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I made the army veteran 3D project but didn’t like the way only 2 sides were readable, so what I did was use 1/4 Baltic birch ply and made the 4 sides (stack cut) then cut a 45 degree angle which made it an box effect, I put a solid wood piece painted olive green inside the box and makes a great paper weight, used pegas 2/0 super skip blades, thx RJ

A couple of other things you might want to consider for comfort is the height of your scroll saw table in relation to you seat and how your body is positioned when you are working. About a year ago I noticed I was getting a lot of back pain if I scrolled for more than an hour or so. It was because I was hunched over in an unnatural position as I was working. I had to raise my saw about 1.5 inches and tilt the saw toward me about 10 degrees. Now when I sit at my saw I can lay my forearms flat on my table in a very natural position and see what I am doing without any bend in my neck or back.

Added a backer board spray painted black for the shepherd, stained it and added danish oil.. The owl face is just coated in danish oil over raw birch. I don't have a real home for them yet, just put them anywhere for now.

3 stack 1/8" BB, 330 cuts using FD Ultra reverse. ( template included for anyone who might want it.)

I made the stand so that it tilts 15° . The front of the table is just about 10" above the chair seat. It's nice and comfortable. Don't need to crane my neck or stoop over.

We are all also glad you joined our family, (as we like to prefer this group as) too Dick heppnerguy

Marie, when you find a chair that is comfortable for your bottom. let me know. I have been following this post with interest. I have a stool that is not too comfortable and after a couple of hours of scrolling I have to quit for a while. I have a bad back with spinal stenosis and scoliosis. I have been looking if a cushion is available to ease the pain, but there are so many options and they are all the best, how do you choose. I'm certain you know in your search they are all the best. I wish you luck in your search. Jerry

Goodness it's hard for me to express to non-scrollers just how satisfying this craft is to me. Finished this mounted standup puzzle today. 1 inch thick oak stair tread offcuts from someone's curb, mounted with epoxied doweling to a scrap walnut base. Used the angle cutting feature of our jet saw to cut the walnut at a 10 degree angle for visual interest. The Pegas 7R blade handled the cutting nicely with virtually no need for sanding. One of our daughters raises heritage breed hogs on her and her husband's small farm and she just loves the critters. Expect this will join the stuff on her desk at the local Agricultural Extension Office. I plan to draw up more hogs, some goats, sheep, chickens and other farm critters to turn into mounted standup puzzles for gifts as I go. Thanks for looking folks. Don.

Jerry, I will let you know. I am a physical therapist and I have taught ergonomic so I am hoping I can figure it out. I do like @Gene Howe set up and @Davevand suggestions. I will let you know what I think of Dave Monk's chair...

I did did this with a 26" hawk. I had to take the legs off to fit in my car. No truck needed.

I inherited my husbands old shop chair he used when reloading. He prefers a tall stool now as his bench is higher than it was. So now I have arm rests, wheels and height adjustments I can play with. Works pretty good but I will eventually upgrade to something with a more comfortable seat. The wheels are really nice but can be fussy when I don't sweep regularly, which I don't. haha I like the information on this post with everyone's suggestions and preferences. Gives me ideas.....

to have alcohol a solid so the scroll saw can cut it takes quite a bit of coldness. At 32 deg alcohol does not freeze. Then after you cut into a chair it be a bit cold to sit on. I know I am being dumb..... engineer.

Have you tried cutting out alcohol?

Yep, I know what you mean, I have a bar stool that starts swaying every once in a while..so bad I fall off once in a while and can't get up!

Thank you to all who have provided info and pictures of the chair/stools that you are using. I decided on the one that @Dave Monk uses... Who knows, maybe it will give me a boost toward being the artist scroller he is! Thanks again

Hey Everyone! In this scroll saw project video, we make a cool guitar man design by Steve Good. It uses 1/4 inch material and this project would be great to make and give to music lovers! Music is the international language! Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

I think I like the plain wood the best, but when I do a color fill. I'm like a kid waiting on Christmas. It's hard for me to wait to find out how whatever new combination of colors and metallic powders that I used comes out. The colors in this one reminds me of Vincent Van Gogh's, The Starry Night because of its mix of highlights along with the blues and greens. This one surprised me.

Perusing Craigslist and found a like new Hawk for $350. It's a good five hour drive, 250 miles one way. Wondering if it's worth it. My truck gets about 10 MPG. 50 gallon of gas at $4.00 per. Probably not.

Well all of the painting and glue up are done, plus I have 2 coats of Lacquer on them. This weekend I will wood burn my signature and the date, then I will install the hanger brackets. From then on they will have time to let the finish cure and the smell of the Lacquer disappear before I give them to the recipients that I have chosen. Dick

Thank you. This frame I simply clear coated using a satin finish Krylon spray. When I run out of frames, I typically make a dozen of each common size at a time (11 x 14, 8 1/2 x 11. and 5 x 7). That way it saves set up time. I don't glue framed projects to the backer or to the frame and put most detailed fretwork under glass. My thought is that if anyone wants to change the color of the backer at some point they will be able to.

Looks great. You did an excellent job. Marg

She bought me the Pegas 21, all the improvements from my 30 year old machine is so awesome.

That's awesome! You do good work and yours is more detailed than mine. As you can see, I used a lot of those curves and loops and smoothed it all out so I could do a color fill.

Great job!

The seat I use is a hybrid. The seat came from this chair https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/vibrant-drafting-stool-with-tractor-seat?cm_vc=-10005 the bottom came from this chair https://www.harborfreight.com/biker-style-pneumatic-roller-seat-63756.html The tractor seat is very comfortable to sit on but the bottom ring broke fairly quickly. The motorcycle seat was very uncomfortable for me to sit on (not sure if that changed after my hydrocele surgery). So I took the tops off and switched them, before putting the top back on the chair I added a plywood platform that fits on the foot ring (for the foot switch). The chair seat is tall enough to use with the factory stand that came with the Hegner, the foot switch is a comfortable height from the seat ( the switch on the floor is too far to reach comfortably ). I don't expect you to buy two new chairs to get one that works, just showing how to get creative with solutions

Wow! It looks like it will jump out of the picture! Awesome job

awesome job

How about a boat cushion. It’s a floatation piece with 2 handles. About 14” square, 2” thick. Walmart has them For $11.00. I use one with my old fashioned wooden drafting chair.

Wow, I really like that. I love the thickness of the wood. Well done!

Okay, I almost wasn't going to post this since it is just a scrolled heart, nothing fancy but tricky inlaying it in there. I did inlay a few on cutting boards (with the help of you folks) and now I tried it on a box. Nothing fantastic like all the wonderful scroll work that everyone puts on here, but its a start for me. This is now my second box I have ever made. I kind of like boxes. But hope to move on to other scrolling adventures and move from hearts . The wood is Spalted Hackberry and walnut. I had a challenge with the mortise lock but it does work and actually I need help putting hinges on and keeping them level for the next time I make another box...they are a bit wonky but at least they do work.

I do ponder at times, but most of the time I just stand up and walk around to give my bottom a break, so a back rest might be nice....

This is my chair for scrolling.

This is a pattern I made and cut on 1/4-inch Maple ply. The face of the plywood delaminated in a couple areas so I decided to paint the piece. The paint is water color. I finished with a Minwax natural stain and 4-coats of Polyacrylic with light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper between coats. I cut the frame from picture frame stock I had on hand. The piece is 13X14. The pattern is in the Village library.

Thanks Dick! I very much appreciate that! I picked the colors of the snowman,, but the wife did the painting. I do not like to paint.

Finally finished this beautiful Russ Beard Pattern, the frame is home made and I used the Shou Sugi Ban or Yakisugi effect which is a hundred year old Japanese technique that brings out the pattern of the wood. Applied three coats of Danish Oil and two coats Matt Clear Varnish. Staying in South Africa I have had the pleasure of photographing and sitting watch these animals now I’m cutting them. I will be using this technique on all my my fire wildlife cuttings

I made this for my older son. It took my 2 days but i hope it is good now..

Finished this beautiful pattern by Russ Beard, the frame is home made using Malaysian Meranti, applied three coats of Danish Oil and two coats Matt Clear Varnish and fitted with Non Reflective Plexiglass. Very happy with the finish and so is my granddaughter who will be hanging on her wall this afternoon.

I was looking at patterns on ETSY and ran across this ship. I think these paddle wheelers are so cool and always enjoy it when I see one cruising a river. I immediately knew I needed to get this pattern and cut it. So I bought this pattern for just over $4 and set about seeing how I was going to cut it and how. I have to say, I did do a little bit of changes on the pattern as I cut it because I did not like everything about it but I wanted to keep it as close to the original as I could out of respect for the pattern maker. I really did not understand what the strange shapes on the windows were and decided not to cut everyone of them but did most of the them. Because I had so many comments about the frame I used on the recent moose pattern I cut, I decided to try and make the frame match the object within it. I decided to groove the frame on my router and insert a rope in the groove. My thinking on this was the connection of an anchor and anchor rope. The next problem I had was where the rope ends met at the bottom of the frame so I decided to cut me an anchor to help cover the rope connection. I was going to make my anchor outline of a different color for accent but really was not satisfied with the look so I left them the same color. I cut this with a #3 MGT Pegas blade on a 3/8 BB Ply. I put a shellac finish on the frame and just waxed the surface of the rest of the project. I have to say that I am not completely satisfied with the end results and if I ever make another one of these I think I would not put the rope in the frame and I would cut all the windows in their natural shape and forget whatever is going on in them, in the pattern. Dick heppnerguy

I wanted a Captain America hitch cover and since they cost around $60 and lots of reviews I read said they rust pretty quickly I decided to have some fun making my own. I put 4 coats of spar urethane on it. When it wears out I'll be ready to make a different one.

You are way too creative for my brain. Love all your ideas. Hope I can remember even one of them, sure would help if I could. Dick heppnerguy

Made from cherry.

I hold small parts by drilling a small hole that will not be seen after assembly and inserting a dowel, toothpick, or skewer to make a handle. If I have trouble getting the handle tight enough, I will add a bit of glue and cut it off flush when I am done. For heavier items, I hold the handle with long-nosed locking pliers. Wheels on a stick. Plastic spring clamps work for some things. My pointed Dowel collection. Truck body on a stick. This one is glued in and cut flush after painting. Fenders on a stick. Halloween on a stick.

Use spray cans because they are fun. After they are empty, I save them for when my Grandson comes, we shoot them with a pellet rifle, watch them fly around when hit. Them we retrieve the marble inside, if there is one and add them to my glass coke bottle I store them in. Now it is time to throw the can away. Sorry I know, no help. I like using an eye screw, the hole would be small enough to fill and a quick spray over.

Just finished this leopard piece. I'm planning to donate it to The Farmer's House for their auction. This took about 15 hours to cut and about 1 hour to design the pattern. It's 11 x 14 x 1/8 inches Baltic Birch ply. Cut with Pegas spiral blades.

Continuning with my Miniture kick that I am on I found these old buildings I had made years back when I had my HO scale railroad,forgot I had them. So I decided to cut the doors out and make some Garages for Hot Wheels I found some old signage online cut a pasted them on the sides, The Logo is hand painted. Hot Wheels not Nascar. I will be going to the Flea Market in the A.M. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I cut this time-intensive piece this week. Pattern by me. 8x10x1/4 inch Baltic birch ply.

Old barn design from Judy Gale Roberts. The pattern is in one of her Fine Line Design books. I made it from red oak and haven't started the sanding and finish yet.

Dang simple and effective, thanks Dick I'm going to try this one.

The one problem I ran into was when I did the 45 degrees, my chop saw wouldn't cut to the very bottom of the wood, so that is why I had to take it to the bandsaw so I could flip it around and cut again the last bit. So I actually, did the first 45 degree, ran to the band saw cut off most of the excess that the miter saw didn't and then back to the miter saw...Kind of goofy, but it worked. If you find a better way, please let me know.

Gene, Well, I kind of figured I wanted the dovetails to be on both sides, so I took small scraps of walnut, cut them to the thickness of the Hackberry, made a dovetail like I always do (I can't remember what they are called, "half blind dovetails" maybe?") took that piece to the bandsaw and cut off most of what was left of the walnut (carefully), then took it to the chop saw and cut that at a 45 degrees, did it again until I did it 8 times for 4 pieces of Hackberry (2 on each side) than I glued it all together and by golly it worked! I tried it on 1/2 inch thickness the first time and I thought it too thin. This is just under 3/4" and it was less scary. hope that makes sense.