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As many of you do, I receive daily Email from Steve Good with his Scroll Saw projects. Most of his projects are not my “cup of tea”. However, every now and then one of his projects will grab my interest. Earlier this week I downloaded his pattern for a solid wood Rose Vase which I decided to experiment with and make with a few modifications. The major modification was that I wanted both the front and back to have the rose image cutout and have solid backers that I could use to apply color to the image. I knew I did not have any significant quantity of a specific hardwood in stock that I could use to make it and did not want to purchase any right now. However, I did have a verity of cut offs of Maple and Walnut that were of the correct size that I decided to use. I was able to find six pieces, all of which were 1/4” thick, except one piece was only 3/16” thick. Also, the number of available pieces allowed me to make one face Walnut and the other face Maple, another modification to the design. Since this is a vase, the middle two pieces - the 3/16” and one 1/4” would be cut to form the internal cavity. First, I stack cut the full six layers to the rough outside configuration using a Pegas #5 skip tooth blade. Second, I stack cut the Rose Image in the front and back piece using Pegas #1 MGT R blades. Should have flipped the finished face of the back over so the image would face the same way but I didn’t. So, the Front and back face in opposites directions, but that was OK with me. Third, I stack cut the middle two layers to form the cavity, again using the Pegas #5 skip tooth blade. Here again I did not follow the pattern. I started the cut, following the pattern at the mouth of the vase, but simply cut a straight down rectangle from the inside of bulge near the top. This added significant rigidity and glue surface to the middle pieces. After adding my color with Artist Acrylics to the backers, the glue up was straight forward. First the middle two pieces, the two front pieces, and the two back pieces were individually glued together. Then I glued the three assembly’s together to form the completed vase. Although all the layers were originally stack cut, the final glued up stack was not perfectly lined up and a bit of sanding was needed with both my bench belt sander and my rotary oscillating sander to flush up and smooth all the perimeter sides. Finally, I eased all the sharp corners with sanding sponges and fine hand sanded all surfaces with 220 grit sponges and then 600 grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper. The finish is multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. This Rose Vase will be given to my Lady and occupy a place in our home. She already loves it!!!!!!! Hoping this lengthy dialog was not too boring. Comments and critiques always welcome.

An Alex Fox Pattern C-03. I enlarged the pattern by 30% to fit 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 10" square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. Entry holes drilled with Grobet #68 HSS Twist Drill Bits. Finish is two coats spray Lacquer Clear Gloss with sanding on the Mac Mop between coats. Comments welcome.

Hi all My girlfriend asked me to make something for her mate she has not seen in ages I had 2 days to do it. here is the result

Here are some pieces I have done. Some using my Dad's old saw and some are the new things made this past few weeks on the new saw. None are completely finished yet, I'll get to that eventually. I'm just having fun cutting at the moment!

The piece is titled First Fathers. It depicts Mount Rushmore with the following Indian chiefs in front. Chief Joseph, Sitting Bull, Geronimo and Chief Red Cloud. I cut it from 1/8” Baltic Birch plywood (440 cuts). It was finished with Danish oil. It is backed with black foam board and framed behind glass with a frame set I purchased.

For those that don’t know my brother owns a lumber mill. They had the lumber grade people there sorting lumber and this lumber didn’t meet the requirements so either I was to come get it or it was going into the wood burner. I still haven’t used the full two truck loads of walnut he gave me last fall. And while there he reminded me I am supposed to go to another mill that has 200bdf of 4ft pieces that he gave me last month that they needed to move out of the storage area so I guess I should have plenty of walnut lumber for a couple years probably, While there he tried to get me to take a stack of spalted maple he has. He gave me 100 or so bdf about 10 years ago that I still haven’t used that I told him I was thinking about selling, burning or something because it doesn’t fit with my typical projects I make.

Made this from 1/4" ply experimented with tape reference the bottom tape straight across then stained it and this is how it turned out. Quite happy with it to go to market next week with some mini eggs in. Roly

Needed a quick project to test out the hawk being as it was acting up. Found this Steve Good candle holder so decided to go with it. Going to have to have a weekend sanding and finishing soon as stuff is building up

Something I finally finished. As I was cutting, mistakes were made. Hubby saw it and asked about it. When I looked, I couldn't really see the mistakes. Put a coat of shellac on it and Voila! it is done. Never discount what you have done - I was ready to throw this out!

Very nice work, Jessie. Nice flower bed also. Concerning fret work, just remember you're cutting one hole at a time. No more, no less.

I crafted this plaque using ribbon striped (quarter sawed) sapele. When cutting the tree I set my saw at approximately a two degree angle. The tree worked well for this because it was one continuous cut. I pushed the tree out about 1/2 way and did a lot of sanding with a sanding mop. I'm very happy with the look.

Here’s my process.

I've been away for the last few days. I was able to talk to TJ and got him all squared away.

I was doing my morning walk and joined a neighbor on the last part of my walk home. He had a cute little dog with him and I remembered that I had a pattern of his dog's bread. So I told him I would make a cutting of it for him. He liked the idea. For the live of me, I can not recall the name of the bread but it is a very common one these days. Anyway, it was an easy cut and a nicely done pattern, so here is the one I cut. Dick heppnerguy

@Travis

Just thanking The Razz for his portrait that I downloaded for my wife's birthday present of the Rolling Stones. I hope that I did it justice. I used 1/2 " black cherry as my wood with routered frame edges as I usually do on a lot of my fretwork projects. I used FDUR #3 and # 1 blades and a #3 new spiral blade for smoothing out the letters.

good choice

That means a lot. Thank you. I am very new to scroll sawing, not new to tools though. I started scroll sawing to make appliques for my flower boxes. Then decided that was a lot of fun. So here I am, working my way up to fretwork (which seems like a huge challenge).

That is the plan.

Congrats on your new "toy". Yoi will love that saw. At some point you may want to add the Pegas clamps.

First off thank you FrankEV, as soon as I saw this pattern I just knew I had to try it. I do apologize for butchering it but I really enjoyed cutting it! Another one for the sand and finish pile. I'm going to see if I can find a piece of live edge or at least a decent piece of solid wood and try it again, because I'd love to hang this somewhere.

I converted an Image of a metal wall hanging I found on-line into a scrollable 11 x 17 pattern. The conversion did not take much work as the hanging artwork was already very much like a scroll saw product. The only thing I had to do was let Inkscape invert the image to produce the cutout areas in a red outline with gray fill. The metal wall hanging was shown as Black with the contrasting image in White. I liked the way it looked but wondered how it would look in contrasting wood colors as how we, Scrollers, often present our work. I decided to stack cut two 5/32” thick solid core ply panels, one Walnut and the other Birch. The Walnut panel was then left natural (although I did darken it slightly with a quick wipe on/wipe off coat of Walnut stain) and it was affixed to 1/4” thick BB Ply backer that was left Natural. The Birch panel was primed and painted with rattle can Gloss Spray Black and affixed to 1/4” thick BB Ply backer that was primed and painted with rattle can Gloss Spray White. Both assembled panels were further protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. If these cutting were solid wood, no framing would have been necessary, not unlike the original metal wall hanging which is unframed. However, to hide the plywood edges, I made narrow (1/2” wide) drop-in type frames that match the cut panels. Walnut for the Walnut panel and Pine, primed and painted Gloss Black, for the Black panel. Be warned, you should not let the apparent simplicity of this image fool you. I chose to use a Pegas #1 MGT R blade to cut the pattern to insure the cut edges were sharp. I found the cutting, with all the sharp pointy corners resulted in a LOT of time-consuming Panel spinning. I also found it took much patience and fine touch control to follow the simple, but long, curve pattern lines accurately. The image is a mirror image side to side, so cutting misstates would not be able to be hidden. I think I did OK, but it did require many rest breaks to keep my eyes from getting too crossed. If you have taken the time to read through this far, I have a BIG REQUEST. Even if you have no comments, please reply with a simple vote for the one that you prefer. I’ll number the pics below #1 - Walnut and #2 - Black for simplicity of voting. I’ll let you vote a #3 if you don’t like either. #1 – Walnut #2 – Black Yep, comments and critiques are always welcome and encouraged. You will be able to find the pattern in “New Pattern Announcements” in Pattern Central herein.

Hi all, I’m making a new table for my scroll saw, it’s the one weak link in my original modification in as much as I drilled the blade hole to big, so when doing complex cutting there’s not enough support for the wood over the hole resulting in premature breaks. So can anyone tell me what is the hole size/slot on the saw you using, also some table don’t have dust extraction holes around the hole/slot what’s your thought on that, because I use my own design cyclone dust extraction system I’m kind of leaning towards adding the hole in a circular pattern, I was thinking either 1/8” or 5/32” it’s difficult to judge the size fro website photos

Why not buy some of that magnetic material that they make signs out of and just lay it over your existing table? You can poke a pin hole in it and have a tiny hole. Then if/when it gets worn out, replace it with a new one. Is your table steel? If so the magnetic stuff will still great and it's got to be far easier to replace than making a whole new table top. Just trace around it while it's attached to your table top and cut it out. Easy-peasy!

I've been scrolling for over 25 years, the last 6 or so in an EX-21. I haven't ever damaged the table or enlarged the blade hole on any of the 3 saws I've owned.

I’ve only been scroll sawing for two years and have cut numerous Russ Beard complex patterns, and I have never damaged the table with a saw blade yet. So you have lost me here why would you be cutting the table, I only use straight pin less FD straight blades because that’s all we can get so, I’m a little confused about this.

Run out of #1 #2 blades so was limited on detail near the end. Would of done it A3 but the price of ply now is a joke.

Short notice or not, great job!

Oh you poor soul, how will you ever get over it Feel free to send some to me, I'll use it!

Scrappile, that would involve laser cutting and a insert made here in SA that would cost a lot of money, so I’ll have to thank my chances.

Thank you. I found the owl pattern on this site in the patterns folder under animals. The scorpion was sent to me a while back, not sure where it came from. Could have been from this site as well.

When doing really small work, I have a piece of thin (about 1/32") Baltic Birch about 12 X 12" that I have added a hole just a little larger than my #2 scroll saw blades. When needing it, I add a couple of small 2" pieces of double sided tape to the bottom side, clean the saw dust and wax off the saw table, and attach this piece of plywood to the saw table. It messes with my under table dust collection, but I don't have problems with small pieces breaking or getting pulled into the blade hole. I would leave it on there for all cutting, but I do like my dust collection system working properly, so it's only added when needed. Charley

Beautiful work, RJ

I think you have to have made a certain number of post first, RJ

Not sure if this will help, I was just measuring some stuff and had my calipers handy. I wasn’t sure if you were using mm or inch so I did both. Hope this is useful

I have an EX-21. I'm not sure what the dimensions are of the blade hole, but it can't be much more than perhaps 1/4" wide and less than an inch long. As for the dust extraction holes, I do not like them. Small bits of wood have a habit of getting hung up in them. I removed the dust collection apparatus from below the table, as it was more of a hassle than it was worth. I've considered filling the holes with Bondo or something similar but have never gotten around to it.

That is a fabulous collection, and I love the flower box. Keep up the great work. Marg

I love cutting out owls #1 walnut all the way for me Frank .Very nice work indeed. Cutting out the sharp corners may take a bit longer to do but the final results sure worth the extra effort IMHO.

Mighty fine cutting, Dick

That is quite a collection of some mighty fine cutting.

It is a Alex Fox design and was published in the Fall 2020 issue of SSWWC (issue 80). I did the test cut and if I remember correctly I did three layers at a time of different woods, as you say cutting a single layer of 1/8 is tricky even with a high tooth count blade with NO reverse teeth (28TPI) the reverse tooth gap really tears up the thin wood. . The hardwood layers were sandwiched between BB and other less exotic woods.

There are no mistakes they are creative modifications. I really like the base.

No matter, you're keeping the Dewalt for backup so win-win.

I will request the clamps for Christmas. It is too bad the ones on the DeWalt won't work on this.

Ray, Thanks for all the info. I have solved the problem a different way. With encouragement from hubby, went out and upgraded. It was time anyhow. Now that I am retired, I have been spending hours per day on the saw. Purchased this yesterday. New but open box so got a deal on it. $1,000 Canadian! I feel blessed that I am in a position to be able to do that. This will now give me time to tinker with the DeWalt and not get (as)frustrated.

Here are the video's I just took. 20230321_124930.mp4 20230321_125125.mp4

If you end up with the "dreaded knocking noise" then it will require taking that cover off one more time and file/grind off the portion that is being contacted by the drive link. If you need more info on that go to scrollsaw.com and see the pics.

Here are two that I done a while back...

I take a picture with my phone and email it to myself.