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Took some careful cutting but I got all the letters cut and out in one piece!

Took a week off from scroll sawing to make frames that I have been putting off doing. The Leopard and the Cheetah is Russ Beard Patterns ( the Cheetah is from my own stock of photos staying in South Africa I visited various Wildlife Park two to three times a year and built up quite a stock, I sent the Cheetah to Russ and he was kind enough to make a pattern for me.) the Dragon is also a Russ Beard pattern from the series The Game of Thrones. With the wildlife cuts I stuck to the Shou Sugi Ban techniques because it’s part of Africa. The Dragon frame is a Black epoxy Stain that came out quite well, all in all I’m happy with all of them, cut on 1/8” Baltic Birch Plywood.

Added a backer board spray painted black for the shepherd, stained it and added danish oil.. The owl face is just coated in danish oil over raw birch. I don't have a real home for them yet, just put them anywhere for now.

The round blade holders are enough for me to say no. Once you have crawled around the floor looking for one that went flying, you will understand why.

@OCtoolguy It's what I don't see , I don't see holes in the accessory arm for the "Ultra" blade holder to set in to change the blade.. The Ultra saws blade holders have a small roll pin to go through then and they're notched out so when you place the holder into the hole ( that's not on this saw ) on the accessory arm the notch rest on top of the arm so you can loosen the thumb screw to change the blade. Another give away is the lack of a line-loc flexible air blower tube.. but a lot of those older saws had been upgraded to the line-loc so the lack of holes in the accessory arm is a dead give away that it's a old saw. Everything from 1996 ( Ultra and newer ) to the current BM series have those holes in the arm to hold the blade clamp for changing blades..

Had a friend request a couple of verses. After some back and forth, I decided it would be best to make it a two piece project. Cut from 1/2" Red Oak. The top one is 8 X 14 inches and the lower one is 5 x 14. My design using Inkscape.

It turned out like this., You can see through the candle but not the words.

I bought one like this one at an estate sale for $65 a few years back and I was so excited to get it. After I had it for about a year I gave it to my daughter, who still has it and it is still running great. I use it occasionally when I am in Oregon but it is a real pain to use do to the task of changing the blades and adjusting the tension. I would not buy it if I had it to do all over again. Dick heppnerguy

I actually liked my old saw with the round clamps... Kinda wish I had kept it. I never had a problem with the holder going MIA once I put a new spring clip on.. I know you replaced yours or tried to but it didn't work for you. Kind of feel something isn't right with your saws set up but I'm not there or the one running it so I can't say for sure. I believe your saw is older than the one I had and maybe the position of where the clip mounts to the arm changed or something over the few years difference.. I'm not sure but I never had the holder go to the floor after replacing the worn out clip. I know Hawk made A LOT of changes and upgrades throughout the years.. unlike Hegner who studied their design and fine tuned it before sending them out to customers / users.. Hawk sold what they came up with and took feedback from the users and improved along the way. Unfortunately Bushton doesn't seem to like criticism and think they have built the best saw in the world and it's your problem if the saw isn't exactly how you think it should be. There are things they took away from the new saws that the old saws had and I think it wasn't a improvement.. Probably the biggest pitfall of the new Hawk is they did away with the "soft start" motors.. you hit the pedal and it's instant on at your speed setting which jerks the saw and is a lot of un-needed stress on a blade. I don't have a issue with mine but I could see it being a problem with small blades.. Probably not a great saw if you typically use real small blades.

I went back and looked after I commented and saw those holes were missing but left my comment to see if there was something else.

I've talked to a few others with same model saw and they are all that way even the current ones.. some of the others also expressed to Hawk about the issue and got the same basic answer. They offered to let me return it, I chose to keep it as it's not an issue with larger blades like I use the majority of the time, and with the less aggressive cutting you don't need as small a blade like you would with a Excalibur.. That is unless you need a specific fine detail in the pattern itself.. I know one person that also chose to keep it and one that actually took the return option. It's a great saw, just the so called soft start was what I was used to with the older saws, I've grown used to the saw the way it is.. The 3-4 people I know all said that the ad on the site is misleading about having a soft start, I agree with them.. Even suggested they remove it from the site.. maybe they have now but they didn't change it for a long time. They have upgraded their outdated site to show what parts are in inventory and what isn't etc.. They have nice saws but man the website, manuals, and customer service is not the best, though they have improved on customer service too some but I haven't dealt with them much since I don't really need any parts etc.. EDIT: No my Hawk wasn't a first of them, that was the Excalibur being one of the first made from china saws..

You must have had the very old 12 -20 inch saw that didn't have the front tension lever? Shouldn't have to adjust it but one time on the little newer saws.. One in the picture has up front tension. Like I say many times, they all look close to the same but really big improvements on newer ones.

Kevin, why don't you make them a deal. Tell them you will pay for a new controller but if it solves your problem they have to refund your money. Or something along those lines. It sounds to me like you got a lemon. If I recall yours was one of the first off the line so whatever the problem might be, they have solved it. But yours is still bad. I wouldn't take no for an answer.

I think the best one is probably the G4, that said I don't have personal experience with one.. but I've talked to others that say they have the "soft start".. I really like the Ultra too. Those two are probably the best made saws Hawk made.. BM series are nice saws, I just don't like that instant on. I called Bushton to ask about the soft start and I think they confused it with delayed start. ( ie the soft start feature of the older saws is just that, you hit the pedal and it "ramps up to speed slowly" ) I asked them about it because they're advertised as having soft start. Their words to me was yes it's soft start, so I said well something wrong with mine then because when I hit the switch its on at instant speed that I have the dial set at. Then they back peddled and said well it's soft start but it's just a quick delay of milliseconds that you hardly even notice, I said okay but with small blades it breaks the blades.. They say they recommend turning the saw on at a slower speed and the manually ramping up to the desired speed.. That's what soft start is supposed to do, I like the saw and not a issue for me since I don't use real small blades often and if I do I use a different saw. But it could be a problem for some folks that mainly use small blades or only have the option for one saw to use.

Fragile for sure, beautiful work.

That right there is some great scrolling!

Latest piece. Solid Cherry cut with #3 mg blade. Finished with a coat of shellac then beeswax/mineral oil. I do not remember where I got the pattern

These turned out great, Jim. I really love your font.

Those are beautiful Jim. Jerry

Beautiful design and cutting, RJ

You certainly aced this project. Great scrolling effort Dick heppnerguy

So what you are saying Kevin is the 226 Ultra and the GM series are the best Hawks to own? I know that the 226 Ultra that I had was a great saw. It was just too big for my shop. I hated to sell it.

My Mom can't see the owl face either. It is clear as day for me though. Maybe the pattern below will help? It was a free pattern I got a while back, can't remember from where, but I sure do love it! The shepherd is a Russ Beard pattern. He nailed it for sure. Looks just like my boy.

It’s a Black Epoxy Stain that’s made locally in South Africa it’s a water proof sealant that can be used indoors or out doors and is a water based product, first time trying it, happy with the end result.

Gene, I am with you on the "Owl" face! I just can't see it as such! The German shepherd is a great cut! Erv

That Shepherd is really fine work! But, for the life of me, I can't make out the owl. Great cutting, though . I guess my visual closure abilities are declining with age...along with other abilities and parts.

Like everyone says...Excelent Cutting. But, just curious, WHY? Were you just testing yourself or do you have a need for the cut out words?

This is what I have. I bought it because of the seat height range. I have saws and a workbench that all have different heights.

Hi Barb and Rolf Both ideas I will try as i have not tried to focus but managed on what I have done. This one is another story. I am going to learn on this project some how. Rolf please can you explain your method a bit if you can as it seems a answer some questions Barbara

Excellent work.

Extremely well done cutting looks top notch.

Thank you all for the warm welcome. I can see I need a lot more time on cutting, LOL. Maybe it's my shaky hands, but I think it's just I'm not totally comfortable quite yet. I'll keep practicing and I will not hesitate to ask when I need some help.

Perfect. Marg

Goodness it's hard for me to express to non-scrollers just how satisfying this craft is to me. Finished this mounted standup puzzle today. 1 inch thick oak stair tread offcuts from someone's curb, mounted with epoxied doweling to a scrap walnut base. Used the angle cutting feature of our jet saw to cut the walnut at a 10 degree angle for visual interest. The Pegas 7R blade handled the cutting nicely with virtually no need for sanding. One of our daughters raises heritage breed hogs on her and her husband's small farm and she just loves the critters. Expect this will join the stuff on her desk at the local Agricultural Extension Office. I plan to draw up more hogs, some goats, sheep, chickens and other farm critters to turn into mounted standup puzzles for gifts as I go. Thanks for looking folks. Don.

Another sign of the Master at work. Fantastic job, Tbow.

You have done a beautiful job, excellent cutting, RJ

Careful cutting is right. Looks great.

3 stack 1/8" BB, 330 cuts using FD Ultra reverse. ( template included for anyone who might want it.)

Jess, I really like how you did the eyes on your dog! Nice!

Yeah, Hawk had a lot of different models over the years and some of them aren't worth as a boat anchor, LOL I see way to often people saying those old single speed saws are worth $500+ just because it has the Hawk name and is orange in color.. Unless you really know what you're looking at they all "look" the same at a glance..

Nicely done, Don. I'm not really into puzzles but I really like this one. Guess it is the thickness of the wood and the expertise of the artist.

A perfect job on another beautifully done pattern as well. I have yet to find one of your patterns that I would not wish to cut myself Dick heppnerguy

Thought I'd give it to her unassembled and let her wonder what the heck I made her. Grin. make her work for it. Thank you for the kind words. Don.

Nice work. I’m sure your daughter will love adding it to her desk.

very well done.

I find, when cutting circles, to cover (with my hand) part of the lines. That way, I am focused on what is right there and not looking too far ahead. I hope this makes sense. Barbara, the other one!

What tools do you have to work with? Scroll saw and a router, what else? There are many solutions for making a perfect circle. I made this so that all of my gears on a clock were perfectly round and centered.

I was finally able to finish the framing of these pieces. The tractor is the second stack cut of the one I painted and posted earlier. This one is 1/4-inch Birch stained Ipswich Pine as well as the Pine frame. The backer is sanded pine painted black. The two barn pieces are from Jim Blume's Americana series. This pattern is Americana 10, Long Forgotten. The 1/4-inch Oak piece is stained Minwax Natural and the frame is stained Ipswich Pine. The other piece is 1/4-inch Birch stained Ipswich Pine and the Pine frame is stained Natural. All three were sprayed with 4-coats of Polyacrylic lightly sanded with 600 grit sandpaper between coats. Thanks, Jim, for a great pattern!

All very very nice. I really like the use of the oversized backers to create the matt-like inside frame. The frames are all very well done with nice neat and tight corner miters. The natural rustic frames go very well with the cuttings. If and when you make frames for, say "less rustic" subjects, if you buy the little more pricy premium pine found in Lowes or HD, you can avoid knots that would detract from a less rustic frame. This is especially true if you plan to piant the frames as it is impossible to hide the knots even with paint. I comb through the wood bin to find the clearest boards I can find for my frames. And I buy the widest boards (min 8" but preferably 12") that I rip down to 1 3/4" wide sticks. It is the most economical way if you plan to make a lot of frames.

Dick, Thank you for asking. Since we are a commercial orchard/gardens we are pretty crazy this time of year. But when I venture down to Paul's neck of the woods I will definitely look him up ....if he still wants me to... I have really enjoyed everyone on here. I have tried quite a few scrolling pictures but have not been satisfied with them enough to show them on here...soon I hope, though.