I would not have been able to do this pattern without the help of the online pattern program. It's obvious the one you have in this post is William Shatner. If I were to critique anything, and this is really reaching out there, would be to have moved the image down slightly to include the tip of the head. Maybe some of the real "pattern makers" on the forum can provide you with more, or better, insite.

You will love it! Congrats.

Congrats on the new saw.. I always wanted to try a Pegas.. but it's probably not a lot different to use than my Excalibur..

Congrats on the new saw. Isn’t it fun drooling over all the choices?

Great we can see 21 inch bowls, and cowboy Hats?

You are entering a whole new world of scrolling and of wishing I had done this sooner... Congratulations!

Hope you like it as well as I like mine.

Hi Tim I bought a pristine, used Pegas 21 this past year. I made a stand for it and both have been great. You will not be disappointed.

Nice variety and great work. It should be well accepted at your sale. I will be waiting to see how the sale actually goes for you. Keep us informed Dick heppnerguy

Five different SG patterns to make these