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Made this from 1/4" ply experimented with tape reference the bottom tape straight across then stained it and this is how it turned out. Quite happy with it to go to market next week with some mini eggs in. Roly

Something I finally finished. As I was cutting, mistakes were made. Hubby saw it and asked about it. When I looked, I couldn't really see the mistakes. Put a coat of shellac on it and Voila! it is done. Never discount what you have done - I was ready to throw this out!

First off thank you FrankEV, as soon as I saw this pattern I just knew I had to try it. I do apologize for butchering it but I really enjoyed cutting it! Another one for the sand and finish pile. I'm going to see if I can find a piece of live edge or at least a decent piece of solid wood and try it again, because I'd love to hang this somewhere.

Needed a quick project to test out the hawk being as it was acting up. Found this Steve Good candle holder so decided to go with it. Going to have to have a weekend sanding and finishing soon as stuff is building up

Here are some pieces I have done. Some using my Dad's old saw and some are the new things made this past few weeks on the new saw. None are completely finished yet, I'll get to that eventually. I'm just having fun cutting at the moment!

This is my latest cut, this beautiful pattern by Russ Beard, double stack 1/4” Imported Prime Ply, approximately 25 hours I don’t rush things just one hole at a time. Cut on my highly modified Wen using mainly #0 and #1 Straight Flying Dutchman My finishing process is as follows, fist sand with 220 grit damp wipe clean blow dry dry with compressor and allowed to dry, second San 400 grit same process. The I use a flat “biscuit” baking pan pour about 2ml of Danish Oil and gently from tha side lay it in the pan, I leave it fit about a minute and the lift the wood to see if it’s soaking in we’ll lay the wood down again and leave for a few minutes carefully watching the the sides, depending on the dryness of the wood you will see the absorption amount. When I’m satisfied that the wood is nicely sealed I lift the cut out and hang it through a big cut about 2” from the tray to drip dry for about a minute. I then place the cut on four empty canned food tins and using a soft cloth wipe off all excess oil, I leave it like this for 24 hours so it dries and seals completely. If I’m going to apply any colour it’s done now then it’s sprayed with varnish, two to three coats depending on what finish you require. Then it’s the framing process, I make all my own frames.

An Alex Fox Pattern C-03. I enlarged the pattern by 30% to fit 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 10" square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. Entry holes drilled with Grobet #68 HSS Twist Drill Bits. Finish is two coats spray Lacquer Clear Gloss with sanding on the Mac Mop between coats. Comments welcome.

I was doing my morning walk and joined a neighbor on the last part of my walk home. He had a cute little dog with him and I remembered that I had a pattern of his dog's bread. So I told him I would make a cutting of it for him. He liked the idea. For the live of me, I can not recall the name of the bread but it is a very common one these days. Anyway, it was an easy cut and a nicely done pattern, so here is the one I cut. Dick heppnerguy

Just thanking The Razz for his portrait that I downloaded for my wife's birthday present of the Rolling Stones. I hope that I did it justice. I used 1/2 " black cherry as my wood with routered frame edges as I usually do on a lot of my fretwork projects. I used FDUR #3 and # 1 blades and a #3 new spiral blade for smoothing out the letters.

Someone on here made some of the swivel ends for their Hawk saw and they said they worked good. I'm not really sure it's needed as I've not really ever had a issue with them on any of my Hawks.

If you say nothing no one will know. You did an excellent job, well done. Marg

Shhhhh! Don't tell anybody! Just say you cut it exactly how you wanted it cut. I think you did a great job. Love the grain pattern in the wood.

Thanks Kevin. Might have found the problem, a build up of gunk in the top of the bladeholder. It was allowing the blade to slip past the stop, therefore the tension was off every time it slid passed needing more force on the screw to hold the blade, more tension more force on the screw.... It's been ok since, a little bending on #2.0 blade but not bad. My father in law has a small machine shop ( before he retired he was a toolmaker) and I'll get him to turn the ends flat, maybe see if he can replicate the spinning ends.

Wow, I think it looks great!!! (Now I’m gonna have to try it)

I've been playing with cutting out animal shapes on my Dad's old craftsman pen end scroll saw. I was having a blast but wanted to try the spiral blades and other pinless blades so hubby bought me a Delta 20" about a month ago and oh my, I am in love with this saw. Still have lots to learn, especially with those spiral blades, but the journey should be an enjoyable one. There are so many things I want to make! Looking for inspiration and advice from the pros.

I converted an Image of a metal wall hanging I found on-line into a scrollable 11 x 17 pattern. The conversion did not take much work as the hanging artwork was already very much like a scroll saw product. The only thing I had to do was let Inkscape invert the image to produce the cutout areas in a red outline with gray fill. The metal wall hanging was shown as Black with the contrasting image in White. I liked the way it looked but wondered how it would look in contrasting wood colors as how we, Scrollers, often present our work. I decided to stack cut two 5/32” thick solid core ply panels, one Walnut and the other Birch. The Walnut panel was then left natural (although I did darken it slightly with a quick wipe on/wipe off coat of Walnut stain) and it was affixed to 1/4” thick BB Ply backer that was left Natural. The Birch panel was primed and painted with rattle can Gloss Spray Black and affixed to 1/4” thick BB Ply backer that was primed and painted with rattle can Gloss Spray White. Both assembled panels were further protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. If these cutting were solid wood, no framing would have been necessary, not unlike the original metal wall hanging which is unframed. However, to hide the plywood edges, I made narrow (1/2” wide) drop-in type frames that match the cut panels. Walnut for the Walnut panel and Pine, primed and painted Gloss Black, for the Black panel. Be warned, you should not let the apparent simplicity of this image fool you. I chose to use a Pegas #1 MGT R blade to cut the pattern to insure the cut edges were sharp. I found the cutting, with all the sharp pointy corners resulted in a LOT of time-consuming Panel spinning. I also found it took much patience and fine touch control to follow the simple, but long, curve pattern lines accurately. The image is a mirror image side to side, so cutting misstates would not be able to be hidden. I think I did OK, but it did require many rest breaks to keep my eyes from getting too crossed. If you have taken the time to read through this far, I have a BIG REQUEST. Even if you have no comments, please reply with a simple vote for the one that you prefer. I’ll number the pics below #1 - Walnut and #2 - Black for simplicity of voting. I’ll let you vote a #3 if you don’t like either. #1 – Walnut #2 – Black Yep, comments and critiques are always welcome and encouraged. You will be able to find the pattern in “New Pattern Announcements” in Pattern Central herein.

good choice

Ok Rodney. good eyes. The drill bits should be 68 not 86

Very nice work, Jessie. Nice flower bed also. Concerning fret work, just remember you're cutting one hole at a time. No more, no less.

That means a lot. Thank you. I am very new to scroll sawing, not new to tools though. I started scroll sawing to make appliques for my flower boxes. Then decided that was a lot of fun. So here I am, working my way up to fretwork (which seems like a huge challenge).

That turned out real nice. I would have never thought of staining like that.

As Bob Ross would say, "A happy little accident"

excellent job

If there were boo-boo's, you must have put a band-aid on them because I sure don't see any problem areas. Fantastic job!

My vote is #1

Cutting mistake BS,,he (your husband) need to come on and defend that!!

What kind of blade you talking about? I get that sometimes with spiral blades. Also bought some new thumb screws from the local hardware and they was not flat on the end and that did it too. It’s quite hard to dress the ends flat without going on an angle unless you use some sort of jig. Since the Hawks don’t have the spinning end insert like some of the other saws I found it to be way more picky about how flat and smooth the ends are. I’ve always wanted to build a jig out of metal but the wooden one does a good enough job. Take a scrap piece of plywood at least 1/4 inch thick and drill you a hole just the right size so the thumb and set screws will hold tightly when threading them in and screw them in just enough to protrude slighting on the back side. Now make sure they are threaded into the wood straight. Then you can sand them completely flat and reinstall the set screw with a little blue loc-tite and adjust it so the blade is in the center of the slot in the blade clamps. Doing this usually will solve any blade slipping and bending.

Both are nice, but I feel I'm going against the grain, I like #2. Black and white make it stand out, but I'm not a critic. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. Jerry

Very cool project! I can definitely relate to thinking something I did is trash and realizing latter that it’s fine. Glad you didn’t chunk it.

I have never had that happen to my Hawks and I tighten them real tight so I would agree with Ray that they might be rough. Also check and make sure your blade is centered in the clamp. That might cause it too if it’s not centered.

Barb, you have done a beautiful job on that, RJ

# 2 really pops

Where I live, during rush hour I might see 2-3 cars within a 10 mile drive .. This morning I had to go about 100 mile trip for a appointment. I left at 5am and only seen 1 car on my way to the expressway which is about 15 miles to the expressway.

Looks great, the color really adds to the piece.

That is the plan.

Loving that #1.

As far as colorant goes......mica powder gives you the " river " look with the streaks in it. Regular colorant is semi transparent and can be used in the fashion of stained glass where sun shines through. I have some alcohol ink but have never used but others use it making coasters and it gives you an abstract sort of look. Amazon has it all relatively cheap. I use the " let's resin "brand, but have used the cheapest stuff with good results.

You do soooo many fun projects. They all look good also.

I think it is a great piece and turned out exactly how it was supposed to. I have a great wall and an address if you want to ship it. I would definetely hang a good one like that up!!

That a Great Dane right Dick only joking looks like a westie to me. Roly

I use a digital scale to mix epoxy but make certain to know if the mix is by volume or weight and adjust carefully. I mix it in small plastic pill cups. Just my opinion but using epoxy is messy and not as easy as it looks and not cheap. I use Bob Smith Epoxy from Amazon which is about $13 for 4.5 oz. I have done it a couple of times but only with something special. My main use is for actually to glue things.

You'll find a way. The same way I have 3 saws in my 9 x 13 shop. I have an 8 foot workbench, a 14 inch full size bandsaw, a drill press, my fold up Dewalt table saw and a stack tool box. You just find a way.

Well BadBob, what was the outcome of this saw? Did you jump in your car and head over to buy it? I, for one, hope so.

A really nice project. I enjoyed seeing your discription on how you finish. I will try to give it a try, as I do not do or understand the finishing part for my wood working. I need to adapt a method I like. I really am very seldom happy with that part of my work. So thanks again for the education. Dick heppnerguy

My finishing process is similar to yours in that I prepare my piece prior to cutting. Sand, wipe with damp cloth, sand again, until I am satisfied. When finished with removing fuzzies I will then stain. Since most of my projects are small my staining process is; pour a little stain into a zip lock bag, place my project in the bag, slosh the bag around for about a minute or two to ensure stain is in all the fret work, place the stained piece on a small oven rack, then using a small Home Depot air compressor will blow on piece to remove drips, wipe down. If satisfied will perform process again. Kind of a modified dipping process. When satisfied will spray Deft poly on it. I use the cheapest baggies I can find. If I make larger project will have to get some trays. That is my process. Jerry