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Just having "fan". Patterns from The Book of Fans - designs for stained glass by Leslie Sharp. Playing around with segmentation and adding shims for height. The boat is coloured with Unicorn Spit and coated with Osmo satin finish. The tulips are acrylic paint and coated with beeswax butter. Not sure what wood the boat is. Tulips cut from red oak. Both cut with #1 MG blade.

Had a friend request a couple of verses. After some back and forth, I decided it would be best to make it a two piece project. Cut from 1/2" Red Oak. The top one is 8 X 14 inches and the lower one is 5 x 14. My design using Inkscape.

My new color fill wolf. I made this one from some walnut that me and my best friend milled in 1998. The design for the wolf came from one of Judy Gale Roberts Fine Line Design fretwork books.

Took some careful cutting but I got all the letters cut and out in one piece!

Took a week off from scroll sawing to make frames that I have been putting off doing. The Leopard and the Cheetah is Russ Beard Patterns ( the Cheetah is from my own stock of photos staying in South Africa I visited various Wildlife Park two to three times a year and built up quite a stock, I sent the Cheetah to Russ and he was kind enough to make a pattern for me.) the Dragon is also a Russ Beard pattern from the series The Game of Thrones. With the wildlife cuts I stuck to the Shou Sugi Ban techniques because it’s part of Africa. The Dragon frame is a Black epoxy Stain that came out quite well, all in all I’m happy with all of them, cut on 1/8” Baltic Birch Plywood.

Frank, I like to try to test myself sometimes. It is always fun to see if you can make it through a project with no slips. I ended up saving the letters, staining them black and then inserting them back into their perspective holes, slightly indented.

Barbara have you ever reached out to Sue Mey, another South African, to see where she gets her supplies and wood? Sue is a very active designer. She can be contacted through this link: Contact Me (scrollsawartist.com)

A recent cut (approx 11" x 8") for a local football club logo (soccer to most of you guys) - Aston Villa Football Club, currently riding quite high in the English Premier League

I'm been retired for the last 5 years, after working as a master carpenter for 48 years. I've had a Dewalt scroll saw for over 30 years, used it now and then. Was using it last month for a project and my wife tells me I really need a new saw. Mine is the old style of attaching blades. So long story short she bought me one Wow, what a difference in every aspect. I have some questions, but they will come latter. I am not a scroll saw professional, I consider myself an amateur in this field, LOL. But, it's fun. Catch you in the forum Robert

Added a backer board spray painted black for the shepherd, stained it and added danish oil.. The owl face is just coated in danish oil over raw birch. I don't have a real home for them yet, just put them anywhere for now.

I bought the Ridgid right after it came out! It’s been more than 15 years and is still going strong.

Another fine job, and I don't mind the LP's gives it style, RJ

Just gorgeous, Barb. Your choice of stands is inspired. And, your painting is superb. Your cutting ain't too shabby neither.

God is GOOD!! Amen!!!!!!!

Now seeing the pattern it is there! I have some patterns that really look good until I cut them and than it was difficult to determine what the cutting was supposed to be! You did a great job on both cuttings and seeing an owl facing that way is very unusual! Nearly all owl patterns, pictures, are facing toward you as they are in the wild! Erv

Intarsia Scroll Saw Woodworking Books & DVD's - intarsia.com

Nice picture, and I had never heard of JGR "Fine Lines Before Designs". I have spent a lot of time looking at her site and art and never seen it mentioned.

I like your work and this piece is very nice. However, at first view I lost the work as my eyes went directly to the LP's in the bacground. I know I'm being picky, as I have been with others, but why in the world would you photograph such a nice piece in front of a cluttered bacground like this. This forum is, IMHO, a place to proudly share "your work" with your piers and the photos used should do that. Again , in my opinion, the background should be very neautral and the photo cropped so the work is shown up-close for all to appreciate. If you are offended so be it, but once again, this is simply my opinion which I stand behind and make no apoligies.

I made this jig when I was asked to do a wooden gear clock project for SSWWC magazine. All of the gears have to be precise. I cut the teeth leaving the tips of the teeth long and then set them on the disk sander. The distance from center to disk is adjustable and the slowly rotated the gear sanding off the tips.. This is only good if you can put a hole in the center of your circle. For just free handing a circle, it gets easier with practice, cut just outside the line and if you have a disk sander carefully sand to the line. Barbara also makes a good point, look just ahead of where your cutting, kind of like driving. Be aware, if you are cutting natural wood the blade likes to follow the grain as you transition from cross to strait grain.

There are other things I don't like about "My" old two-speed 226 Hawk besides the round blade holder. I used this saw for a long time before I got my Excalibur EX21. Now it is only used for a backup, and I am actively looking for a used replacement. Reaching the back of the saw to release the blade tension. The blade mounting system is a pain to use. I need a tool to hold the top clamp in place. If I forget to use the tool, the blade will not be mounted correctly. If I forget to take the tool off, it goes flying. I don't like the aluminum table top. That is a personal preference, but I prefer steel or cast iron. If I change blade sizes, I have to adjust the tension. If I forget and it is a smaller blade, it will likely break the blade shortly after the saw starts. By comparison, the Excalibur EX-21: It is easy to tension once you have it set up correctly. Flip the front lever, and done. Changing blades is simple and fast. It has a steel table, and other parts are also steel allowing me to position lights or any other magnetic thing just about anywhere. The blade holders don't come off. Internal cuts are quick and easy. I never heed to crawl around the floor looking for dropped parts. I can change blades to a different size without adjustment. I did change the clip to the newer style. It is plastic with ears on the side. If the blade breaks, the bottom blade clamp will drop almost every time. Usually, the clamp remains on the saw under the table. The older metal clamp drops the clamp a lot less, but when it does, it is on the floor somewhere and rarely on the saw. I have three different clamps for the hawk. Two will not work with the plastic holder because they are too small. The larger one works with both the plastic and the steel holder. The brass part is removable.

It turned out like this., You can see through the candle but not the words.

Frank the are Imported Peterboro Board I think from the UK not sure, it’s a cream textured board, I’m afraid the iPhone camera just does not do them Justice.

The round blade holders are enough for me to say no. Once you have crawled around the floor looking for one that went flying, you will understand why.

3 stack 1/8" BB, 330 cuts using FD Ultra reverse. ( template included for anyone who might want it.)

I made the army veteran 3D project but didn’t like the way only 2 sides were readable, so what I did was use 1/4 Baltic birch ply and made the 4 sides (stack cut) then cut a 45 degree angle which made it an box effect, I put a solid wood piece painted olive green inside the box and makes a great paper weight, used pegas 2/0 super skip blades, thx RJ

Yeah, Hawk had a lot of different models over the years and some of them aren't worth as a boat anchor, LOL I see way to often people saying those old single speed saws are worth $500+ just because it has the Hawk name and is orange in color.. Unless you really know what you're looking at they all "look" the same at a glance..

It pretty much depends on which Hawk it is. We need mor info to make an informed suggestion. Can you supply the ad?

Thank you. This frame I simply clear coated using a satin finish Krylon spray. When I run out of frames, I typically make a dozen of each common size at a time (11 x 14, 8 1/2 x 11. and 5 x 7). That way it saves set up time. I don't glue framed projects to the backer or to the frame and put most detailed fretwork under glass. My thought is that if anyone wants to change the color of the backer at some point they will be able to.

Okay, I almost wasn't going to post this since it is just a scrolled heart, nothing fancy but tricky inlaying it in there. I did inlay a few on cutting boards (with the help of you folks) and now I tried it on a box. Nothing fantastic like all the wonderful scroll work that everyone puts on here, but its a start for me. This is now my second box I have ever made. I kind of like boxes. But hope to move on to other scrolling adventures and move from hearts . The wood is Spalted Hackberry and walnut. I had a challenge with the mortise lock but it does work and actually I need help putting hinges on and keeping them level for the next time I make another box...they are a bit wonky but at least they do work.

Well if you come up with a way that won't break either of our banks just let us know what you need. We can put blades in a birthday card or something like it. Other stuff might being more creative but we can getter done!

Hi everyone, I made 16 of these trinket boxes for my grandkids. This is Sheila Landry designs. There about 5 inch round and about 2 1/2 deep. You can make them as deep as you want by adding more rings. They took a while to do all of them but I like the results. Now my other problem I have is what can I make with all the scrap circles. There walnut and curly maple 3/8 thick. Any ideas.

Very well done, and all your patterns and cutting are. Even if a person doesn't alway use spiral blades, I think knowing how to use then is worth while just for cutting areas like the nose and ears. Don't want to start the spiral blade gantlet again, but they surely have their uses.

What the world needs more of.