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I was finally able to finish the framing of these pieces. The tractor is the second stack cut of the one I painted and posted earlier. This one is 1/4-inch Birch stained Ipswich Pine as well as the Pine frame. The backer is sanded pine painted black. The two barn pieces are from Jim Blume's Americana series. This pattern is Americana 10, Long Forgotten. The 1/4-inch Oak piece is stained Minwax Natural and the frame is stained Ipswich Pine. The other piece is 1/4-inch Birch stained Ipswich Pine and the Pine frame is stained Natural. All three were sprayed with 4-coats of Polyacrylic lightly sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between coats. Thanks, Jim, for a great pattern!

Here is the 2nd planter I have done. The first was the pug, which I delivered today to my neighbor and she loves it- Yay. Now the bulldog is complete and ready for his new home. I think I picked the perfect boards for the butt ends. LOL

Latest piece. Solid Cherry cut with #3 mg blade. Finished with a coat of shellac then beeswax/mineral oil. I do not remember where I got the pattern

Hi everyone, I made 16 of these trinket boxes for my grandkids. This is Sheila Landry designs. There about 5 inch round and about 2 1/2 deep. You can make them as deep as you want by adding more rings. They took a while to do all of them but I like the results. Now my other problem I have is what can I make with all the scrap circles. There walnut and curly maple 3/8 thick. Any ideas.

Finally finished this beautiful Russ Beard Pattern, the frame is home made and I used the Shou Sugi Ban or Yakisugi effect which is a hundred year old Japanese technique that brings out the pattern of the wood. Applied three coats of Danish Oil and two coats Matt Clear Varnish. Staying in South Africa I have had the pleasure of photographing and sitting watch these animals now I’m cutting them. I will be using this technique on all my my fire wildlife cuttings

I lost two fruit trees I had in my back yard due to the severe cold snap we had this past Winter and they needed to be removed. I filled in one tree area with sod, but the other was partially in my paver patio. After removing the tree and replacing some of the pavers I decided to build a fire pit to enjoy next fall when the weather cools off. After many trips to and from Lowes, this 30” square fire pit is the result of my efforts as shown in these pics. Those 3.5” x 7.5” x 11.5” blocks are heavy. I used 48 of them plus 32 of the small spacer blocks. My aching back! I have a trash can next to my saw that gets a lot of the waste pieces I cut out. This material, along with other trash and trimmed off strips have been going out on garbage pickup days, and presumably winding up in the landfill. Upon completing the fire pit build, I realized that I will be needing Firewood and, of course, kindling. The wood cut outs and other trim pieces I generate will make excellent kindling. So now I need two buckets next to the saw…one for wood the other for trash. I think this is a win-win for both the environment and me. And, BTW, sawdust is a great fire starter. I usually turn my sawdust, collected in my vacuum system, into my garden beds, but now I will save some to use in the fire pit. Just a litle bit of useless but important information for your reading pleasure.

Betty and Wilma are done. Still trying to decide if I want to paint Minnie in color or do a black silhouette.

Nice looking fire pit you made, I also have a fire pit and we I typically make enough scraps to not only have kindling wood but most times enough to have 4-5 fires a year just from my scraps.. yep, I mess up and make that much ornamental fire wood, .. No kidding aside on a more serious note, some of the wood I get is rejects because of splits / knots etc.. and I work around those bad areas quite easily doing small scroll sawing works so I do generate a few wheelbarrow loads of scraps every year so it's a win win as the wife and kids love to sit around the fire.. makes great family time for us all.

PM se n t

Very well done.

Very nice Barb, I vote for wall hanging also, you do not want to hide it as a trivet.

I made this for my older son. It took my 2 days but i hope it is good now..

That is very nice Barb. Looks like a trout and moon. Maybe someone was dreaming of nighttime fishing when the pattern was designed. Too nice to be used as a trivet, I vote for wall hanging. Jerry

I don't buy longer than 8' because of storage space in my small shop. However, If you find a nice clean clear grain 12" wide board, it is more $ up front, but cheaper per frame. In Poplar, I usually on by 6' lengths, which is long enough to make frmes up to 11x17.

That is nice. Bet that would sell well up here in Alaska.

I love the Haida art. Great piece! Too nice to hot pan on, I vote for wall hanging.

Very nice Barb, I love the pattern and you have done a great job of cutting it. And it is a very nice piece of wood, I really like cherry. Per your question, how thick is the wood? 1/4" is too thin for a trivet and more than 1/2" is too thick & heavy for a wall hanging. At 1/2" I think it will work either way.

"I'm limited to 8-feet lengths right now because I only have a sedan to haul my purchases." Brings back memories. I used to haul 8' boards in my 1970 Chevelle, 40 years ago. An 8' 1x6 would just fit diagonally, from the dash to the rear deck.

Matthew, I did put a copper wire inside that memory tube (I think that is what they called it). Can't remember the copper wire size. The cable ties are there only because the holder for the tube doesn't stick to the upper arm. I thought of getting some magnets to glue on the support. But for now, the cable ties work OK. Jerry

Thanks Frank. I agree a more premium board would work best for a more elegant piece. These were ripped from a 1X8 after reading the tip from one of your other comments. The Americana series Jim Blume has created is more of a rustic theme and I concur the knotty pine seems more appropriate. Thanks for your advice. I'll look at the wider boards the next time I purchase for frames. I'm limited to 8-feet lengths right now because I only have a sedan to haul my purchases.

You have been a busy man, excellent job and lot’s of happy grand kids, I am sure

awesome work

excellent work

They all look great

Ray, she's in the 1600 block of Bolsa Chica.

All very very nice. I really like the use of the oversized backers to create the matt-like inside frame. The frames are all very well done with nice neat and tight corner miters. The natural rustic frames go very well with the cuttings. If and when you make frames for, say "less rustic" subjects, if you buy the little more pricy premium pine found in Lowes or HD, you can avoid knots that would detract from a less rustic frame. This is especially true if you plan to piant the frames as it is impossible to hide the knots even with paint. I comb through the wood bin to find the clearest boards I can find for my frames. And I buy the widest boards (min 8" but preferably 12") that I rip down to 1 3/4" wide sticks. It is the most economical way if you plan to make a lot of frames.

They are excellent. Love them both. Marg

A nice little production line you had there Ralph. They are excellent. Marg

They all look great, frames compliment them really well.

Great job, Jessie. I agree. Your wood choice was excellent. Just please don't show the underside!

You've been busy, Ralph. Great job!

Ralph, how about these puzzles (a Steve Good pattern). You’ll use 3 circles for each puzzle.

Wife's sister lives in a park, as well. Her address is HB but I don't recall her street address. She owns the mobil but pays around 2K lot rent. I'm 83 y.o. and we moved from the mountains up north to our present location 3 years ago. Moving is a bitch! Especially all my tools.

You did a great job on them. Very very cute!

That was easy. I had them pick what design they wanted.

We decided we are just too old to be making any moves so I guess that's the answer. I wish we were 10 years younger. We'd be gone.

I am currently cutting 3 (stacked), 5/16" thick pieces (15/16" total) for a double lidded basket. Top layer is oak, the bottom two layers are walnut. I am using mostly FD Polar #1 blades; the tension on my Hegner is 5/4 turns. The waste comes out smoothly either top or bottom ( the bottom piece looks as good as the top ). It sounds to me like you need to increase the blade tension. I use the Polar blades because they are " stiffer " than any other blade I've used and resist bending inside the cut. While cutting I will pause and let the piece float, this helps me not put side pressure on the blade.

I believe Rodney hit it on the head. Cutting thick/hard stock with small blades often leads to pushing sideways when trying to steer the blade around curves. This will result in a bowing of the blade that will cause the cut to be out of square. Your table may well be perfectly square, but pushing & bowing the blade sideways will cause the same type of problem that an out of square table would.

Hey Everyone! In this scroll saw project video, I make some neat backpacking stick figures from an amazing book by Fox Chapel Publishing! These amazing and unique stick figures are a great way to use up the ever accumulating scrap wood! Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

I love what you are doing. It is so wonderful when someone sees another being faithful to help a need and then to give her something special as a thank you for caring so much. Very honorable of you. I love it when people reach out like you did. Dick heppnerguy

I hold small parts by drilling a small hole that will not be seen after assembly and inserting a dowel, toothpick, or skewer to make a handle. If I have trouble getting the handle tight enough, I will add a bit of glue and cut it off flush when I am done. For heavier items, I hold the handle with long-nosed locking pliers. Wheels on a stick. Plastic spring clamps work for some things. My pointed Dowel collection. Truck body on a stick. This one is glued in and cut flush after painting. Fenders on a stick. Halloween on a stick.

Awesome works.

This isn't a great picture of the scrollnado on my dewalt. I have circled the top hose. I just used the holder that it came with. The lower hose was attached as mentioned above. Underneath is the Seyco "Metro" vac. I have the older style scrollnado. I did lose a couple of small pieces so learned to turn the vacuum off when cutting very tiny pieces. None of the small pieces blocked the hose.

Matthew, I thought the numbers would show, but they don't, so pretty much top to bottom. Sorry Jerry

Matthew, here you go. Will attach some pictures of my set up which is attached to a Pegas scroll saw. I have had no issues of tiny bits, they just get sucked up and into the recipticle. I hope the pictures make sense. I would expect this fit also on the Dewalt since this is a very popular saw, but don't my word for it. If I can be of further assistance please let me know. 992 & 993 are above and below the saw table. 995 shows saw and how the scrollnado is hooked up along with the small shop vac. 996 is the recipticle the dust goes in. 997 & 998 are side views and you can see both the top and bottom hoses. The table has to be removed to place the bottom hose. This doesn't need to be adjusted. The top hose can be moved around to accomodate differecnt sizes of wood. Hope this helps. PS, included with are fittings which stick to the side of the saw, but the fittings don't stick well enough, that is why the tie down straps. Jerry

Another way that helps a lot to find the drilled hole on the bottom of the pattern is to take a pencil and twirl it while it is inserted in the bottom of the drilled holes. You won't believe how much easier it is to find the hole that way. Dick heppnerguy

Being a fairly new scroller I think it's something we all struggle with when we start. I've had times where it's took me longer to thread the blade than cut the hole

Steve's Scroll saw Workshop was the first place I came across when I became interested in scrolling as a hobby. I have made quite a few of Steve's patterns and as Jim McDonald says above have learned much from him. These 2 patterns were my first attempts at using more than 1 layer of wood and although I still have much to learn, I was quite happy with the results.

well...a little to the right.

It's because none of us are 12. Kids get it.