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  1. heppnerguy

    heppnerguy

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/31/2023 in all areas

  1. I bought the Kleenex pattern from Sue Mey. I thought it might be fun to have a decorative box for her Kleenex and I let her choose the pattern for it. It was a bit challenging on the lid as I cut the little fairies hand and feet. They are very small and delicate. I choose a 2/0 Pegas to make that delicate cut and it came out perfect. I cut it from 1/4 inch Juniper and gave it one coat of spray finish. I thought it was not worthy of more coats, as it is just a fun piece anyway. Next on up is a cross pattern I started to cut about a year ago and got a little upset as the sawdust would not blow off my project as I cut and I could not see the lines very well, so I set it aside. I saw it laying on one of my storages in my garage and thought I would go ahead and finish cutting it, not remembering why I had given up on it before. As I started cutting it, it became quite apparent as to why I decided not to cut finish it. Cedar seems to have that problem for me a lot. No other wood does that to me. I decided to try a smaller blade and see if that might help solve my problem. It did help a little but it did not change things a lot. I also used a #2/0R Pegus blade and decided to finish anyway. So here is the results of my effort. The wood is red cedar 1/8th inch. I will try to stay away from it from now on as much as possible though. Dick heppnerguy
    8 points
  2. FrankEV

    Today is...

    Here is my version of a sign with the saying Judy (chellcass) found and posted in New Pattern Announcements. When my Lady saw it she said please make me a sign with that saying on it for my Birthday (which isn’t until August). I think she wants to hang it over her desk at work…not sure the boss will be happy with it! Well impatient me, I couldn’t wait. So, I used Scroll-Calligraphy Font and developed a pattern for this sign cut with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades in an 5/32x8x10 Solid Core Birch Ply panel affixed to a 1/4” Solid Core Walnut Ply backer that was stained to darken with Minwax Dark Walnut. The frame is a 1/2” wide Pine shadow box type primed and Painted a rattle can spray satin Dark Brown. Comments and critiques always welcome.
    5 points
  3. Scruffydog

    Dan The Man Wordart

    Here is my latest project for a friend at work. Made from mystery wood that came from a knife block cut into individual boards. Hope he likes it. But, I haven't applied a finish yet and am looking for suggestions. I'll be putting magnets on the bottom for the cubicle wall. Comments appreciated.
    4 points
  4. I crafted this plaque using ribbon striped (quarter sawed) sapele. When cutting the tree I set my saw at approximately a two degree angle. The tree worked well for this because it was one continuous cut. I pushed the tree out about 1/2 way and did a lot of sanding with a sanding mop. I'm very happy with the look.
    3 points
  5. My Granddaughter and her husband are in the process of moving into their brand new home so I thought they might like to have a name plaque by their front door to greet visitors. It is also only about a week away from their 20 anniversary so I added their marriage year to it also. I copied the idea for it from something I saw on line. I used a #3 Pegas MGT blade and cut it into what I believe to be Mahogany 3/4 inch base. All of the like colored wood I received from my son and I am not sure of the species of it. I mailed it out this morning so I will not get a response for a few days. Dick heppnerguy
    3 points
  6. kmmcrafts

    Another Load Of Walnut

    This should be the last of my walnut lumber. Hopefully I will be able to make room to get it all inside. Last two photos is what I had from last falls haul. I did use a small stack that I couldn’t get up above last year. Todays load has been cut for a year so it should be dry enough to use. I should be set on walnut lumber for a year or so I think. Now if he would just get some rejected cherry. The lumber graders will reject it if it’s not a certain length or if it has a split or knot in it within the certain length.
    3 points
  7. Just finished this piece. Pattern by me.
    3 points
  8. I have a friend that has a "thing" about James Dean's 550 Spyder Porsche. It was time to do another car with a portrait. Dean was an up and coming movie star of the mid '50's with a love of fast cars and racing. He had several popuar movies under his belt including "Rebel with out a Cause" and "Giant" and took his earnings to purchase the 550. He was on his way to a race in California when the accident occured. There are several stories regarding the accident and the remains of the car and make for interesting reading. The car design was taken from a photo and the Keith Wood portrait of James Dean came from SSV pattern library. The car pattern was not too difficult but the portrait was more involved, especially the mouth. Cutting was on 1/8" BBPW and I made a separate frame from molding purchased from Lowes. Finish is Shellac and Gloss Lacquer.
    3 points
  9. TAIrving

    Blades .....

    @OCtoolguyI also had a problem with the Pegas MGT 2/0 blades breaking when I tensioned them. I don't like adjusting the large knob at the rear as that affects other properties of the saw. The technique I now use is to press ever so slightly on the side of the 2/0 blade to introduce a little bit of extra slack before tensioning. It takes a little bit of practice but after a while you develop a feel for it. @kmmcraftsI also do like Kevin said to get the extra slack out of the EX type saw (I have a Pegas): i.e. I clamp and tension, then release the tension and clamp, re-clamp and re-tension. For the OP @Eplfan2011: I have not experimented with different brands or types of blades. I use almost exclusively the Pegas MGT blades, the #3 and #1 being my go-to blades. But I will use larger blades for some projects (thicker wood, simpler cuts) or finer blades for finer details in fretwork. And i will use spiral blades, mostly for larger kerf when that is called for.
    3 points
  10. Charlie E

    Hiking stick holder

    I made a hiking stick holder for my Lord Of The Rings bedroom.
    2 points
  11. alexfox

    Firefighter

    My latest pattern - Firefighter (I am not shure what word is more correct? Firefighter or fireman) I added two colored variant, recommended size 7 x 8 inches, 4 layers. Firefighter pattern
    2 points
  12. We've been asked if we make anything other than animal puzzles and wall hangers. Besides the lamps and clocks and now signs, we've decided to add some limited edition art work. We've so far done 5 different items which we made 3 of each except the Beach Lady - she's a single item. The frames and backing on these items feature a pine frame and a salvaged door backing both made from re-claimed wood from various Hurricane Michael pieces retrieved and donated after the storm. Some of the frames feature an Ogee edge, some are Chamfered and some are simple squared off. There are a few that have been stained but they're not done yet. Because there is only so much of this wood, we're offering it as a limited edition item and we're looking for a local charity to which we can donate some of the proceeds. Anyway, thanks as always in advance
    2 points
  13. I finished another horse piece today. I adapted the pattern from a stencil I found online.
    2 points
  14. I have several different types but for this project I think I used this one. https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/PARMM072/ I used mainly a 120 grit. I also have it in a 80 and 220 grit.
    2 points
  15. jerry walters

    Blades .....

    Colin, at the beginning of this subject you said the subject of blades has been beaten to death. This kind of took me back to my school days. We were promoted to the next grade, but early in the school year we always reviewed what we learned the previous year or maybe 2 or 3 years back. This was done in an effort to remind us of what we probably forgot during the summer. So, I always learn something new when the subject comes up again. So, to y'all (learned the from FrankEV) that have been members and to the newbies. don't hesitate to bring up subjects that have been posted before. We all need reviews. Thanks for listening. Jerry
    2 points
  16. Tj Brown

    New color fill

    Thank y'all! Here's the process.
    2 points
  17. Scrappile

    I finally did it! YAY!

    Took me three tries to get a outfeed table I am real happy with. the first on was attached and I made an adjustable leg to hold it up. It was okay but cumbersome. The second was a table that I could roll to the back of the saw when needed, only problem with that, the table was always covered with stuff, because it was also my work table. So I am back to an attached one the I can raise and lower, this time I used collapsible shelf brackets to attach it with They work great, not expensive and rated for several hundred pounds so plenty strong enough. You will like yours. make a table saw a lot safer when cutting long stuff.
    2 points
  18. Dave Monk

    Scroll Saw Inlay

    I had several of you guys ask me about doing an inlay video. Our grandsons have been staying with us for the past week. My oldest one is twelve and is great on computer stuff so he helped me do this.
    1 point
  19. This is just the latest process that I'm using. It's constantly evolving and I'm looking forward to seeing any ideas from other scrollers that might improve on it. Getting new ideas and learning new tricks is something that I have always enjoyed about meeting other woodworkers and seeing their work. Applying The Pattern Affix your pattern to the wood. This is a Celtic cross design from Sue Mey that I like. Interior Cuts Make your interior cuts. I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of the wood. Then I cover the face of the design with a double layer of packing tape to use as a backer for the resin. Resin Dam I use common plumber's putty to build a (dam) around the design. Epoxy After trying many different brands. I found the Promise brand deep pour tabletop epoxy works best for me. I also use a digital scale to make sure that I get an exact 50/50 mix to the gram. Dyes & Powders I use Alumilite dyes and powders. Adding Color It doesn't take much of either. 1 drop of the dye and just a little of the gold and green powders. The amount of powder shown here is about twice the amount needed. Mixing When you are mixing. Mix the resin and colors slowly while scraping the sides and bottom of the container. Try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum. Pour Then slowly pour the mixture trying to fill all the holes evenly. Popping Air Bubbles Once poured. I use a cheap hair dryer to heat the resin and get as many bubbles out as I can. Let The Epoxy Cure I let it sit for 24-36 hours to harden. I keep my shop around 70 degrees. Trimming The Epoxy After the has hardened, I remove as much of the plumber's putty as I can and run it through my planer to level the back surface down to the clean wood. I make very shallow passes. Maybe 1/32 at a time. Exterior Cuts Now I drill an entry hole and make the exterior cuts. Support Material I save the wood from the outside of the design and peel all the tape off. I put the piece back into the wood that I cut it from and tape the back side to hold it. This is to protect the piece while running it back through the planer. Final Planing Then I lightly shave the front of the piece down until I get it down to clean wood. Finishing Then remove the piece and sand. I start with 100, 220, 320, 400, 600, and finish with 800. Once done you can apply the finish of your choice. I use clear polyurethane. Final Project I hope you enjoyed reading about my process and I look forward to seeing the projects you make. The next photo is a different cross but shows what it looks like when finished.
    1 point
  20. It's been shared here that some scrollers among us repurpose abused, discarded and unwanted furniture as raw material for scrolling projects. With that in mind, my beloved wife Penny and I visited a "junk shop" and happened on these two unwanted pieces. The end table appears to be someone's old project and is made from a measured 14+ board feet of solid black walnut, a little over 3/4 inch thick. We paid $25 for it. The solid oak table looks like an early-to-mid-80's inexpensive designer style table popular as I recall back then. Measures out to over 5 board feet of solid oak almost 1 inch thick, for which we paid $20. Happy with the good luck. This makes walnut, cherry, oak, poplar and pine in our small library. Don.
    1 point
  21. My Baseball gnome for my grandsons. The W with maple leave is the logo for Whitby Canadians.
    1 point
  22. flarud

    Memorial/Urn

    My BIL passed away 2 years ago at 68 years old on this past 25th. My sister, her husband asked me last month if I would make a box to put some of his ashes in for their son. I have never really made a "nice" box so I told her that I would come up with something. He, his son, myself,, the whole family have always been "Truck Guys". So I showed her a picture of a truck I made last year and asked her if I was able to make another one and insert some ashes in it, if it would be alright. She said yes. The body is made from Hickory and the fenders are Walnut. Several coats of Lacquer for the finish. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the bottom for the ashes and sent her a picture. She asked me where I was going to put my stamp. I had forgotten that she wanted me to stamp it.. with the hole in the center of the bottom of the truck, I didn't have room anywhere to put my stamp. So I plugged the hole for the ashes and move it towards the front of the truck. This gave me room for my stamp. I drilled the hole about 3/4" deep and filled halfway with ashes. I used my plug cutter on the remaining piece of Hickory to make a plug. I had my wife make a red heart on her Cricut to put around the plug. I think it turned out pretty nice. Now I have to make a "tire knocker" for their 19 year old grandson with some of his ashes in it for him to place in his Jeep.. in case he ever gets into a tussle,, he will have his Grandpa there to help. LOL
    1 point
  23. JessL

    9th Project

    Just finished cutting my 9th project on my new Delta saw. I'm really happy with it. Just need to sand and put a finish on it. I used Pegas MG #3 and #5 blades on 1/4" Alaska birch.
    1 point
  24. nicely cut. Everyone seems to enjoy their name in wood. It should be a big hit with him. Dick heppnerguy
    1 point
  25. Thank you for your comments. Cedar is a really pretty wood and I personally like the smell of it. Always good to wear a mask, of which I very seldom do. I have realized after many years of scrolling and intarsia projects that I have a shortness of breath that I believe is probably the reason for my problem. Still don't wear one. How dumb is that? Dick heppnerguy
    1 point
  26. A couple of weeks ago you posted on of your projects and stated you used a sanding mop which produced a very nice project. I didn't really know what a sanding mop was, so I started googling. Thousands of sanding mops popped up. I ask you, what kind did you use? Thought I might like to give it a try. Jerry
    1 point
  27. Thanks for the advice Dick. I will keep that in mind. So far I've been too nervous about messing up to go fast.
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. wombatie

    James Dean's 550 Spyder

    That is super cool. Love it. Marg
    1 point
  30. heppnerguy

    Blades .....

    I recently was cutting an extremely tight pattern and the turn was so small and sharp that I had my doubts as to whether or not I would be able to make that cut and not increase the room needed to do so. I was cutting a 1/4 inch thick Juniper wood and I usually use a Pegas #3 mgt blade for almost all my projects now. But for this really delicate, small and sharp turn, I elected to to to a #2/0 Pegas MGT and found I was successful. About the breakage on the smaller Pegas blades, I found the same problem with my blades breaking so I have been staying away from using them. I too have a Excalibur saw. What I have done to prevent the breakage is to fasten my blade in the holder, back off the back knob about 1/8th of a turn,set my tension knob and then turn the back knob to take up the slack. I found I had not problem with breakage that way and I turned the back knob only enough to take the tension off the blade but reap on the knob. I never broke a blade and I had no problem staying on the pattern lines or making sharp and small turns Dick heppnerguy
    1 point
  31. My wife just bought more boxes of Kleenex to put into the box I made for them and they were about 1/4 inch too large for the wood boxes, so now I need to enlarge them a little and re-cut them. No big deal, just was not what I really wanted to do at this time. Thanks for the comment. I will go ahead and put more finish on the next ones. Dick heppnerguy
    1 point
  32. Charlie E

    Cameo Box

    Nice work!
    1 point
  33. Charlie E

    New color fill

    Looks great!
    1 point
  34. Both look great to me. I’ve had that trouble with Cedar also. I don’t like to cut it for that reason, and it seems to bother my sinuses more than most wood.
    1 point
  35. At one time, I thought about a ShopSmith but after seeing how much trouble it is to use each piece, I decided I don't have the patience. My hat's off to you folks who are able to do it.
    1 point
  36. Dak0ta52

    Blades .....

    I think the commenters here have summed it up pretty well. You have to gain experience to find out what you, specifically, prefer. Me, I tend to lean toward the smaller blades when possible. The #2/0, #0 and #1 are usually what is affixed to my saw rather it be spiral or straight. My preferred brand is Pegas. If I'm cutting fretwork on a piece that is dimensional (straight lines, circles, etc) I prefer a straight blade. If it is a line that is critical and could make or break a piece, I'll use a skip or double skip blade which cuts a little slower, in my opinion, than a MGT blade which is what I normally use. For portraits that are erratic (various sizes cuts, random locations) I'll us a spiral. I can't give you any preferences towards puzzles, segmentations, etc, because I haven't cut those. The more professionals here at the Village will have to comment on those. I'm usually cutting 1/4-inch ply that is stacked, 2-layers. I have cut 3/4 and even 1 1/4 material. The only issue I had was with the 1 1/4 material where the blade deflection from pushing the material into the blade. The top of the material where the pattern was located was true to the pattern. However, the bottom of the material was cut off and broke through some of the thinner frets because of the bending of the blade. Good luck on your quest!
    1 point
  37. Eplfan2011

    Blades .....

    Kevin, I pretty much agree to most of what you stated above. In my hawk I almost exclusively use pegas mgt blades as the saw is pretty gentle and the aggressive nature of the blades seems to be a perfect match. The Delta on the other hand is so aggressive that the MGT blades tend to run away with me regardless of saw speed, unless I'm sawing thick wood. I understand that this is down to my lack of skills, which I'm working on and on this saw I prefer FDUR blades but lately I'm gravitating towards the Fd polar instead. I've found working on my hand placement and trying to keep the wood moving while cutting has improved my cutting more than anything else, right now I'm working at trying to be consistent.
    1 point
  38. My Shopsmiths don't lend themselves to infeed or outfeed tables so, roller stands it is. I love my 'smiths but, sometimes they're a royal PITA.
    1 point
  39. OCtoolguy

    Blades .....

    Thanks Wich, you've brought many things to my attention that I never considered before.
    1 point
  40. daveww1

    New color fill

    very nice
    1 point
  41. I am not bragging here but rather want to show others maybe unfamiliar with rescuing or repurposing woods, just what a wealth sometimes can be found. I carefully disassembled the black walnut end table(?). It involved drilling out a dozen walnut dowel plugs to access slotted screws (so hatefully 1980's) and popping out some finishing nails. End result, remeasured with a tape measure which revealed over 23 board feet of 90%-95% usable walnut. And several square feet of nice 1/4 inch plywood. Large boards are 13/16 thick. WIsh I knew about the craftsperson who built this piece. Their work and design thoughts remind me of my own works in the 80's. No idea who they are or were but following my belief system I felt a desire to say a brief prayer for the craftsperson. If they are still with us a stranger's thoughts may be good. If they've moved on I want them to know I value their past skills and that they did well. Good things to everyone here and thank you for looking. Don.
    1 point
  42. Dak0ta52

    New color fill

    Nice job. Did you use epoxy?
    1 point
  43. I just finished disassembling the oak table. All good and solid. Only things not usable to me were the short, rough corner braces with pocket hole screw holes up under the apron sides. I also salvaged about 1/4 pound plated, hardened steel Philips drive #12 wood screws, eight perfect 2 1/2 inch 1/4-20 slot head bolts and 8, 1/4-20 T-nuts. The walnut end table will be a little more ticklish. The maker hid screw heads under walnut dowel buttons glued and sanded flush. Some nails were also used to craft the piece and I'll need to take care disassembling as I study it for metal anything that would ruin planer blades. This is rewarding though for sure. Don.
    1 point
  44. I'll join in, just as gifts for friends. Took the pic of the dragon before I got my clocks.
    1 point
  45. I think that part of the reason for this is that narrow lines and fine detail can kind of get lost when cut in thicker material. Thicker material creates more shadows, which can obscure some of the detail. I try to match up the pattern, blades and material. If the pattern has a lot of really fine detail that necessitate cutting it with a very small blade, then I would prefer to cut it out of thinner stock. If I can get away with using a larger blade, then I'm more likely to go with thicker material. These aren't hard & fast rules though. There is plenty of overlap within those parameters. Our personal preferences are mainly derived from our experience (trial & error), which makes it a little tough to recommend a blade for someone else. Knowing what blade you can use to cut a particular pattern is something best achieved via experience, as your circumstances and conditions will differ from mine. For example, I use a #1 FDUR blade for a lot of stuff that it probably isn't recommended for. I routinely cut 1/2" thick red oak with it and have no problems. Many would use a larger blade, in a similar application. As for the pattern above, I wouldn't hesitate to cut that out of 1/2" birch. It all depends on the final presentation. Is this something you want to mount onto a backer or in a frame? If so, then I think thinner stock is a better look. If it will stand alone, then I think thicker material generally looks better. I think a lighter colored species will help mitigate the shadow problem. I would likely use my go-to FDUR #1 for that pattern in 1/4" - 1/2" thick stock. I rarely use anything smaller these days, unless it's a spiral blade on a really intricate portrait pattern.
    1 point
  46. You are most welcome. You will get it all figured out soon.
    1 point
  47. Welcome to the Village Marie. You made an excellent choice in the EX. I have one I bought new in 2010 and also a Seyco that I purchased new in 2018 I believe, both excellent machines. At that time Scrappile had a Seyco and I went visit him and try his out before I bought mine. He does beautiful work, I have had the pleasure of getting to see a lot of his pieces. I live in Eastern Oregon. I got to meet Heppnerguy as well when he was here visting Paul ( Scrappile ). Enjoy your Ex and happy scrolling. If you have questions they will get answered on here.
    1 point
  48. I made this clock for my son's Tiki Bar. It's backlit with color-changing LED light-strips.
    1 point
  49. Couple of clocks I've done. Love scrolling and creating saw dust!
    1 point
  50. Oh, my saw is just a Skil. I just got the WEN pinless blade holders and they're MUCH better than others I've tried (I no longer have to crank the bolt down almost to the point of stripping the threads OR my allen wrench!). I have FD UR blades (sizes 3, 5, 7, and 9) and some Olson's I bought back when I first got my saw. If this goes well, I plan to upgrade my saw at some point...we'll see.
    1 point
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