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Coffee or tea cup coaster for workshop. Or sometimes can be used as a beer coaster, not very often. Made with fretsaw, Antilope #2 blades. An attempt to use celtic cross design.

I wasn't completely happy with the first Michael J Fox cutting I did so I did it again and added the logo from his Parkinson's Disease Foundation. “There's the stuff you plan — the stuff you work toward, the stuff you aspire to, your desires and wishes. And then there's things that just happen. And the things that just happen are usually of more intricate design and a higher purpose.” Michael J Fox

My latest project is ready for the Lacquer. It’s a Wedding Gift for my Grandson and his Fiancé. They are going to be married in September, so I am ahead of schedule! It’s made out of Walnut, Maple and White Oak and it’s a Steve Good design. It's also 2 sided so that they can use it as a Table Centerpiece. Dick

Finally got these done. Stack cut, 3 layers, 5/16" thick each. #1 Polar blades throughout, 1 layer (top) oak 2 lower layers walnut, one dip of BLO working on the shellac coat to shine them up. 16 hrs total cutting (5 hrs and 20 minutes each basket). Cutting time for a single basket, including double stacking the sides, ends and lids, was 7 hrs. The size is 4 1/2" wide, 8" tall, 9 1/2" long, a total of 331 holes. The pattern is from the book "Classic Fretwork Scroll Saw Patterns" by Patrick Spielman & James Reidle. I'm lazy and hate messing up the finish because of glue, so these are all pinned joints. There is no glue used in these. pins are toothpicks 5/64 hole.

My latest scroll saw wood art piece. This one is not my pattern, but I don't know who's it is. I cut this because I like the picture, and because I grew up learning to drive in a pickup truck just like this one.

A couple of quick cuts. The squirrel I am trying to decide if I want to leave unpainted or go ahead and paint him and the oak leaf. Thoughts!!

I would vote to paint it too.... Something colorful then you can add it to Travis's "Color challenge"....

I think Minwax is still readily available. Really any furniture paste wax will do the trick. Just avoid car waxes that contain silicone.

I know there are many good paste waxes out there but I use Trewax paste wax. It is made of Brazilian carnuba wax which is the hardest natural wax out there. The folks who sell high-end bronze fountains and statues highly recommend it. So I use it on my machines also and I have absolutely no rust and everything slides nicely on it. Put it on, let it dry and buff it off...

I really haven't seen that many Bronson movies but he made a cool addition to my cowboy wall.

Starting a new thread so as to not highjack the other one. What wax can we use next to protect our machines, now that Johnson & Johnson no longer makes/sells their product. My can of J&J is running low.

Great job. Bad things happen to really good people.

Here are a couple of updated pictures. I went ahead and painted the squirrel. I still have to glue it to the backer and spray sealer on it.

awesome job

nice job

Really well done they will love it for sure.

Lovely job you did on the gift, I'm sure they will love it! Thanks for showing, Bob

Great work Charlie! You've done some great actors there on your wall, Thank you for posting, Bob

Beautiful piece, RJ

A documentary is coming out about him May 12th. Should be really good.

The Parkinson's logo was a nice touch. I know he has suffered with Parkinsons for many years. Recently saw an interview with him, I think it was on Sunday morning show on CBS. It was sad, but he is trying everything he can to get the message out there. Jerry

I'd guess 98% of everything I've cut has been using Baltic Birch - mostly 1/4" with 1/8" second runner up and the rest 1/2". And about 98% of the patterns have been Steve Good patterns (thanks Steve). The wood has a uniform color. Cut easily, takes stain and finishes well. Is locally available in various sizes, compared to hardwood. The quality is better than other plywood available at the box stores (HD/Lowes). That's my 2 pennies worth.

Very nice, and isn't that a Swedish knife, I can't remember the name for them now.

I dont see the spaghetti noodles? Paint ? Vien with scrollsaw? This post is just to be fun only. I hope no offense taken. Sometimes you have to ignore Me. Me. Mark Eason

Ditto!

Me neither, but if I could I would paint it.

I can't paint worth a hoot

I'd paint it

I run my saw as fast as it will go except when I cut thin stock such as 1/4-inch plywood. This may be because I used as single speed saw for years and it is what I am used to. I would use a finer blade with the single-speed saw if the cut was too aggressive.

Wow, you really captured him....I love your cowboy wall! What a great idea I always liked Jack Elam, too. In case you want to add another to your wall...

I find the easiest way to find something that drops is to drop something else. Does it always work, no, but if you find the second thing you have the feeling of accomplishment

I used to burn edges sometimes while cutting Cherry mainly, and used to be terrible at it with Cherry until I learned to let the blade do the cutting... however since I switched from FD blades to Pegas MGT blades I have not ever had the issue.. I do tend to "like" to cut faster than slower.. not because I'm in a hurry to get products made, I'm just not one to like to watch paint dry so to speak, LOL. Everyone has their desired comfort methods and mine is cutting with the saw running pretty fast.. around 1500 ish strokes per min. so with the Excalibur it runs full speed on the dial.

When you are cutting with a new blade and at the fastest possible cutting rate without burning the wood, as the blade dulls you will begin seeing burning of the edges of the cut. You can slow the blade speed a little or wax the blade sides to stop this burning, or change to a new sharp blade. When this happens and you haven't cut very far, you can apply wax to the sides of the blade and it won't burn the wood any more, until it wears off this wax coating, but keep in mind that the blade is getting more dull. When you can no longer prevent the blade from burning at the desired cutting speed even by adding wax you have 2 choices, slow the cutting speed or replace the blade. Adding the wax to the blade lets you keep using the blade much longer before it's so dull that replacement becomes necessary. I rarely replace broken blades. I usually get tired of nursing blades because they have become too dull. Blades are cheap, at about $0.25 US per blade. Isn't the quality of your project worth changing dull blades before they become so dull that they reduce the quality of your project? With an old candle or small piece of paraffin in hand while cutting, waxing the blade frequently becomes 2nd nature and you will wax the blade every few inches of cut. It does make a difference. How fussy you are about burn marks will help decide how often you wax the blade. I wax the table of my saws and also brush it onto the gears and ways of my table saws using an old toothbrush. The surface forms a dry crust that sawdust won't stick to, but the wax will continue lubricating the saw for a very long time. I use Johnsons or Butcher's Paste Wax on the tables frequently when cutting, to keep the work sliding easily. When it doesn't slide easily I can make errors, so I add a new coat of wax frequently. Don't ever use Automotive waxes in your woodshop. Most contain silicone and silicone on your wood projects will resist stain and finishes, leaving what is called "Fish Eyes" in your finishing steps where the stain or finish will refuse to adhere to the project wood wherever the Silicone is. Silicone containing products are banned from my woodshop and have been for over 50 years. They are kept in my garage almost 250 ft from my woodshop. They make cars shine very nicely, but are a death sentence to woodworking finishes. Keep your auto waxes far separated from your woodworking. Charley

I use the 1/4 BB ply exclusively for fretwork art type panel backers. I use 5/32 in thk solid core project panels for the cut panels. I find even the best quality 1/8 in thk BB Ply is not nice looking enough lacking grain and color. Also it does tends to warp and will not lay flat.

I'd leave it.

Thank you, Marge. Some guys just look good in wood.

Marg between my son and myself we have about 25000 photo taken in the various game reserves here in South Africa, we watched all the game including the Big Five numerous times, witnessed kills by prides of lion, the most spectacular experience is seeing the Cheetah at full speed 70kmh, with his tail straight up in the air to act as a rudder, oh so many time so many memories, and the Rhino, and Elephants are been killed daily, so sad to see that, we at least have seen so many times it will never be forgotten.